1320stang
Well-known member
This thing is so cool and detailed, I forgot what the heck you were rebuilding, a BANDSAW!!! 
Rebuilding a Do-All V-36 band saw
- Thread starter A_Pmech
- Start date
Installing the Upper Idler Wheel
This evening I installed the upper idler wheel. Much like the third wheel, I began by installing the trunnion and trunnion pivot. Then, I coated the spindle with Loctite and installed it with it's setscrew. Should this assembly ever have to come apart again, I'll bake it before pressing it apart:
Then, the wheel goes on the spindle. I temporarily snugged the spindle nut and installed the tracking knob as the shims located between the wheel and spindle may change when I adjust the tracking.
Here it is, everything here is done, short of tracking it in:
Next up:
The drive motor.
This evening I installed the upper idler wheel. Much like the third wheel, I began by installing the trunnion and trunnion pivot. Then, I coated the spindle with Loctite and installed it with it's setscrew. Should this assembly ever have to come apart again, I'll bake it before pressing it apart:
Then, the wheel goes on the spindle. I temporarily snugged the spindle nut and installed the tracking knob as the shims located between the wheel and spindle may change when I adjust the tracking.
Here it is, everything here is done, short of tracking it in:
Next up:
The drive motor.
This thing is so cool and detailed, I forgot what the heck you were rebuilding, a BANDSAW!!!
Sometimes I forget too...
Although, it looks like a band saw again. It should have power shortly, assuming the motor doesn't need any major work.
The Motor
This afternoon I disassembled the motor and assessed it's condition. The result isn't good.
I began by removing the motor from it's mounting plate. Then, I removed the main drive pulleys, which are just a couple of stock Browning pulleys stacked up on the motor shaft:
You'll notice in these two photos that the motor has a lot of shaft endplay. Over 1/8", actually. I suspected a couple of broken wave washers:
I split the motor, curious to see the carnage:
Years of hammering due to severely worn belts have taken their toll. The thrust washers and shims are in pieces, as is the wave washer:
In places, the bearing is completely worn through. The oiling grooves are full of swarf:
The windings are in OK shape, considering a mouse had made a home in here at one point:
The front bearing thrust face is worn over .020":
Verdict:
This motor is shot. It needs a re-wind and conversion to ball bearings.
Cost to rebuild / rewind:
Magnet wire: $60
Insulation: $25
6005 bearings: $20
Propane to burn out motor: $2.50
Epoxy: $75
Misc materials: $20
Machining time: 6-8hours
Rewinding time: 2 days
$202.50 total
24 man-hours of labor
Versus a $142 new motor:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009110313082427&item=10-2393&catname=electric
I'll buy a new motor. As much as I'd like to save the old motor just for the fun of it, motors this size are a commodity item. In these sizes, it's orders of magnitude less expensive to buy a new motor than rewind an old one. So, this old Peerless has served her time. A new motor will soon be powering this old V-36.
This afternoon I disassembled the motor and assessed it's condition. The result isn't good.
I began by removing the motor from it's mounting plate. Then, I removed the main drive pulleys, which are just a couple of stock Browning pulleys stacked up on the motor shaft:
You'll notice in these two photos that the motor has a lot of shaft endplay. Over 1/8", actually. I suspected a couple of broken wave washers:
I split the motor, curious to see the carnage:
Years of hammering due to severely worn belts have taken their toll. The thrust washers and shims are in pieces, as is the wave washer:
In places, the bearing is completely worn through. The oiling grooves are full of swarf:
The windings are in OK shape, considering a mouse had made a home in here at one point:
The front bearing thrust face is worn over .020":
Verdict:
This motor is shot. It needs a re-wind and conversion to ball bearings.
Cost to rebuild / rewind:
Magnet wire: $60
Insulation: $25
6005 bearings: $20
Propane to burn out motor: $2.50
Epoxy: $75
Misc materials: $20
Machining time: 6-8hours
Rewinding time: 2 days
$202.50 total
24 man-hours of labor
Versus a $142 new motor:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009110313082427&item=10-2393&catname=electric
I'll buy a new motor. As much as I'd like to save the old motor just for the fun of it, motors this size are a commodity item. In these sizes, it's orders of magnitude less expensive to buy a new motor than rewind an old one. So, this old Peerless has served her time. A new motor will soon be powering this old V-36.
Aligning the Machine, Part 1
I called Do-All today to update a parts order. While I was on the phone, I asked about how they align a 3-wheel saw. When I explained that I had taken the saw completely apart, including disassembling all the adjustment mechanisms, I got a long pause on the other end of the phone followed by "Oh...."
Apparently, Do-All does not have a field alignment procedure for their machines. All alignment is done in-house at the time of manufacture using "special fixtures" and once in the field one must "just hope that you don't take everything apart".
However, I learned several key pieces of information. The most important fact is that the datum plane for the machine is the trunnion main plate.
I was also able to determine the order of critical adjustments:
1) Establish the guidepost location and perpendicularity to the main plate.
2) Square the guidepost to the Y-axis of the machine.
3) Shim the upper wheel crown distance from the guidepost to establish the blade roller preload.
4) Bring the drive wheel into plane with the upper wheel.
5) Bring the third wheel into the plane occupied by the upper and lower wheels.
6) Install the trunnion and tables. Bring the auxiliary table into a plane parallel with the datum plane and secure.
With these critical adjustments, the machine's wheels are all brought into the same plane relative to the guidepost and upper wheel trunnion slider, who's relationship is fixed to the datum plane.
Do-All does this with jigs, alignment pins, and feeler gauges. They declined to provide me with photos of the alignment jigs, not that I'm going to spend weeks to make them in the first place!
Instead, I have a plan. It involves a master level, a custom plumb bob, and a trip to the music store. Unfortunately, I'll have to remove the main table and trunnion to access the datum plane. However, this method will also be very accurate, at least as accurate than Do-All's jig and likely better.
I'll update as I bring the tools together.
I called Do-All today to update a parts order. While I was on the phone, I asked about how they align a 3-wheel saw. When I explained that I had taken the saw completely apart, including disassembling all the adjustment mechanisms, I got a long pause on the other end of the phone followed by "Oh...."
Apparently, Do-All does not have a field alignment procedure for their machines. All alignment is done in-house at the time of manufacture using "special fixtures" and once in the field one must "just hope that you don't take everything apart".
However, I learned several key pieces of information. The most important fact is that the datum plane for the machine is the trunnion main plate.
I was also able to determine the order of critical adjustments:
1) Establish the guidepost location and perpendicularity to the main plate.
2) Square the guidepost to the Y-axis of the machine.
3) Shim the upper wheel crown distance from the guidepost to establish the blade roller preload.
4) Bring the drive wheel into plane with the upper wheel.
5) Bring the third wheel into the plane occupied by the upper and lower wheels.
6) Install the trunnion and tables. Bring the auxiliary table into a plane parallel with the datum plane and secure.
With these critical adjustments, the machine's wheels are all brought into the same plane relative to the guidepost and upper wheel trunnion slider, who's relationship is fixed to the datum plane.
Do-All does this with jigs, alignment pins, and feeler gauges. They declined to provide me with photos of the alignment jigs, not that I'm going to spend weeks to make them in the first place!
Instead, I have a plan. It involves a master level, a custom plumb bob, and a trip to the music store. Unfortunately, I'll have to remove the main table and trunnion to access the datum plane. However, this method will also be very accurate, at least as accurate than Do-All's jig and likely better.
I'll update as I bring the tools together.
rhastings80
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2009
- Messages
- 636
The Motor
This afternoon I disassembled the motor and assessed it's condition. The result isn't good.
I began by removing the motor from it's mounting plate. Then, I removed the main drive pulleys, which are just a couple of stock Browning pulleys stacked up on the motor shaft:
You'll notice in these two photos that the motor has a lot of shaft endplay. Over 1/8", actually. I suspected a couple of broken wave washers:
I split the motor, curious to see the carnage:
Years of hammering due to severely worn belts have taken their toll. The thrust washers and shims are in pieces, as is the wave washer:
In places, the bearing is completely worn through. The oiling grooves are full of swarf:
The windings are in OK shape, considering a mouse had made a home in here at one point:
The front bearing thrust face is worn over .020":
Verdict:
This motor is shot. It needs a re-wind and conversion to ball bearings.
Cost to rebuild / rewind:
Magnet wire: $60
Insulation: $25
6005 bearings: $20
Propane to burn out motor: $2.50
Epoxy: $75
Misc materials: $20
Machining time: 6-8hours
Rewinding time: 2 days
$202.50 total
24 man-hours of labor
Versus a $142 new motor:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009110313082427&item=10-2393&catname=electric
I'll buy a new motor. As much as I'd like to save the old motor just for the fun of it, motors this size are a commodity item. In these sizes, it's orders of magnitude less expensive to buy a new motor than rewind an old one. So, this old Peerless has served her time. A new motor will soon be powering this old V-36.
You have 3- phase power coming in your house? If so cool!
Rhastings,
No, I don't have 3-phase service here.
Instead, I generate three-phase power from my single-phase supply using a rotary phase converter I built. It can be seen in numerous rebuild photos, to the right of the garage door, next to the power panels.
The reassuring thing is you enter this with intimate knowledge of every part in your machine, and also realizing that before Do-All had its jigs and alignment tools, some machinist there had to figure it all out-- then design the jigs for production.
Let me guess: You plan to tension the blade by tone of the plucked blade?
Calculator to adjust bandsaw blade tension by tone...
FWIW:
Tension for carbon steel blades: 15,000 psi.
Tension for bimetal and carbide tipped blades: 25,000 psi.
the spyder
Well-known member
I had to dig up my account after my brother linked me to your thread. Excellent work. Me and my brother are in our mid 20's and its great to see someone with the same drive/skills.
We do exist
.
We just rebuilt our Champion R15 and are working on a Jet 7x12 bandsaw rebuild.
Keep up with the good work!
We do exist
. We just rebuilt our Champion R15 and are working on a Jet 7x12 bandsaw rebuild.
Keep up with the good work!
Hi Ken,
It didn't take me long to work out the available degrees of freedom from memory of taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together, yeah. Once I'd determined the degrees of freedom, I asked a couple of pointed questions on their manufacturing method. That's how I determined the guidepost relationship was fixed parallel to the trunnion sliders. Once I was told that the third wheel position is dependent on a plane established by the upper and lower wheels I knew all the critical adjustments. The order of alignment just became a jigsaw puzzle.
I'm a bandsaw plucker, but not to the degree of accuracy that your link appears capable of, I'll be experimenting with his calculator. Thanks for the link!. Looking at his numbers, I probably over-tension blades, as a general rule. However, I've never had one fail.
The trip to the music store will be to purchase some .016" music wire. After using a master precision level to bring the reference plane level, I'll clamp a holder to the guidepost with a short section of music wire attached. At the other end of the wire will be a weight immersed in oil. This "plumb bob" will provide me with a reference to vertical that is precisely perpendicular to the reference plane.
I'll then inject a very low voltage "click" into the perfectly clean wire. Using a home-made wire micrometer, which is just a depth micrometer and an insulating bushing, I can locate the wire in space using an oscilloscope or an audio amplifier and headphones. When the micrometer makes electrical contact with the wire, the click, or tone, will jump in amplitude.
The vertical wire will allow me to set the guidepost perpendicular to the reference plane and later establish a reference line for the plane of the upper and lower band wheels.
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I had to dig up my account after my brother linked me to your thread. Excellent work. Me and my brother are in our mid 20's and its great to see someone with the same drive/skills.
We do exist
We just rebuilt our Champion R15 and are working on a Jet 7x12 bandsaw rebuild.
Keep up with the good work!
Welcome back and thank you.
You'll have to post up some of your work!
mjozefow
Well-known member
I thought you could hold five decimals with a tape measure!
This sounds like a very accurate method, quite an interesting approach too.
bgott
Well-known member
I guess using a straight edge would be too boring, eh?
I thought you could hold five decimals with a tape measure!
This sounds like a very accurate method, quite an interesting approach too.
I can, but at what temperature is uncertain...
It should be fairly accurate, yes. I'm curious to see how close Do-All located and pinned the X-axis of the guidepost perpendicular to the main plate.
I guess using a straight edge would be too boring, eh?
*snore*
Unfortunately, a straightedge won't help me much with bringing the guidepost into plumb and there isn't enough surface area on the baseplate to use an 18" master square.
The plumb reference will be more accurate than the master precision level reference, as gravity is fairly dependable. The limitation to the plumb reference is actually measuring it's location in space without displacing it, and keeping drafts down while it's in use. Measuring the wire's location accurately is a fine trick prone to lots of "personal error". We'll see how well I do...
To say the least!
And a little conundrum:
Could gravity be faster than the speed of light?
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To say the least!
And a little conundrum:
Could gravity be faster than the speed of light?
Luckily, I don't have to worry about that for these measurements.
bluesman2a
Well-known member
funny you should mention this, I just tore down my upper wheel-housing last night and was looking at some of your reference pics.
I think I'm going to lose the original motor too. TSC has a replacement that looks pretty good that I picked up from Gray Walker's page. I think I'm going to go with that and just run it on 220V 1P.
I think I'm going to lose the original motor too. TSC has a replacement that looks pretty good that I picked up from Gray Walker's page. I think I'm going to go with that and just run it on 220V 1P.
Does your upper trunnion look more like mine, or more like Grey Rider's? They changed designs several times. By the time you're ready to get it back together I should have an alignment procedure documented.
Sounds good. 3-phase is easier for me, so I'm going to replace with a 3-phase motor, probably 1.5HP or 2 HP if the starter is rated for it. The local motor shops are always though the roof, so I'll probably order that Worldwide Electric motor from Surplus Center, if I don't find anything American-made.
bluesman2a
Well-known member
Does your upper trunnion look more like mine, or more like Grey Rider's? They changed designs several times. By the time you're ready to get it back together I should have an alignment procedure documented.
It looks more like his, but not sure that it's a direct match... I'm HOPING that I and just put it all back together exactly like I took it apart and have it be at least close. I'm not sure I have the patience to go through everything you are for alignment.
I made extra sure to note where the shims were located and bag/tag where everything came from.This is mine:
babzog
Well-known member
You lost me after music wire. I cannot picture at all what you're trying to do but it sounds complicated... which in my experience, usually means highly accurate. Please take lots of photos for the benefit of dumb schmucks such as myself.
Bluesman,
Ahah, you have an iteration of the "early style".
Mine has threaded adjusters instead of shims, which is what makes this fun.
As long as you clean the surfaces religiously and put everything back like it came apart, you should maintain alignment. Grey Rider covers removal of that style pretty well, as I recall. I would expect to find a few pins between the main frame and the trunnion frame.
Yours looks cleaner up there, but with more cobwebs!
When you clean everything up and put it back together, I recommend wheel bearing grease for the tension jack screw thrust bearing and DuPont "Multi-Purpose" Teflon dry lubricant for the sliders and jack screw itself. The Teflon lube should keep **** from accumulating on the slider and screw and jamming up the works.
Ahah, you have an iteration of the "early style".
Mine has threaded adjusters instead of shims, which is what makes this fun.
As long as you clean the surfaces religiously and put everything back like it came apart, you should maintain alignment. Grey Rider covers removal of that style pretty well, as I recall. I would expect to find a few pins between the main frame and the trunnion frame.
Yours looks cleaner up there, but with more cobwebs!
When you clean everything up and put it back together, I recommend wheel bearing grease for the tension jack screw thrust bearing and DuPont "Multi-Purpose" Teflon dry lubricant for the sliders and jack screw itself. The Teflon lube should keep **** from accumulating on the slider and screw and jamming up the works.
You lost me after music wire. I cannot picture at all what you're trying to do but it sounds complicated... which in my experience, usually means highly accurate. Please take lots of photos for the benefit of dumb schmucks such as myself.
I'll be sure to take plenty of photos.
t. jones
Well-known member
A Pmech thankyou for posting gave me the courage to buy some quality used equip.
Thanx Trevor
Thanx Trevor
Glad to hear the thread is useful to you, Trevor. There's lots of good machinery out there, the trick is finding it. Once you have a shop together, repairing and rebuilding your machinery is just a matter of using your other machines.
Should you have any problems or would like advice on what to look for, post up. I'm sure we can help.
the spyder
Well-known member
Quick question- what type of paint stripper did you use?
With few exceptions, the entire machine was sandblasted.
However, I can recommend "Aircraft Remover" made by Klean Strip. It is sold in most Auto-Zone stores. Apply it with cheap natural hair "chip brushes", which are generally the cheapest of the cheap paint brushes you can buy at the hardware store. Synthetic brushes will "melt" in minutes.
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
this thread is truly inspiring
udamanjohn!!
udamanjohn!!
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bluesman2a
Well-known member
OK, I had to strip most of the body of my saw. The small parts have been blasted, and I used a pressure-washer driven blaster that was OK for one of the larger sheet metal parts. I really was NOT looking forward to use a wire brush on a grinder for this. So off to Vato-zone.
Let me say this is the first time I've used this stuff and it AWESOME. As best I can figure, my saw had about 7 layers of paint on it. Not bad for 60 YEARS, but THICK. I had to apply a couple of coats and scrape in between, but this stuff WORKS. One item they suggest using a PLASTIC scraper, I say BS, get a sharp, stiff, metal scraper. Also I wanted a bit better finish when I was done, so I hit it with a surface prep roloc and it polished up nicely.
Thanks for the recommendation A_PMech.
wineslob
Well-known member
A P Mech, don't throw out the old motor, that thing is pre '64 NEMA, much better than "new". Essentially it's built like the proverbial sh*thouse.
You can (NO KIDDING) mod the end bells for modern bearings.
You can (NO KIDDING
) mod the end bells for modern bearings.I like your method of perpendicularity. Quick question, though: How do you keep the music wire hanging perfectly straight? I would think that any weight on the bottom would have to be perfectly in line with the center of mass of the wire or else it would pull it off to an odd angle.
Also, how fine of a resolution do you have as the depth gauge approaches the wire? I think that another neat way to check for distance between the gauge and the wire would be some sort of very precise LCR meter to measure the capacitance between the wire and gauge. Given clean oil I think it may be capable of detecting a much smaller distance, so that you can more sure you are "just touching" it. If you want to be that nitpicky for anything else, that is.
Also, how fine of a resolution do you have as the depth gauge approaches the wire? I think that another neat way to check for distance between the gauge and the wire would be some sort of very precise LCR meter to measure the capacitance between the wire and gauge. Given clean oil I think it may be capable of detecting a much smaller distance, so that you can more sure you are "just touching" it. If you want to be that nitpicky for anything else, that is.
mjozefow
Well-known member
Shouldn't matter. The weight may hang at an angle but even if hung from one corner, the wire would hang down perfectly straight and plumb. The real issue would be the weight swinging, hence the oil.
I await with great anticipation A_Pmech!
I had to apply a couple of coats and scrape in between, but this stuff WORKS. One item they suggest using a PLASTIC scraper, I say BS, get a sharp, stiff, metal scraper. Also I wanted a bit better finish when I was done, so I hit it with a surface prep roloc and it polished up nicely.
Thanks for the recommendation A_PMech.
No problem, Bluesman.
The plastic scraper mainly applies to aluminum aircraft structures, although I prefer phenolic or aluminum for scraping airplane paint. I agree, on steel use a steel scraper.
wineslob said:
I'd love to save it and there's plenty of meat in the end bells to bore them for ball bearings. However, the windings are shot. Small motors are such a commodity item, I'm going to replace it with something of the same weight. It would be fun to re-wind it, but that just isn't in the cards. I can buy at least two motors for the cost of materials and my labor.
Commodore said:
Hi Commodore,
The weight on the end of the wire will, by virtue of it's unbalanced gravitational moments, "automatically" align it's CG with the center line of the taught plumb wire to null it's moments and come to equilibrium. The wire can be considered "infinitely flexible" and thus uncoupled from the imbalanced moments around the X and Y axes of the weight. Only torque around the Z axis of the weight remains coupled to the wire in single-point suspension. Thus, the geometry of the weight and the method of single-point attachment have no effect on the final equilibrium location of the wire in space.
If the wire were not "infinitely flexible", such as a piece of bar stock, and the method of attachment was rigid, the torque moments of the weight would couple into those of the bar stock. This coupling would altering the combined CG location and thus the level of "plumbness" of the bar stock.
In machine alignment, the wire is commonly tensioned to 150,000 PSI, roughly equivalent 11.75 lbs of weight on this .010" wire. This level of stress is sufficient to pull the wire straight against it's internal stresses.
Commodore said:
At 3VDC, repeatability of locating the wire exceeds the resolution of my depth micrometer by an order of magnitude. So long as the wire is kept clean, taught, and on-station, the vertical reference will be more accurate than my ability to level the mainplate of the machine.
Additional, unnecessary resolution would just result in tail-chasing and hair-pulling.
Mjozefow said:
New update as soon as I can get my hands on a few more things.
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Public Service Announcement: Rigging a Do-All Saw
I have often wondered just how people managed to break the trunnions on Do-All saws. Word is the majority are broken when lifting the machine by the table. However, it is obvious to anyone looking at a Do-All of any size that the balance point is nowhere near the table. I was left to scratch my head until this evening, when I came across these two photos, which make my hair stand on end:
These photos were taken very recently, when a member on another forum bought and picked up a very nice looking mid 60's Do-All 3613-2. Unfortunately, the previous owner knew nothing about how to properly rig the machine onto his trailer. Luckily, it appears to have gone off without incident. However, that is not always the case.
For those not already aware, the entire 1,250 lb weight (older saws are MUCH heavier) of the machine is being supported by the table trunnion in those photos. The table trunnion is one of the weakest cast iron parts on the saw due to numerous stress risers and small cross sections. It is well known for breaking when treated roughly and lifting the machine by the trunnion certainly falls under rough treatment. The trunnion is made up of several parts, most of which are no longer available from Do-All. So, if the trunnion is broken too badly to be repaired, the saw is scrap metal.
Here's an example of an unbroken trunnion:
Here's one of the many broken trunnions out there, repaired by welding:
So, what is the proper way to rig one of these machines? There are several ways. On the earlier machines, the best way is to lift it from beneath, as I've done here:
For newer saws such as the one being rigged by the table, Do-All has provided a convenient 3/4-10 tapped hole above the balance point into which a forged eye bolt can be threaded for suspending the saw from overhead.
Conclusion:
When rigging machine tools it is best to avoid lifting from appendages or precision surfaces, as it is akin to lifting a man by his eyelids. The manufacturers of machine tools must move their product many times as it is being built. Rest assured, they have developed a method that is not only safe for the people involved, but safe for the machine as well.
Follow the Manufacturer's Instructions!
P.S: I have joined at the forum where these photos were posted and I'm going to post the link to this thread, in the interest of spreading the word. Hopefully I can get registered on the forum before he tempts fate a second time unloading it!
I have often wondered just how people managed to break the trunnions on Do-All saws. Word is the majority are broken when lifting the machine by the table. However, it is obvious to anyone looking at a Do-All of any size that the balance point is nowhere near the table. I was left to scratch my head until this evening, when I came across these two photos, which make my hair stand on end:
These photos were taken very recently, when a member on another forum bought and picked up a very nice looking mid 60's Do-All 3613-2. Unfortunately, the previous owner knew nothing about how to properly rig the machine onto his trailer. Luckily, it appears to have gone off without incident. However, that is not always the case.
For those not already aware, the entire 1,250 lb weight (older saws are MUCH heavier) of the machine is being supported by the table trunnion in those photos. The table trunnion is one of the weakest cast iron parts on the saw due to numerous stress risers and small cross sections. It is well known for breaking when treated roughly and lifting the machine by the trunnion certainly falls under rough treatment. The trunnion is made up of several parts, most of which are no longer available from Do-All. So, if the trunnion is broken too badly to be repaired, the saw is scrap metal.
Here's an example of an unbroken trunnion:
Here's one of the many broken trunnions out there, repaired by welding:
So, what is the proper way to rig one of these machines? There are several ways. On the earlier machines, the best way is to lift it from beneath, as I've done here:
For newer saws such as the one being rigged by the table, Do-All has provided a convenient 3/4-10 tapped hole above the balance point into which a forged eye bolt can be threaded for suspending the saw from overhead.
Conclusion:
When rigging machine tools it is best to avoid lifting from appendages or precision surfaces, as it is akin to lifting a man by his eyelids. The manufacturers of machine tools must move their product many times as it is being built. Rest assured, they have developed a method that is not only safe for the people involved, but safe for the machine as well.
Follow the Manufacturer's Instructions!
P.S: I have joined at the forum where these photos were posted and I'm going to post the link to this thread, in the interest of spreading the word. Hopefully I can get registered on the forum before he tempts fate a second time unloading it!
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wineslob
Well-known member
Darn thats too bad. You could probably replace it with a severe duty, and be in the ballpark.
Snip
Oh, yeah, that makes perfect sense. Things are always a lot more rigid in my head. Explains how I keep up with all those supermodels up there.
1320stang
Well-known member
Seems to me that DoAll should have just provided the forged eyebolt already installed. The darn thing is so tall, no one would see the hole much less think to look for one.
allessence
Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2009
- Messages
- 18
Exceptional rebuild. I am the new owner of a 3613-2 from the other forum. And this thread is really awesome.
Luckily I had read about the eye bolt before hand. And luckily the saw is intact. No damage done after the loading.
Anyhow, just wanted to let you know. You are doing a great job. Really nice to see someone else who cares about older machines. If only they could talk!!!
Luckily I had read about the eye bolt before hand. And luckily the saw is intact. No damage done after the loading.
Anyhow, just wanted to let you know. You are doing a great job. Really nice to see someone else who cares about older machines. If only they could talk!!!
Allessence,
Good to see you here!
Thank you. I agree, the older machines have a "look" about them, and a feel of quality that is hard to describe.
My machine was originally purchased by the government and likely spent quite a while in the military. There was a AAFES (Army and Air Force Exchange Service) wrapper in the base. I'm sure it has some stories to be told.
I'm looking forward to seeing your machine under power and I'm glad to hear it's undamaged. As we discussed in the other thread, sometimes you just have to let the owner rig a machine the way they want to do it.
Thanks. I haven't. Maybe, when I'm organized, I'll do that.
That's the idea. I'd like to find a NOS Reliance XT series motor. Failing that, Surplus Center had a good deal on WEG severe duty motors. While not the greatest, I have similar motors which run well. I suspect they don't have the same lifespan as a Reliance, however.
Once you see it, I'm sure it will make perfect sense. I find it difficult sometimes to visualize what someone is talking about, unless I've already done it!
I think it boils down to the fact that when these machines were built they were very expensive and designed specifically for industry. When GE buys a new machine, they hire an insured rigger to install it in their facility.
A rigger is a person or company who does rigging, the moving and lifting of heavy things. Machinery is designed to be easy for a rigger to move with the equipment he's likely to have. An eye bolt is something a rigger will always have an abundance of, so it's not necessary to supply one.
That's my guess, anyway!
Good to see you here!
Thank you. I agree, the older machines have a "look" about them, and a feel of quality that is hard to describe.
My machine was originally purchased by the government and likely spent quite a while in the military. There was a AAFES (Army and Air Force Exchange Service) wrapper in the base. I'm sure it has some stories to be told.
I'm looking forward to seeing your machine under power and I'm glad to hear it's undamaged. As we discussed in the other thread, sometimes you just have to let the owner rig a machine the way they want to do it.
Jokeman said:
Thanks. I haven't. Maybe, when I'm organized, I'll do that.
Wineslob said:
That's the idea. I'd like to find a NOS Reliance XT series motor. Failing that, Surplus Center had a good deal on WEG severe duty motors. While not the greatest, I have similar motors which run well. I suspect they don't have the same lifespan as a Reliance, however.
Commodore said:
Once you see it, I'm sure it will make perfect sense. I find it difficult sometimes to visualize what someone is talking about, unless I've already done it!
1320Stang said:
I think it boils down to the fact that when these machines were built they were very expensive and designed specifically for industry. When GE buys a new machine, they hire an insured rigger to install it in their facility.
A rigger is a person or company who does rigging, the moving and lifting of heavy things. Machinery is designed to be easy for a rigger to move with the equipment he's likely to have. An eye bolt is something a rigger will always have an abundance of, so it's not necessary to supply one.
That's my guess, anyway!