Lets see your paint or powder coat curing ovens

[cajunfirehawk]

Was reading something on GJ recently and someone’s post caught my attention; it was discussing the fact that someone had found some electric smokers on clearance and picked up one to use in their shop to cure/bake freshly painted items. Well I thought that was a great idea so I wondered what everyone else was using, so let’s see your paint or powder coat curing ovens.
Here is my recent find, assume I would want to permanently close any smoke holes/vents?

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[Jazzman442]

I am very interested in this. Subscribed..

 

[cgrutt]

Built this one a while back. I was going to use it for a mountain bike frame I wanted to cerakote (sp?). Still haven't used it other than testing.

It works too!

 

[cajunfirehawk]

Built this one a while back. I was going to use it for a mountain bike frame I wanted to cerakote (sp?). Still haven't used it other than testing
It works too!

Awesome build , gas or elec?

 

[cgrutt]

Thanks. It just has a couple of cheap electric hot plates (from Walmart) on the bottom shelf vented into the top part. Pretty easy build. I used metal studs and fiberglass batt on inside, cement board on inside and some scrap plywood on outside.

 

[cajunfirehawk]

Thanks. It just has a couple of cheap electric hot plates (from Walmart) on the bottom shelf vented into the top part. Pretty easy build. I used metal studs and fiberglass batt on inside, cement board on inside and some scrap plywood on outside.

Assume the copper pipe used to protect the wires from the heat?

 

[cgrutt]

Nah just conduit from controller to back of box. Had the copper lying around so used it. Outside of box doesn't even get warm aside from right above doors from leakage.

 

[southalabama]

I've got a buddy making a living cerakoting custom yeti and other cups. He uses electric smokers with the digital readout. He has several.

 

[cajunfirehawk]

I've got a buddy making a living cerakoting custom yeti and other cups. He uses electric smokers with the digital readout. He has several.

I have to think this will wind down, my local wallymart is now flooded with cups in every color, they seem to be everywhere now.

 

[2oolhound]

I'm not sure where I found this link, maybe here a few years ago but it's pretty good I thought:

http://powdercoatoven.4t.com

 

[thofdahl]

Here's mine. Roughly 6x4x4 interior dimensions.




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[ovrrdrive]

I'm using a toaster oven until I get around to upgrading. I just wanted something to start with until I got around to something better.

Great idea on the smoker. Are you planning on adding a bigger element to it?

I noticed most only get up to 275 degrees or so which isn't enough. It could still be a cheaper route with a few simple mods.

 

[torqueman2002]

Nah just conduit from controller to back of box. Had the copper lying around so used it. Outside of box doesn't even get warm aside from right above doors from leakage.

Can you tell us more about the controller?

Source, how it's configured and meched out?

Thanks.

Subscribed.

 

[thursday]

Here's mine. Roughly 6x4x4 interior dimensions.




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nice. did you buy it, or build it? How many kW? How long does take to reach 400 F?

 

[cgrutt]

Can you tell us more about the controller?

Source, how it's configured and meched out?

Thanks.

Subscribed.

Sure it's just a programmable digital temperature controller (they're called PIDs) that I bought off ebay. They're cheap. I went with one that only measured in Celsius because it was even cheaper, but they are available in Fahrenheit if you want it. Very common in Home Brew market. You need the controller, a heat sink, solid state relay (SSR) and a temperature probe (K-type, IIRC) calibrated to the heat range you want the oven to operate at. Everything with shipping should be about $50. It works pretty much like a standard thermostat but you need to program the controller for how you have it set up and want it to run (it's easy). You may also need to program an error value for your temp probe if it doesn't measure right temp, e.g., temp prob reads 220 degrees when it is actually 250, you need to program +30 degrees as an error value to make it work correctly. Set temperature you want the oven to be at and it supplies power until it reaches the temp and then cuts off power while its at temp. One of the readouts is the set temp and the other is the actual temp. You need to program the controller, which is capable of doing a lot of different things e.g., keep power on after x degrees past set point, etc. so you have a lot of flexibility. Lots of info on youtube. I just put the temp probe in back of oven and mounted everything else in a junction box at top. Make sure you get one that operates on 120v AC as they come in a lot of different configurations (DC, 220V AC, etc.).

This is basic wiring diagram but pin numbers etc. may vary depending on what unit you get.

 

[torqueman2002]

cgrutt - Thank you!

 

[6PTsocket]

Built this one a while back. I was going to use it for a mountain bike frame I wanted to cerakote (sp?). Still haven't used it other than testing.

It works too!

You are showing 250 degrees. Don't you need like 400 to powdercoat. How hot will that rig get? I have often thought of trying it but the oven was the issue. Building something inexpensive, like yours really looks good.

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[cgrutt]

You are showing 250 degrees. Don't you need like 400 to powdercoat. How hot will that rig get? I have often thought of trying it but the oven was the issue. Building something inexpensive, like yours really looks good.

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Cerakote only requires 2 hours at 250. I'm not sure if my unit will get to 400 without modding the heating elements. They are just hot plates from Walmart and have built in temp overload. They started kicking on and off but it got to 250 after about 1/2 hour. I'm sure unit would support 400 but not sure if the current set up would get there.

 

[peterhall]

I bought an electric oven off craigslist for $100. They broke the glass top but the oven works great. It has no problems getting up to temp quickly. Only thing is it's a bit small.

 

[6PTsocket]

Cerakote only requires 2 hours at 250. I'm not sure if my unit will get to 400 without modding the heating elements. They are just hot plates from Walmart and have built in temp overload. They started kicking on and off but it got to 250 after about 1/2 hour. I'm sure unit would support 400 but not sure if the current set up would get there.

Thanks. I didn't know there was low temp powder coat. Or is that just the common stuff (eg Eastwood) going longer and slower?

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[cgrutt]

It's not powder coat. It's Ceramic/paint based coating mainly used on firearms.

https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/

 

[6PTsocket]

It's not powder coat. It's Ceramic/paint based coating mainly used on firearms.

https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/

So I see. I just looked it up. The article title threw me off.It started with powder coat ovens and went to curing ceracote, a firearms product, that requires a lot less heat.

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[david3921]

Was reading something on GJ recently and someone’s post caught my attention; it was discussing the fact that someone had found some electric smokers on clearance and picked up one to use in their shop to cure/bake freshly painted items. Well I thought that was a great idea so I wondered what everyone else was using, so let’s see your paint or powder coat curing ovens.
Here is my recent find, assume I would want to permanently close any smoke holes/vents?

​

I bought the model pictured to use for curing powder coat. It was on sale at TSC at the time but what sealed the deal was that it goes up to 400 degrees. It does but the surrounding surfaces get that hot also. I used water heater insulation to keep in the heat. The door, top, back, and sides are all double walled and attached to each other with pop rivets. I drilled out the rivets, pulled everything apart, cut and installed the insulation, and riveted everything back together. I put the shiny side of the insulation away from the heat source just like with a water heater. I left the bottom alone. There is a hole there and in the upper back. The back hole is (if I remember right) a kind of through tube with a nut on both sides. I left the holes in there to provide ventilation as powder coating is a plastic and thus has fumes when curing. I drilled a hole in the center of the top and installed a hook for hanging parts. There are guides pop riveted on both inner sides for the smoker racks. I ended up moving those up so that I could hang multiple long parts off of a rack rather than one at a time on the hook.

I've had this for about a year and it works great. It goes up to heat fast and most times I don't have to turn it up all the way. It tends to work a little harder in the winter months but that's to be expected. The only thing I have to watch out for is the nut holding the hook gets hot and to be sure the temperature probe in the door doesn't hit a part when closing it.

 

[cajunfirehawk]

I bought the model pictured to use for curing powder coat. It was on sale at TSC at the time but what sealed the deal was that it goes up to 400 degrees. It does but the surrounding surfaces get that hot also. I used water heater insulation to keep in the heat. The door, top, back, and sides are all double walled and attached to each other with pop rivets. I drilled out the rivets, pulled everything apart, cut and installed the insulation, and riveted everything back together. I put the shiny side of the insulation away from the heat source just like with a water heater. I left the bottom alone. There is a hole there and in the upper back. The back hole is (if I remember right) a kind of through tube with a nut on both sides. I left the holes in there to provide ventilation as powder coating is a plastic and thus has fumes when curing. I drilled a hole in the center of the top and installed a hook for hanging parts. There are guides pop riveted on both inner sides for the smoker racks. I ended up moving those up so that I could hang multiple long parts off of a rack rather than one at a time on the hook.

I've had this for about a year and it works great. It goes up to heat fast and most times I don't have to turn it up all the way. It tends to work a little harder in the winter months but that's to be expected. The only thing I have to watch out for is the nut holding the hook gets hot and to be sure the temperature probe in the door doesn't hit a part when closing it.

I don't powder coat in mine (yet...lol) but I did close those two vent holes with some high temp silicone and that works great for what I do with it, please post some pics of yours, thanks!

 

[2oolhound]

I bought an electric oven off craigslist for $100. They broke the glass top but the oven works great. It has no problems getting up to temp quickly. Only thing is it's a bit small.

That's a no brainer!

I don't know why I didn't think of it….

 

[happymachinist]

This is my big oven inside usable space is about 76" tall 36" wide 44" deep. I built it about 6 years ago.

The little oven to it's right has been replaced with a slightly newer oven from the 80s controlled that I rewired to use a PID and contact. I can get pictures of it later if needed.

 

[CudaChick1968]

This is my big oven, finished in August of 2009.



It's 7 feet tall, 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep. Even though it took my friend and me a few months to construct, it was the best time investment I've ever made in my business. I have the same SSR / PID setup that cgrutt has {sweet description and diagram by the way! } along with four elements. The only issue I've had is that the electrical connectors to the elements burn up after awhile and need to be replaced. If I had to build it again today, I'd have rolled up some extra wire in there.

 

[6PTsocket]

This is my big oven, finished in August of 2009.



It's 7 feet tall, 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep. Even though it took my friend and me a few months to construct, it was the best time investment I've ever made in my business. I have the same SSR / PID setup that cgrutt has {sweet description and diagram by the way! } along with four elements. The only issue I've had is that the electrical connectors to the elements burn up after awhile and need to be replaced. If I had to build it again today, I'd have rolled up some extra wire in there.

All terminals are not created equal even if they look similar. There are hi temp terminals for what you have.

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[cajunfirehawk]

All terminals are not created equal even if they look similar. There are hi temp terminals for what you have.

Very true but I even have factory installed hi temp terminals that have eroded over time due to heat, seems a better connection would be just to solder those connections?

 

[CudaChick1968]

All terminals are not created equal even if they look similar. There are hi temp terminals for what you have.

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The ones I bought were supposedly high temp but don't last as long as I expected.

I do have a somewhat related question here but it's about the elements.

On my big homemade oven, I used broiler elements. On the small household oven (a $25 Craig's List score at least a decade ago), some **** oozed out of a part I was outgassing and it dripped onto the base-mounted element causing it to short out. In replacing it, I realized it was the first time I'd ever done so since acquiring the oven compared to replacing several broiler elements on my big oven in that same time frame.

Keeping in mind I was mainly the grunt laborer while my friend Richard researched and designed the big one, what advantages / disadvantages are there to each type??

I figure if I have to keep replacing these things in the big oven, maybe I should be using regular oven elements in it instead of the broiler type elements. Anybody have any thoughts on this?? Thanks in advance gentlemen!!

 

[6PTsocket]

The ones I bought were supposedly high temp but don't last as long as I expected.

I do have a somewhat related question here but it's about the elements.

On my big homemade oven, I used broiler elements. On the small household oven (a $25 Craig's List score at least a decade ago), some **** oozed out of a part I was outgassing and it dripped onto the base-mounted element causing it to short out. In replacing it, I realized it was the first time I'd ever done so since acquiring the oven compared to replacing several broiler elements on my big oven in that same time frame.

Keeping in mind I was mainly the grunt laborer while my friend Richard researched and designed the big one, what advantages / disadvantages are there to each type??

I figure if I have to keep replacing these things in the big oven, maybe I should be using regular oven elements in it instead of the broiler type elements. Anybody have any thoughts on this?? Thanks in advance gentlemen!!

Sorry your hi temp terminals didn't stand up. Hopefully there is something better out there.


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