Damn concrete is expensive :(

[padroo]

Good chance all labor is Union.

 

[Keel]

Good chance all labor is Union.

Doubt it, most likely, not..
Most likely all the reg's and business regs cost up there..

 

[sierradmax]

If you plan on framing walls, you can do concrete. I built my own forms and poured my own walls. I did not pour the floor

Tree cutting cost: $1,000
Excavation: $ 800
Plywood for footing $ 250
16' chute $300
Concrete for footing $1,100
Wood for forms $1,000
Concrete for foundation $2,300
Wire mesh, pins, etc. $400
Concrete for slab $2,000
Labor for slab $1,000

Total cost before framing walls was about $10,000 and I did most of the work myself. A licensed, insured contractor I figured would have been 1.5 to 2 times the cost.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259512

 

[toolchaser]

I agree with other posters, 4K & 6" is excessive. I had a slab done last fall, 3K & 4" @ $4 per sq. Ft. However, location does affect cost tremendously.

 

[Smoker]

Again I live in a different state so this may not be that relevant ... but I had a 30x30 pad with an 18" thickened edge, rebar everywhere and 3x3 6" thick sections (for a lift) all done, including power trowel and machine cut control joints for $7300. That included a $700 pumper truck to pump over an existing garage. They got it flat within 1/4" across the 30'. Two story building framed 2x6 with attic trusses. My city was fine with a thickened edge slab, your city code may be different and require an actual footing.

 

[foogotz]

I am in the same area as OP. We do require an actual footing and 3' foundation. Three pours when I did mine. Footing, foundation, slab (6"/3500). Power trowel and control joints. 24x28 cost approximately 12k. My concrete contractor did all of the excavation and ripped up an old driveway also.

 

[DougWil]

If you plan on framing walls, you can do concrete. I built my own forms and poured my own walls. I did not pour the floor

Tree cutting cost: $1,000
Excavation: $ 800
Plywood for footing $ 250
16' chute $300
Concrete for footing $1,100
Wood for forms $1,000
Concrete for foundation $2,300
Wire mesh, pins, etc. $400
Concrete for slab $2,000
Labor for slab $1,000

Total cost before framing walls was about $10,000 and I did most of the work myself. A licensed, insured contractor I figured would have been 1.5 to 2 times the cost.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259512

Yep, I used my homemade forms once and sold them for 2/3 the material cost.

 

[brianh]

Like others said the concrete is cheap I did my 40 x 60 6" thick for 5000 in concrete not counting rebar and gravel I made my footings and forms called the trucks to pour and had two guys help we did it in 3 20x40 pours. Long island labor costs are it. I grew up there 40 years ago, nothing is getting cheaper.

 

[lakeroadster]

you don't need the whole pad 6", just where you're going to mount the lift lol

This could make the slab crack.

Agreed. The ideal situation is the bottom of the slab as flat as the top.

Follow the spec's of the manufacturer of the lift.

 

[Gnfantic]

ok guys, just spoke to the town and this is the story:

750 sq ft max and 15ft high if I dont want to apply with a variance.

If I am doing concrete footing:
3' deep, 12" wide
#5 rebar
8" above grade.
can be in a trench, no forms required.

If I am doing concrete block:
8x8x16
#5 rebar every 2 ft
pad will 8" deep, 16" wide and re-inforced with #5 rebar


slab:

3.5" thick, 3500 PSI, 5-7% air entrainment



I am thinking concrete block would be the cheapest route??

thoughts? Suggestions?

 

[wssix99]

I am thinking concrete block would be the cheapest route??

Cheap, yes. As durable as poured concrete, no.

It all depends on how long you plan to use the structure, where you live, and to what level of quality you want to build it <- balancing all that with cost.

If I was to live on a property for just a few years and then flip it, I'd definitely go with block. It would be fine for the next owner and they will likely never know the difference. (They won't be digging up your yard during the sales process to check out your foundations...)

 

[Gnfantic]

I was just thinking ab out something. How in gods name can I have a lift in my garage when the height of the garage is only 15 ft? that to the peak of the roof.

 

[lakeroadster]

ok guys, just spoke to the town and this is the story:

750 sq ft max and 15ft high if I dont want to apply with a variance.
...

thoughts? Suggestions?

Typically the height restriction is to the roof ridge, not the wall height.

Did you get clarification on that?

 

[Gnfantic]

Typically the height restriction is to the roof ridge, not the wall height.

Did you get clarification on that?

The lady told me the roof ridge! I hope she is wrong I will clarify tomorrow. Why cant it be the same height as my house?

 

[lakeroadster]

The lady told me the roof ridge! I hope she is wrong I will clarify tomorrow. Why cant it be the same height as my house?

It can be the same height, in all probability.. you'll need a variance.

With good plans and drawings , with some pictorials of the house with the new building it's likely very doable.

Keep the faith.

 

[countryss]

Im in oyster bay long island was thinking about getting a garage poured as well. Curious to see what other numbers you get.

 

[jack stand]

You'll be fine with block, and 15' ridge height will be fine also. I would think that you could have a 10' wall with a decent (5/12) pitch for 750 s/f building roughly 24x30 with the ridge running the 30' dimension. You might want to bring the block up (beyond slab elev.) so your only framing 8' of wall. This gives you a sturdy lower wall up above moisture issues, inside & out.

 

[ddawg16]

Code sounds almost identical to what we have here.

3' Footing (In your case it's to get below the frost line.
You will want the 8' stem wall. It gets all of your wood above the ground.

I have the same 15' max....and that is to the peak of the garage roof. Of course, I used the highest point in my yard.

Rebar....2 #4's in the bottom....2 #4's in the top. And where your ramp is into the garage you have a good sized rebar 'beam'. Mine was 3' deep and at least 2' wide.

I know some say no rebar or mesh in the field...but....given the small additional cost, why not?

3.5-4" is fine....except I'd pour 'pads' where you think the lift is going to be...say about 3' x 3' and 1' deep. And this is why I think you need rebar. It will help transfer loads around.

Plan on doing an Ufer ground....you lay a 20' length of #4 copper wire in the footing at the bottom and that becomes your earth ground....tie it to your rebar and you will NOT have grounding issues.

Remember....fixing foundation mistakes is not easy. You'll regret any short cuts.

 

[Gnfantic]

jackstand and ddawg16, you saying with a 15ft peak I am still able to have a 4 post lift on either side of the garage?? I was thinking the roof would be to low on the sides??

 

[brownbagg]

if you have a clayey type soil, you can get by without forming, cut a three foot trench , back a truck up, and then pour the slab

 

[rburke65]

What type of trusses are you planning to use? How tall are your vehicles?

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I didn't read the rest of the replays but I just built a 28x40 in new hampsire. I got prices all over the map. This is what it cost me.

Total including dirt work with fill for a 4 foot frost wall and 4 inch floor with 4000k psi $10,200

Frost walls and floor was $7500

Dirt work was $1500

Fill was $1200

My build. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=344714

 

[jack stand]

jackstand and ddawg16, you saying with a 15ft peak I am still able to have a 4 post lift on either side of the garage?? I was thinking the roof would be to low on the sides??

I don't know about the req. lift height clearance. All I'm suggesting is that you should be able to have a 10' wall height and stay within your (no variance) town building limitations. Generally town's try to keep "accessory" buildings in a residential area from dominating the visual appearance of the property by size restrictions. I wonder if you kept this in mind and went for a minor variance, (like a foot or 2 in height) how understanding they would be for an existing resident. It's not like your building a McDonald's

 

[lakeroadster]

It's not like your building a McDonald's

Opinions vary... my next door neighbor calls my 30 x 44 x 10 "The Min-Walmart".
_____________________________________________

Gnfanatic... Here are some layouts I did for another member... these are both under 15 ft tall at the ridge, but it is a 24 ft. building. It assumes a free span design or a ridge beam design, which will give you the most usable space in the roof area.

My barn uses a free span design, this can also be done with traditional stick style building construction. See my build thread in signature line below for more information.

 

[foogotz]

You'll be fine with block, and 15' ridge height will be fine also. I would think that you could have a 10' wall with a decent (5/12) pitch for 750 s/f building roughly 24x30 with the ridge running the 30' dimension. You might want to bring the block up (beyond slab elev.) so your only framing 8' of wall. This gives you a sturdy lower wall up above moisture issues, inside & out.

What he said!