Fridge tripping GFCI - what can I do?

[ddawg16]

ddawg16, is that actually GFCI protection or GFP with a trip setting of 100 amps or more? (to those who dont know, ground fault protection is required on services over 2000 amps / 480 and is commonly installed on 2000 amp 120/208Y services as well since your main breaker will see a short as a load and wont trip. Ever seen a 2000 amp arc welder? There have been buildings where several floors of 5000amp 480v bus duct burned down)

the wire position in the CT is important here, especially considering the currents involved. I havent opened a gfci receptacle in a long time but as i recalll the CT in there doesnt have any room for the sense conductors to move around.

MRB....it's been about 6-7 years since I was there at that site....but I'm inclined to think it was GFP.

I hate those Siemans disconnects.....you know the type...draw out.....to energize, you pump it up...then hit the button....it will make you jump if you don't know what to expect....

 

[mrb]

MRB....it's been about 6-7 years since I was there at that site....but I'm inclined to think it was GFP.

I hate those Siemans disconnects.....you know the type...draw out.....to energize, you pump it up...then hit the button....it will make you jump if you don't know what to expect....

whats worse is when you have a guy who doesnt know how to work the thing break it. (i forget the action or failure mode, but I know its possible to break them from doing it wrong)

 

[tcianci]

Insulate the fridge from the concrete floor

 

[TomCooper]

I've got this situation today. I installed GFI outlets in the garage about a year ago - decent quality stuff - and a couple of weeks ago the fridge blew the GFI while I was out of town.

My wife reset the thing and it hs blown a couple of times since then.

Today I took a look at it, and it would not work after a reset. I tried other outlets and they blew, too.

I tested it with a "ground lifter adapter" and the fridge is working.

Any thoughts about how to troubleshoot further?

 

[dbonne]

See if the referigerator has a switch for the door seal heaters, usually it is marked as "energy saver" switch. The door seal heaters tend to leak current to ground and trip the GFCI. Turn it on to energy saver mode and see what happens!

 

[tylernt]

I know this is contrary to what ddawg just said, and I don't doubt his word, but consider this:

A downstream receptacle from a GFCI has some capacitance in the wires connecting them. This capacitance can false trip a GFCI, and the effect is worse as the wires get longer (which is why, if you look in the instructions for GFCIs, they often say not to put downstream receptacles more than like 100 ft away).

So it may help -- in this situation -- to put the fridge on it's own GFCI to eliminate this potential cause of false trips.

 

[VT_Mike]

I had this issue with the fridge in my garage--when we first turned it on, it would trip the GFCI every 10 hours or so. I replaced the defrost timer, and the problem continued. I Googled and found lots of people having the same problem, but no viable solutions. Then I thought about how "a full cooler is a cold cooler", and that the fridge would be working extra hard to cool an empty space. I had a 24 pack of Gatorades from Costco, threw that in the fridge, and voila. It's been 3 weeks now and the GFCI hasn't tripped since. I'm sure this won't be the solution for everyone, but it is certainly an easy thing to try.

 

[Dagny]

Did anyone see the part where he says it trips it when it's off? That eliminates a lot of wires and components.

 

[Mach5]

Reviving a dead thread...I have the same problem. I have an older refrigerator that used to be in the house that was moved into the garage. Worked great on the GFCI for several months. Came out one day and it was off. GFCI tripped. Reset it and it immediately tripped. I pulled off the rear panel at the bottom but didn't see any obvious faults. Removed the back panel in the freezer to expose the components that cool the interior. Again, no obvious signs of a fault (I'm looking for signs of arcing). Could it be the GFCI is doing its job too quickly for any arcing to occur?

Anyway, like the OP, mine blows the GFCI as soon as it is plugged in, even with the unit completely off. I'm torn because it's a fairly nice fridge but it might be cheaper just to buy a used one than to fix this one. Particularly because I know very little about the components or how to test myself, so I'd have to hire someone to do the work.

Any refrigerator / small appliance folks in the group who have encountered this problem?

 

[AntonLargiader]

You could rig a way to measure current on the ground prong, but honestly I would start by just installing a new GFCI outlet if that one is old. They have finite lifespans it seems.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

The key here is that u moved the fridge.

The culprit with fridges tripping GFCIs is almost always the defrost bulb being broken.

Since u moved the fridge, this is a highly likely guess.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Wow. Searching for "GFCI fridge defrost" brings up a ton of stuff about this. Thanks for that!

 

[Mach5]

Where would this defrost bulb be? I take it that it has glass or some other fragile material as part of its construction? I did move it, but again it ran in its spot in the garage for several months after being moved.

 

[Mach5]

I don't think the GFCI is the problem. The fridge trips the GFCI immediately when plugged in, while other things plugged into the GFCI don't trip it even when turned on.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Google search it. Depends on your fridge. The heater can go bad, touch something, etc. It's on a timer that only runs it every now and then, so it could be that the timer hasn't run since you moved it.

Or it's not the fridge, but rather a bad receptacle.

 

[sberry]

I don't recall seeing gfci working too good. I see them fail to reset all the time. I just replaced one yesterday. Its nice the new ones are deeper and now don't fit shallow boxes.

 

[Milton Shaw]

As a retired GE service tech, I would say go on and remove the inside back of the freezer and change the defrost heater. Probably going to find it with glass broken or with wires burned off. They were noted for being the number one problem on ten year old refigs. I would carry 4 of 5 of the same part number for those refigs. There was a redesign on the replacement parts so don't be alarmed if the new heater does not look like the original. They replaced a unit with two different glass heaters with one that has 3 heaters with one being in parallel for the bottom heater. That's two heaters in the same bracket to replace one. Get the GE replacement part not someone else's aftermarket as it will not be the new design.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I don't recall seeing gfci working too good. I see them fail to reset all the time. I just replaced one yesterday. Its nice the new ones are deeper and now don't fit shallow boxes.

The "newer" (?) GFCIs will NOT reset if power is not applied.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I could be wrong on this, but I seem to recall there is an "exception" to the GFCI requirement in garages, but you must use a single (not duplex) outlet.

 

[AntonLargiader]

I could be wrong on this, but I seem to recall there is an "exception" to the GFCI requirement in garages, but you must use a single (not duplex) outlet.

I think that's history now. AFAIK all of the exceptions are gone as of the last few code cycles. I found a few conflicting things about this and in every case the eventual answer was that there was no more exception.

I specifically wanted to find a single-receptacle exemption. Not that I would have used it, but I really looked to see if it would pass or not.

 

[Mach5]

All...thanks for the help. Life got in the way and it took a LONG time to get back on this project. I did as someone here suggested and plugged the Refrigerator into another outlet using a high quality heavy duty extension cord. It didn't trip the circuit breaker. Turned down the temp to kick on the compressor and it worked and no breaker trip.

So, apparently it WAS the GFCI that was faulty. I ended up replacing the GFCI and put the fridge back together and plugged it in there. It took a long time to get cold enough to freeze the test water bottles I put in the freezer, but eventually it got good and cold and seems to still be working fine.

I do have one remaining concern. The blower fan that circulates cold air inside the unit doesn't seem to be working. When I can get a moment I'll circuit test for power and then check the fan motor.

Anyway, thanks for the help!

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[alfredeneuman]

(to those who dont know, ground fault protection is required on services over 2000 amps / 480 and is commonly installed on 2000 amp 120/208Y services as well since your main breaker will see a short as a load and wont trip.

It's required on all services over 1000 amps, and only on solidly grounded wye services such as 277/480 (not 480 delta) and 120/208 volt systems, (not that it makes a whole lot of difference on this board where most don't deal with services over 200amp)

 

[matt151617]

I do have one remaining concern. The blower fan that circulates cold air inside the unit doesn't seem to be working. When I can get a moment I'll circuit test for power and then check the fan motor.

Maybe it's already cold enough? Leave a thermometer in the fridge and see if it's at proper operating temperature (35-40 degrees F).

 

[Crazyjake8493]

A refrigerator should not be on a GFCI. It should be on it's own dedicated circuit. That's code here in VA.

He mentioned the fridge was in his garage, and per NEC 210.8(A) all garage receptacles must be GFCI-protected. I agree that the refrigerator should be on it's own circuit anyway, if possible.

Unless it is a very old GFCI, it shouldn't be tripping just from a fridge being used on it. Either the GFCI has failed or it is doing it's job and detecting a fault condition.

I have two fridges (house and garage), washing machine, sump pump, and have also used my shop vac and air compressor on GFCI receptacles (2011 and newer) and never had a single trip.

 

[jim111]

Good grief this thread has lived seven years and three code cycles

 

[wyliesdiesels]

He mentioned the fridge was in his garage, and per NEC 210.8(A) all garage receptacles must be GFCI-protected. I agree that the refrigerator should be on it's own circuit anyway, if possible.

Unless it is a very old GFCI, it shouldn't be tripping just from a fridge being used on it. Either the GFCI has failed or it is doing it's job and detecting a fault condition.

I have two fridges (house and garage), washing machine, sump pump, and have also used my shop vac and air compressor on GFCI receptacles (2011 and newer) and never had a single trip.

Sometimes, fridges have defroster bulbs that have broken. Every time the defrost bulb turns on, the GFCI detects leakage current and trips...

 

[capww8]

Good grief this thread has lived seven years and three code cycles

 

[bigb56]

Good grief this thread has lived seven years and three code cycles

Yep it's lived on and the codes have changed. I wasn't a member here when it started but I am trying to find a foster home since WW went down so here I am.

A few months ago we had a home inspector on one of our jobs saying we cannot put the GDO on the GFCI circuit. I told him not only can we, we are required to. He didn't like that answer.

As far as fridges and freezers in garages, they do kill people. Vending machines too. Most of the people killed are children because they are barefoot. You have to ask yourself if your beer or food is more important.

 

[Mach5]

Final update: Fridge continues to work well at the GFCI location, and I've heard the fan running, too. Everything seems to be normal.

 

[nsula_country]

Sometimes, fridges have defroster bulbs that have broken. Every time the defrost bulb turns on, the GFCI detects leakage current and trips...

Beer fridge in the shop is down for maintenance as we speak. Broken defrost element...

Did not find it because of GFCI (not on one, Ag building). But rather frosted up and beer got warm... Have a new element on order.

Moral is if fridge is tripping GFCI, check defrost circuit.

CT

 

[radiojoe]

We had the same problem...a perfectly good kitchen fridge relocated to the garage immediately and constantly tripped the cfgi outlet.

When I plugged the refrigerator into a 99 cent 3-prong to 2-prong adapter plug for use in older houses then plugged the assembly into the outlet, the fridge motor powered up and has been running fine ever since.

 

[Bert_]

We had the same problem...a perfectly good kitchen fridge relocated to the garage immediately and constantly tripped the cfgi outlet.

When I plugged the refrigerator into a 99 cent 3-prong to 2-prong adapter plug for use in older houses then plugged the assembly into the outlet, the fridge motor powered up and has been running fine ever since.

Not recommended. You now have a shock hazard since their is no ground and you obviously have leakage current since it was tripping the GFCI.

I wouldn't be afraid to swap for a standard outlet but what you are suggesting is a terrible idea.

 

[bigb56]

Not recommended. You now have a shock hazard since their is no ground and you obviously have leakage current since it was tripping the GFCI.

I wouldn't be afraid to swap for a standard outlet but what you are suggesting is a terrible idea.

Definitely not recommended but replacing the recep with non GFCI in the garage would be even worse. Right now if someone makes a path from the refrigerator to ground through their body, and there is leakage, the GFCI will trip before they can be electrocuted. With a non gfci receptacle the leakage may find it's return through the grounding conductor but a person who is well grounded ie barefoot and wet could touch the refrigerator and become an additional path. There will be no GFCI to trip so the current will flow through the person unchecked.

GFCIs are required in garages as a result of deaths, unfortunately mostly children. In one case a male without a shirt on sat down against an old refrigerator, he was damp and sweaty and was killed. Usually it's a barefoot kid going to get a soda. Same reason GFCIs are required on vending machines.

The proper fix is repair or replace the faulty appliance.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

We had the same problem...a perfectly good kitchen fridge relocated to the garage immediately and constantly tripped the cfgi outlet.

When I plugged the refrigerator into a 99 cent 3-prong to 2-prong adapter plug for use in older houses then plugged the assembly into the outlet, the fridge motor powered up and has been running fine ever since.

TOTALLY WRONG AND DANGEROUS

Theres a reason the GFCI was tripping. It was alerting you to a dangerous situation.

Does your refrigerator have a defrost bulb? If so, when you moved the fridge, it most likely broke which is causing a short to the chassis of the fridge and onto the ground on the receptacle. this is leakage current. Not enough to trip the breaker but more than 5ma and thus why the GFCI was tripping.

You should remove the stupid adapter and get the fridge repaired.

 

[nadogail]

My but has been saved by a GFCI more than once.

Get that refrigerator fixed.

 

[Bert_]

Definitely not recommended but replacing the recep with non GFCI in the garage would be even worse. Right now if someone makes a path from the refrigerator to ground through their body, and there is leakage, the GFCI will trip before they can be electrocuted. With a non gfci receptacle the leakage may find it's return through the grounding conductor but a person who is well grounded ie barefoot and wet could touch the refrigerator and become an additional path. There will be no GFCI to trip so the current will flow through the person unchecked.

GFCIs are required in garages as a result of deaths, unfortunately mostly children. In one case a male without a shirt on sat down against an old refrigerator, he was damp and sweaty and was killed. Usually it's a barefoot kid going to get a soda. Same reason GFCIs are required on vending machines.

The proper fix is repair or replace the faulty appliance.

I suppose that's right, the GFCI still offers protection without a ground. Otherwise we wouldn't be allowed to use them on 2 wire circuits.

I still don't like putting fridges and freezers on GFCIs. A properly grounded appliance won't have any shock potential. Usually they get noticed when they trip but sometimes it doesn't.

I did some rewiring once and installed GFCIs in the basement as are required. Week or so later the freezer pop the GFCI and nobody noticed till it was all thawed. I ended up paying for most of the meat and put a regular outlet back in. I'm not making that mistake again.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I suppose that's right, the GFCI still offers protection without a ground. Otherwise we wouldn't be allowed to use them on 2 wire circuits.

I still don't like putting fridges and freezers on GFCIs. A properly grounded appliance won't have any shock potential. Usually they get noticed when they trip but sometimes it doesn't.

I did some rewiring once and installed GFCIs in the basement as are required. Week or so later the freezer pop the GFCI and nobody noticed till it was all thawed. I ended up paying for most of the meat and put a regular outlet back in. I'm not making that mistake again.

This was for a customer? If so, why did you pay for the meat when you wired it to code? Their freezer had a fault but yet its your responsibility to pay for the meat?

 

[Showkey]

This was for a customer? If so, why did you pay for the meat when you wired it to code? Their freezer had a fault but yet its your responsibility to pay for the meat?

Because sooner or later ........you realize nuisance tripping on GFCI is a real thing and the sump pump, freezer or refrig might NOT have a fault. True many times they do.......but it’s not a sure thing. Especially a freezer with no auto defrost. Arc fault nuisance tripping seem to even worse.

 

[AntonLargiader]

For under $20 you can buy GFCI receps with audible alarm. Leviton, Legrand, Cooper/Eaton, maybe others. My nearest Home Depot has them in stock today.

i don't get why people are so adamant about bypassing a safety requirement rather than just using an alarm GFCI.

 

[exranger06]

For under $20 you can buy GFCI receps with audible alarm. Leviton, Legrand, Cooper/Eaton, maybe others. My nearest Home Depot has them in stock today.

i don't get why people are so adamant about bypassing a safety requirement rather than just using an alarm GFCI.

Yes, I was also going to suggest the GFCI with alarm. I installed one a few years ago for my basement fridge. I've never had a problem with nuisance tripping though.