Whats going on inside my Baldor Grinder?

[RobsForge]

I got this from a welding shop and it is wired in 220. so far I only got this far. I want to rewire it to 110. Im guessing this wasn't from the factory 220 and the guy I bought it from added the capacitor? the wires coming from the motor are labeled 1,8,and 4......1 and 8 go to the capacitor and 4 goes to the switch. Im very confused because this is not my forte but I really want to get this grinder useable. I actually wire nutted some Romex to it and it runs just fine it just takes a while to get up to speed, I'm guessing its the capacitor. PLEASE HELP.

 

[RobsForge]

I really want to rewire the whole thing

 

[redmondjp]

Is there a nameplate on it? Based upon the fact that there are only three wires coming out from the motor windings, I think that that is a single-voltage motor and you are going to be stuck with it as-is. Yes, it will spin on 120VAC but I wouldn't run it that way.

 

[jallyn]

A single phase motor needs a capacitor whether it is 110 or 220 volt. Is there a nameplate on the motor. That will tell you if it is a dual voltage motor or what.

 

[bczygan]

 

[6PTsocket]

It is typical of many Baldors. The capacitor absolutely belongs there. Sometimes there was just one 8mfd cap and sometimes a 12 mfd and sometimes there were two 8mfds in parallel. Do NOT change the connections to the capacitor. What concerns me is that I see no numbers on the wires. For 220 : wires 1 and 4 go across the line and 2 and 3 are tied together. For 120: 1 and 3 are paired and go to one side of the line. 2 and 4 are paired and go to the other side of the line. Sometimes they used color coded wires instead of numbers but I cannot tell from the picture. This information covers many Baldor grinders but a nameplate model number would be best. Do you have the bottom cover plate and is there a number on it?. Oh yeah, and put a proper terminal on the green ground wire.

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[Cope]

My 7" Baldor takes much longer to get up to speed than my 7" Dayton, but it spins much longer after I turn it off.

 

[californiaHank]

It seems to be a single voltage motor. The type is called a 'capacitor run' motor. It is very likely a plain 220V one, and not a 110/220 V motor. There are two windings inside the motor - a main winding and a capacitor winding. One of the wires coming out of the motor goes to the main winding, one goes to the capacitor winding, and the third one is common to both windings.

The connections you described for the different terminals are completely correct for this kind of motor and the capacitor is necessary for the motor to work properly. The capacitor was put there by the manufacturer - it wasn't added by a previous owner.

 

[Carla]

Rob,

Is the factory data plate on your grinder intact and readable?

If so, I should think you could call or e-mail the Baldor works, giving any model or serial numbers from the data plate, and ask politely for a copy of the wiring drawing for that model.

If the data plate is obscured, someone at the Baldor works should be able to determine the model or models it might be, from the dimensions of the motor housing, and a photo of the end-bells and wheel-guards. From this, they should be able to send you multiple drawings, of which one would be correct. There well may be differences in the capacitor values between different models, iterations, or versions of the same hp rating of grinder, so one might ask whether a resistance reading of the windings could identify the specific model or version.

Even the paint colour could make a difference, as I remember. The Baldor works, at one time, offered a 'cheap model' of several sizes of their grinders, painted red instead of their common grey. Some Baldor grinders made on contract for, and badged by, the Powermatic Co. may be found, those were painted green. I've no idea as to whether they might have used a different version of windings for those units, of which the resistance reading may vary, but it 'couldn't hurt to ask'.

cheers

Carla

 

[RobsForge]

this is the name plate

 

[RobsForge]

Is there a nameplate on it? Based upon the fact that there are only three wires coming out from the motor windings, I think that that is a single-voltage motor and you are going to be stuck with it as-is. Yes, it will spin on 120VAC but I wouldn't run it that way.

I have a pic up now. thanks

 

[RobsForge]

Is there a nameplate on it? Based upon the fact that there are only three wires coming out from the motor windings, I think that that is a single-voltage motor and you are going to be stuck with it as-is. Yes, it will spin on 120VAC but I wouldn't run it that way.

A single phase motor needs a capacitor whether it is 110 or 220 volt. Is there a nameplate on the motor. That will tell you if it is a dual voltage motor or what.

Yeah, you're out of luck that's 240v only.

Whats the harm of running it on 110? I had it going on it and it seemed to have plenty of power.

 

[exmaxima1]

Whats the harm of running it on 110? I had it going on it and it seemed to have plenty of power.

It has 1/4 of the power, if that's what you'd call "plenty"

 

[6PTsocket]

Rob,

Is the factory data plate on your grinder intact and readable?

If so, I should think you could call or e-mail the Baldor works, giving any model or serial numbers from the data plate, and ask politely for a copy of the wiring drawing for that model.

If the data plate is obscured, someone at the Baldor works should be able to determine the model or models it might be, from the dimensions of the motor housing, and a photo of the end-bells and wheel-guards. From this, they should be able to send you multiple drawings, of which one would be correct. There well may be differences in the capacitor values between different models, iterations, or versions of the same hp rating of grinder, so one might ask whether a resistance reading of the windings could identify the specific model or version.

Even the paint colour could make a difference, as I remember. The Baldor works, at one time, offered a 'cheap model' of several sizes of their grinders, painted red instead of their common grey. Some Baldor grinders made on contract for, and badged by, the Powermatic Co. may be found, those were painted green. I've no idea as to whether they might have used a different version of windings for those units, of which the resistance reading may vary, but it 'couldn't hurt to ask'.

cheers

Carla

They are currently offering some models painted either red or gray. The internet is loaded with Baldor wiring diagrams if you can figure out which model you have.

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[jallyn]

Very cool old grinder. No doubt older than half of us reading this. Only rated for a single voltage: 230 volts. So if you want full power run it on 240.

 

[Davefr]

Whats the harm of running it on 110? I had it going on it and it seemed to have plenty of power.

With half the power, the motor will likely slow down with a load. When that happens in an induction motors it's called slip. Slip causes a large increase in amps as the motor approaches stall. When that happens the windings will burn out.

That's the same reason Sears lies about the horsepower of motors. They use some idiotic stall amps to calculate HP vs. running amps.

Either run that grinder on 220VAC or replace it.

 

[exmaxima1]

.

Either run that grinder on 220VAC or replace it.

It only needs 2.4 amps @230, so a step-up transformer (500 watt) would not be too costly.

 

[bubinga]

Very cool old grinder. No doubt older than half of us reading this. Only rated for a single voltage: 230 volts. So if you want full power run it on 240.

l see and agree it says 230 V
But why does the Amps say 2/4
like you see on motors, 4 amps@ 110 and 2 amps @ 220.
Of course 4 Amps at 120 for 1/2 hp don't sound right either.

OP, no spare slots in the breaker panel.

 

[bubinga]

It says 2.4. There's just a small scratch or smudge above the decimal that makes it look almost like a forward slash.

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK THKS,

I See it Now!

 

[RobsForge]

I'm just running 220. It wasn't about saving money its just annoying because my panel is in a finished portion of my house about as far away from the garage as possible. thanks for the help fellas.

 

[RobsForge]

Yeah, you're out of luck that's 240v only.

okay but now my next problem is the wires on the power cord are all dry rotted and cracking with bare wire showing coming from the capacitor. The power cord is soldered to the capacitor. do I have to get a new capacitor now ?

 

[bubinga]

I'm just running 220. It wasn't about saving money its just annoying because my panel is in a finished portion of my house about as far away from the garage as possible. thanks for the help fellas.

If you have to run with, may as well cm"cry once" and run a little 60 amp sup panel out to the garage.
Who knows, might need none 220 circuits for a welder?

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[American Locomotive]

okay but now my next problem is the wires on the power cord are all dry rotted and cracking with bare wire showing coming from the capacitor. The power cord is soldered to the capacitor. do I have to get a new capacitor now ?

One of your pictures shows that the cord is attached with wire nuts?

 

[RobsForge]

One of your pictures shows that the cord is attached with wire nuts?

Oh yes sorry there is a set of what looks to be original aluminum wire running from the capacitor to the Power cord that is wire nutted. Isn't aluminum and copper a bad combo?

 

[jallyn]

Could be aluminum...could be tin-coated copper. If you cut a little into it at the very end you could see what's inside. Coated copper is the best kind of wiring...aluminum the worst.

 

[6PTsocket]

Oh yes sorry there is a set of what looks to be original aluminum wire running from the capacitor to the Power cord that is wire nutted. Isn't aluminum and copper a bad combo?

There is no aluminum power cord or hook up wire. It was used briefly in house wiring and is used in the heavy wiring bringing power into your house. If it is silver colored it is " tinned" to prevent copper corrosion. If you need a new cord, buy a replacement. I think 16/ 3 should be heavy enough. If you can't find one, get a good quality, short extension cord and cut off the female end. The wire should be marked SJO or SJOO or SJOW or SJOOW if the grinder cord is going to be expposed to oil or water.( O for oil, W for water) I cannot speak for what everybody does but motor capacitors usually have quick disconnets (Faston connectors). I would use them if I was cleaning up the wiring and the capacitor had the tabs.

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