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Craftsman 5185 Vise Restoration

Sdflcorran

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Joined
Mar 4, 2017
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11
Location
Florida
Going to post pictures as I progress on my first vise restore.

This first post will basically mirror my post on the big Vises of GJ thread.

After buying a house last year I decided that I needed an old vise that I could restore. About 3 days into seriously looking I missed out on a $25 Simplex by an hour or two because I was helping someone move and didn't see the ad in time.

Couple days after that, I noticed a Craftsman on Craigslist.

After a little digging here I realized it's a long "C" 5185 made by Reed that matches the description of the 1945 model on Outlawmws's Craftsman catalog post.

I bugged the seller for almost a week before he agreed to meet. After confirming the cast jaws weren't destroyed I practically flung the $35 he was asking for it at him (I think at that point he realized a mistake on his part, but I had the post on my phone to prove it).

Lot of bug guts and grime. The slide has not been mistreated too badly, but was definitely deformed - the last 1/4 was a bear to pull out.


Everything came off easily but the vise nut and the lead screw. My "shop" is mostly made up of a mini B&D home kit from when I got married. Not really equipped for larger projects - which is the whole point of this vise.

I played around with a pick and got a small square nut to come out of the vise nut cavity. I have no idea how it got in there while the dynamic jaw was installed but figured it had deformed the front edge of the vise nut and that's why it wasn't coming out. I lined up some scrap wood and gave it a few "quiet" (since the kids were asleep) taps from a hammer. That pushed it out and confirmed my suspicions that the square nut had gotten caught between the static jaw and the vise nut which caused the deformation. I hit it with a file until it went in and out smoothly.

Here the only thing left to disassemble was the lead screw. Note the blue tint to the static jaw.


I couldn't figure out how to take out the lead screw. After looking at the base again and realizing it was a Reed, I spent about 40 minutes trying to find someone clearly describing the split nut removal (found it somewhere on GJ). The dynamic jaw got set vertically and I wrapped a WD-40 soaked paper towel around the bulb so that it could soak in around the split nut.

At this point my lack of proper tools and **** retentive detail oriented self had probably put 4-5 hours into the vise.
 
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Sdflcorran

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Mar 4, 2017
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Florida
Spent some birthday cash on a 5 gallon bucket, heavy duty Simple Green concentrate and a few wire wheels.

I let it soak in a 4:1 mix for 3 days along with an axe head and mattock head, then pulled it out to see if there was any paint left to remove (yes on the axe and mattock; no on the vise).

There was blue pigment on any surface that had been horizontal in the bucket.


The blue would wipe away the second it was touched with a rag.

Upon closer inspection (and wire wheeling) I was able to see where the cast jaws met the body. No clue how Reed managed to pull that off.


Right now the vise is sitting on my bench with a coat of WD-40 (due to flash rust), waiting for me to finish smoothing out the slide and them mask/paint.

Probably 10 hours into it now.
 

SweetD

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Feb 8, 2010
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Rhode Island
Congrats on a really nice Reed/C-Man vise! I have its slightly larger brother:

CMan 5187.jpg

I've had it completely disassembled, lubed, and re-assembled, but I've made no attempt to restore it. It works perfectly and is in near perfect mechanical condition. I was VERY lucky to randomly find it several years ago on c-list locally, for $50.

I've dated mine in a range of 1942-47.

:beer:

Dave
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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SD: these Long C craftsman vises made by Reed vise company are some of my favorites. sorry i didn't save the catalog pages on how Reed cast their vises with the hardened steel jaws in the casting, but they did a waaaaaay better than average job doing it.

what color did you say you are going to paint it or are you going NAKED with BLO?

good luck
 
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Sdflcorran

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Sweet: Mine is in the same date rage as far as I can tell. No luck with any date stamping on mine. It looks identical to the picture in the 1945 catalog (minus the pictured replaceable jaws). Not sure who that made it past the proofreader.

Drives: The plan is to really polish the contact surfaces between dynamic/static and static/base - lot of draw filing yet to do there. I'll try to remember to take pictures tonight, but there are a ton of machining marks on the bottom of the slide and the static jaw. I would think smoother contact surfaces will mean smoother action during use. Learning a lot right now - the flash rust after pulling it from the Simple Green really surprised me. Guess I probably need to give it a coat or two of BLO or something prior to paint. WD-40 is all I have right now.

Plan is to go original blue and either white or silver lettering. Jeremy Burke's big brother 5186 is the main inspiration right now. Not sure if I want to full on polish the slide or let it oxidize, but I will likely try to polish the sides and top of the jaws, just like his.

The whole process has been an education with the limited tools I have. Hopefully I have nearly everything I need since my birthday cash is all blown on restoration supplies.
 
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drivesitfar

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SD: just an FYI. if you are going to paint the vise i wouldn't spray or wipe on WD40 cause you'll have to clean it all off prior to painting. BLO can be painted right over if you don't want to leave it NAKED. just saying you might just like a NAKED BLO vise so maybe try that first and see if you like it as much as I (we) do.

I remember Jeremy's Craftsman made by Reed that he restored. i actually sold Jeremy his first vintage vise and i'm sure if he didn't have 3 boys and a wife to support his vise collection would be the nicest around. as it is he has some pretty sweet vises and here's the Holland's 15 i sold him that he made a pretty decent bench for.

good luck
 

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Sdflcorran

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Florida
SD: just an FYI. if you are going to paint the vise i wouldn't spray or wipe on WD40 cause you'll have to clean it all off prior to painting. BLO can be painted right over if you don't want to leave it NAKED. just saying you might just like a NAKED BLO vise so maybe try that first and see if you like it as much as I (we) do.

I do like the idea of a naked vise - it just might not be this vise. Do I need to strip the WD-40 with more Simple Green prior to BLO? It feels dry to the touch like it soaked into the metal.
 

Smokeshow69

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I do like the idea of a naked vise - it just might not be this vise. Do I need to strip the WD-40 with more Simple Green prior to BLO? It feels dry to the touch like it soaked into the metal.



Yes you will need to thoroughly clean it with a degreaser and make sure it is all gone otherwise the paint will fisheye and not stick...FYI a little flash rust on a vise before painting it will not harm the paint at all... I am sure this happened at the factory all the time and the paint is still there all these years later !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

drivesitfar

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Sd: WD 40 dries pretty fast especially in GOD's Waiting room so if it's dry to the touch you might be ok to paint and just wanted you to know that there is an issue painting over wet WD 40.
 

AngryBeaver

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any finished pictures? I'm curious if there is a date stamp on the left hand side like me 5185 has...

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