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The VISES of Garage Journal

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,009
Location
Pacific Northwest
AKA & CARLA: thanks for the links and information!! :thumbup:

WJA: happy to see you got that REED 104.5 and also very happy you like it. i had a good feeling you'd like a REED a lot better than the other vise you were looking at.

take a peak at the vises and grinders stands thread and if you might be able to put a hitch mount on front and sides of your work bench you'll be able to have access like a swivel and also be able to remove the vise when it might be in the way.

here's the link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252799

here's a picture of a hitch mounted vise i had handy in case you are not sure what i'm talking about.

WELL DONE SIR and hope it didn't break the bank too bad to pick up your new almost 100 year old REED.
 

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Carla

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
Jim and Carla, actually the handle and channel looks to be a fairly easy job to remake especially if you have a milling machine. This one I replaced the pin with a home made one because it was to sloppy. I forged a head on a 3/32 pin and re drilled the hole a little bigger and added a small C-Clip. But looking at the handle you can see that 3/32 channel could be made and with a welder a short hand made handle could be welded and formed to the original shape like these pic's I added. The handle is made to snap in place when pulled up,

Carla, I need to figure out how to cast bronze. I am clueless to where to start. Plastic Injection molds are no problem but clueless on Casting Bronze. Can you recommend a book on this subject. I would like to read about the different ways to cast. I would love to build a mold for casting the inner rings for the Wilton swivel bases, Wilton's break real easy and I get calls every week with people saying theirs has broken. I can see where a better cast material and thicker sections would help in keeping these from breaking. I have a foundry very close to me but want to know a little about this process before talking with them.

Hi, Kevin,

Yes, I'd quite agree, the little cam lever part for the detent pin on a Prentiss vise could be readily re-made, whether by making a pattern for casting, or by machining from the solid.

If I had to make a one-off, I think I'd mill it in steel, to a rectangle with the clearance cut for the pin, and the cam surface suitably radiused. Then I'd grab it in a 4-jaw, and turn the 'handle' shape, after which I'd bring the lower end of the handle to a full red and bend it to match the original configuration. Its readily do-able, but involves a good bit more working time than does the older style 'button' handle.

Re bronze casting......I'm the wrong person to ask. I'm not a foundry person, and I have a lot of respect for the specialised skill set involved in best quality foundry work. I've made up patterns, one time and another, and have had them cast by the folks who know the fine points of getting sound castings. There is quite a bit to know about sprues, risers, and gating, to be certain of a casting free from porosity, and true to pattern.

(yes, I've done a little bit of casting, but only on a 'playing in the sand-box' level, doing small ornamental brass castings for amusement....a very different level, that, from those who do best quality industrial foundry work in the various bronzes)

Re your Wliton vise swivel binders.......i'd think that one of the high-strength bronzes should be quite adequate for the purpose, so if your local foundry does only non-ferrous, no problem, tho the metal is 'not cheap'. Since one side of the part is flat, you could readily make up an aluminium pattern with your CNC mill, suitably dimensioned for shrink, of course, which the foundry workers could screw down to a match-plate.

For low-volume production, I'd think it cost-effective to cast them solid, then do the square holes by drilling, and following the drill with a square broach.
Any ordinary light press will drive a 3/8 or 1/2" broach in a bronze, no problem, but one must take care to keep the broach in alignment with the work.

Alternatively, you could have core-prints on your pattern, and make up a suitable core-box for moulding little square-tipped cores.....but I think you'd get a better casting by running it solid.

cheers

Carla
 

wjamyers

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
361
Location
Falls Church, VA, USA
WJA: happy to see you got that REED 104.5 and also very happy you like it. i had a good feeling you'd like a REED a lot better than the other vise you were looking at.

take a peak at the vises and grinders stands thread and if you might be able to put a hitch mount on front and sides of your work bench you'll be able to have access like a swivel and also be able to remove the vise when it might be in the way.

here's the link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252799

here's a picture of a hitch mounted vise i had handy in case you are not sure what i'm talking about.

WELL DONE SIR and hope it didn't break the bank too bad to pick up your new almost 100 year old REED.

Thanks again for your amazing help. Considering I bought this at the bottom of your recommended range and it turns smoothly and needs no repair work, I think I lucked out and have a very solid investment.

I'm going to mount this on the corner of my bench for now so I'll have 270 degree access to it but i'll be lurking here for ideas most definitely. I really want to see this vise looking shiny and new, I think that would be incredible.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,009
Location
Pacific Northwest
WJ: i like your spirit and happy to help you find something that will last you a lifetime. personally i'd just clean it up and put some new grease on the screw and maybe some oil or a little grease on the slide. then a couple coats of BLO and BOB'S YOUR UNCLE.

here's my Reed 4c that another member restored for me and even though i could have picked any color i asked if he wouldn't mind putting on a few coats of BLO (boilded linseed oil). he did and i love it and i think your Reed 104.5 would look equally as good. here's a few pictures of my Reed 4c before and after.

of course we have an unwritten rule here unless you are restoring for a collectible that it's YOUR VISE AND YOUR COLOR so you do as you like.

again WELL DONE!
 

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racinfarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Messages
2,155
Location
Minnesota/Utah
OK vise experts of GJ - I'm in the market for a good medium duty use for a bench vise - mostly snowmobile/lawn more stuff.

Would this be a good deal for about $65 + 7.375% tax?

Record No3 Made in England (SO 3 is casted into it).

IMG_20170426_1521329871_zps7ca6p79z.jpg


IMG_20170426_1521058221_zpspwmhbq4x.jpg
 

trijeff

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Messages
1,359
Location
Northern Cali
The model, yes (which is SQ, not SO, btw). But that particular vise, no - the dynamic jaw tower is broken behind the jaw, look for the crack.
 

scooternut

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2013
Messages
684
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Re: I bought my first vise!!

I managed to pick this up after the seller dropped the price!

ReedVintageVise by wjamyers, on Flickr

It's much bigger than I thought it would be. I'm a total noob, obviously. This weekend I will calibrate my torque wrench in style (not hanging it off a lug nut, lol)

The action on this bad boy is smooooooth, the jaws look almost new. I'm thinking it's a prime candidate for a restoration.


Thank you so much for your help, drivesitfar!

*heads over to the VISE REPAIR 101 thread*

Great job! Glad someone on here got it. I swear I was gonna ride my Harley 4 hours to get it next chance that I got!
 

datsbooksleia

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2010
Messages
65
Genlemen,

I am trying to sell my Chas Parker 974 1/2 on Craigslist but not sure what to price it at. Any idea? See pictures below
 

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454ragtop

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Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
5,011
Location
Carver, MA
Genlemen,

I am trying to sell my Chas Parker 974 1/2 on Craigslist but not sure what to price it at. Any idea? See pictures below

Hard to tell, is there something going on around the jaws? Can you get a better pic of that area? I'd spend some time straightening the handles, it screams abuse. I can straighten them in a couple minutes with a hammer. Also, where roughly are you located, prices vary across the US.
 

ALLFAST

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
1,233
Location
Northern California
I know this is difficult without seeing the vise in person, but can anyone say roughly how old this record no.3 might be ?

Thanks,

Shawn
 

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drivesitfar

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Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,009
Location
Pacific Northwest
AF: i was going to say 50's or early 60's, but the guys from across the pond and up in Canada know the Record vice's history better. looks nice and i like old English made Record vices.

Dats: it's a later Parker when Union was closing down their product line and it's got the cheaper jaws. i used to find them all day long for $50 and less up here, but not so much anymore. since your vise was made in the 1950's and it looks pretty decent i'd straighten the handles like 454 mentioned with a press or hammer and try $75 and take $50 if somebody offers nicely. we are not a big fan of pricing vises for members cause there are so many of us wanting to buy an extra vise or two, but you did ask nicely so i hope this helps. VISES tends to buy every vise in your state so that will help with the sale cause i doubt he'll buy this one, but there isn't a lot to choose from when i hear from other members in your area.

good luck
 

VISEs

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2016
Messages
374
AF: i was going to say 50's or early 60's, but the guys from across the pond and up in Canada know the Record vice's history better. looks nice and i like old English made Record vices.



Dats: it's a later Parker when Union was closing down their product line and it's got the cheaper jaws. i used to find them all day long for $50 and less up here, but not so much anymore. since your vise was made in the 1950's and it looks pretty decent i'd straighten the handles like 454 mentioned with a press or hammer and try $75 and take $50 if somebody offers nicely. we are not a big fan of pricing vises for members cause there are so many of us wanting to buy an extra vise or two, but you did ask nicely so i hope this helps. VISES tends to buy every vise in your state so that will help with the sale cause i doubt he'll buy this one, but there isn't a lot to choose from when i hear from other members in your area.



good luck



I think I'll buy it just because I wouldn't want to change what people are saying about me! Ha! I buy vises from all over the USA.


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KMScott

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,641
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Hi, Kevin,
snip
(yes, I've done a little bit of casting, but only on a 'playing in the sand-box' level, doing small ornamental brass castings for amusement....a very different level, that, from those who do best quality industrial foundry work in the various bronzes)

Re your Wliton vise swivel binders.......i'd think that one of the high-strength bronzes should be quite adequate for the purpose, so if your local foundry does only non-ferrous, no problem, tho the metal is 'not cheap'. Since one side of the part is flat, you could readily make up an aluminium pattern with your CNC mill, suitably dimensioned for shrink, of course, which the foundry workers could screw down to a match-plate.

For low-volume production, I'd think it cost-effective to cast them solid, then do the square holes by drilling, and following the drill with a square broach.
Any ordinary light press will drive a 3/8 or 1/2" broach in a bronze, no problem, but one must take care to keep the broach in alignment with the work.

Alternatively, you could have core-prints on your pattern, and make up a suitable core-box for moulding little square-tipped cores.....but I think you'd get a better casting by running it solid.

cheers

Carla

Thanks Carla, I am going to explore casting and will post my progress. This process can not be as difficult as injection molds. I am excited.
 

KMScott

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Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,641
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
OK I need help. This is the third time I tried to have success at electrolysis with the same results. I used this website's description for creating my set up. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I welded up a 3/4 diameter rebar frame that fit in this trash can. I also welded a chain to the bar that hangs the workpiece. I used the washing soda recommended and about a cup per 5 gallons. This static support was in for 12 hours using my 200 amp charger at the highest setting. If this is my result then I am doing something wrong. The negative and positive connections do not touch each other. Can anyone see a problem with my setup? Is my battery charger no good, it charges my batteries fine. It did strip some paint off but left more rust then when I started. Thanks in advance.
 

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454ragtop

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
5,011
Location
Carver, MA
OK I need help. This is the third time I tried to have success at electrolysis with the same results. I used this website's description for creating my set up. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I welded up a 3/4 diameter rebar frame that fit in this trash can. I also welded a chain to the bar that hangs the workpiece. I used the washing soda recommended and about a cup per 5 gallons. This static support was in for 12 hours using my 200 amp charger at the highest setting. If this is my result then I am doing something wrong. The negative and positive connections do not touch each other. Can anyone see a problem with my setup? Is my battery charger no good, it charges my batteries fine. It did strip some paint off but left more rust then when I started. Thanks in advance.
Kevin, I find that it's best to use an automotive battery to supply the power, and use the charger to charge the battery. Can be pretty much any old battery, even if it won't start a car any more. When you hook everything up you should see bubbles coming up from the part, indicating it is working.
HTH, Jim

edit to add, might try running a wire hooked to the neg down along side the chain and wrapped around the vise body. I've never used chain, seems like it should work, but maybe it's losing connection somehow. I use steel tie wire, or sometimes solid copper like out of Romex. Some say not to use copper, but I haven't had a problem.
 
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Bobioz1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2013
Messages
821
Location
Northern il. (For now)
OK I need help. This is the third time I tried to have success at electrolysis with the same results. I used this website's description for creating my set up. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I welded up a 3/4 diameter rebar frame that fit in this trash can. I also welded a chain to the bar that hangs the workpiece. I used the washing soda recommended and about a cup per 5 gallons. This static support was in for 12 hours using my 200 amp charger at the highest setting. If this is my result then I am doing something wrong. The negative and positive connections do not touch each other. Can anyone see a problem with my setup? Is my battery charger no good, it charges my batteries fine. It did strip some paint off but left more rust then when I started. Thanks in advance.

Try bolting the chain to the vise. It Probly had a poor connection to the vise.
 

trijeff

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Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Messages
1,359
Location
Northern Cali
Kevin, great setup. Make sure that you grind/wheel away to bare metal on the vise, the layer of gunk/paint/ rust will block the process. Just a small area where the negative electrode connected piece will attach to the vise. I typ use wire from the electrode to the vise, you can snug it up real tight like a twist tie and you only have to grind/wheel a small area, usually on the edges and just surrounding where the wire really catches. 200 amps should be cooking that thing fast.
 

KMScott

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Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,641
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Thanks Guys, I'll try again tomorrow, I have bolted to the workpiece before. No mater what I try I get the same results. I will use a battery, get a better hookup and clean the new rebar for the next go around. How long should this take? 1/2 day yesterday and cooked all day today, getting bubbles. Could I be using to much washing soap? I'll keep playing. I have many vises to clean and this would speed up my restoring. It is just funny how I get the same results every time I try this method. I have a big plastic container that will fit my 8 inchers but gotta figure this out. Thanks guys.
 

VISEs

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2016
Messages
374
OK I need help. This is the third time I tried to have success at electrolysis with the same results. I used this website's description for creating my set up. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp



I welded up a 3/4 diameter rebar frame that fit in this trash can. I also welded a chain to the bar that hangs the workpiece. I used the washing soda recommended and about a cup per 5 gallons. This static support was in for 12 hours using my 200 amp charger at the highest setting. If this is my result then I am doing something wrong. The negative and positive connections do not touch each other. Can anyone see a problem with my setup? Is my battery charger no good, it charges my batteries fine. It did strip some paint off but left more rust then when I started. Thanks in advance.



IMG_8018.JPG

I recommend making your connections with alligator style clips. I keep something cooking in this set up I have here almost constantly.

The other product that I have amazing results with is evaporustIMG_0236.JPG



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mlisac

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
75
Location
NW Missouri
I need advice. I picked up a Reed No. 1c. Where do I find out how old it is? I bought it to sell, but after working with it, I think I might keep it. If I do, I have to sell something else, probably my Craftsman 5191. I didn't think I'd ever sell the Craftsman, but the Reed is pretty stout. And it's a swivelin' b@stard to boot.
 

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CrotalusAtrox

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Joined
Mar 5, 2016
Messages
796
Location
The Great Southwest
Thanks Guys, I'll try again tomorrow, I have bolted to the workpiece before. No mater what I try I get the same results. I will use a battery, get a better hookup and clean the new rebar for the next go around. How long should this take? 1/2 day yesterday and cooked all day today, getting bubbles. Could I be using to much washing soap? I'll keep playing. I have many vises to clean and this would speed up my restoring. It is just funny how I get the same results every time I try this method. I have a big plastic container that will fit my 8 inchers but gotta figure this out. Thanks guys.

The higher carbon content in your sacrificial anoid seems to work best for me also I use copper wire to connect my pieces I have had some decent success. The washing soda content shouldn't affect it to much your just make the water more conductive
 
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VISEs

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Joined
Jul 25, 2016
Messages
374
IMG_0976.JPGIMG_0966.JPG

Look at what this goofball wrote to me in an eBay message.


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KMScott

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,641
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
IMG_8018.JPG

I recommend making your connections with alligator style clips. I keep something cooking in this set up I have here almost constantly.

The other product that I have amazing results with is evaporust

Thanks Vises, I'll try alligator style clips, are these the same ones you hold your, oh better stop there, I do live in Colorado. Lets catch up one day.
 

ganymede

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
2,332
Location
New England
I need advice. I picked up a Reed No. 1c. Where do I find out how old it is? I bought it to sell, but after working with it, I think I might keep it. If I do, I have to sell something else, probably my Craftsman 5191. I didn't think I'd ever sell the Craftsman, but the Reed is pretty stout. And it's a swivelin' b@stard to boot.

I believe the pancake style hub makes it after 1940 .
Markings on the side can narrow it down.
 

spillwayman2011

New member
Joined
Apr 26, 2017
Messages
1
Location
Northwest Georgia USA
Good Day Gents
Newb to GJ and the Wilton Vise .Did not know what I was buying yet came home from trade day flea market yesterday with my first vise.
after finding this forum and thread I discovered I had acquired a Wilton 121091 Flip Grip vise
It needs work but from what I have learned from you gents, getting her lookin sharp and up and running can be done.
all day today looking /reading (mostly on GJ). I can not find specs on replacement jaws and where to purchase them: any help would be much appreciated
thanks in advance for any helpful info.
spillwayman 2011
 

oldldh

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
3,700
Location
Fairhope, AL
This process can not be as difficult as injection molds. I am excited.

Ah, Kevin, my friend...

Into such abysses have I fallen...

After uttering just those words...

"Hell, it can't be that hard....."

Famous last words...

The problem begins when you have a reputation for accomplishing "the impossible/really difficult/beyond our capability" type problems...I, and my minions, had that kind of rep when I was in the Air Force..."My Radio Maintenance Shop can fix anything, Colonel..."...So there I am, drinking a cold one, with the 1st Sergeant, when the phone rings..."I'm in the Officer's Club, with the Wing Commander, and the score board's not working at the football stadium...said my Sqdn Commander..."I told him, you guys can fix "anything"...By kickoff, tonight, would be good..."...And he hung up...

The 1st Sergeant and I hopped in my pickup, charged over to the football stadium, and found a broken RF cable...Fixed it...Heroes, again...Yeah!!!!

However, casting is a somewhat "dark science"...I grew up in Birmingham, and there had to have been hundreds of foundries and forges in that town...they could make anything...from cast iron pipe to parts for the Saturn Moon Missions...But, I have no idea how they did it...

When you become a "Galactic Guru of things Molten", lets cast up a Craftsman 5199 6" Vise...:thumbup:

It can't be that difficult.........:evil:
 

FMC1959

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Messages
2,317
Location
Montreal, Canada / Upstate NY
I have often seen 6a's for sale and many on this thread have posted pics of theirs. The 4a is more rare, but seen the odd one for sale. The 10a, never knew it existed till Vises post and I have seen a few Emmett brochures that list the 4 & 6.

I can why Vises wants it, and I can see someone owning one asking a premium, but $3850 is crazy overpriced, especially if what davethorik says about a weld repair being the case. I saw his other items and yes, the vises are overpriced.

Some people learn over time that if they truly want to sell, they need to be realistic with their pricing....the offers he gets should make him understand. Then there are others who never learn.

I always thought eBay should charge some kind of minimum to stop people from listing stuff at unrealistic prices for years on end.
 

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,539
Location
East Bay SFO
Wow, almost crapped my pants when I read the CL listing title ...

"Antique? Prentiss Bulldog Vise Model #58 - $180"

A P58 for $180?? Yes please!

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/6105947684.html

Spolier Alert: it's not a 58, but rather a 53 :(

yeah, I saw the same ad earlier tonight and had a similar response. After shaking fingers scrolled down and enlarged the photo, I too saw the numbers 53 instead of 58.
:mad:
 
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