120v to driveway gates

[Jeff Scott]

Hey guys,
On my upcoming shop build I would like to dedicate one circuit off the breaker panel and bury some 10/2 UF from the shop to the front gates. It's a 300 ft run and the reason I'm going with 10/2 is to try to overcome some voltage drop. I plan to use the electricity on a gate opener and light posts on either side of the gate.

How does this sound and what type of waterproof box would you terminate the outlets in on the gate side. I'd like something I can put a minimum of 3 duplex outlets in.

Thoughts?

Jeff

 

[tyme2par4]

There aren't a whole lot of 3 gang or larger outdoor boxes out there, and even fewer 3 gang outdoor covers. I think it would be a lot easier to use 2, 2 gang boxes.

 

[theoldwizard1]

10/2 copper @ 300' will give you about an 8-9% voltage drop when pulling 15A. Lights won't care, but motors might !

6 gauge aluminum URD triplex will cost less and have less voltage drop. Check prices here.

There aren't a whole lot of 3 gang or larger outdoor boxes out there, and even fewer 3 gang outdoor covers. I think it would be a lot easier to use 2, 2 gang boxes.

CONCUR !

 

[ard]

1. RUN CONDUIT!!!!!

2. Mount a 6x6x4 box, fixed waterproof cover. From that you can run whatever receptacles you need. Having a decent size box will let you make future connections, mount remotes, stuff, etc that you might need for gate control, lights, etc. What do you need 3 duplex outlets FOR, anyway?

3. I've wired my share of gates, and nothing I put at the end of a gate 'plugs in'


Box like this:

You run loops of seal tight out the bottom to the gate operator, maybe a run of conduit over to the lights, etc.

Having all connections buried in a 2 or 3 gang receptacle box with outlets in the way will be a total PITA.

IMO

 

[ddawg16]

Concur on the conduit....and upsize it....easier to pull the wire....and you have room in case you want to add more.

While you're at it....maybe run a second conduit.....you might want to have a camera out there.

 

[alfredeneuman]

10/2 copper @ 300' will give you about an 8-9% voltage drop when pulling 15A. Lights won't care, but motors might !

NEMA (The National Electrical Manufacturer's Association) recommends a maximum of 10% voltage drop for motors, so 8-9% meets their recommendation

 

[ard]

I've run some voltage drops...300 feet is quite a bit. You can go 285 feet with #10 and get 6 amps. SIX.

I suggest running 1 inch conduit, then when you get to dealing with gates, operators, all that stuff, you can size the conductor for the load. Until you know what operator (motor) you will install, you are guessing.

Let's not be "Two years ago I ran 300 feet of #10, but now my gate operator doesn't work right"

 

[sberry]

I got 1 250 ft of 12, nothing I ever plugged in to it didn't work. Only trouble I ever had with 200 ft circuits was welding from them with Maxstar, turn it up past 70 or so and trip a breaker.

 

[Jeff Scott]

1. RUN CONDUIT!!!!!

2. Mount a 6x6x4 box, fixed waterproof cover. From that you can run whatever receptacles you need. Having a decent size box will let you make future connections, mount remotes, stuff, etc that you might need for gate control, lights, etc. What do you need 3 duplex outlets FOR, anyway?

3. I've wired my share of gates, and nothing I put at the end of a gate 'plugs in'


Box like this:

You run loops of seal tight out the bottom to the gate operator, maybe a run of conduit over to the lights, etc.

Having all connections buried in a 2 or 3 gang receptacle box with outlets in the way will be a total PITA.

IMO

Thanks! That box looks like what I need.

10/2 copper @ 300' will give you about an 8-9% voltage drop when pulling 15A. Lights won't care, but motors might !

6 gauge aluminum URD triplex will cost less and have less voltage drop. Check prices here.



CONCUR !

Thanks for the tip on the wire. That seems like a good price. I like the idea of bigger wire on that run. You never know what I might want to plug in there some day.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Many gate openers actually run off a 12V battery so all the AC power needs to do is run a small charger. If you go that route and use LED lights, the AC load will be very small.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Hard to know what the voltage drop would be for the OP without knowing what the specific load is...

 

[ard]

Hard to know what the voltage drop would be for the OP without knowing what the specific load is...

Totally agree. Which is why laying 1" conduit would let him get the project closed and let him size (and buy) the wire once he know what is getting installed!


300 ft of 1" conduit will cost $100.

 

[Jeff Scott]

Hard to know what the voltage drop would be for the OP without knowing what the specific load is...

And that is true. Frankly, other than two 100 watt lights, a gate operator transformer and maybe a camera, I'm not sure. Those items are all fairly low amperage. I suppose I'm planning for the eventual unknown.

Totally agree. Which is why laying 1" conduit would let him get the project closed and let him size (and buy) the wire once he know what is getting installed!


300 ft of 1" conduit will cost $100.

Agreed. I still have some time to dwell on it. Good suggestion, thanks.

 

[Jeff Scott]

Many gate openers actually run off a 12V battery so all the AC power needs to do is run a small charger. If you go that route and use LED lights, the AC load will be very small.

True. And the one I'm looking at (Mighty Mule), does just that.

 

[kTHREE]

Please run some Cat6 out to your gate as well. Your future self will love you when you go to automate your gate or add a security camera. In fact make it two pairs cat6 and some RG6 just to cover it.

 

[Norcal]

Have not heard much good about Mighty Mule, might be worth checking out more before buying then make the plunge, there was a thread in Free Parking about MM actuaters being prone to breaking.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...&highlight=mighty+mule+gate+openers&showall=1

I got a lot of hits using "mighty mule gate openers" as the search here on GJ. Was thinking about them myself.

 

[Jeff Scott]

Please run some Cat6 out to your gate as well. Your future self will love you when you go to automate your gate or add a security camera. In fact make it two pairs cat6 and some RG6 just to cover it.

Sounds like good advice. Thank you.

Have not heard much good about Mighty Mule, might be worth checking out more before buying then make the plunge, there was a thread in Free Parking about MM actuaters being prone to breaking.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...&highlight=mighty+mule+gate+openers&showall=1

I got a lot of hits using "mighty mule gate openers" as the search here on GJ. Was thinking about them myself.

Looking at other brands now. Thanks for the tip.

 

[sberry]

Got to love it, starts off with a gate and 2 led lights, now we need to wire it for a machine shop,,, just in case.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Got to love it, starts off with a gate and 2 led lights, now we need to wire it for a machine shop,,, just in case.

Proper Planning Preventing Piss Poor Performance?

 

[Syberia]

I have #8 running the 250' to my gate. No opener yet but it does power my air compressor (15 amps) fine.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Marctrees]

Really might be a good situation to look at 12vdc opener as mentioned above, but w integral solar charger, all at road.

Also somekinda maybe solar lights, eliminating all conduit, trenching, wire, etc costs.

Just an idea.

I know the gate opener solar is good idea, but not sure about the solar for lights iffn you want them bright and alll night. Marc