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Recommended switches for vintage machines?

Locker537

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I'm looking for on/off switches for a few vintage machines. I've done a bunch of searching, but couldn't find a thread about this.

I can always get some simple modern toggle switches, but was thinking the crew here would have some great recommendations. :cool:

Thanks in advance!
 
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Locker537

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Need to know what kind of machine....

I should have shared that! In this case, it's two different Craftsman Model 100 Drill Presses and a Delta Rockwell Bandsaw from the late 1940s.

All three of these machines did not come with any switch originally. For two of them, the previous owner wired up some simple switches with junction boxes and basically light switches.

All three of these machine have external motors, making the type of machine kinda irrelevant.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I would not try to be period correct when it comes to adding a switch. Some machines should have a switch that won't allow the machine to start if the power has been interrupted. I forget the name of those (might be called magnetic switch). Otherwise, a push button switch with a guard that opens the switch and protects the "ON" from being accidentally operated is a very good idea.

d3659be8c12d2727122d38661a82e94f.jpg


I tend to use something like this:

images
 
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454ragtop

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For the bandsaw, a toggle switch with a hole in the toggle to accept a push pull rod was common back in the day, think it may have even been an option or accessory. Might poke around here, lots of pics http://www.vintagemachinery.org/ Unsure on the DP's, although the same type would work for those as well.
 

Carla

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I'm looking for on/off switches for a few vintage machines. I've done a bunch of searching, but couldn't find a thread about this.

I can always get some simple modern toggle switches, but was thinking the crew here would have some great recommendations. :cool:

Thanks in advance!

I'll concur with 454's recommendation that you take the time to go through the old catalogues available on the vintagemachinery internet site. In some of them, such as those of the Delta Co., you will find the motors and switches listed separately in the back pages. In others, the illustrations will show the original switch mountings.

If you are working with the common varieties of 'light' machinery, which use 1/4 to 3/4hp motors on 'household' 115VAC single-phase, you'll find that many, maybe most, of them used a simple two-pole, single-throw toggle switch. Its possible to find new-old-stock replacement switches for sale on the internet, but do check the amp (load) rating relative to the motor with which it will be used.

The switch mounting arrangements varied with the different manufacturers, sometimes being a formed sheet-metal enclosure, sometimes a drilled hole in a machine casting. The earlier (1930's-'50's) Delta Co. motors had their switches mounted on the motor itself, to be operated by a control rod.

For the smaller of 'industrial grade' machinery, the most commonly used switch would be a press-button 'manual motor starter' or a 'magnetic starter' operated by a 'button station', which could either be incorporated in the switch enclosure, or have its own 'remote' enclosure.

A 'motor starter' differs from a common switch by having provision for 'drop-out' if the motor is over-loaded. This is done with 'heaters' of various amp ratings, which 'trip out' the switch if more than a specified amperage of power is drawn. A 'magnetic starter' also had provision for 'drop-out' if the line power was interrupted.

Use of a magstarter was a legal safety requirement in most industries, to prevent a machine from unexpectedly re-starting following a power interruption. (that said, two of the most popular light industrial machines, South Bend lathes, and Bridgeport vertical mills, were fitted with only a manual reversing switch when new)

cheers

Carla
 
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Locker537

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Messages
488
Location
Massachusetts
I would not try to be period correct when it comes to adding a switch. Some machines should have a switch that won't allow the machine to start if the power has been interrupted. I forget the name of those (might be called magnetic switch). Otherwise, a push button switch with a guard that opens the switch and protects the "ON" from being accidentally operated is a very good idea.

d3659be8c12d2727122d38661a82e94f.jpg


I tend to use something like this:

images

Zeke, I love that idea. Do you have a preferred place to buy those switches?
 
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Locker537

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Sep 25, 2016
Messages
488
Location
Massachusetts
I'll concur with 454's recommendation that you take the time to go through the old catalogues available on the vintagemachinery internet site. In some of them, such as those of the Delta Co., you will find the motors and switches listed separately in the back pages. In others, the illustrations will show the original switch mountings.

If you are working with the common varieties of 'light' machinery, which use 1/4 to 3/4hp motors on 'household' 115VAC single-phase, you'll find that many, maybe most, of them used a simple two-pole, single-throw toggle switch. Its possible to find new-old-stock replacement switches for sale on the internet, but do check the amp (load) rating relative to the motor with which it will be used.

The switch mounting arrangements varied with the different manufacturers, sometimes being a formed sheet-metal enclosure, sometimes a drilled hole in a machine casting. The earlier (1930's-'50's) Delta Co. motors had their switches mounted on the motor itself, to be operated by a control rod.

For the smaller of 'industrial grade' machinery, the most commonly used switch would be a press-button 'manual motor starter' or a 'magnetic starter' operated by a 'button station', which could either be incorporated in the switch enclosure, or have its own 'remote' enclosure.

A 'motor starter' differs from a common switch by having provision for 'drop-out' if the motor is over-loaded. This is done with 'heaters' of various amp ratings, which 'trip out' the switch if more than a specified amperage of power is drawn. A 'magnetic starter' also had provision for 'drop-out' if the line power was interrupted.

Use of a magstarter was a legal safety requirement in most industries, to prevent a machine from unexpectedly re-starting following a power interruption. (that said, two of the most popular light industrial machines, South Bend lathes, and Bridgeport vertical mills, were fitted with only a manual reversing switch when new)

cheers

Carla

Thanks for the thoughts Carla! It gives a good checklist to work from.
 

Larryjones

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Oct 11, 2015
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WV
The older equipment in shops I worked at seemed to usually have Allen Bradley switches. There has to be a lot of the older ones still out there to find.
 

454ragtop

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Speaking of AB switches, I have this one listed for sale over on OWWM if it's something you can use.
 

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rlitman

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Long Island
After a little more looking, I'm going to go with a few of those safety style switches. I found the ones on Rockler for $40 each.

Any idea if they can be had cheaper from a retailer?

They're cheaper on eBay, but you may need to do some customization and adda a box to make it work. The Rockler parts will be easier to work with.
 
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Locker537

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They're cheaper on eBay, but you may need to do some customization and adda a box to make it work. The Rockler parts will be easier to work with.

Yea, and for machines that already terminate as the male end of a outlet, I can just plug that into the switch box. Pretty convenient.
 

Zeeman

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Bartow County Georgia
Hey Locker, did you ever decide on a switch? I am trying to do something similar. I want to put a switch, new or vintage, on my band saw. Here's where I plan to put it.

 

Zeeman

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I've seen those, and would really like to have one, but I just can't justify the price. They are high in my opinion. If I could score a cheap one, I'd be on it like white on rice.
 

rsanter

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visalia ca
Do you want vintage? Correct? Or functional?
I have some of the cutler-hammer push button switches I could sell.
You can also use the mag start switch boxes as those will have a correct-ish appearance.
I have also just used commercial duty light switches for power tool switches and those have been fine

Bob
 

Shootinok

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Aug 16, 2016
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710
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Oklahoma USA
I put a foot switch on my drill press and really like it. Monetary switch so if my foot comes off the motor stops.
Some old industrial ones can be found for $25 - $50
New imports are only about $16
 
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catalytic

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Boston, Los Angeles, Cleveland
Finally -- a topic I know about!

First, what machines? It matters because small ~1hp and less machines can get manual starters, esp. if the motor has builtin protection and/or you aren't going to work it to death. Many machines in the '50's and '60's used Arrow Hart lightswitch style, which can handle 1.5hp or 2hp single phase 110v depending on the model. They look like this (Often seen with a cooler red badge):
$_58.JPG



I like this style on small machines. If you look around, you can find them for $20 with some frequency. They are still made I think, but by Crouse Hinds (and possibly in Mexico rather than USA).

Here are some more styles, including a Furnas model 44r reversing drum switch:
file.php


Pay attention to the NEMA size. I usually look for NEMA 1, which will do up to 1.5hp on 110v.

Furnas, Square D, Allen Bradley, Cutler Hammer, and others made similar manual motor starters, some with cool buttons instead of a lightswitch-like switch. You don't get any motor overload/burnout protection. Some newer motors have a rudimentary type of overload protection built in, so these motors are a better match for these manual starters.

Anything more than ~1hp should really have a mag starter, possibly with a remote switch to control it. Some people think every machine should have one, regardless of size, but they can be a bit large/cumbersome.

The general idea is that when you push "on" you energize an electromagnet, which magnetically pulls the contacts together you get power to the machine. If you push "off" or the power goes off, the magnet stops being energized and the circuit breaks. In other words, "on/off" is just a momentary low current switch that powers this electromagnet, and the electromagnet is the "real" switch that handles the large load of the motor. So, this gives you a ton of options for the actual on/off switch, as these are just momentary switches. This system is good because your machine won't restart unexpectedly when the power goes back on after an outage, and also, it can reliably turn off much larger motors. Also, mag starters let you install "heaters" inside, which monitor the current draw of the motor (a bit like a fuse or circuit breaker) and shut it down when you are overworking it so you don't fry your nice big motor.

Allen Bradley 609 is one of the industry standard mag starters, and you'll see various versions going back 70 years (earlier ones have rounder boxes). They have 3 letters after. The "A_ _" models are smaller (NEMA 0) and the "B_ _" models are larger (NEMA 1).

Allen Bradley 709 is similar, but usually used with a remote on/off low voltage control. Lots of cool/vintage looking ones are available, or use any pair of "normally open" and "normally closed" switches designed for low voltage control.

Here are a couple of control switches used to control a mag starter:
file.php


s-l300.jpg


Also, This is how the big mushroom switches on some industrial machines are wired, i.e. mushroom just controls the mag starter. Personally, I think this system is one of the safest possible, and is a sort of industrial version of the manual paddle switch someone posted above.

Search "Rees Mushroom Switch" on ebay for one classic version.

*Note: pictures linked are from ebay & owwm.org. OWWM has a few threads dedicated to coolest vintage switches -- may be worth a search!
 
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Lynden

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May 23, 2015
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673
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Southern California
After a little more looking, I'm going to go with a few of those safety style switches. I found the ones on Rockler for $40 each. Any idea if they can be had cheaper from a retailer?

I have a Rockler paddle switch on my table saw. I don't like the "ON" button. It's difficult to push. Try one out at a Rockler store before you buy. Also, I don't think you need a large paddle switch on a drill press or band saw. A smaller pull-on/push-off switch might work better.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...id=SPDxGPROD&gclid=CL__2PrRw9QCFYhsfgodfNEHwA

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3152...ool Supply&prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=G12#

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...jessem-05010?gclid=CLmp49zRw9QCFUGTfgodrwAPUQ
 
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