Help w HDPE water main

[josephny]

I need to run a below-frost-level water line from the town road to my garage (and several cottages), about 350 feet.

I've heard the HDPE is a great solution.

But I don't have the HDPE welding equipment and I can't find any definitive information on insert (barbed) fittings that will work.

I found an online source for 1.5" HDPE that is IPS (iron pipe size). And I see there are compression fittings but they are quite expensive (around $30/each).

Can anyone please let me know which HDPE to get (IPS, CTS, etc.) and the barbed fittings that will work? I'll need to reduce from 1.5" to 3/4" once back at the garage.

Thank you!

 

[GMCGarage]

I need to run a below-frost-level water line from the town road to my garage (and several cottages), about 350 feet.

I've heard the HDPE is a great solution.

But I don't have the HDPE welding equipment and I can't find any definitive information on insert (barbed) fittings that will work.

I found an online source for 1.5" HDPE that is IPS (iron pipe size). And I see there are compression fittings but they are quite expensive (around $30/each).

Can anyone please let me know which HDPE to get (IPS, CTS, etc.) and the barbed fittings that will work? I'll need to reduce from 1.5" to 3/4" once back at the garage.

Thank you!

What sort of pressure is the line at the road? 350' is a long run

 

[sberry]

I have a 400 ft run of 1 1/4 to the folks house, then 250 of inch to mine, can't tell that it's not next to the well.

 

[josephny]

What sort of pressure is the line at the road? 350' is a long run

I don't know, but the town engineer said that PE pipe capable of handling 160psi is fine.

 

[josephny]

I have a 400 ft run of 1 1/4 to the folks house, then 250 of inch to mine, can't tell that it's not next to the well.

Very nice to hear, thanks!

Is that HDPE pipe? What kind of connectors did you use?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I had to replace a section of waterline and used compression fittings. I recall they were expensive but I don't remember how much I paid.

 

[sberry]

400 ft steel, then 250 rolled poly.

 

[P Dubya]

I buy 500 foot rolls from my supplier.... No underground fittings that way.

 

[jp828108]

I can say don't use plastic barbed fittings. Someone fixed the waterline in my house (before I purchased it) and used those. They eventually broke and caused me to have to dig it up and find the leak. Used the expensive compression fittings to fix. Ended up having it leak again somewhere else, and that is when I decided to replace it because I had no idea how many shoddy patches existed. Bit the bullet, and replaced from the meter to a new shutoff valve in the house. Also included my own shut off by the meter. Ended up having a fair chunk of change, but hopefully I don't have any issues for the next 30 plus years.

 

[jp828108]

I buy 500 foot rolls from my supplier.... No underground fittings that way.

There will be fittings, it has to hook it into the meter, and it needs to branch out to multiple cottages.

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 for the compression fittings.

City just redid entire neighborhood with new water main and removed copper under street that fed houses. Blue poly was the new 1" sub pipe that gets me my water. All the guys need to connect was ratchet and socket.

No, No, NO to barb fittings along with the screw clamps . . . they WILL fail.

 

[pstnbly]

I can say don't use plastic barbed fittings. Someone fixed the waterline in my house (before I purchased it) and used those. They eventually broke and caused me to have to dig it up and find the leak. Used the expensive compression fittings to fix. Ended up having it leak again somewhere else, and that is when I decided to replace it because I had no idea how many shoddy patches existed. Bit the bullet, and replaced from the meter to a new shutoff valve in the house. Also included my own shut off by the meter. Ended up having a fair chunk of change, but hopefully I don't have any issues for the next 30 plus years.

^^^^^ This. Use brass or stainless barbs and heat the pipe before inserting. I would probably go with a 500' roll the stuff is cheap enough.

 

[Northislander]

I would use a coil of 1-1/2 dr11 Hdpe and Ford S71-153 brass municipal saddles 1-1/2 X 3/4. for any branches all you need is a drill and socket set

 

[josephny]

Thank you all so much!

I admit I am confused.

Yes to stainless barbed fittings or no?

Yes to compression or no?

Yes to HDPE SDR11?

Brass saddles look great, but how do I terminate/end the 1.5" pipe? I thought a fitting/reducer down to 3/4 would be appropriate?

 

[AnthonyJ124]

I used to sell HDPE for water applications when I was at a municipal supply house 10 years ago. I specialized in HDPE fusion and trained contractors on fusion techniques or would bid my fusion labor services per job. I dealt with a lot of subdivision work and used a lot of compression fittings for hdpe.

For CTS or IPS SDR11, standard practice for connections was always ford brass compression fittings and stainless inserts in the ID at all connections. Ford stainless branch saddles are acceptable. Ford makes HDPE specific stainless branch saddles, with or without epoxy coating, spend the extra for epoxy.

You'll be able to reduce from 1.5" to 3/4" with a brass fitting.

For poly "well pipe" barbed fittings are acceptable, but for a city water service with a long run and >1" pipe I would stick with CTS or IPS sized pipe in SDR-11 (160psi) and use compression fittings with id inserts (stiffeners).

My biggest recommendation to confirm details would be to call your local supply house and see what is typically used in your locale for residential service (CTS/IPS). Obviously either will work, but knowing what they stock OR that local contractors are typically using one or the other would be valuable.

As for price, I'd rather eat the $$$ in ford fittings than wonder if barbed fittings were the right call.

Who is doing the tap in the street? Do you need to supply the saddle, valves, and fittings for that connection and the meter connections? Typically you'll have a valve at the water main tap, then a valve and valve box at the curb ("curb stop") or off the street and then HDPE on to your meter and service connections. Most of the time whoever is doing the water main tap will supply the parts and valve for just the tap. If it's a ductile iron connection, they may thread the valve directly into the pipe, or use a tapping saddle.

This should give you a lot of information;
http://www.fordmeterbox.com/documents/flyers/ProdGuide_jpeg.pdf

 

[jp828108]

Thank you all so much!

I admit I am confused.

Yes to stainless barbed fittings or no?

Yes to compression or no?

Yes to HDPE SDR11?

Brass saddles look great, but how do I terminate/end the 1.5" pipe? I thought a fitting/reducer down to 3/4 would be appropriate?

I am no expert, but I would stay away from the barbed fittings. They will rely on a thin hose clamp to hold it. Granted the plastic fitting is what failed in my experience.

The expensive compression fittings with the inserts are what I used, and what everyone I talked to recommended. They were expensive, but are supposed to hold up. That is what the guy who put a new line in for my uncle used as well. And water lines are what this guy does for a living.

Its one thing to have a hose clamp on an accessible areas, but I felt like it was more piece of mind to use the compression fittings since they get buried below the frost line, and digging water line is not my idea of fun.

 

[josephny]

So I still haven't ordered anything because the more I read the more options I learn about.

I now have a basic understand of SDR vs. SIDR, CTS vs. IPS, etc.

Am I right that with SIDR pipe I can use barbed fittings?

I don't see either AY McDonald or Ford with SDR compression fittings. Am I missing it?

And it seems that SIDR HDPE is less expensive.

I was planning on using 1.5" from the meter to the main structure (400') and then 3/4" from the main structure to the other structures.

I also have a well that I was thinking of using 3/4 from.

Can someone please tell me what to order so I can trench this pipe in and make my yard nice?

Thanks!

 

[Mr onetwo]

Around here 1" 200 PSI CTS is the minimum size underground.I wouldn't use 3/4" for anything.

 

[Markfothebeast]

Harbor Freight apparently has a plastic "welder" set I'd heard. I had to fix a cracked HDPE washing machine part. I melted a basic 1-gallon milk jug (HDPE plastic) down into a small block and molded it with heat. Using a soldering iron, I fused it in place. This cost me zero dollars. That may not be appropriate in your application but it'd work.

I'd never heard of using a barbed fitting on a water main or any type of water line. That seems like a recipe for disaster. Especially on a big 1.5" line. Try a Menards "Quick Connect" or "Sharkbite" female x female reducer if you don't plan to purchase plumbing tools.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[josephny]

Okay, I've run out of time.

I'll use 1.5" main then 3/4 to each structure (4 cottages and a garage).

Using HDPE IPS with fusion socket welds (ordered a TK-300 welding kit).

Thank you all very much for your help!