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Hanging Hammock - Using posts

mossyoakglock

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Jun 12, 2011
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I wasn't sure where to put a question like this so please move if needed.

I have a hammock that I want to hang but the problem is that I don't have two trees close enough. I do have one large tree in a flowerbed that will work but I will need to use a post on the other end.

I haven't measured but I'm guessing the hammock end will be about 4-5' high so there will be some pull and possibly flexing.

Will a 4x4 post work and be strong enough and not flex or should I go up to a 6x6? How deep should I put the post? I was thinking about getting a 10' post and burying it roughly 3' and then cut of what is not needed.
 
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Kaizen

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I doubt 3' down will last for long. Even with concrete to top will lean in toward the swing. Not so much flexing but moving the soil. increasing to 6x6 I don't think will help. you need a guy on the other side of some kind or a 2x at the top of the post to the tree. I'm guessing 200 pounds on the swing and the movement of the swing back and forth.
 

steveo1o9

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I am planning on doing the exact same thing so I will be keeping an eye on this thread. I had planned to use a 4x4 on one side (because I have a few laying around), and a tree on the other. I alternatively was thinking of buying a 8' metal fence post and driving it in 4 ft or so. I personally would rather not use concrete because I don't want it to be that permanent.
 
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mossyoakglock

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I was hoping to not have to use a brace of some sort across the top to the tree but If I have to I will.
 

Throbbin Rods

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I picked up a real nice steel hammock frame at a yard sale for $10. We have used it for several years now. Non permanent and easy to move if so desired
 

Bojans

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Mar 18, 2008
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I did a ~ 3' deep hole with a large post hole driller, used 6x6 treated lumber and filled it full of concrete - not the post mix, in my experience that stuff never sets 100%. Been there for 5 years and I swear you couldn't pull it out with a dozer.
 
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mossyoakglock

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Do you remember what concrete you used? Was it the standard concrete mix (not the fast setting) or the high PSI concrete?
 

LeeG

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4x4 should be plenty strong. Depth is a bigger issue. Think of it like a corner post on a fence. Deeper is better. IMO, concrete is more problem than it is worth for this type of thing. Make the hole as close to the size of the post as possible, and tamp the fill dirt well as you back fill.
 

Bojans

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I just used the regular, cheapest bags I could find. I don't disagree that in the right type of soil you may be able to pound a large fence post in but with our soil you would never get the post pounded deep enough. And, if you are going to auger a hole, why not spend the extra $10 and 30 minutes to know it isn't going to move...
 

tymbo

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build a canopy between the posts to shade you from that awful sun! You can incorporate the bracing into the canopy to keep the posts vertical.
 

seanc_mt

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hammockforums.net

im an avid hanger and all your questions will be answered there.
 

Shiftless

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Since you say you don't want it too permanent, how about forgetting about vertical posts and put in angled posts to convert some of the tension that would otherwise tip the posts into compression forces which your 4x4s would easily handle.
Maybe build a base and not even dig any holes or mix any concrete?

How about something like this?
 

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kTHREE

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Dec 30, 2016
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MN
Would guy wires and screw in ground anchors be an acceptable compromise in addition to posts? Just an idea.
 

NYBODYMAN

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I had the same problem and ended up getting a metal framed one as well. I got it at Price Chopper for $50.
 

johnnyradiant

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Vancouver, BC
Good drain rock will hold the post and let water drain away from the post so it won't rot as fast underground and if you want to remove the post you could dig down below grade with out having to deal with the concrete and cut the 4X4 and backfill your hole.

I would put the posts in on an angle like Shiftless or I would get a frame like the link below at Lee Valley

http://www.leevalley.com/us/garden/page.aspx?p=10035&cat=2,40725,40739,10035
 

6768rogues

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Dig a wide hole. Attach a treated 2x6 perpendicular to your post (build a cross) a little bit below grade so the post has to push the 2x6 toward the hammock in order to move. Leave as much undisturbed soil as possible for the 2x6 to push on. The idea is that the more soil that has to be displaced for the post to move, the stronger it is.
 
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Git

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S Cal
I have been known to pitch my hammock in the garage upon occasion for a little afternoon siesta :)

Two walls or a center post and a couple of these 'hammock hooks' from Amazon do the trick. Do you have a wall or fence nearby that you can use for one end?
 

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Jazz1

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Dig a wide hole. Attach a treated 2x6 perpendicular to your post (build a cross) a little bit below grade so the post has to push the 2x6 toward the hammock in order to move. Leave as much undisturbed soil as possible for the 2x6 to push on. The idea is that the more soil that has to be displaced for the post to move, the stronger it is.

thats how we do it:rocker:
 

Bert_

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4x4 should be plenty strong. Depth is a bigger issue. Think of it like a corner post on a fence. Deeper is better. IMO, concrete is more problem than it is worth for this type of thing. Make the hole as close to the size of the post as possible, and tamp the fill dirt well as you back fill.

Not sure your telling the whole story? A corner post has to be braced, or it would lean over in a month.

I'm wondering if a 4X4 is a little thin. I'm not sure how high off the ground a hammock is usually hung, but it could create a lot of leverage. I suppose it would also depend on how tightly the hammock is hung, very loose and there would be less force pulling the posts in.

Can you tell I've never paid much attention to the few hammocks I've seen:D
 

mcisvenus

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Sep 29, 2022
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Can anyone tell me if you can use 2 3/8" 8-10' galvanized metal fence posts concreted in ground to support a hammock.
 

rlitman

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Maybe, for a short while. Chain link fence corner posts can expect quite a bit of fence tension, but I'd expect it to start to lean when your hammock gets real weight in it. Have you read the thread above? A galvanized steel CORNER post (not the thin line posts) should be as strong as the 4x4 example above, but expecting the soil alone to deal with the torque on the post may be unrealistic.

What's wrong with a steel hammock frame?
 

ycgoat

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I used 2" Galvanized Rigid Conduit for a Cedar swing (both posts connected at the top with a 2" RMC) 15 years ago and it is still in use. I used 6x6 treated lumber for a hammock about 3 years ago and still looks good too.
 

rlitman

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I used 2" Galvanized Rigid Conduit for a Cedar swing (both posts connected at the top with a 2" RMC) 15 years ago and it is still in use. I used 6x6 treated lumber for a hammock about 3 years ago and still looks good too.
That's a good point. If you're willing to connect the posts at the top, the galvanized corner posts would certainly work.
 
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