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Grease question

Coach James

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I have one grease gun and have it filled with NLGI No 2 grease, I think that what's it's called.

What about you folks? Anyone use one type for everything or do you have more than 1 type?

Coach
 
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bdog

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I use a moly grease for pins and bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc and then use non moly grease for bearings. Moly really does wonders to protect pins and bushings like on a backhoe vs a normal grease.
 

darkzero

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I've got a few of those mini 3oz grease guns filled with various greases. The one I use the most for non specific applications is the one filled with Super Lube.
 

Infinia

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Anyone use one type for everything

Yes the normal big tube, 'WM brand Marine' something or other.
my 4x4 drive shaft calls for 2 types but IMO using the wrong one more often is better than nothing. The smaller guns ive gotten rid off.
 

sumankumar

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Since there are different types of grease available in the market, then it is very simple to understand that there will be scenario when one is better that other for a given application. Just to get some primary information, the article at Wiki on "NLGI consistency number" is very useful.
Suman
 

crackit

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I use a moly grease for pins and bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc and then use non moly grease for bearings. Moly really does wonders to protect pins and bushings like on a backhoe vs a normal grease.

Yep. I have a grease gun filled with moly for most purposes, but for bearings I use a plastic tub of non-moly.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Why not use moly grease for wheel bearings?

I get one grease, from brake pads to wheel bearings to suspension bits to pins and linkages. EP Moly.

EDIT: Assuming the Moly grease in question is rated for wheel bearings, obviously.
 
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gungatim

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west mich
generally #2 grease in the guns for most work, but food grade #1 for my meat grinder and other equipment.
 

DFB

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I have one gun loaded with moly for the compact tractor loader pins and bushings and do all the front end/steering greasing with that too.

A second gun holds a blue/green marine type high temp wheel bearing rated grease and I use that with my wheel bearing packer and to grease on the neck and swing arm bearing on my motorcycle

I have mini gun with plain ol #2 amber grease for greasing the bar sprockets on my chainsaws.

I never did care for red grease often cakes up too much on me and blocks the fittings

But for most routine equipment greasing down at the farm its just plain ol' multi purpose grease. Cheap by the case :D


I have a new cordless grease gun I often think about loading up with something different...still deciding on that. Synthetic grease can be dang expensive!

Numerous fittings to me that's important 90's, flex hose,and needles
 

sberry

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For coach 1 can do it all, a wheel bearing/chassis grease. I also use red and black but have farm equipment and brutal gravel roads. You can tell the moly really helps hold it in.
 

48548

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I switched from mobil 1 red grease to valvoline moly synthetic and I use it in all my ball joints and front end stuff and UCA bushings... Got tired of the red lube of love leaking out everywhere.
 

mroneeyedboh

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In the end some grease is better than no grease. I went crazy trying to find a grease for this, for that... as I said something is better than nothing.
 

rustbucket5

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if i had a choice (i dont because im not the boss so i use what im told) it would be moly grease for everything but wheel bearings and u-joints which would get a synthetic NLGI-2 lithium based grease. at work we use pennzoil 707 for everything, seems to work fine for what we put it in but moly grease just performs so much better for longer
 

MO-Iron

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NLGI 2 for u-joints and bearings
NGIL 2 for loader pins and bushings
303 magnum for things like our livestock working facilities and other non critical applications (an inexpensive red grease)
 

crackit

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Why not use moly grease for wheel bearings?

I get one grease, from brake pads to wheel bearings to suspension bits to pins and linkages. EP Moly.

EDIT: Assuming the Moly grease in question is rated for wheel bearings, obviously.

I guess I'm just old school; I was taught long ago to use lithium-based grease for wheel bearings, and have always done so. I admit I haven't kept up with modern grease innovations, but the old ways have always worked for me.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... I'm a equipment Mechanic,....
I carry my truck grease gun filled with Napa chassis grease,....

My other grease gun is fulla Quicksilver 2-4-C Mercruiser grease for certain boat apps,...
It's teflon grease for pin bushin's,...
They say rollers or balls slide, rather than turn with it,....
 
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Superbec

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I got crazy on grease some time ago .
Now I have , ceramic,copper,aluminium,moly,teflon, some crazy expensive Molykote grease for BMW drive shafts , racing grease (that's most used, higher melting point) , silicone grease( for rebuilding brake calipers), dielectric grease for battery terminals and contacts....

just yesterday I found a few cans I forgot I even had MOs2 and other I don't know what's for.
 

rlitman

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I have Mobil 1 grease in my grease gun. I've had issues with it losing prime and oozing out of the gun, but since I've been storing it with the pressure relieved it has been acting better. I've also learned that you can't use the gun in cold weather or it loses prime (it is just too thick to return to the piston).
I keep looking at other greases, but keep coming back to Mobil 1. Just the other day, I was looking to see if there was anything better for all metal ball joints, and I was not able to find anything with a better 4-ball scar rating (the best test I could find to give an idea of how fast you see wear on metal to metal sliding surfaces).

I see so many people recommending moly grease for places where it makes no sense. Molybdenum disulfide will plate itself onto steel, and can help in a steel on steel sliding connection that is not well greased (it buys you a little protection after the grease is gone), but in most cases the steel is not the part that wears out first (i.e. steel wearing on bronze, or plastic or sintered metal, a hard chrome or nitrided surface, etc.), and in those cases moly can actually accelerate wear and corrosion. The plating action is a big problem on bearings, because it can make a smooth bearing lumpy, and one with a proper fit become too tight. This leads to bearings sliding, and premature failure.

For places where moly is appropriate, I have dry moly that I can add to whatever lubricant I want.

I have silicone dielectric grease, which is used on electrical connections and non-moving o-rings (like seals on headlamp bulbs). I also use this on some brake parts.

Then, I have spray lithium grease, for places where it is just easier to lube with a spray.

Finally, I have tubes of Krytox, for situations where nothing else will do. I find it especially great on sliding o-rings.
 
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MoonRise

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rlitman

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Infinia

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I see so many people recommending moly grease for places where it makes no sense.
most folks that say that are using Lithium / Moly where the Moly D. is a low percent additive part. so not strictly a pure Moly D. lube. check MSDS
IMO a little extra insurance for a buck a tube more.
Q. What about the reverse E.g. the risks of using a GP Lithium grease on a prop shaft bearing where its calls for Moly Lube Vs just using Moly everywhere? OR I have one gun what grease should I buy.
 
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48548

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This is what I switched to from mobil 1. I assume it is fine for ball joints and bushings, but I could be wrong.

Valvoline SynPower Grease is an excellent heavy-duty and multi-purpose automotive and industrial extreme pressure
grease. It consists of a lithium complex thickener in synthetic base oil and is fortified with molybdenum disulfide and other
quality additives. It provides protection from high loads and may be used over a wide temperature range.
Valvoline SynPower Grease is recommended for use in disc brake wheel bearings, all-purpose chassis lubrication,
suspension systems, universal joints, steering linkage, and constant velocity joint applications.
Character: Molybdenum Disulfide, Rust and Oxidation Inhibited, Extreme Pressure Fortified
Approvals/Performance Levels
NLGI GC/LB, MACK GC-G
Typical Properties
NLGI Grade 2
Thickener Type Lithium Complex
Color and Texture Gray-Black / Buttery
ASTM Worked Penetration @ 77° F 275
ASTM Dropping Pt, °F 500 min.
ASTM D-1743 Rust Test Pass
Weld Pt., kg 315
Load Wear Index, kg 60 min.
Vis @ 100°C (cSt) 12.0
Viscosity Index 135
Pour Point °C -20
Timken OK Load, lbs 60 min.
 

rlitman

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This is what I switched to from mobil 1. I assume it is fine for ball joints and bushings, but I could be wrong.

Valvoline SynPower Grease...

It should be. It also has a rating for CV use, which the Mobil 1 does not.
Both are top shelf products.
 

48548

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It should be. It also has a rating for CV use, which the Mobil 1 does not.
Both are top shelf products.

Glad I switched and it was a little cheaper... It still oozes like the mobil1, but at least it is clear when it does that and only from the gun from what I can tell. I cleaned it up a few times and it seems to be fine. I really like this stuff much better.
 

rlitman

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Glad I switched and it was a little cheaper... It still oozes like the mobil1, but at least it is clear when it does that and only from the gun from what I can tell. I cleaned it up a few times and it seems to be fine. I really like this stuff much better.

Ugh. If it still oozes, I guess I'll keep using the Mobil 1 for now. I don't mind the fact that the ooze is red, and I kind of like the fact that the fresh grease is a bright color that makes it easier to see when old grease is pushed out (in places where that is important).

I've heard good things about Lukas Red-n-tacky, but others say it oozes too.

More important to me is my Lock-n-lube zerk chuck than the grease itself. That thing has saved me a lot in swear jar money.
 

nikerret

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I use Kubota Polyurea or John Deere Polyurea, for my tractor and general purpose. I have some Schaeffer's moly, but haven't used it. I'll need a second gun, for implementing the moly, as it will only go in the loader/backhoe pins. The mower, tiller, snow blower, etc, all use the polyurea.
 

rustbucket5

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polyurea is better than lithium bases but cannot be mixed, so essentially you have to have complete control over greasing or someone will put in the wrong grease at some point. on that note my old job should be having multiple grease failures about now because of me doing exactly that
 

DFB

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Yea different base that's the one reason I haven't been started using polyurea grease yet. Overall JD offers a good line of greases for pretty reasonable prices. For me always happy to buy some from the dealer


That Valvoline SynPower specs good
 

bmwpowere36m3

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I keep Lucas Red 'n Tacky in my Lincoln pistol grip gun with a Lock 'n Lube coupler... used on my tractors, skid steer, mini-excavator and trailers. Most of my cars lack grease points. The Lucas stuff does leak a little if left for long periods of time or heat/cool cycles.
 
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