Greene and Tweed "Defense Hammer"

[jimreed2160]

I picked this up recently. Some sellers say the "Defense Hammer" was a label used to support the war (WWII) effort. Anyone know the real story?

It was made by Greene and Tweed.

This is a number 1 (small).

There are cups on the ends. It originally had rolled up rawhide or wood inserts.

The handle is in nice shape.

I will make a nice pair of hickory faces for it after I prep and paint it. But its future life in my shop will not be defense--it is slated to become an offensive beater.

 

[woody 73]

Sorry I know nothing about the story but...They are still in business Today:

http://www.gtweed.com/

Wish I could help you out; I am working on a story about another hammer and I am so in the dark without any light at the end of the tunnel as they say, At least you know the company name.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Splendid find, Jim. It was a body hammer, most likely with rawhide inserts, used in Army and Navy stateside production plants.

http://www.company-histories.com/Greene-Tweed-Company-Company-History.html
“With another world war on the horizon, the company was well positioned to meet the challenge of supplying America's defense needs…[ ]…The Bronx plant concentrated on braided packings and tools, producing vast quantities of rawhide hammers for aircraft makers and the U.S. Navy...”

Here is a list of their wartime contracts:

Left to right, read:
Product and Contract number (with agency abbreviation embedded) | Service | | Value of contract ($K) | Start Month | Start Yr | End Month | End Yr

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I'll help you out...

The first "TOOLS" contract is US Army Ordnance Dept (ORD)
The second and third "TOOLS" contracts are Navy Bureau of Supplies & Accounts (XSX) and Navy Bureau of Ships (XSS)
The "HAMMERS" contract is Navy Special (S)
The "RAWHIDE MALLETS" contract is US Army Air Corps (AC)

 

[jimreed2160]

Pvt Lug--Thanks for the info. Nice to know it has a military heritage. Now I need to get it back into action.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Pvt Lug--Thanks for the info. Nice to know it has a military heritage. Now I need to get it back into action.

My pleasure, Jim.

I read that you want to use hickory inserts, and who am I to argue with a man with a hammer, but note that those pockets took rolled-up and seasoned rawhide. Depending on the size, you could probably by a replacement from a modern hammer outfit like Garland.

 

[jimreed2160]

My pleasure, Jim.

I read that you want to use hickory inserts, and who am I to argue with a man with a hammer, but note that those pockets took rolled-up and seasoned rawhide. Depending on the size, you could probably by a replacement from a modern hammer outfit like Garland.

Hickory only because that is what I have on hand. But I am certainly open to rawhide. I have both types of hammers around the shop. Are there any areas where rawhide would be superior to hickory?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

That's beyond my expertise, Jim. I just think of them both as soft blow hammers, when you don't want to marr your work piece, something a sheet metal or body guy would use.

 

[notlob]

I have a GT defense hammer as well, and I found out that replacing the faces is more involved than expected. Here is a link to Thor Hammer's instructions on how to replace rawhide and copper faces, which includes a diagram of the special tool they recommend:

http://aws1.sitewizard.co.uk/~thormag/media/wysiwyg/combined-replacing-faces-and-opening-and-closing-tool.pdf

Here are some guides re: recommended uses for various types of soft face hammers.

http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/brochures.html

 

[Private Lugnutz]

If you had a Greene Tweed & Company split-head hammer (they were the first company to make them!) those face replacements would be a lot easier!

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Bluebolt just found a Greene Tweed DEFENSE HAMMER with no number on it, which we both thought was odd, so I went to check on this one and decided to take some photos as long as I had it out.

The head markings read 'BASA HAMMER', 'GREENE, TWEED & CO.', 'NEW YORK' ,and 'NO. 2' around the eye

The original handle marking (tough to see in photos) reads 'BASA No. 2' and 'MFD. BY GREENE, TWEED & CO.' and 'NEW YORK U.S.A.'

It’s funny, GT&CO started out in 1863 making “packings” (which we would call seals today) from leather and asbestos fiber for the water pumps on primitive engines, and today they are still one of the world’s leading producers of high-performance thermoplastic seals for the aerospace industry and many others. Hammers and some other tools were a branch out during WWII that they dropped shortly thereafter.

I believe BASA was their brand name for the inserts that went in this hammer, some kind of material they invented, but I’m not sure, it could just be the brand name for the hammer itself. The name BASA became so synonymous with this type of hammer that GT&Co still owns the trademark that Garland uses in their marketing of a split-head hammer face called BASA.

 

[Billythekid1]

The basa hammers r for removeing Fire brick in coke ovens

 

[Packard V8]

I've restored three rawhide head hammers and unfortunately, the replacement rawhide faces are REALLY EXPENSIVE.

Another downside to rawhide in our dry climate, if not used regularly, the rawhide dries and gets loose in the head. I've been told the best way is to soak the rawhide, install it in the head and pound the stuffing out of something hard. The goal is to mushroom the rawhide seating surface inside the head and have it conform to the head, locking it in place.

 

[jeeper46]

Here's another, with the rawhide rolls still (more or less) present in the hammer heads.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

The basa hammers r for removeing Fire brick in coke ovens

That's what I read, Btk, but do you know what they're made of? Photos look like some kind of composite almost like a synthetic rubber.

(more or less) present.

 

[jimreed2160]

Yeah, I have "a few" of them now.

The very large #5 needs a handle. I found a replacement at HD. It is a sledge handle. Should be OK after shortening and shaping.

I replaced the faces on one with hickory. It works well for beating on vintage vises with stuck dynamics. The others are in varying states but look like great projects.

I like to use a rawhide hammer when replacing paint can tops.

When I fix up the others, I plan to use BLO with no paint. Seems to me that the paint might mark up a project. Sometimes all blows are not on the face.

 

[michaelwolson]

I picked one of those up not too long ago at a $1 garage sale. Guy cringed when I brought it to him for payment...Oh well he still sold it.

Mines been drilled through the middle I believe. Maybe to fit new inserts? Not sure here are the pictures.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Yeah, I have "a few" of them now.

From 1 of them in May, to "a few" (I count 11) of them in August, you're cornering the market, jim.

 

[cbacres]

Yeah, I have "a few" of them now.

The very large #5 needs a handle. I found a replacement at HD. It is a sledge handle. Should be OK after shortening and shaping.

I replaced the faces on one with hickory. It works well for beating on vintage vises with stuck dynamics. The others are in varying states but look like great projects.


I like to use a rawhide hammer when replacing paint can tops.

When I fix up the others, I plan to use BLO with no paint. Seems to me that the paint might mark up a project. Sometimes all blows are not on the face.

No wonder we have such a hard time finding these in FL.
Nice collection!

A word to the wise, keep them out of view if Shirty visits and make sure you have some kind of a detector to check him when he leaves.

 

[Jon_E]

I bought a brand new Garland a few years back, building a timber-frame home. Most of the timber framers I knew were using them to pound in the wood pegs, or 'trenails' into the frame. Very expensive but the split head makes face replacement easy. We had one face with rawhide and the other was a turned round of elm. Faces can be anything - lead, copper, rubber, rawhide, wood, whatever fits the recess in the head.

 

[jimreed2160]

No wonder we have such a hard time finding these in FL.
Nice collection!

A word to the wise, keep them out of view if Shirty visits and make sure you have some kind of a detector to check him when he leaves.

Ha! I will keep that in mind. Maybe I should send one to Mrs. Shorty. She could use it to keep him in line.

 

[cbacres]

Please post up the handle replacement, with all of you other wood projects, I'm sure you'll make a easy one for us.

 

[jimreed2160]

Please post up the handle replacement, with all of you other wood projects, I'm sure you'll make a easy one for us.

As luck would have it, I got some precious shop time this afternoon after my morning grass chores. Here is what I started with.

I slapped it in the vise and used one of the other hammers to persuade it.

But of course the easy way was a no go. I needed help.

The threads sucked up the LW, so I tried again. A little bashing each way and it began to give.

And then just gave up.

Mr bandsaw helped.

What a shame. The wood up here is pristine.

Time to drill some holes.

It is nice to have some beater chisels. I felt some metal (?) in the wood.

Here is the other hammer at work with a brass punch.

What the?

So to keep this massive head in place, they drilled and installed a rod through the head body (!).

I need to punch out the rod and clean up the pieces before their Evaporust spa treatment. Stay tuned for more fun.

 

[Billythekid1]

That's what I read, Btk, but do you know what they're made of? Photos look like some kind of composite almost like a synthetic rubber.

I do not know what the heads r made from I got one at a yard sale and did a little looking online that's where I found the info sorry

 

[1982fxr]

Those castings with the script are friggin awesome

 

[cbacres]

Jim, I was looking at the Garland web site, that is a roll pin. Don't know if I would of caught that before removing the handle.

 

[jimreed2160]

Jim, I was looking at the Garland web site, that is a roll pin. Don't know if I would of caught that before removing the handle.

I-Thought it might have a metal wedge so I drilled carefully. Then I hit the pin. It certainly did its job because it took me a while to work around it. THEN I saw it on the handle under the rust. Anyway, it popped right out with an appropriately sized punch. Live and learn. Now I have to figure out how to replace it. Drilling the hole will not be easy.

 

[jimreed2160]

Evaporust is doing its job but also taking off japan finish.

 

[cbacres]

I-Thought it might have a metal wedge so I drilled carefully. Then I hit the pin. It certainly did its job because it took me a while to work around it. THEN I saw it on the handle under the rust. Anyway, it popped right out with an appropriately sized punch. Live and learn. Now I have to figure out how to replace it. Drilling the hole will not be easy.

Is the hole for the pin in both sides of casting?

If so, what about jigging it up in your drill press where you know you have perfect alignment of the holes before you insert handle, then drill through handle..
Just my lunch time thoughts

 

[jimreed2160]

Is the hole for the pin in both sides of casting?

If so, what about jigging it up in your drill press where you know you have perfect alignment of the holes before you insert handle, then drill through handle..
Just my lunch time thoughts

Thanks for pondering, I was thinking around the same lines. Apparently, great minds think alike! I just need to get the handle in place without blowing out the jig.

BTW, I worked on another one today. I think you need one of these hammers to work on another one. The split nut was jammed on very tight.

And the little rawhide nubbins are toast.

The larger hammers cry out for hickory but the smaller ones like this seem to need rawhide. Must find inexpensive source of same.

 

[1badbird]

My collection, no.1-no.5 plus a few extras.

 

[jimreed2160]

My collection, no.1-no.5 plus a few extras.

Nice group.

 

[SAA44-40]

Fellas- this inspired me to pick up a tweede and green no 1.
Nutz- thanks for the coaching.
Jim Reed- I have a slight amount of play in my hammer. After reading your post about refitting the handle, I tried using a punch to remove the stake- with no joy. Handle is pristine and I don’t want to ****** it up. As a result, I stumbled across a product called swell lock. Allegedly, I can strategically drop a few drops on the hammer end. The wood is supposed to swell and dry. It’s $8 for 2oz bottle on Amazon so not much risk. Stay tuned for feedback.

 

[jimreed2160]

Fellas- this inspired me to pick up a tweede and green no 1.
Nutz- thanks for the coaching.
Jim Reed- I have a slight amount of play in my hammer. After reading your post about refitting the handle, I tried using a punch to remove the stake- with no joy. Handle is pristine and I don’t want to ****** it up. As a result, I stumbled across a product called swell lock. Allegedly, I can strategically drop a few drops on the hammer end. The wood is supposed to swell and dry. It’s $8 for 2oz bottle on Amazon so not much risk. Stay tuned for feedback.

I would try soaking the end of the head in 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. That's what I use on Japanese chisels after I set the hoops and it works well.

 

[tym]

I would try soaking the end of the head in 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. That's what I use on Japanese chisels after I set the hoops and it works well.

+1 in trying BLO. I've had success using it to help snug up loose wood handles.

 

[SAA44-40]

Thanks Jim, I was aware of the linseed tip. However, unaware of the turpentine mix. What is the value of adding the turpentine?

 

[jimreed2160]

Thanks Jim, I was aware of the linseed tip. However, unaware of the turpentine mix. What is the value of adding the turpentine?

Well, for one, it smells really good. But the real reason is to dilute the BLO. For me it dries too quickly and gets gummy and thick. I would rather give things multiple treatments or soak longer to avoid heavy build up. Over time, the BLO will turn wood very dark. Diluting it minimized that effect.

 

[Provincial]

It thins the BLO so that it wicks into the wood fibers better.

 

[notlob]

I've done this with straight BLO on numerous occasions with good results, but it can get quite gummy. I think I'll try out thinning it with turpentine next time.

 

[SAA44-40]

In lieu of turpentine, I’m curious if mixing BLO with mineral spirits would yield similar results?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Yes.

My dad would fill in gouges in wooden handles with a mixture of uncut BLO, sawdust, and varnish. He'd mix that up into a thick pasty gunk in a bowl or whatever like a mortar and pestle, and just dab it in the gouge with his thumb and let it set. Then sand it flush. I imagine it's what they did before it came in a can as filler.