Water well control question and more

[Junkman]

The water well control switch failed on my system, and I replaced it using all the old wiring.
First question.
I was wondering if it is still acceptable to use Romex from the electrical panel to the switch, and from the switch to the well control box, or should it be liquid tight conduit, with individual wires?
Second question.
Since the switch is so closely connected to water, should this be a GFIC breaker, or is the standard 2 pole breaker adequate?
Third question.
The pump has 3 wires coming into the control panel, and it originally had the neutral and the ground tied together, and then the ground wire was connected to the control panel with the bare copper ground wire under a mounting screw of the control panel. Since my "main" panel, is now considered a sub panel, since there is a 200 amp disconnect switch where the power comes into the home from the pole, and the neutrals and grounds were separated in the original "main" panel, should the neutral be removed and just have the ground wire continue from the panel, to the switch, and then onto the metal housing of the well control?
Fourth question.
The original capacitor had a resistor across the two terminals, however, when that one failed, the replacement did not have the resistor installed. It has worked like that for a number of years now, and I did purchase the same type of resistor, but never got around to soldering it to the replacement capacitor. What is the reasoning for this resistor, and should I install it on the replacement capacitor? The numbers on the original capacitor are:
Aerovox M
MADE IN USA
98-106MFD
220/250VAC
PSU8835
677-8929-03

 

[American Locomotive]

The resistor is just to drain the capacitor when the system is disconnected. You can put it back on if you want. If you don't, you just need to keep in mind the capacitor could store a charge.

I've never seen any well pump use liquidtight between the pressure switch and the motor controller.

 

[Norcal]

The NM cable is not kosher but unless its a wet area sealtite is not required, but non-metallic sealtite is what I use, but can't stand to run two runs of sealtite to the pressure switch, my favored way is to mount the disco & pump controller to a short section of 4X4 gutter (wireway) & use a single run to the pressure switch & another to the well for the pump motor. The only place where the grounding & grounded (neutral) conductors are connected together is at the service equipment, if not being used for anything just cap off the neutral & it will be fine.

 

[ard]

I've never seen any well pump use liquidtight between the pressure switch and the motor controller.

Come by my place. Romex is used in walls, anything else is pvc conduit, sealtite or EMT. In the pump house it is PVC conduit and sealtite.


I do have a rather unusual set up- someone might find interesting...pressure tanks and switch under the home. 330 ft away is a barn. There is a relay at the barn that is controlled by that pressure switch. Pump is supplied by a circuit pulled from the barn panel. (so when switch at the tank calls for pump, a 120V signal via #12 energizes the relay 330ft away, sending power to the pump). My thinking was 'deal with one voltage drop calc on the barns' 125A service- supply the well which is close to the barn off of that.'