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Concrete pad on "steep" hill

Sychotix57

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Mar 21, 2015
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Rocky Mount, NC
I ordered a 24x30 slab and I didn't realize how much of a slope my property is. They already came and poured concrete today while I was at work.
Any suggestions a retaining wall or something? I don't know much about this stuff.
Due to a mistake from the dirt hauling company, I am getting 25 tons of fill dirt for free. Should I just pack the dirt against the high side or should I build a retaining wall?54afc0635992803a57358271de225e57.jpg69f42689d4c6818424867cacf2958432.jpg831dff14b41d8722297deb2267d8cd6e.jpgb8b097f65be1ff7c9d5b48fbb4d6ceb0.jpg

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Bighead38

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Rockland County NY
You should have enough full to just pack dirt and slope it away properly. It's cheaper and faster than a wall. Either option make sure you have proper drainage setup and compact it properly.
 

ard

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Feb 16, 2015
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Sierra Foothills... California
What was that slab placed ON????

You can do anything you want with the hill- pack the dirt, retaining wall, whatever...if that slab was not placed on well compacted soil, it may be a short term affair.
 
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Sychotix57

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Mar 21, 2015
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Location
Rocky Mount, NC
What was that slab placed ON????

You can do anything you want with the hill- pack the dirt, retaining wall, whatever...if that slab was not placed on well compacted soil, it may be a short term affair.
Some dirt and stone. It's been tamped pretty good.

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sqznby

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Coastal NC
Curious, was there anything mentioned about it being level in your conversation?
What's the pad for?
 

garagelogician

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Jan 27, 2016
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Blaine, MN
I am also curious what the pad was poured on. In that last photo, it looks like you have some organics/topsoil that was excavated for the forms. Why didn't you have the entire area leveled and prepped before the pour? How thick is the slab? What are you building on the slab? How well is the current subgrade compacted?

I design retaining walls, and I've been in the civil industry for over 10 years. You have the space, so I wouldn't put in a wall. A good quality fill will be your best bet. 25 tons is about 15 yards or so. Hard to tell from your photo, but that should be enough assuming you have 2 feet of height to grade down over 10 ft or so. Compaction is going to be very important. You should put down 6 inch lifts and compact each time.
 
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Sychotix57

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Rocky Mount, NC
I am also curious what the pad was poured on. In that last photo, it looks like you have some organics/topsoil that was excavated for the forms. Why didn't you have the entire area leveled and prepped before the pour? How thick is the slab? What are you building on the slab? How well is the current subgrade compacted?

I design retaining walls, and I've been in the civil industry for over 10 years. You have the space, so I wouldn't put in a wall. A good quality fill will be your best bet. 25 tons is about 15 yards or so. Hard to tell from your photo, but that should be enough assuming you have 2 feet of height to grade down over 10 ft or so. Compaction is going to be very important. You should put down 6 inch lifts and compact each time.
That is 40 tons of fill dirt and some fill sand.
There is some organic material on the side but none under the concrete.(I made sure the topsoil didn't go in there)
The prior surface and the fill were both compacted as much as possible.
That is all the dirt I could afford at the moment due to realization that I needed so much.
I will eventually be putting one of those sheet metal enclosed carports on it.
The pad has rebar and fiber in it with a nice thick plastic barrier underneath.

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ddawg16

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Instead of a wall, a good gentle grade away from the pad would be better....with plenty of grass for erosion control
 
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Sychotix57

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Mar 21, 2015
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Rocky Mount, NC
Instead of a wall, a good gentle grade away from the pad would be better....with plenty of grass for erosion control
That is what I was thinking I should do. But I would like to put a lean-to roof over that area eventually after I get my building put up. I figured it would look nicer under the lean-to with a retaining wall.

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6768rogues

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As long as you slope it away from the building at less than a 45 degree angle and keep it from eroding until ground cover is established, it should be fine.
 

ddawg16

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That is what I was thinking I should do. But I would like to put a lean-to roof over that area eventually after I get my building put up. I figured it would look nicer under the lean-to with a retaining wall.

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Grade for now....you can always change it later
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I'm not a negative person (sometimes I am) but I don't like what I see. I think I'd get after compacting the slopes up to the edges with a gentle slope and controlled compaction. With no footings that are apparent, over compaction will have the ability to lift and crack your slab. In my mind, this should have been all taken care of before the concrete was placed.

And drainage control to stop erosion as mentioned by others. Right now a fabric will do after grading and compaction.
 

big96zr2

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Jan 7, 2017
Messages
19
I was going to have the same issue, luckily my wife was there and she stopped them from finishing the forms until I talked with the concrete guy. I ended up renting a tractor and digging into the hill about 18" to make it levelish. The cut doesnt hold water around the concrete...been getting quite a bit lately and it seems to be draining well. I plan on building a small retaining wall at the back to keep the dirt from washing down hill and pilling against the building.

Brian
 

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