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Hi-Definition

dw1

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So.....the thread I had earlier this week on the broken HDMI cable end and reading a few other threads, I started thinking about the near future. I am getting ready to build a new house in several months, what would be the best to pull to each TV? I will probably have a HD Cable box, not sure of location but don't want to see any wires. The house will have an unfinished basement, I am really thinking of dropping a piece of pvc pipe down the wall into the basement for a chase. I am looking at Spray foaming the outside walls. What is the best technology at the moment? pull HDMI-USB-CAT5/6 cable to each TV
I am also looking at making this somewhat a "Smart House" (Hub) with some type of link, but I will get into that later.

Thanks for the info!
 
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kd3pc

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fiber...or multiple cat6 with proper adapters.

The chase, make it at least an inch, if not bigger, to the living spaces as well as one to the attic and any other place that you may want to use to gain access to walls and so on.

You might want to do similar chases, carlon flex or ...for each living space that may need service. Check out Crestron for the state of the art...

Installation needs to be carefully completed to specs and device terminations need to be swept/tested for the data rates you need.

bests
 

Git

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We bought our current house in 2003. Since it was a 'tract home' there really wasn't much you could do in the way of custom options, unless you wanted to pay through the nose

While it was still under construction, I went up there one night after work and ran 'structured cable' to all the rooms right after they insulated and just before they drywalled.

I marked the location and took pics - once we took the possession of the house it was really easy to cut in a low voltage box, locate the cable and terminate the ends

You don't see much about structured cable - it's a little expensive but sure makes it pretty easy to just pull one cable instead of 4. They have them in different configurations, I used 2 cat5 and 2 coax at the time and bought a 1000' spool

So you may want to consider it - here is a link just for info
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9M2VWU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

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wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
2x CAT6 and 2x coax to each location.

HDMI can be transmitted over CAT6.

2x coax in case you do satellite which sometimes needs 2x coax

Structured cabling is pricey but can save on labor.

If you have money to burn you could do fiber as well (MM OM3) but i doubt you will EVER use it. Fiber is only needed past 100meters.
 
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larry4406

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We bought our current house in 2003. Since it was a 'tract home' there really wasn't much you could do in the way of custom options, unless you wanted to pay through the nose

While it was still under construction, I went up there one night after work and ran 'structured cable' to all the rooms right after they insulated and just before they drywalled.

I marked the location and took pics - once we took the possession of the house it was really easy to cut in a low voltage box, locate the cable and terminate the ends

You don't see much about structured cable - it's a little expensive but sure makes it pretty easy to just pull one cable instead of 4. They have them in different configurations, I used 2 cat5 and 2 coax at the time and bought a 1000' spool

So you may want to consider it - here is a link just for info
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9M2VWU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Customers trespass in my houses and add unauthorized stuff like this I cut the cables each bay throughout the house. Even if I have drywall repairs later when I find it. I've done this many times. Customers too cheap to pay to have it done then sneak in, cut stuff, violate fire stopping, etc. Sorry to go off on a tangent. Our contracts have very rigid no trespassing clauses which include canceling of contract and forefeiture of deposits. All safety driven by trespassers hurting themselves while trespassing. Meanwhile back to regularly scheduled programming....
 

Git

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Customers trespass in my houses and add unauthorized stuff like this I cut the cables each bay throughout the house. Even if I have drywall repairs later when I find it. I've done this many times. Customers too cheap to pay to have it done then sneak in, cut stuff, violate fire stopping, etc. Sorry to go off on a tangent. Our contracts have very rigid no trespassing clauses which include canceling of contract and forefeiture of deposits. All safety driven by trespassers hurting themselves while trespassing. Meanwhile back to regularly scheduled programming....

LMAO

"All safety driven by trespassers hurting themselves while trespassing."

If it is "safety driven" why would you go and cut the cables after the drywall is in.

Actually, I find most tract home builders are clueless when it comes to things like this - especially back in 2003... Kind of like building a new house and using sharkbite fittings

If I found out you cut holes in the wall to cut the cable, I would back out of the deal, one way or the other

By the way, good luck cancelling a contract and keeping a deposit because you discovered some cabling in the wall that you didn't see who installed...
 
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larry4406

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Add Larry4406 to my list of contractors that I would not hire. Rich

I work for one of the largest private home builders in the area. I take my job seriously.

Just because a customer has a contract to buy a house does not give them the right to install unauthorized features in the home prior to settlement. They don't own the house till settlement. They are also trespassing if not escorted. Says so right on the page the sign as part of their contract.

Richard I would be more than pleased to not work for you.

The poster I responded to acknowledged he installed wiring in dead of night. Why? Why didn't he pay for it thru the builder?

Let's get the thread back on track please.
 

ddawg16

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2x CAT6 and 2x coax to each location.

HDMI can be transmitted over CAT6.

2x coax in case you do satellite which sometimes needs 2x coax

Structured cabling is pricey but can save on labor.

If you have money to burn you could do fiber as well (MM OM3) but i doubt you will EVER use it. Fiber is only needed past 100meters.

Exactly what I did.

No reason to run HDMI from a cable box to multiple TV's. Unless you want to watch the same thing on all the TV's.

If you have a smart TV, then stream from NetFlix or other video streaming source.
 

larry4406

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LMAO

"All safety driven by trespassers hurting themselves while trespassing."

If it is "safety driven" why would you go and cut the cables after the drywall is in.

Actually, I find most tract home builders are clueless when it comes to things like this - especially back in 2003... Kind of like building a new house and using sharkbite fittings

If I found out you cut holes in the wall to cut the cable, I would back out of the deal, one way or the other

By the way, good luck cancelling a contract and keeping a deposit because you discovered some cabling in the wall that you didn't see who installed...

Lawyers are pretty good. On what basis is your claim about complaining about a cut/damaged cable wire that is not contracted to be in the house? Your acknowledgement of said cable would mean you had prior knowledge and thus complicit in trespassing.

We had a customer fall to the basement and break their knee while in a house over the weekend; sighed no trespassing agreement came in handy.

Unfortunately I have had to make many repairs from buyers altering their contract purchased homes. Firestopping defeated due to cable and wiring adds, damaged trusses and floor joists from drilling for same, etc. All cost $$ to remove and remediate. Thus I have zero tolerance when someone alters a house I manage.
 

kTHREE

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MN
Uffda, I can't imagine buying a contract purchased home. Sounds like you have zero say until the house is finished and everything is closed up.
While I understand liability and the bottom dollar builds these homes are done under; **** that ****.
 

Git

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Lawyers are pretty good. On what basis is your claim about complaining about a cut/damaged cable wire that is not contracted to be in the house? Your acknowledgement of said cable would mean you had prior knowledge and thus complicit in trespassing.

We had a customer fall to the basement and break their knee while in a house over the weekend; sighed no trespassing agreement came in handy.

Unfortunately I have had to make many repairs from buyers altering their contract purchased homes. Firestopping defeated due to cable and wiring adds, damaged trusses and floor joists from drilling for same, etc. All cost $$ to remove and remediate. Thus I have zero tolerance when someone alters a house I manage.

you make one post that you want to get the thread back on track - and then you post this???

I never said I would 'complain' about the cables being cut - I said "If I found out YOU cut holes in the wall just to cut the cables, I would back out of the deal" At least for me, if I came across something like that - it would be a pretty good indicator I was dealing with a bunch of dickheads and would take my business elsewhere, because that is certainly a ******** move

kTHREE - you're absolutely right, but in some areas, you do not have a choice. In my area, in 2003, structured wiring with a distribution panel in a track home was just about unheard of. Most houses are sold with a contingency - you agree to purchase the new home IF you can sell your old home in time. You come across company like who larry works for, ooops, couldn't sell my house, sorry, can't buy your new house - refund please
 
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rburke65

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I know about liability issues, but I'm with **** head...sorry....Richard Cranium. Right or wrong....id better not find you cutting my cables.......
 

wyliesdiesels

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I work for one of the largest private home builders in the area. I take my job seriously.

Just because a customer has a contract to buy a house does not give them the right to install unauthorized features in the home prior to settlement. They don't own the house till settlement. They are also trespassing if not escorted. Says so right on the page the sign as part of their contract.

Richard I would be more than pleased to not work for you.

The poster I responded to acknowledged he installed wiring in dead of night. Why? Why didn't he pay for it thru the builder?

Let's get the thread back on track please.

Maybe because most out there dont know what the f*ck theyre doing when it comes to this field and yet will charge an arm and a leg to do it.

I cant count the number of times i have had to fix royally screwed up low voltage wiring done by electricians, and general contractors.

I damn near beat a guys *** on a job after he screwed up the CAT5e wiring i pulled in a custom
Home. I was gone on vacation and the general had one of his guy work on my wiring. Because i had ran 2 cables to each location and he didn't find the structured media panel in the closet, he thought i had wired it in series topology and cut all my wires to within 1" of the box opening. I told him to get the hell out and never touch my wiring. It was a pain in the *** to punchdown those jacks...

I agree with the others.

No way would i hire you either.

And i would make sure everyone knew about your jerk attitude. Whatever happened to customer first?
 
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ard

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Customers trespass in my houses and add unauthorized stuff like this I cut the cables each bay throughout the house. Even if I have drywall repairs later when I find it. I've done this many times. Customers too cheap to pay to have it done then sneak in, cut stuff, violate fire stopping, etc. Sorry to go off on a tangent. Our contracts have very rigid no trespassing clauses which include canceling of contract and forefeiture of deposits. All safety driven by trespassers hurting themselves while trespassing. Meanwhile back to regularly scheduled programming....

What a ****. Cutting wires makes it safe??

I work for one of the largest private home builders in the area. I take my job seriously.

So did himmler

Let's get the thread back on track please.

Lol

Didn't YOUfeel the need to attack someone?

Not only do you seem to relish you role as a real ***** to your customers, you then felt compelled to jump on someone totally unrelated to your job as chief safety officer and unauthorized wire cutter of a big home builder.

What a small little vindictive man.
 

Jinks

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Daytona Beach
To the OP, good luck figuring out future wiring..:willy_nil Several years ago I took my house apart, remodeled, & added a second floor. At the time satellite TV was the way to go & I had some good equipment so I ran coax to every location I could think of. I also loop wired for telephone. Didn't take many years to convert to a single phone with wireless stations around the house. Lots of station wire sitting idle.......:dunno: Several more years, progress in electronics, internet, wireless, & digital TV, & all that has changed. I now use wireless for nearly everything.

I dropped sat. TV, got rid of AT&T, & use cable for internet & phone. I still run TV from an antenna to each room on coax for local stations, but everything else is wireless from my router. Wireless will continue to improve, & is the foreseeable future. It may, or may not, be sufficient for your needs today. If I had to do it again, & had access to the build, I would run conduit from every possible location to a central equipment closet/room. Pull cord in each conduit, & NO 90 degree turns! If you need any type of wire you can change with whatever is in use at that time.
 

reader2580

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Minneapolis, MN
My first house I owned the lot before choosing a builder. I bought a lot in late 2000 with a condemned house and it ended up being cheaper to demolish and rebuild than to basically rebuild the existing house.

My deal with the builder was that I would do all the electrical work myself. This included all low voltage wiring. The builder had no issue with me doing the work. I was also allowed to visit any time I wanted and he gave me a key once the doors went in. This was a complete custom build and not a tract home in a new subdivision.
 
OP
D

dw1

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My first house I owned the lot before choosing a builder. I bought a lot in late 2000 with a condemned house and it ended up being cheaper to demolish and rebuild than to basically rebuild the existing house.

My deal with the builder was that I would do all the electrical work myself. This included all low voltage wiring. The builder had no issue with me doing the work. I was also allowed to visit any time I wanted and he gave me a key once the doors went in. This was a complete custom build and not a tract home in a new subdivision.

This is exactly what I have. I bought a couple acres down the road from our house, it was a foreclosure and a jungle. I had to tear down an old horse barn and pretty much level the property, I then built my pole barn but could not go bigger than the 120 Y.O farm house that was there, once I had my barn built, I tore down the old, falling down farm house. I agreed to put in a new septic system, 65+ tri axle loads of top soil later, I passed and I am ready to build. My buddy is a builder and we will do this together. I have traded with my GC/Builder, excavator, plumber and my landscaper over the years, hopefully this will be fairly easy. and budget easy. Both our kids have bought houses and have moved out, we don't need this big of a house, me, my wife and out 80# 4 legged beast. I am an electrician by trade, I just dont keep up with the changing TV/Entertainment technology. My new Pole Barn has Electric, internet, water, bath room w/ shower. I am going to wall off a 480 sq' portion and install a mini split. We was talking about selling our house when a young lady asked about her friends looking at it, I was ok with that, tell them to call me next spring I said, they came that Friday and bought our house, oh well, we were moving anyway, now have to be out in Oct, compared to next spring.
This has been a 3 year " Work In Progress" for me, but its starting to take shape. I will install some type of chase in the wall at every TV. On the back of our cable box now, we have an HDMI, USB and Ethernet/Cat jack.
Thanks for all the info!!
Once the house is built, I will cancel the existing cable drop to the barn and feed it from the house, which could be interesting, the only cable at the street is on the barn side of the property, house will be on the other side of property. The house will have an underground feed on its own existing Xfmer, the barn has its own feed/meter on its own transformer, this was already there in place.
 
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ddawg16

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Here is an old pic of my panel for all my network connections. Each one of those 'holes' represents a run to one of the bedrooms. Some rooms have more runs

Forgot to add.....it's not finished in this pic. Now I have wall plates up with the appropriate connectors
 

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grantw

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So.....the thread I had earlier this week on the broken HDMI cable end and reading a few other threads, I started thinking about the near future. I am getting ready to build a new house in several months, what would be the best to pull to each TV? I will probably have a HD Cable box, not sure of location but don't want to see any wires. The house will have an unfinished basement, I am really thinking of dropping a piece of pvc pipe down the wall into the basement for a chase. I am looking at Spray foaming the outside walls. What is the best technology at the moment? pull HDMI-USB-CAT5/6 cable to each TV
I am also looking at making this somewhat a "Smart House" (Hub) with some type of link, but I will get into that later.

Thanks for the info!


I like the structured cabling idea, as it has everything you need and you only need to pull once.

As for the other bits of this thread. My house that I am paying money for, my rules. Find a contractor that will work with you and for you, not against you.
 
OP
D

dw1

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My utilities will come in on the side of the house (Into the "unfinished" basement) I can do just what you did in my basement, the family room TV and MBR TV will be right above, on that side also. So 2-Cat6 and 2-RG6 to each tv, I believe I can handle that as soon as the Family Room TV location discrepancy is resolved. This is gonna be fun, we did this 24 years ago and it seems like yesterday. One can accumulate a lot of junk in 24 years at the same place. My next move will be my kids issue!!

Thks
 

garage guy1of38

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Ontario, Canada
I do this for a living.

This is my shop prewire at the equipment rack location.

First rule of wire.
1. Better to look at it than look for it
2. See rule #1

There's 10 times that inside my house.

House and shop are linked underground by copper and fibre (I prefer linking outbuildings with fibre to eliminate lightning damage to the gear entering the building over copper).

Edit to add.

The prewire in the shop is to support:
3 4K tvs.
7 4K CCTV cameras
11 speakers inside
4 subwoofers
Sonance Landscape Audio
Alarm
Hvac
Wifi access points
Cell boost system
3 zones of distributed Audio off the main house system
3 Sat receivers
Automated Lutron Lighting control (tied to main house system)
 

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jkeyser14

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I paid our builder to run CAT6 throughout our house. The cable they ran was marked CAT6 but was CCA (copper clad aluminum) with no plastic separator between the pairs. If it doesn't have a separator it is not built to CAT6 specs. They electrician who ran it was clueless about low voltage stuff and ethernet wiring specs.

I wound up running my own cable and upgraded to CAT6a while I was at it.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Here is an old pic of my panel for all my network connections. Each one of those 'holes' represents a run to one of the bedrooms. Some rooms have more runs

Forgot to add.....it's not finished in this pic. Now I have wall plates up with the appropriate connectors

oh my god. :wtf:

Agreed.

That looks horrible.

Couldve brought all the cables through one or two holes behind a rack or patch frame or into a structured media panel.

I paid our builder to run CAT6 throughout our house. The cable they ran was marked CAT6 but was CCA (copper clad aluminum) with no plastic separator between the pairs. If it doesn't have a separator it is not built to CAT6 specs. They electrician who ran it was clueless about low voltage stuff and ethernet wiring specs.

I wound up running my own cable and upgraded to CAT6a while I was at it.

That ***** they used CCA type cable. Cheap skates most likely...:shocking:

However, what you said about the divider is not true. the cross-web divider is NOT required to meet the TIA standard. Some manu. use it to meet the standard and others have different methods to meet the standard without using the divider.

http://www.belden.com/pdfs/techpprs/What_is_Category_6_Q&A.pdf

This is because Category 6 cables are manufactured with larger copper conductors and may include an internal divider called a cross-web that serves to separate the pairs within the cable and reduce cross-talk noise. The cross-web divider to separate the pairs is not a specified requirement of the Cat 6 standard, and some manufacturers have developed designs and processes that deliver full Cat 6 compliance without the use of any physical dividers between pairs.
And CAT6a is a waste of money in a residence. Just like its a waste to run structured cable with fiber in a residence(though I have done so for some clients that wanted to spend the money). CAT5e and CAT6 are more than capable of doing gigabit.

CAT6a(augmented) is best for 10GBase-T aka 10 gigabit, use upto 100m, though CAT6 can do 10gig at up to between 37m-55m depending on brand of cable and noise environment. Unless you have servers and need that kind of bandwidth locally on your property (or have a fiber connection to a SONET ring) then theres no point to it nor can most justify spending that kind of money.

But hey its your money not mine. :lol_hitti

BTW if you ever see CT6e, dont buy it. Its BS since there is no standard for CAT6e...

Just when I thought Cat 6 was the thing..... now I saw cat 7 for sale..... WTH..


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO/IEC_11801#CAT7

CAT7 is not a recognized cable type by the TIA/EIA. When the CAT6a standard was ratified in 2008, it essentially replaced the up and coming CAT7 standard since CAT6a can do 10GBase-T at 100m. So the CAT7 standard was abandoned...

CAT7 does not use the same RJ45 8P8C connectors that CAT6/a, 5e/5 use. Instead, there are 3 different connector types- GG45, ARJ45 and TERA. As of this year, there is no network equipment that supports these connectors so CAT7 is dead in the water.

So dont buy CAT7.

And now a CAT8 standard is being worked on....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO/IEC_11801#CAT7
 
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grantw

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I paid our builder to run CAT6 throughout our house. The cable they ran was marked CAT6 but was CCA (copper clad aluminum) with no plastic separator between the pairs. If it doesn't have a separator it is not built to CAT6 specs. They electrician who ran it was clueless about low voltage stuff and ethernet wiring specs.

I wound up running my own cable and upgraded to CAT6a while I was at it.

I have mixed feelings about CCA. On one hand, it's in a wall and not subject to movement or stress beyond original installation. On the other hand, it's CCA. Ideally you're wiring your house once, pay the extra $100 per box and do it "right".

I'm sure your builder charged you for non-cca cable too. :(
 

American Locomotive

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And CAT6a is a waste of money in a residence. Just like its a waste to run structured cable with fiber in a residence(though I have done so for some clients that wanted to spend the money). CAT5e and CAT6 are more than capable of doing gigabit. CAT6a(augmented) is generally reserved for 10GBase-T aka 10 gigabit, use. Unless you have servers and need that kind of bandwidth locally on your property (or have a fiber connection to a SONET ring) then theres no point to it nor is it justified to spend that kind of money.
Just a few corrections: CAT6 is capable of doing 10G, CAT6a is capable of 10G over a longer distance, and is rated at twice the speed of CAT6. That gives the cable more headroom for future upgrades if you plan to use your cable for video. CAT6 doesn't provide enough bandwidth for 4K60 video, while CAT6a theoretically can.
 

dogdog

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Agreed.

That looks horrible.

Couldve brought all the cables through one or two holes behind a rack or patch frame or into a structure media panel.



That ***** they used CCA type cable. Cheap skates most likely...:shocking:

However, what you said about the divider is not true. the cross-web divider is NOT required to meet the TIA standard. Some manu. use it to meet the standard and others have different methods to meet the standard without using the divider.

http://www.belden.com/pdfs/techpprs/What_is_Category_6_Q&A.pdf



And CAT6a is a waste of money in a residence. Just like its a waste to run structured cable with fiber in a residence(though I have done so for some clients that wanted to spend the money). CAT5e and CAT6 are more than capable of doing gigabit. CAT6a(augmented) is generally reserved for 10GBase-T aka 10 gigabit, use. Unless you have servers and need that kind of bandwidth locally on your property (or have a fiber connection to a SONET ring) then theres no point to it nor is it justified to spend that kind of money.

But hey its your money not mine. :lol_hitti



CAT7 is not a recognized by TIA/EIA. When the CAT6a standard was ratified in 2008, it essentially replaced the up and coming CAT7 since CAT6a can do 10GBase-T at 100m.

CAT7 does not use the same RJ45 8P8C connectors that CAT6/a, 5e/5 use. Instead, there are 3 different connector types- GG45, ARJ45 and TERA. As of this year, there is no network equipment that supports these connectors so CAT7 is dead in the water.

SO dont buy CAT7. OR CAT6e for that matter as there is no standard for CAT6e

And now a CAT8 standard is being worked on....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO/IEC_11801#CAT7

^^^^ that is good info...
Thx
 

wyliesdiesels

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Just a few corrections: CAT6 is capable of doing 10G, CAT6a is capable of 10G over a longer distance, and is rated at twice the speed of CAT6. That gives the cable more headroom for future upgrades if you plan to use your cable for video. CAT6 doesn't provide enough bandwidth for 4K60 video, while CAT6a theoretically can.

Correct. upto between 37m and 55m depending on brand of CAT6 and noise environment....

Thanks... I was tired :sad:... corrections made...
 

prostreetamx

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The only future proof wiring method would be to run a conduit to each location. I wired my own house 15 years ago and it is a tract house. I worked for the electrical contractor who had the job at the time. I was allowed to do all the electrical work and added a structured panel at that time. I have wired hundreds of custom and tract homes and was pretty familiar with what was needed for low voltage at the time. Every jack in my house has 4 cables and there are 2 or more in each bedroom and other locations. I used cat 5e at that time and RG-6 quad shield cable. I did not run a conduit run to each run like I wanted since I only had 2 days to do all the wiring before inspection and insulation. I just added a 1200 sq. ft garage addition and used the same stuff to put multiple jacks in that also. I did run HDMI cables to 4 locations since coax is pretty useless since all TV'c connected to cable require a separate box anyway. I also ran HDMI to all of my security camera monitors. I also put in an intercom system with upgraded shielded cable. I wish I had done more since it is only wire but I ran out of time. In the long run wire is cheap compared to cutting holes later. Fortunately I am not afraid to cut and patch sheetrock so I have been adding more cables over the years. Put in the best cable you can find, pull a few spares and even put some in locations you might not think you need at this time. I really don't like the idea of a wireless house with all the hacking and eves dropping out there. I have a very limited range Wi-Fi system on purpose. I also will never install security cameras inside on a wireless system.
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
The only future proof wiring method would be to run a conduit to each location.
Likely true, but a still a problem. Things like HDMI have pre-assembled cable/connectors and field installation is just not reasonable. Same is true for fiber optic.


I know that the current HDMI cables are not capable of handle a 4K signal, but I don't know what the replacement. The computer industry hit the limit of DVI (basically HDMI without audio and a different connector) several years ago. Some monitors used paired cables, most have now gone to DisplayPort. Conceptually, DisplayPort is more like a 4 channel PCIe bus and (in theory) can do audio and USB at the same time.

From Wikipedia "

According to a roadmap published by VESA in September 2016, a new version of DisplayPort should be launched in 2017. It improves the link rate from 8.1 to 10 Gbit/s, a 24% increase. This will increase the total bandwidth from 32.4 Gbit/s to 40.0 Gbit/s. It is not clear whether the new version will continue using the 8b/10b for transport encoding, so the usable data rate is unknown.

The added bandwidth makes more uncompressed resolutions possible, such as:

• 5K (5120 × 2880) 60 Hz 30 bit/px RGB
• 4K (3840 × 2160) 120 Hz 30 bit/px RGB
• 4K (3840 × 2160) 144 Hz 24 bit/px RGB

Apple/Intel came up with the Thunderbolt/Mini-DisplayPort standard in 2008. It is electrically backwards compatible with DisplayPort but uses a smaller connector and in 2009 was adopted into the VESA DisplyPort standard. It IS gaining "traction" but I think it will be some time before a would call it an "industry standard". The connector is small enough it could be pulled through a 1" conduit.
 
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Jazzman442

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Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
553
Location
Tampa Bay area, FL
The only future proof wiring method would be to run a conduit to each location. I wired my own house 15 years ago and it is a tract house. I worked for the electrical contractor who had the job at the time. I was allowed to do all the electrical work and added a structured panel at that time. I have wired hundreds of custom and tract homes and was pretty familiar with what was needed for low voltage at the time. Every jack in my house has 4 cables and there are 2 or more in each bedroom and other locations. I used cat 5e at that time and RG-6 quad shield cable. I did not run a conduit run to each run like I wanted since I only had 2 days to do all the wiring before inspection and insulation. I just added a 1200 sq. ft garage addition and used the same stuff to put multiple jacks in that also. I did run HDMI cables to 4 locations since coax is pretty useless since all TV'c connected to cable require a separate box anyway. I also ran HDMI to all of my security camera monitors. I also put in an intercom system with upgraded shielded cable. I wish I had done more since it is only wire but I ran out of time. In the long run wire is cheap compared to cutting holes later. Fortunately I am not afraid to cut and patch sheetrock so I have been adding more cables over the years. Put in the best cable you can find, pull a few spares and even put some in locations you might not think you need at this time. I really don't like the idea of a wireless house with all the hacking and eves dropping out there. I have a very limited range Wi-Fi system on purpose. I also will never install security cameras inside on a wireless system.

:thumbup::thumbup: I agree. I have been in this business for more years than I would like to admit.

You contractors are the reason I built my own house. They tell you it is for safty and all the other ****. All you would have to do is have them sign a contract on if they get hurt they are on their own.. You all just want all the profit in the cabling...

Have them run the Conduit and then run the cables your self. Cat 6 will get you into the future at least 10 to 20 years maybe forever. LOL
 

prostreetamx

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Joined
Dec 19, 2016
Messages
222
Location
Las Vegas
When I did Pardee homes they would cut out all extra cable they found before sheetrock. Imagine buying and moving into a house you pre wired with surround sound, data or other upgraded cables only to find them all gone when you started cutting holes. One super even returned the cables in a box during the final walkthrough. In my case I had permission to add cables since I also worked for the company that had the contract to wire all the houses. I did not terminate any of them until I moved in. I installed blank covers over all of the low voltage mud rings. I guess they figured out later that there were a lot of electrical upgrades as well as a 400a panel that they decided they could sell my house to someone else for more money. They tried to cancel my deal if I set foot on the job after the house was trimmed out so I never went back until the house closed and was funded. They approved the extras in advance but they didn't get any extra money from me for them. I also got their biggest lot for no extra since I got a discount for working for the electrical contractor that covered the lot premium. My builder did not put up with anything since this was just before the boom and houses were pretty easy to sell at that time.
 

prostreetamx

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Joined
Dec 19, 2016
Messages
222
Location
Las Vegas
The 75' HDMI's I ran in my new garage have a pretty big amplifier built into the cable that would make them pretty tough to pull in conduit. That section of each cable is in the attic where it is accessible. 2" conduits would be great in areas where you don't loose insulation value in the outside walls I guess bout 2" can get pretty expensive to do in an entire house for future upgrades. I have run 1" emt in a few customs for future but it wasn't common. You can pull prefabbed HDMI and displayport through 1" if you are carefull. I have installed hundreds of TV.s for Trade Shows and displayport is pretty rare except for the TV's they use for video walls which are really expensive units. It would be easier just to run extra Cat 6 cables everywhere since lots of equipment is going that way. The newer intercoms use cat 5, you can run HDMI over 2 cat 5's and even security cameras use it. Cat 5 and 6 are not that expensive by the 1000' box or reel.
 
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