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How does one make a "round" type of deck/wood structure?

NewShockerGuy

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Silly question I'm sure to the guys on here that do amazing work with woodworking.

I'll get pictures of my shed later today when I get home but I wanted to add a sort of round/ovalish type of side platform so that I can put plants/small garden so it's not on the grass.

I have a attached a picture of something I found online of a round deck surface but I need to ask the dumb question on how is that achieved? I understand the top planks are cut in a circular shape. But if you look below you can see the white frame is also round... How is this done?

I've seen Norm on tv put wood in an steamer to bend it but that doesn't seem like that would be done to a larger diameter piece of wood plus most people don't have a press to hold a the form.

What am I missing exactly?

Thanks,
-Nigel
 

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readhead

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Multiple layers of bending plywood. Lots of glue and some sort of finish to protect it. Joist layout is key. I would lean toward some kind of spoke like layout but a parallel layout would work also.
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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Back cut the outside trim board. Use a 1/2" board and make 1/4" deep cuts every 1/2 to 3/4" depending on how tight the radius is. Experiment with a scrap piece to figure out spacing. Using the plastic boards will make it easier. Just thinking out loud.
 

yeldogt

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I did something like that -- it's just standard 16" OC framing -- we set PT 4x4 posts in the ground with PT 2X material on each side as a beam. Built the rafters above. The curve is the tricky part -- we used Azek. It will bend if in the sun on a hot day -- we bent it around and used it for a guide -- marked the curve. Finished the framing -- heated up the Azek and screwed it into place. If you look at the picture -- whoever did that curve .. screwed it up a bit. You will have a fair amount of waste -- the deck boards will need to be full length (not cuts) in most places. Mark the boards after they are installed -- cut them off.
 

tomtomgt356

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If you look closely at that picture, it looks like the framing boards are mitered, not curved. You can cut a bunch of short pieces at 85° (or whatever angle gives you the size and shape you want) and get it close to a circular shape.
 

turbowoodworker

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I agree with TomTom. The base fascia is not curved, but short mitered sections. I can't imagine any type of bending wood that would last that close to the ground. I can't even imagine much of that "very pretty" shed lasting in any kind of weather (lack of overhang, polyurethaned decking). Nice shed for a magazine picture but don't expect it to look like that 5 years after the photographer leaves. My 2 cents.
 

turbowoodworker

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To answer OP question, if you are building a deck with piers, just build it (the substructure) rectilinear. Then you can add decking, leave it long, and cut any radius you want.
 

jives

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Standard linear framing underneath. Keep in mind that some PVC/composite trim boards are really flexible and may be able to bend in the radius you want.
 

HotrodHR

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PVC trim boards, set in sun (not the easiest method depends on temp) or use a heat blanket to "soften" and bend around structure.

A lot of effort and cost to do this, unless you can find a loaner heat blanket or some other method...

Seems like a lot of work... the real question is why? If you want to add interest how about a hexagon or octagon shape...
 

CJ7VFR

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I agree with TomTom. The base fascia is not curved, but short mitered sections....

Exactly. The "round" or curved lower fascia board area is not actually round. If you look closely, they are all short pieces of straight boards mitered together to create a "curve".

There is nothing wrong with doing this. It is actually preferred to use this method as it is easier to do, and easier to replace if need be.

Yes you can try the methods suggested here by others, like making scoring cuts on the backside of a really long board, and if it works, then it will actually be "round" or curved when you install it.

But to get it to do that, successfully, on the first shot, it not easy, and can end up costing a lot of money if the long boards crack or break because the score cuts were not right, or too much pressure was put on the board to bend it, and you have to keep doing it over and over again.

If you want to achieve the look of the round fascia board area shown in the picture, just use short straight pieces mitered together on the ends. The shorter they are, and the more you use, will give the illusion of a more rounded area.

Jim
 
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MikeF2316

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We have Home Depot's and Lowes stores that provide the same thing, only in much larger quantity. Especially in the pressure treated wood...

Jim

Unfortunately, they aren't consistent, and the have a certain, and differing amount of twist! :lol_hitti
 

JRC3

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Instead of a wood you could do a paver circle. Flat or elevated.

We have a local retailer named Menards that sells curved 2x's right from the stack...

Originally Posted by CJ7VFR View Post
We have Home Depot's and Lowes stores that provide the same thing, only in much larger quantity. Especially in the pressure treated wood...

I always tell them, "This would be a good place to open a lumber section." The real problem is that we don't want to pay for good lumber. We expect a perfect piece of wood for $1.89.
 
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SteveCh

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Substructure can be "loosely" a circle. The top decking is the only part you need to be round. You can even put the decking on and then cut the circle with a jig saw [saber saw]. Easy.
 

rlitman

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Back cut the outside trim board. Use a 1/2" board and make 1/4" deep cuts every 1/2 to 3/4" depending on how tight the radius is. Experiment with a scrap piece to figure out spacing. Using the plastic boards will make it easier. Just thinking out loud.

That's the old school way of doing it, and I've used this method for interior base molding.

But outdoors on a deck, you can now buy bendable PVC trim board. Stuff that's only 1/4" thick to begin with. With that, there should be no need for back cuts.
 

LXCam

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We have a local retailer named Menards that sells curved 2x's right from the stack...

We have Home Depot's and Lowes stores that provide the same thing, only in much larger quantity. Especially in the pressure treated wood...

Jim


Lucky bastages, all my local place sells is propellers. :(

Btw OP you can also laminate 1/4" plywood if you feel like sealing it up properly once you have it glued and screwed together.
 

ItsNemo

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That's the old school way of doing it, and I've used this method for interior base molding.

But outdoors on a deck, you can now buy bendable PVC trim board. Stuff that's only 1/4" thick to begin with. With that, there should be no need for back cuts.
I've always heard of it as kerfing a board. Just a quick google search turned up this...his kerfing isn't too close together but it really depends on the radius required.

framingcurveddeckedge-9.jpg
 

JJ13

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We have a local retailer named Menards that sells curved 2x's right from the stack...

:bounce: Yep, I love when you see online that they have 250+ in stock and only 10 are actually able to be used and you spend an hour digging through the already precariously stacked pile.

Somebody mentioned cutting slots across the width of the board before bending it. If I remember, that it called kerf bending. Only problem is, depending on the species of wood used, you might still get lots of cracks and have to make multiple attempts before you succeed. Cutting all those slots on a table saw or using a circular saw free hand is NOT fun.
 

Ray-CA

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I learned this years ago-

Divide 360 (degrees in a circle) by how many sections you want. That's the angle you need to cut each miter.

For example, you want to build a bench to go around a tree and you want six sections. 360/6- Each miter will need to be 60*, 5 sections would be 72* etc.

Hope it helps,

Ray
 

no704

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Had a friend who was building a terrarium and wanted to cut circular holes for the lamps. She asked me if she could borrow a circular saw.
 

ard

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1. Kerfing is fine- inside. It gives water a GREAT way to penetrate into the wood when used outside.

2. Trex bends really nicely. Thinner for tighter radii. You can plane it too. I'd miter the structural stuff, then use tex or vinyl/plastic as a smooth, curved fascia over the mitered structure.
 

58Yeoman

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:bounce: Yep, I love when you see online that they have 250+ in stock and only 10 are actually able to be used and you spend an hour digging through the already precariously stacked pile.

Somebody mentioned cutting slots across the width of the board before bending it. If I remember, that it called kerf bending. Only problem is, depending on the species of wood used, you might still get lots of cracks and have to make multiple attempts before you succeed. Cutting all those slots on a table saw or using a circular saw free hand is NOT fun.

Would it be easier with a 'radio arm' saw? I see a lot of those for sale on CL.:lol_hitti
 

Nexussian

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Silly question I'm sure to the guys on here that do amazing work with woodworking.

I'll get pictures of my shed later today when I get home but I wanted to add a sort of round/ovalish type of side platform so that I can put plants/small garden so it's not on the grass.

I have a attached a picture of something I found online of a round deck surface but I need to ask the dumb question on how is that achieved? I understand the top planks are cut in a circular shape. But if you look below you can see the white frame is also round... How is this done?

I've seen Norm on tv put wood in an steamer to bend it but that doesn't seem like that would be done to a larger diameter piece of wood plus most people don't have a press to hold a the form.

What am I missing exactly?

Thanks,
-Nigel

Someone may have already mentioned this, but the fascia in your picture isn't actually round, it appears faceted.
 
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