Wood hole saw kit

[Iwearcrocs]

Looking for a wood hole saw kit. I've looked around online and it just doesn't seem like there are any out there besides the cheap HF type kits.

I bought the HF one to give it a try, but it's junk. I know there are the bi-metal kits but those get really pricey because i need the larger sizes 3,4,5,6.

Am I missing something, or just fork out the $$$


My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[The Cobbler]

fork out the $$ for bi metal

 

[Greyhorse]

I just buy the ones I need, I like the Milwaukee mandrels and have had good luck with Milwaukee or Dewalt saws. Btw, I mostly use them for coping 2-3/8 and 2-7/8 pipe for making pipe fences so they take a beating. I have a few larger for putting in lights in the ceiling and stuff like that also.

 

[T45]

http://www.sawbladeexpress.com/Prod...80&CatId=c99cfe4d-df45-40b8-a8cc-49e370177476

and buy any extras as singles...

 

[dbabicky]

Milwaukee sells some nice kits. Their "Hole Dozer" kits are well worth the money and you can pick them up at Home Depot, Ect.

 

[thertel]

http://www.sawbladeexpress.com/ProductListing.aspx?CatId=c99cfe4d-df45-40b8-a8cc-49e370177476

I bought a full set of 51 hole saws from them, they were the OEM for a bunch of different companies. Oh and I forgot to mention that since they are exiting that business they are all priced for $2.35 each.3

 

[R_einan]

I ordered a decent selection from sawblade express a few months back, figured for that kind of money stocking up wouldn't be a bad idea. Used a few of them and they are decent by my standards. Not sure what your intended uses are, other thank wood, but you might be better served using forstner bits depending on the type of wood and thickness.

 

[nutsnbolts]

With these hole saws do you get a nice clean hole without splintering? Do you use painter's tape on both sides of the wood? Someone also suggested forstner bits. Any opinions either way? I have repurposed an old wine rack into a stand for holding fishing rod blanks so I need to drill holes in it, but I have never done much woodworking. When I took a scrap board and a regular drill bit to it, it splintered horribly

 

[Marctrees]

From what I can tell, those are a steal.

If I needed any more, definitely would stock up.

Marc

 

[mike93lx]

With these hole saws do you get a nice clean hole without splintering? Do you use painter's tape on both sides of the wood? Someone also suggested forstner bits. Any opinions either way? I have repurposed an old wine rack into a stand for holding fishing rod blanks so I need to drill holes in it, but I have never done much woodworking. When I took a scrap board and a regular drill bit to it, it splintered horribly

Cutting from both sides will help. Running in reverse to start can help, but only works well in softer woods.

I tend to use a piece if plywood as a backer and tightly clamp the work to it.

 

[engineer2]

I have a Milwaukee kit and it has been fine. I believe some other brands like Lenox will fit the Milwaukee arbor too.

 

[txvwnut]

Forstner bits is the way would go for wood. They'll leave a much cleaner hole than a hole saw will.

 

[mike93lx]

Forstner bits is the way would go for wood. They'll leave a much cleaner hole than a hole saw will.

He needs 3-6" holes...

 

[rharman]

Forstner bits is the way would go for wood. They'll leave a much cleaner hole than a hole saw will.

He needs 3-6" holes...

A 3" Forstner is doable. 6"? No way.

 

[nutsnbolts]

Cutting from both sides will help. Running in reverse to start can help, but only works well in softer woods.

I tend to use a piece if plywood as a backer and tightly clamp the work to it.

If I use a forstner bit should I still drill from both sides? And use a plywood backer? What I want to drill into is Douglas fir I believe. It isn't a nice piece of wood, very utilitarian, but I still want it to come out nice and clean and, most importantly, I don't want a bunch of splinters that will scratch my blanks up

 

[mike93lx]

A backer will always help, as will drilling from both sides.

You are using a drill press, right? If not, that is going to be challenging.

If not, i would drill a pilot hole with a small bit (maybe 1/16").get it as straight as possible. Drill halfway through, flip and go from the other side. Clamp your work tightly, regardless of what tool you are using to drill.

 

[nutsnbolts]

I am not using a drill press, as I had not taken the thing apart. I was just going to use my cordless drill. I also have a corded drill if that would be better. Or if you think it is necessary, I could take it apart and bring the pieces to work and use the drill press in the shop.

Also, should I drill on a fast or slow setting?

 

[speed bump]

I am not using a drill press, as I had not taken the thing apart. I was just going to use my cordless drill. I also have a corded drill if that would be better. Or if you think it is necessary, I could take it apart and bring the pieces to work and use the drill press in the shop.

Also, should I drill on a fast or slow setting?

Slow, stop often and blow the saw dust out of your cut if you are going to do it with a cordless drill or a non slow speed corded drill. With big hole saws I typically use my Milwaukee 1/2" right angle drill (always brace everything first, I knocked the wind out of myself one time when I wasn't paying attention) or put it drill press if possible. The drill press is absolutely the fastest, safest, and easiest way to do it.

 

[speed bump]

http://www.sawbladeexpress.com/ProductListing.aspx?CatId=c99cfe4d-df45-40b8-a8cc-49e370177476

I bought a full set of 51 hole saws from them, they were the OEM for a bunch of different companies. Oh and I forgot to mention that since they are exiting that business they are all priced for $2.35 each.3

Thanks for the link, I just ordered $50 worth of hole saws.

 

[nutsnbolts]

Slow, stop often and blow the saw dust out of your cut if you are going to do it with a cordless drill or a non slow speed corded drill. With big hole saws I typically use my Milwaukee 1/2" right angle drill (always brace everything first, I knocked the wind out of myself one time when I wasn't paying attention) or put it drill press if possible. The drill press is absolutely the fastest, safest, and easiest way to do it.

Thanks! I had a crazy busy weekend with my mom's 70th birthday. Hopefully this weekend I can get a chance to see how difficult it will be to take it apart and just do it on a drill press. In fact, it might even be a good enough reason for me to BUY a drill press. What can I find on Craigslist....

 

[ThatSickRip]

Thanks for the link, I just ordered $50 worth of hole saws.

They're saying $29.52 for s/h for me. What did they say for you? I replicated the blades that were in the Milwaukee kit at Acme for $69. For the price of shipping plus blades, Ill just order the Milwaukee and get the additional arbor and drill bits, plus case.

 

[Gmonkee]

In the future I have three doors to insrall. Just that then long term stowage for the hole saw.

So my brace which has done it all so far and that cheap (generic style) Pretul kit will be fine. Four sizes common to doors and hardware currently sold.

The kit cost a five spot, to hire out a pro on this would be a bit more.

The Milwaukee offerings are much nicer and most likely better in long term use but also priced for the pro. That is a brutal price to pay for one off use.

 

[4Kings]

Just drill the holes then use a trim router with a round over or chamfer bit to clean up the edges. Should do away with most of the splintering plus your rods won't hang up as much on the sharp edge.

 

[dogdog]

It all dependents on the intended usage of the OP... if it is just holes rough holes... those bi-metal saw are good they even sell carbide tipped hole saw now, I think Diablo sells them... but it is a thin carbide tips , doesn't seem too heavy duty. I have that ridgid sets I think it's OEM of lenoxtools.... works fine for my needs.

For fine wood working holes.... I have these forstner bits kit from portable cable... kick as accurate holes with perfect edges...


for largest holes , I use a router... and jig... either buy one of build one... Jasper circle jig is really nice if you want accurate holes for speaker building or holes around speaker size...

https://www.parts-express.com/jaspe...source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

for even larger holes... I am pretty sure you can google that plan, I build it out of some flat 1/4 flooring...

NO HF bits are good so don't even buy it there.

 

[T45]

They're saying $29.52 for s/h for me. What did they say for you? I replicated the blades that were in the Milwaukee kit at Acme for $69. For the price of shipping plus blades, Ill just order the Milwaukee and get the additional arbor and drill bits, plus case.

They have free shipping over $50 orders, call them or look for the details online (somewhere there is a code if its not automatic). The saws are high quality, these guys were OEM for alot of high end relabels.

 

[jonesg]

THese circle cutters work great on wood and fiberglass.

 

[cheechi]

http://www.sawbladeexpress.com/ProductListing.aspx?CatId=c99cfe4d-df45-40b8-a8cc-49e370177476

I bought a full set of 51 hole saws from them, they were the OEM for a bunch of different companies. Oh and I forgot to mention that since they are exiting that business they are all priced for $2.35 each.3

Forgot to thank you the other day. Got my kit out and ordered every size they have that I don't.

 

[kxlexus]

I ordered 22 different sized hole saws from them today. Never find a better deal. I doubt I will ever use most of them but I have em if I need em

 

[FMC1959]

If I use a forstner bit should I still drill from both sides? And use a plywood backer? What I want to drill into is Douglas fir I believe. It isn't a nice piece of wood, very utilitarian, but I still want it to come out nice and clean and, most importantly, I don't want a bunch of splinters that will scratch my blanks up

You shouldn't use Forstners for that. Forstners are more for woodworking, less for through cutting, more for when you need a clean flat bottom hole. For clean holes, augers are much quicker and make clean holes.

Bi-metal holesaws are good all around for wood and metal, but if you want a great holesaw dedicated for wood, these are tops
http://www.holecutterstore.com/blue-boar-mega-tct-master-electrician-kit.html

Milwaukee makes the Hole Hawgs but the Blue Boars are a bit better.

 

[nutsnbolts]

You shouldn't use Forstners for that. Forstners are more for woodworking, less for through cutting, more for when you need a clean flat bottom hole. For clean holes, augers are much quicker and make clean holes.

Bi-metal holesaws are good all around for wood and metal, but if you want a great holesaw dedicated for wood, these are tops
http://www.holecutterstore.com/blue-boar-mega-tct-master-electrician-kit.html

Milwaukee makes the Hole Hawgs but the Blue Boars are a bit better.

Good to know, thank you!

 

[skruft]

Be careful with large hole saws like 6" because they can catch in the wood (esp if you do not go straight) and you can be hurt if you are using a powerful drill that kicks back. I try to brace the drill handle. I knew someone who deliberately used a drill that was not too powerful.

 

[DHCrocks]

Be careful with large hole saws like 6" because they can catch in the wood (esp if you do not go straight) and you can be hurt if you are using a powerful drill that kicks back. I try to brace the drill handle. I knew someone who deliberately used a drill that was not too powerful.

you can put the drill in clutch mode. just use the highest setting and that should give you enough torque but has the safety margin of not twisting your wrist off if it gets stuck.

 

[James-W]

I just buy the ones that I need. I don't see much sense in buying a complete set and then only using maybe a quarter of them.

 

[rick carpenter]

So what is the practical difference in hole saw blade material? Just naming a few, Bosch offers "carbon" blades, Milwaukee and Lenox offer bi-metal, and Diablo offers carbide.

Most people say bi-metal for hole saw blades and I know I wouldn't go wrong with Milwaukee or Lenox, but I also know I wouldn't buy anything but Diablo carbide tip circ saw blades.

 

[tarbellb]

Carbon steel = softest material, will cut wood fine but struggle and dull with steel

Bi-metal = cuts wood fine, will cut metal better then carbon steel, better overall lifetime.

Carbide = again wood is fine, will cut metals maybe even some exotic types, likely best for metals but Carbide is prone to chipping.

Best bet is likely the Bi-metal, great for both wood and steel, should last a long time if treated properly, cheaper then Carbide.

 

[FMC1959]

Be careful with large hole saws like 6" because they can catch in the wood (esp if you do not go straight) and you can be hurt if you are using a powerful drill that kicks back. I try to brace the drill handle. I knew someone who deliberately used a drill that was not too powerful.

If you check the Blue Boar link and click one of the kits, they have a note at the bottom the description recommending a cordless drill over a corded drill for that very reason.

Carbon steel = softest material, will cut wood fine but struggle and dull with steel

Bi-metal = cuts wood fine, will cut metal better then carbon steel, better overall lifetime.

Carbide = again wood is fine, will cut metals maybe even some exotic types, likely best for metals but Carbide is prone to chipping.

Best bet is likely the Bi-metal, great for both wood and steel, should last a long time if treated properly, cheaper then Carbide.

Bi-Metal is a good all around choice. Where people will take care to use cutting oil on metal to prevent burning, you actually need to take care with wood also. A steady feed and stay at 90 degrees best possible. A heavy feed and not staying at the correct angle can smoke the cutters with wide cutters