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Purpose of Flare Wrenches?

cliftonbros89

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They also work good on hydraulic lines, especially 12 point. Some times those are in tight quarters or fittings are close together, regular open ends don't always fit the greatest. I really like the 12 point Martin flare nut wrenches.


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stage20

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You would be amazed as to how well they actually work.

Have you honestly tried a set? Besides Bonney, Proto and Snap On both make them....so no excuse to not try them.:thumbup:
and the multiple angles you can put them in compared to the 6 point.
we all know how difficult it can be when the wrench wont fit where you want it.
i have a few heated and bent ones for this purpose.
i have several bonney, plomb and proto 12 point line wrenches id put up against most any 6 point line wrench except maybe snap on or sk. they are stout!

open end wrench will slide the corner of a brass or aluminum fitting off like hot butter
 

DudeManSpecial

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Pretty rare here in Western PA we would take a flare nut off without replacing the brake line anyhow so usually just cut the line and use a 6pt
 

buffalobill

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Lol, yep, same here in wny, everything corrodeS so bad around here you can't even count on the fastener to be the original size.
 

bubinga

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Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
A little heat goes a long way.
Not so much the fitting is rusted into the brake hose or wheel cylinder,
But the fitting is rusted to the line.
heating the fitting just shy of cherry bomb red, cracking it loose, and hitting with oil, or PB blaster or some such, and you're golden.
Tip, make sure you can open your bleed valve(s) before giving a quote.
before heating the fitting, open the valve, to relieve pressure.
First time a Brake hose explodes and bangs like a firecracker, it will scare the he)) out of you.(Usually wont Usually! won't explode if you open valve. be sure you have glasses on. Should have cutting glasses even with a torch.
 

SteveH-CO

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Southern Colorado
RE: Arizona: Heat fasteners, or torch them off? Nope. Never.

It's so dang hot in AZ, your fasteners are already 'heated' - a torch would just be a waste. Just had to add that!
 

MikeF2316

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Thornhill, ON
I agree with the statement that Craftsman ones are junk. I have a set, they do work if you back them up with vise-grips. That is, after putting the wrench on the fitting, squeeze vise-grips on the wrench as hard as you can to stop the jaws from spreading.
 

48548

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Here is my sk on top and snappy on the bottom... the both look like flank drive....

708d127c14cfe1d802e7639f30c83826.jpg
af5c08c5539326815250b0c902f422e3.jpg
b3137f574ffc6ef9227d588e07fcbf44.jpg
 

Schurkey

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Flare nut wrench (a.k.a. line wrenches) grip all corners of the nut, reducing the chance or slipping.
The flare wrench distributes the force evenly across all six sides rather than just two sides.
Better count the "corners" that get gripped with a proper flare-nut wrench.

(Keep in mind that a certain brand of ultra-crappy despicable Chinese Junk tools only grip FOUR corners, instead of the five corners gripped by a proper flare-nut wrench.)
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-61357.html

I agree with the statement that Craftsman ones are junk. I have a set, they do work if you back them up with vise-grips. That is, after putting the wrench on the fitting, squeeze vise-grips on the wrench as hard as you can to stop the jaws from spreading.
Yup, that sounds right.



Finest flare-nut wrenches I've seen were made by Snap-On for about one year. I have no idea why they were disco'd. My local Snap-On guy couldn't even get me one when they were current. One end was the typical 5-point flare nut wrench, the other end was a "ratcheting" open end.

Mac also sold wrenches like this, but they weren't as heavy-duty. I have a 13mm Mac flare/ratcheting open end.

Snap-On RSXS (SAE) or RSXSM (metric) series, Mac COBR series.

The lower wrench is the Mac COBR13
Flare_Nut_Metric_forsale_04.jpg
 

turnthewrench

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I agree with the statement that Craftsman ones are junk. I have a set, they do work if you back them up with vise-grips. That is, after putting the wrench on the fitting, squeeze vise-grips on the wrench as hard as you can to stop the jaws from spreading.

Just out of curiosity... Does this apply to Chicom CM, USA CM, or both? I bought a set of CM Pro USA back in 2009 and so far so good. I'm DIY only though, and I've used them a few times doing break lines, etc.

Thanks
 

sberry

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Maybe the China ones are better, I cant see making them worse. They are right behind the ratchet as Sears most pitiful tool. The Sears ratchet has to be the worlds worst tool considering on how many were made and for how long, wonder how many millions of them have been replaced? I finally gave up and sold some at a yard sale for a dollar just to get rid of them.
 
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sberry

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Pretty rare here in Western PA we would take a flare nut off without replacing the brake line anyhow so usually just cut the line and use a 6pt

Same here, this is why I wonder about all the fuss of hurting brake fittings? Even if I do re use an old one don't care if I leave a mark on it. There are other places flares are needed and used but brake work not so much, its really a place for 2 sets of Vgrips.
I will also agree with the guy above referring to 12's for hyd work, there is a place for those too if its something a guy faces regularly. I have a drawer for these type of wrenches and keep them off the service carts. I will walk over and get one on the occasion I really need it. I also have a 3 pc set I bought off the counter at the parts store that has a hinged jaw that acts as a ratchet. They are really strong, only use them as real problem solvers but they are really good. They grip tight and have been a saver the few times I use them and will have to get a better pic.
 

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mfewtrail

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Just out of curiosity... Does this apply to Chicom CM, USA CM, or both? I bought a set of CM Pro USA back in 2009 and so far so good. I'm DIY only though, and I've used them a few times doing break lines, etc.

Thanks

Your experience with line wrenches is going to vary depending on the level of corrosion or rust you have to deal with. On very clean cars, even the cheapest ones will probably serve you just fine. With rust or specific types of corrosion, you need better ones to have a chance at removing the nuts without rounding them off.
 

kythri

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Just out of curiosity... Does this apply to Chicom CM, USA CM, or both? I bought a set of CM Pro USA back in 2009 and so far so good. I'm DIY only though, and I've used them a few times doing break lines, etc.

Thanks

The majority of complaints about Craftsman flare nut wrenches are centered on the old USA-made raised-panel style, not the full-polish chrome style (though, there's a handful of complaints about those, likely just from the Craftsman-bashing bandwagon).

The full-polish chrome ones (made by pre-Ideal SK, I believe) generally got high marks.
 

sberry

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You can see them in the top of the drawer if the pic is blown up. They are like a lot of tools that cost extra, they have their place. Often it sounds like I am anti Snapon but I am not. I have a few but simply don't have every one they ever invented in every size. I answer differently to a newbie that doesn't already have an adequate supply of basics than to someone that wants to add a set of premium tools.
Have my Snaps been "worth it" ? The answer would be yes especially as problem solvers where the 30$ wrench saved the day once in a while. But this is in a busy variety shop and a young sprout that has little or no tools could and should put them down a ways on the list and will find he may need only a few especially in smaller sizes for difficult fasteners.
I have still been meaning to get a FD in 5/16 but I am usually past it and forget, its not a deal breaker after all the years. I lost a 7/16 and replaced it along with a 5/8 which I later found and would probably trade for the little one,,, ha I have a couple in 1/2 and one of the only sprung jaw wrenches I own, again not much of a problem as I got it for the box anyway. I had 2 9/16 too but think one may have been lost which is a way bigger concern than breakage.
I don't think I have used them in months and finally segregated them from the stuff we use daily, some hundreds of times for every use of a premium one.
 

bcradio

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The majority of complaints about Craftsman flare nut wrenches are centered on the old USA-made raised-panel style, not the full-polish chrome style (though, there's a handful of complaints about those, likely just from the Craftsman-bashing bandwagon).

The full-polish chrome ones (made by pre-Ideal SK, I believe) generally got high marks.

And the China made ones. I bought some of those and they were terrible. Sold them off for Snap-On and will say they are well worth it.
 

MikeF2316

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Just out of curiosity... Does this apply to Chicom CM, USA CM, or both? I bought a set of CM Pro USA back in 2009 and so far so good. I'm DIY only though, and I've used them a few times doing break lines, etc.

Thanks

I had both. A smaller one for brake pipes (probably the 10-11) was USA. And a complete set of Chicom. All raised panel. In fact the set were the first non-USA Craftsman I bought, I didn't realize it at the time. I'm not sure what I did with them, they're not in my toolbox anymore. And since my car was/is a Volvo, they had copper nickle lines and fittings that didn't rust, so they were always the correct size, not rusted down.
 

sberry

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And since my car was/is a Volvo, they had copper nickle lines and fittings that didn't rust, so they were always the correct size, not rusted down.
This actually comes up on quality of tools quite often with recommendations. We see stuff endorsed because a guy uses it on his hobby car but I am always somewhat skeptical about advice ( not targeted at the poster I quote) but I always get a kick when someone says it doesn't work cause they are brutal working on their hobby Jeep etc. My experience with most things I elaborate on are due to hundreds and thousands of uses, often over decades.
 

MikeF2316

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This actually comes up on quality of tools quite often with recommendations. We see stuff endorsed because a guy uses it on his hobby car but I am always somewhat skeptical about advice ( not targeted at the poster I quote) but I always get a kick when someone says it doesn't work cause they are brutal working on their hobby Jeep etc. My experience with most things I elaborate on are due to hundreds and thousands of uses, often over decades.

I think it's safe to say if it doesn't work very well on one that isn't rusty, it's not going to work very well on one that is rusty.
 
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