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Your fav concrete block wall mount hdwe

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Leaflessshadetree

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Joined
Aug 1, 2013
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7,152
Location
Don't ask.
I've had good luck with tape, glue, tapcons, plastic anchors, wooden pegs, wedge anchors etc.
It all depends on what you are mounting.
 

dw1

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
1,335
Location
Ky
Something Heavy I use Lead anchors using a hollow wall set, less weight- tapcons or plastic anchors.
 
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R

RStewart

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Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
1,764
Location
a little north of boston
Plan on some type of a single shelf on an L bracket to display vintage car jacks, ratcheting type, and heavier items might be vintage floor jacks such as walker mechanical etc. On the wall is off the floor and I think that is a good thing. But they will be easily accessible for use if needed.
 

JazzBlueRT

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Jun 11, 2017
Messages
1,215
For anything from lightweight to heavy 100 lbs plus. Your successes only please unless you have pix of the failures for how not to do it.
Thanks

Ovrrr time, all plastic will become brittle. Always use lead or the blue screws.
 

wssix99

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Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,159
Location
Chicago, IL
Falcons and toggler anchors are my go-to, but it really depends on the article being hung and the application.
 

theoldwizard1

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Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,142
Location
SE MI
For light to medium weight items, I use Red Head Poly Set anchors. Yes, they are a "glorified" drywall plastic anchor. For light items, plastic drywall anchors work fine. The #12 screws are too short for mounting anything thick (like 2by lumber). You may not find #12 screws at your average hardware store, but any fastener store will have them.

I found some guy on eBay clearing out stock from an old hardware store and bought a package of 100 without screws for less than $10.
 

xyster101

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Joined
Jul 3, 2013
Messages
640
Location
Upstate NY
For something big a lag with lead insert works great on solid walls. If you are going in to hollow CMU blocks then get an anchor that will expand once it is past the 3/4" thick CMU wall.

If you don't want to pay the high price for a blue tapcon screw, just drill the hole, insert a piece of 12 gauge wire and put in a normal construction screw. That is how I fastened my OSB to my CMU walls. Saved a ton of $$ plus I had a bunch of scrap 12 gauge wire from wiring the shop.
 

rt dak

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Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
714
Location
Putnam County, NY
All my wall cabinets are on french cleats attached with toggle bolts. Gear wall panels use lead shield anchors. Lighter stuff like signs / brackets use either plastic anchors or tapcons.
 
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MDM

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Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
56
Location
Florida
Toggler for hollow block. Tapcons for concrete and poured cells.
 

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Finky198

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Feb 25, 2014
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2,120
Location
North East
Anything by Hilti, Tapcon, Redhead. Seems to do the job. I use to install commercial AV systems and that's what we were supplied with. The type used just depends on the surface, weight, and mounting position...
 

RivennHewn

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Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
10,370
Location
PNW
For heavy items, or just a rock solid, secure connection to empty block I use Hiliti epoxy screen tubes.
 

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tmcquinn

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Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
187
Location
Cincinnati
The lead anchors hold better than Tapcons?

I had a bad run with Tapcons, then I actually read the instructions. Drilling to the proper depth and blowing out the hole with compressed air changed the experience for me. I can't believe how many of them I broke off before I learned...
 

tmcquinn

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Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
187
Location
Cincinnati
The lead anchors hold better than Tapcons?

I had a bad run with Tapcons, then I actually read the instructions. Drilling to the proper depth and blowing out the hole with compressed air changed the experience for me. I can't believe how many of them I broke off before I learned...
 

dogdog

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Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
For heavy items, or just a rock solid, secure connection to empty block I use Hiliti epoxy screen tubes.

I used something like this setup for my shelves / work bench/ just some places for things to collect and mount.. it's 1/2 anchoring with sleeves... and used the two part epoxy if the holes were chipped too large..... it is harder to get accurate holes on these concrete cinder block walls.... so far so good more than few hundred pounds on each shelves.

This one...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head...x-Head-Sleeve-Anchors-25-Pack-11285/100201816
 

Lelandwelds

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Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
2,443
Location
Central Texas
Blue screws.

Once I had to use 1/2" HR RD welded to some angle iron for strength in shear. Used blue screws to hold tight against wall.
 

sherrod624

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Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
110
Location
Sims, NC
If you don't want to pay the high price for a blue tapcon screw, just drill the hole, insert a piece of 12 gauge wire and put in a normal construction screw. That is how I fastened my OSB to my CMU walls. Saved a ton of $$ plus I had a bunch of scrap 12 gauge wire from wiring the shop.


I just learned this trick about a year ago. IMO it is soooo much better than tapcons. could just be me but I always get about 75% of tapcons to work. they either shear, strip threads off the screw, strip out the hole, or something.

It depends on the hole you drill but I often drill a 3/16 hole and double over a piece of 12ga solid with the insulation still on it and shoot in a deck screw. it will change your life.
 

ptgarcia

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Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
1,202
Location
Alta Loma, CA
I've had good luck with the blue screws. Haven't done anything too heavy, but I used them to mount brackets for wire rope to which I then attached 100' of commercial cafe light stringer. There is a decent amount of tension on those brackets pulling straight out from the wall and they are holding fast.
 

Nivekdodge

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Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
99
Location
Pittsburgh PA
do Masons have a preference as to what doesn't destroy their work? I love tapcons and if you put some liquid nails on it....
 
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