To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Rebuilding a Do-All V-36 band saw

fuslit

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
7
Location
Fingerlakes, NY
I just wanted to chime in and say that you've done an amazing job so far! Also, thanks for taking the time to document the build from the ground up and rebuild info/advice (and links to info on where to learn more). I've learned quite a bit and can't wait to see the finished product.

-Todd
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Thank you, Todd.

I'm glad to hear it is of help. Much of what I have learned has come from others who took the time to document their work on the internet, so that others could learn from it. I figured it was about time I began to do the same!

I just wanted to chime in and say that you've done an amazing job so far! Also, thanks for taking the time to document the build from the ground up and rebuild info/advice (and links to info on where to learn more). I've learned quite a bit and can't wait to see the finished product.

-Todd


Update:

As soon as UPS arrives, I will have all the necessary tools and equipment needed to proceed with aligning the saw. Hopefully, the master precision level I bought will arrive in good condition. It's an oldie, but a goodie. It might actually pre-date the saw by 5-15 years.

Stay tuned!

:beer:
 

onewaydave

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
961
Location
Down the road from Dorothy and Toto
Hey, I'd be glad to do a search for your UPS tracking order...;)

What I'd really like to know is what DoAll's instructions are for moving one of these beasts. The owners operation manual has a chapter labeled as such but I've not been able to find a free one on line. I'm not ready to buy one 'cause I haven't bought the machine yet. I just thought it would be nice to have an idea in mind what is required. Any help you could throw our way?
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the tracking offer. I think the T-day holiday got in the way. If it doesn't show up by mid week, we'll be in touch.

All manuals for Do-All machinery can be found here, on Do-All's website:

http://www.doallsawing.com/pages.aspx?idpage=2

Do-All's instructions are limited to showing the rigging point and providing a weight.

I think the best way is with a forklift making use of a forged eyebolt in the rigging point per Do-All's instructions. It's always best to lift a machine from above the center of gravity, when possible. Lifting from overhead is far more stable than lifting from below. On the older machines, you have no choice but to lift from below. Use extreme care.

Place the machine on a trailer or truck with a WOODEN floor and screw 2x4 blocking to the floor using deck screws. Then, secure the machine from tipping in the short axis with at least two 10,000lb rated nylon straps. Don't use chains. They're for logs and coils of steel, not machines. Re-check your straps at 5, 20 and 50 miles then every gas stop afterwards. Nylon straps creep some after initial tightening.

Getting forks under an older Do-All is rather involved. Use a couple machine pry bars and lots of hardwood scrap to crib the machine up slightly more than the thickness of the forks. Then slide the forks under and pick it up. Don't rush!

Once off the truck on a hard surface a pallet jack and a couple pieces of 4x4 are all you need to easily and safely move the machine around and temporarily place it as you see in my photos.

A forklift in the 5,000 capacity range will be more than sufficient for moving a 36" Do-All. Forklifts of that capacity can be rented for approximately $125 a day plus delivery and pickup from most forklift dealers around the country. I have rented numerous forklifts when away from home-base and always experienced timely, expert service.

With the ready availability of forklifts I can't suggest ever rigging the "Egyptian" way as many people do. My local (35 miles) dealer will rent a 36,000lb forklift for $500 a day. It just doesn't make any sense to jeopardize a machine in an attempt to save a few hundred dollars. Request a pneumatic-tired forklift for anything other than perfectly flat, perfectly smooth concrete.

All the above is offered only as my opinion. The person in charge of rigging must be experienced and possess good judgement as he is ultimately responsible for the safety of the rigging operation.



Hey, I'd be glad to do a search for your UPS tracking order...;)

What I'd really like to know is what DoAll's instructions are for moving one of these beasts. The owners operation manual has a chapter labeled as such but I've not been able to find a free one on line. I'm not ready to buy one 'cause I haven't bought the machine yet. I just thought it would be nice to have an idea in mind what is required. Any help you could throw our way?
 

onewaydave

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
961
Location
Down the road from Dorothy and Toto
Thanks A_Pmech. You answered my question very thoughtfully. I have an older Hall & Brown 36" with C arm design. I asked because I am debating going DoAll but the comments pertain regardless.

BTW I about fell over on the chuck in a chuck tip you gave in an much earlier post. Unrelated to garages or equipment rehab, it solved a problem I had been stumped on for awhile.

Anxious for the continuation. Dave.
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Glad I could help, Dave!

Thanks A_Pmech. You answered my question very thoughtfully. I have an older Hall & Brown 36" with C arm design. I asked because I am debating going DoAll but the comments pertain regardless.

BTW I about fell over on the chuck in a chuck tip you gave in an much earlier post. Unrelated to garages or equipment rehab, it solved a problem I had been stumped on for awhile.

Anxious for the continuation. Dave.
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Finally! After sitting on pins and needles hoping this would arrive in the mail undamaged, it's here. My new (to me) master precision level.

According to the general manager of Pratt and Whitney, less than 10,000 master precision levels were made and production ceased in 1980. Pratt and Whitney tool was formed in 1860 and presumably began making levels shortly after. P&W tool will still service this instrument.

This P&W master precision level was made in the late 1930's to early 1940's. I purchased it from the grandson of the original owner, who owned a machine shop in the 1940's.

I now have all the tools to align the saw!

:beer:

pw1.jpg


pw2.jpg


pw3.jpg
 

Medwards

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2009
Messages
76
Location
TN
You have a neat collection of old iron and rare measuring instruments.

I'm comparing the picture of your master precision to my starret 98Z and wondering what makes the master precision so sensitive. I pondered this for a while when I bought a level. Is there something different about the vial that makes it precise to .0005"/ft. vs. my 98Z at .005"/ft. I can see that the base is more elaborate and probably more stable with temperature changes, but that doesn't add to the sensitivity. Is it the process it was made by?

I'm definetly curious about how your going to setup your saw. I can't follow the description very well, but it sounds involved.
 

DynoDale

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2008
Messages
369
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
The vials are made differently, but that's not apparent by looking at them. Temperature is controlled better by insulating the vial area from your hands with some type of plastic. The bases are different.

Starrett 199Z master precision level and 98-12 machinist level
Levels001.jpg

Caution label in the master level box:
Levels002.jpg

The bottom of the master level is scraped:
Levels003.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Thanks, Medwards.

My understanding is the vial is internally ground in a barrel shape with a difference in diameter of a few thousandths. Less sensitive levels generally use a vial which is slightly bent. They're less sensitive as the internal geometry and symmetry of the bend is not as precise nor as well controlled.

As the admonitions posted inside the box of Dale's 199 indicate, using a master precision level requires care. The bubble's width actually varies with temperature as the fluid changes in volume faster than the glass vial changes it's contained volume. The bubble should be precisely between the central lines at when the level is at 68F.

I believe the Starrett 98 is also a ground glass vial.

You have a neat collection of old iron and rare measuring instruments.

I'm comparing the picture of your master precision to my starret 98Z and wondering what makes the master precision so sensitive. I pondered this for a while when I bought a level. Is there something different about the vial that makes it precise to .0005"/ft. vs. my 98Z at .005"/ft. I can see that the base is more elaborate and probably more stable with temperature changes, but that doesn't add to the sensitivity. Is it the process it was made by?

I'm definetly curious about how your going to setup your saw. I can't follow the description very well, but it sounds involved.

Dale,

That's a nice 199 you have there! I was considering a 199 until I found this P&W. I'm kinda partial to stuff made by "that toolmaker from Hartford".

:)
 

tughill

New member
Joined
Dec 8, 2009
Messages
1
Hi AP,
I found this thread in a roundabout way, and am a new member to this forum because of it. Great job, and excellent work documenting your refurbish. I really don't want to sound nitpicky, but with all humility and due respect:

I do have a couple comments. Personally, I think the old way of using solid THHN formed is overly labor intensive. Panduit looks better and for a given # of wires will end up neater, in my opinion. If it gets messy/overly full, that just means whoever laid out the plate, did not spec the right size wireway (panduit). When making mods/changes, I feel wireways/panduit end up neater as well (generally). That said, your wiring is about as neat and clean as I've seen.

On this note, I think that generally your distribution terminal block should have fuses downstream sized for each smaller wire that leaves it, I would not rely on the main fuses to keep the magic smoke inside of smaller distribution wires.

When filing in a lathe, I was taught to run the lathe in reverse, and hold the file backwards/upside down. That way when the file catches the part (and it will, sooner or later) your likelihood of having children will not change, if you catch my meaning. (we all know that a file cuts in only one direction right? and that we should never, ever use a file without a handle, the sharp tang will stab you, and make you bleed like hell all over your tools).

And finally, even though I really liked your clamping method for holding your air pressure regulator nut, I think I would have gotten fired if I tried that in the machine shop I used to work in. Not for endangering man or machine, but for wasting time, as time is $$....I think it would be considerably faster to complete all machining operations 'on the bar' so to speak, then part it off, and finally finish the parted face by clamping in 3 jaw, very lightly (aligning with an indicator, of course). Although with a good parting tool, the finish of the parted face would be fairly reasonable as is.

Lastly, I realize that this machine had a few layers of paint, so a refinish was appropriate, but sometimes, I think that preserving an original finish, complete with battle scars is way better than the best refinishing job. (I am floored by the quality of your refinish, don't get me wrong) My first lathe, a southbend 9" from the mid 40's was just such a piece. Original, beautiful, scarred and marred paint, on an otherwise flawless machine. Definition of the word patina. My mentor, who I cannot praise enough, a machinist, tool and die maker, and engineer (later in life), and who is literally probably more intelligent and more clever than any other 10 people I know, thought the old dull gray paint looked tired, and completely disassembled, cleaned, adjusted and painted the machine. The overhaul made this extremely well preserved low hour machine even better, but it lost something with the new paint. I was too young at the time to care (not yet a teenager), but in a very small way I do regret it today. The machine is still a gem though, so I guess I can't complain.

Like I said, great job, I just wanted to share my .02$ worth of experience/opinion for the education of others. Thank you again for sharing.
 

Nealcrenshaw

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
3,401
Location
Cleveland,OH
I also can appreciate older machines and i do plan on trying my hand at rebuilding one or two,but i need a new machine to start off with as the "straghtedge" machine. its hard(at least it seems that way)to rebuild an old machine with old machines.

If i can at least start with a new or newer drill press then i'd feel comfortable in the process of rebuliding a mill,lathe,or a bandsaw or should i also add a new or newer mill and a lathe?

Just like John was able to rebuild this saw buy using his lathe and mill which seemed to be modern equipment.
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Hi Tughill,

Welcome!

Thank you for the compliments.

To clarify a few points you made:

I chose to make the bulkhead nut from 1/4" Aluminum plate because I did not have a piece of 3" Aluminum bar stock on-hand and I'm over 100 miles from the nearest supplier. It took me less time to make the nut than it would have taken for me to drive to the metals supplier and back. My wallet would also have been about $100 lighter, not including the cost of gas.

I didn't individually protect the distribution block wires because they're protected by the main power fuses, which are 20A. No wire under #12 is used anywhere and the control circuits are fused individually. Fusing is good, but I try to avoid redundant fusing as it makes troubleshooting more time-consuming.

Regarding Panduit, painting and filing, I think they're matters of preference. Depending on the tool, I sometimes leave the finish be. An example is my Pratt and Whitney level. It's a timeless design and has survived three generations with nary a ding. It shows it's age well and I like that. If the Do-All was still wearing it's original paint, I might have considered leaving it, if it didn't pose a rust problem. Unfortunately, it had about 6 coats of "porch paint".

The Pacemaker is a 10HP machine. Getting tangled up with it in any form is likely to be catastrophic, so I try to work in a manner which is comfortable for me and which allows me to work as safely as possible under the circumstances. Although I've read of both "forward" and "reverse" filing techniques, I wouldn't feel comfortable filing with the machine in reverse and my control of the file would likely suffer.

Of course, your mileage my vary. If we all did things the same way the world would certainly not be the innovative place it its.

:beer:

Nealcrenshaw said:
Just like John was able to rebuild this saw buy using his lathe and mill which seemed to be modern equipment.

It depends if you call 1970 "modern", I suppose. :)

Age isn't so much a factor as quality, condition, and performance. Rvanatta, for example, knows how to really drive a century-old cone head American. If you know the quirks and can compensate for them, you'll produce good work. Almost every machine has quirks.

That said, cheap machines will always be cheap machines regardless of how old they are. Old, worn-out top-line machines can be made to perform better than a brand new Chinese machine with a little finesse, but that cheap machine will never perform better than the day it left the factory.

That said, it helps to have a few "workable" machines to start. Many a broken lathe has made parts for itself, for example. Abused, neglected, or worn-out machines are, at best, "historic restoration" projects for another day.

So, you can refine the accuracy of your machines as you go!
 
Last edited:

bimmer1980

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
2,104
Location
York, PA
Hey A_P Mech... when are you starting on the alignment? I've been watching the posts on gathering the tools and was curious when you plan to start the alignment process....

As always, I know quality takes time......
 

allessence

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
18
I've been following your thread for about a week or so. I am amazed at the quality of your work and is a joy to see.


First thing I noticed in your video is your hands are very steady. My lunkers on the other hand barely can move a 1/4X20.


Thanks Jennifer
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
As soon as I've finished making hammers. :)

I ordered the Liquid Nitrogen I need to shrink fit the handles to the heads this afternoon and I'll be picking it up in the morning.

Hey A_P Mech... when are you starting on the alignment? I've been watching the posts on gathering the tools and was curious when you plan to start the alignment process....

As always, I know quality takes time......

Jennifer,

Thank you. You do good work too! Although I haven't posted much, I've been watching your various rebuild / shop threads on SFT. Keep up the good work! :thumbup:

They are for now! We'll see how that goes in 30 years or so...

Allessence said:
I've been following your thread for about a week or so. I am amazed at the quality of your work and is a joy to see.


First thing I noticed in your video is your hands are very steady. My lunkers on the other hand barely can move a 1/4X20.


Thanks Jennifer
 

mjozefow

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
2,111
Location
Lafayette, IN
I had the opportunity to use an old Do-All 26 a few days ago in the Ag machine shop here at Purdue. That thing is a beast! I didn't understand the scale of your undertaking until now!

I'll post up a pic when I get it off my phone. It is in beautiful shape and all original.
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Double the size and weight of the 26" and you're in the ballpark for the old V-36's.

:bounce:

Certainly! Let's see some photos! What kind of project were you working on?


I had the opportunity to use an old Do-All 26 a few days ago in the Ag machine shop here at Purdue. That thing is a beast! I didn't understand the scale of your undertaking until now!

I'll post up a pic when I get it off my phone. It is in beautiful shape and all original.
 
Last edited:

mjozefow

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
2,111
Location
Lafayette, IN


Excuse the poor cell phone pic!

The project was a bit of a joke for a machine of that scale. I was cutting some blanks of a DDGS/ biodegradable binder material I am working on for a class. I had to cut it into the proper sizes for doing some compress to failure, stress-relaxation, and triple point bending tests.

This machine seems to bee in really good shape to my untrained eyes. It hums quietly along and has raised my standards of what a band saw should be. The Powermatic in my HS shop was still a nice saw though.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Jay H 237

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
1,994
Location
Torrington, CT
The Powermatic in my HS shop was still a nice saw though.

Powermatic makes great high end machinery but they cater torwards the woodworkers while Do-All gears itself more to machine shops/metal working.
Rockwell (older Delta) made some great woodworking machines too in thier time.

In high school the woodshop had a Boice Crane spindle sander and that thing was built like a tank. I have never seen another Boice Crane tool since then and don't know anything about the company or thier products but it seemed well made and in the high end catagory. I would guess it was from the 50s or early 60s by the looks of it. No that I think of it I might go Google them and try to find out more.


I wish I had space and I could pick up some older machinery but that will come in time. I passed on a LaBlond metal lathe, would loved to have had it but couldn't take it.



EDIT: Here's a great site dealing with older woodworking tools, http://www.owwm.com/home.aspx

It appears B-C went under in the 80s. They were mostly consumer grade but did make some higher end stuff for education and industrial.
 
Last edited:

mjozefow

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
2,111
Location
Lafayette, IN
Powermatic made great high end machinery but they cater torwards the woodworkers while Do-All gears itself more to machine shops/metal working.

Fixed it! :)

The Powermatic is a great saw, but this one clearly had it edged out. I would take either though!
 
Last edited:
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Looks good, Mitch!

It's an older machine, for certain. The heavy band doors and the "bars" design of the die-cast nameplate tends to indicate that. Somewhere in the 60's they changed over to a new nameplate design.
 

allessence

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
18
Fixed it! :)

The Powermatic is a great saw, but this one clearly had it edged out. I would take either though!

I am new to this forum and have been hornswaggled in by the very interesting DoALL thread.

Just one month ago I bought a Powermatic model 87 1976, with a model 600 blade welder. Very nice machine in great shape. This was after 3 month search. One turned up 30miles away. Went threw it put a VFD drive on it, New belts, trans oil, cleaned it up, etc.

Runs mint. Cuts great.

I have an Early Johnson model JH Saw that uses 1" blades.

The Powermatic model 600 welder would do up to 3/4" by the manual.

So, here is a short story. I have the powermatic up and running for about a week and I look on Craiglist for Bandsaw. It comes up with a 3613-2 in Windsor Locks, CT. 500.00

Okay, I go and see it and he had it hooked up, it ran, the blade welder threw sparks. I bought it for 450.00.

The blade welder is the reason I went to look at the machine in the first place. Turns out I have an awesome 1960's DoALL 3613-2 and not enough room for the Powermatic (which is an awesome machine also). Just didn't have a big enough welder.

The picture of the wrong way to move a DoALL was mine. And I didn't move it that way once I got home.

Pound for Pound the DoAll 20" and the Powermatic 20" seem to be comparable on the newer models (1970's)

I can say, I like the 36" DoALL better than the Powermatic 20", but as pointed out they are really different machines. Not just in size but in the niceties. Real tach, real tension meter, 3 speed gear box. Mister attachment, weight feed, 36" capacity and a welder that will 2" carbon steel blades.

As it was said by a friend of mine DoALL is the Cadillac. I don't know enough to say yes or no, I do know this will be the last bandsaw I'll be buying. Unless I find room for a 6013-2:thumbup:
 

allessence

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
18
As soon as I've finished making hammers. :)

I ordered the Liquid Nitrogen I need to shrink fit the handles to the heads this afternoon and I'll be picking it up in the morning.



Jennifer,

Thank you. You do good work too! Although I haven't posted much, I've been watching your various rebuild / shop threads on SFT. Keep up the good work! :thumbup:

They are for now! We'll see how that goes in 30 years or so...
nealcrenshaw,

Thanks, I do my best and for the most part. Someday I hope to have the area to really be more involved with the restoration aspect of these machines, but for the time being I'm just keeping them alive.

A_Pmech, Thank you very much. I really appreciate people who are detailed oriented. And I love all the posting of the videos and info. Funny thing this thread came up just as I purchased my machine. And thanks for doing my Tach. It was bothering me to know end.
 

DrBob

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
6
Location
Rockland County, NY
A PMech,
I have been doing the internet since it was invented (Yes, I'm old)! and I have never seen anything remotely as amazing as your DoAll thread! I was so impressed that I followed you over here from SFT.

We older folks tend to shake our heads and bemoan the lack of motivated people who will give a project more than a 'lick and a promise'.

I am delighted to see that we are not always right!

I truly believe that when you are through with your V-36 it will run better than it did when it left the factory.

You are an inspiration to all of us who like to work with metal.

I can't wait to see your next post.

Speaking for those over at SFT we hope that you visit often and post some of your work there as well.

This seems to be a great forum and I hope to visit it a lot.

Thanks again,

DrBob
 

onewaydave

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
961
Location
Down the road from Dorothy and Toto
Dr Bob x2

Older than the internet? Wow. And I thought I was ancient 'cause my first computer course was submitted on punch cards.

I enjoy rehabs, of anything. But this thread has tips and a devotion to meticulousness that I've not seen very often. It is inspirational.
 

DrBob

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
6
Location
Rockland County, NY
Dr Bob x2

Older than the internet? Wow. And I thought I was ancient 'cause my first computer course was submitted on punch cards.QUOTE]

OWD, My first computer language was FORTRAN and it was indeed on punched cards. You had to write your program out by hand on 'forms' and convert the forms to punchcards. Then turn it in to the high priests of the computer (an old GENERAC). Sometime the next week you would get your printout - full of bugs of course so you could do it all again!

I was in the room in Manhattan when the first "Internet" connection was made - from a teletype keyboard in Manhattan to a "minicomputer" at University of California/ Berkley and then back to the teleprinter in the same room. The test message came back in about 10 minutes. Present in that room were the true "inventors" of the internet. The system architects who designed the basic HTML -URL-Server architecture. Not one of them ever got rich from it.
This of course was several years after the GENERAC. I think I had by then built an IMSAI and I was working with the brand new Z-80 CPU! That was later the basis for the famous TRS80 computer that got so many started in personal computing.

I remember reading about that time that a couple of fellows had made a deal with IBM to launch their new PC with a new operating system - PCDOS which became MSDOS. One was named Bill Gates.

(edit: Actually it must have been a few years later since the PC used the Intel 8080 chip which came after the Z80).

About then my medical studies kicked into high gear (I was at Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center - now Weil Cornell Columbia). and I had to stop spending time with my old computer friends.

Now I work with mostly kids in their young teens or younger. They all think I'm older than dirt - They may be right :)

Sorry to get off topic!

DrBob
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Dr. Bob,

Welcome and thank you!

For me, spacing out the "fun" work amongst the "boring" work helps to keep a project moving. That, and having a number of thread watchers demanding updates!

From the moment I saw the machine I decided to bring it back to as-new specification. So far, I feel I've succeeded in that. The Bridgeport will follow the same course. I'm building my shop for the future. I need accurate, capable, low-maintenance machinery for what is to come. This is the beginning of a much larger project.

I should also mention that the Z-80 is a familiar device to me. I've spent many hours with Z-80 and Z-80A development equipment. HTML, C, Visual Basic, etc. is Greek to me. I'm a hardware-level guy. The A-model is still a viable device for many automation applications. Although, microcontrollers with built-in peripherals are easier to use.

Welcome to GJ, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

A PMech,
I have been doing the internet since it was invented (Yes, I'm old)! and I have never seen anything remotely as amazing as your DoAll thread! I was so impressed that I followed you over here from SFT.

We older folks tend to shake our heads and bemoan the lack of motivated people who will give a project more than a 'lick and a promise'.

I am delighted to see that we are not always right!

I truly believe that when you are through with your V-36 it will run better than it did when it left the factory.

You are an inspiration to all of us who like to work with metal.

I can't wait to see your next post.

Speaking for those over at SFT we hope that you visit often and post some of your work there as well.

This seems to be a great forum and I hope to visit it a lot.

Thanks again,

DrBob
 
Last edited:

mjozefow

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
2,111
Location
Lafayette, IN
Let's see...A&P Mechanic...I'm guessing build his own airplane.

Steve


I foresee something along the lines of:

"Due to the fact that NASA's progress on building a viable SCRAM jet has slowed, I have decided to make one. However, mine will run on nothing but Illinois grown corn distillates"

JK, but I do await with anticipation for your updates.

[end hijack]
 
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
It's still in the planning phase but rest assured, if/when I begin there will be photos!

:)

Do tell...:thumbup:


Maybe... Maybe not...

:bounce:

Steve V. said:
Let's see...A&P Mechanic...I'm guessing build his own airplane.

Steve


:spit:

That's a good one!

mjozefow said:
I foresee something along the lines of:

"Due to the fact that NASA's progress on building a viable SCRAM jet has slowed, I have decided to make one. However, mine will run on nothing but Illinois grown corn distillates"
 
Last edited:
OP
A

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
I have an update to the purchase of my master precision level.

I received a package from Pratt and Whitney on Thursday. Inside were photocopies of an April 1954 catalog insert on the Master Precision Level. There were also a few extras, including a very low-numbered hardcover copy of P&W's book "Accuracy for Seventy Years".

For a company engaged in advancing science to spend time to provide the historical background on an instrument they manufactured seventy years ago is unprecedented. I think P&W understands they have a rich history and they want to preserve it. To me, that is the sign of a well run company. After all, if one isn't grounded in history they're doomed to repeat it.



Page1.jpg


Page2.jpg


Page3.jpg


Page4.jpg


extras.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mickey O

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,153
Location
Chicago, IL
I have an update to the purchase of my master precision level.

I received a package from Pratt and Whitney on Thursday. Inside were photocopies of an April 1954 catalog insert on the Master Precision Level. There were also a few extras, including a very low-numbered hardcover copy of P&W's book "Accuracy for Seventy Years".

For a company engaged in advancing science to spend time to provide the historical background on an instrument they manufactured seventy years ago is unprecedented. I think P&W understands they have a rich history and they want to preserve it. To me, that is the sign of a well run company. After all, if one isn't grounded in history they're doomed to repeat it.


Couldn't you have just used a Craftsman torpedo level? They're only a few bucks.









Just kidding, I'd hate to put that think on stuff I've "leveled". It's been a great thread I finally finished reading it all (great pictures too). Now it's your turn to finish up, I'm really impatient and need to see the finished saw next week. :lol_hitti



.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom