VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[JZiggy]

Oooh, the factory adjustable stop pin!! Nice! (I had to make one for mine).

My 4C is the newer style (stub spindle, removable jaws) and it does indeed have two holes in the main casting for hold-down bolts. Would be interesting to learn when the change from 1 to 2 took place.

 

[gman007]

Does any one have photos of a disassembled swivel base for the older Reed 200 series (204,205 etc)?

The reason I am asking is that I do not see to be able budge the swivel bolt on a Reed 204, and looking through the hole under the base I see something that makes me think the swivel "nut" might be broken and jammed. And I have no idea what the locking mechanism and the "nut" might even look like (which is not helping)


I have included two photos of the supposed swivel bolt looking through the hole in the bottom of the base. It is hard to take a clear photo as the hole in the base is very small and the reflection of the flash does not help either.

I am also not sure how to take out the main (center) swivel bolt (under the base) as this is not a hex bolt (like in most vises) but a pan head (single ****) bolt and is huge (1 3/4"). Any idea what tool do I need to handle this guy?

Thank you in advance for the help
007

 

[Outlawmws]

Don't the Reeds have a lock screw for that swivel base bolt?

 

[gman007]

Don't the Reeds have a lock screw for that swivel base bolt?

Outlaw
Thanks for the info.

I did search quite a bit and these are some photos that I found but I am not sure if these match what I am seeing through the stupid hole in the base.

It is amazing I seem to always get stuck on removing the something or another on EVERY vise (often it is the darn jaw insert screw) and on this one it is swivel base!

Regards
007

 

[Outlawmws]

If it does have a lock screw, it's on the main static jaw base, not the swivel part; and its easy to get covered in crud and paint and get missed... Look at the junction area of the main body to the base flange.

 

[Carla]

If it does have a lock screw, it's on the main static jaw base, not the swivel part; and its easy to get covered in crud and paint and get missed... Look at the junction area of the main body to the base flange.

I've dissected quite a few of the Reed 200 and 400 series swivel bases, over the years, and have never seen a lock screw for the centre-bolt, as may be found on some---but not all....older Athol vises. Of course, some individual owner could decide that his new Reed should have that bit of Athol quality detail.....and drill/tap to suit. I'd doubt it, but it doesn't hurt to have a good look.

What I can tell you is that removal of the Reed vise centre-bolt can be a rather seriously miserable job.

Most often, they will come loose, with enough torque applied. Improvising a scrap of steel to suit the head slot, then using a good heavy pipe or monkey wrench, with a long piece of pipe for leverage, to turn the improvised screw driver, usually works, if you've a really strong helper to pull the wrench.

Sometimes, they will be found well and truly rust-bound in situ........several methods may work, such as heating the screw head to a dull red with the torch, letting it cool to ambient, and applying Kroil-oil or equivalent, then rattling it with a brass-drift and 4lb. hammer to 'break the bond'.

The worst case is when one side of the screw slot breaks, and there is nothing for it but to improvise a vertical mill (Bridgeport class) setup to drill/bore out the screw. Fortunately, making a new replacement screw is dead easy, as they have a standard RH USS thread.

cheers

Carla

 

[gman007]

I've dissected quite a few of the Reed 200 and 400 series swivel bases, over the years, and have never seen a lock screw for the centre-bolt, as may be found on some---but not all....older Athol vises. Of course, some individual owner could decide that his new Reed should have that bit of Athol quality detail.....and drill/tap to suit. I'd doubt it, but it doesn't hurt to have a good look.

What I can tell you is that removal of the Reed vise centre-bolt can be a rather seriously miserable job.

Most often, they will come loose, with enough torque applied. Improvising a scrap of steel to suit the head slot, then using a good heavy pipe or monkey wrench, with a long piece of pipe for leverage, to turn the improvised screw driver, usually works, if you've a really strong helper to pull the wrench.

Sometimes, they will be found well and truly rust-bound in situ........several methods may work, such as heating the screw head to a dull red with the torch, letting it cool to ambient, and applying Kroil-oil or equivalent, then rattling it with a brass-drift and 4lb. hammer to 'break the bond'.

The worst case is when one side of the screw slot breaks, and there is nothing for it but to improvise a vertical mill (Bridgeport class) setup to drill/bore out the screw. Fortunately, making a new replacement screw is dead easy, as they have a standard RH USS thread.

cheers

Carla

Carla and outlaw
Thank you both for the input and suggestions. I was able to get the swivel bolt freed and indeed have of the "nut"/Brake is gone but is still functional with one half (obviously as I had heck of time getting it out

Now I have to deal with the center bolt. It seems my wonder bar (curved end) fits nicely but I need probably another set of hands to push down on the wonder bar when I am applying torque. So far I have emptied have can of Kroil on the stupid thing. If all fails I have to get help from a buddy who has acetylene torch to heat and cool it

Thanks again
007

 

[454ragtop]

A drag link socket works best for those giant slotted heads, used with either a pneumatic impact, or better yet the type of impact driver you hit with a hammer. A little heat never hurts either.

 

[KMScott]

I do not screw around and just weld a nut on to the shoulder bolt. The heat sure helps in breaking the rust seal. This shoulder bolt was rusted in pretty good but after welding the nut on it came out pretty easy. Removing the nut comes off pretty easy with a angle grinder. I fixed this shoulder bolt by welding a allen head cap screw head with good rod (Eutectic 680 TIG rod). I would not like working on vises with no welder or a torch.

 

[Shiftless]

A drag link socket works best for those giant slotted heads, used with either a pneumatic impact, or better yet the type of impact driver you hit with a hammer. A little heat never hurts either.

on the drag link socket.
I picked up a pair in different sizes at a garqge sale long ago when I really didn't even know what they were used for. Now they have come in handy a couple of times.

A pic in case somebody here doesn't know what we're talking about.

 

[Jp267]

A drag link socket works best for those giant slotted heads, used with either a pneumatic impact, or better yet the type of impact driver you hit with a hammer. A little heat never hurts either.

I was wondering what those were called. Thanks!

Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

 

[gman007]

on the drag link socket.
I picked up a pair in different sizes at a garqge sale long ago when I really didn't even know what they were used for. Now they have come in handy a couple of times.

A pic in case somebody here doesn't know what we're talking about.

ragtop, Reverend Scott, Shift, and Jp

Thank you all for great suggestions. I will try these out.

Reverend Scott
Your suggestion per usual is pretty ingenious.

Thanks much
007

 

[FJ 432]

wrong thread.

 

[Shiftless]

ragtop, Reverend Scott, Shift, and Jp

Thank you all for great suggestions. I will try these out.

Reverend Scott
Your suggestion per usual is pretty ingenious.

Thanks much
007

You're welcome...
And if you can't find one locally or don't want to pay all that money for a new one, just follow Carla's advice and grip a scrap of steel in a big wrench and twist away!
Carla has more experience than just about any of us. I have learned much from her, one of the few masters of the craft.

 

[Carla]

I do not screw around and just weld a nut on to the shoulder bolt. The heat sure helps in breaking the rust seal. This shoulder bolt was rusted in pretty good but after welding the nut on it came out pretty easy. Removing the nut comes off pretty easy with a angle grinder. I fixed this shoulder bolt by welding a allen head cap screw head with good rod (Eutectic 680 TIG rod). I would not like working on vises with no welder or a torch.

Well done, Kevin......thats an excellently practical technique........ : )

cheers

Carla

 

[gman007]

You're welcome...
And if you can't find one locally or don't want to pay all that money for a new one, just follow Carla's advice and grip a scrap of steel in a big wrench and twist away!
Carla has more experience than just about any of us. I have learned much from her, one of the few masters of the craft.

Shift
Actually before my post last week one of my buddies at work bought two drag link sockets (knowing that I was struggling with this bolt) one for himself and one for me (he said they were on sale for about $4 each) but the biggest he could get was a 1" and this was too small (both the width as well as it is too thin and slips out of the bolt ****). So next is Carl's suggestion and if that fails welding a hex nut (per Reverend Scott suggestion) is in order.
Thanks again
007

 

[454ragtop]

Shift
Actually before my post last week one of my buddies at work bought two drag link sockets (knowing that I was struggling with this bolt) one for himself and one for me (he said they were on sale for about $4 each) but the biggest he could get was a 1" and this was too small (both the width as well as it is too thin and slips out of the bolt ****). So next is Carl's suggestion and if that fails welding a hex nut (per Reverend Scott suggestion) is in order.
Thanks again
007

If you use the hammer type impact with your drag link socket, it will most likely come out.

 

[gman007]

If you use the hammer type impact with your drag link socket, it will most likely come out.

ragtop
I used an impact driver but since my drag link was just too small, a cut off washer did the job (see attached photos)! I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat


Carla, outlaw, ragtop, Reverend Scott and Shift
Thank you all so much for the help and great advice.

As much as everyone is justifiably impressed with the Reed vises (and this is my first Reed), I plan to travel back in time to 1908 and complain about this bolt to whoever designed it .

By the way, do later models of Reed all use the same type bolt, or did Reed eventually come to its senses and use a hex bolt (or something equally end user friendly) like everyone else?

Kindest regards
007

 

[Shiftless]

gman007:
Looks like you solved your problem with a clever little home made tool. Instances such as these show why somebody needs to keep a small supply of sacrificial sockets handy. Cut a slot with a grinding wheel and make a custom jumbo drag link socket.

And don't forget to pick up a few items from the past on your way back with that time machine.

 

[Provincial]

Reed didn't have to worry about removing that bolt. Very few vises needed the base separated in the field, and at that time age and rust hadn't glued the bolt in place. Large slotted fasteners were pretty standard back then, since slots were easier and cheaper to make than hexes. Old timers were very practiced at removing large slotted fasteners, and they did in without power impact tools!

 

[gman007]

gman007:
Looks like you solved your problem with a clever little home made tool. Instances such as these show why somebody needs to keep a small supply of sacrificial sockets handy. Cut a slot with a grinding wheel and make a custom jumbo drag link socket.

And don't forget to pick up a few items from the past on your way back with that time machine.

shift
Cheers .

By the way I have attached two photos comparing the 1" drag link which is the biggest I could find locally (today actually I did on line search and could not see anything bigger either) and my contraption. Notice that both the width and thickness of the drag link fall short.
007

 

[gman007]

Reed didn't have to worry about removing that bolt. Very few vises needed the base separated in the field, and at that time age and rust hadn't glued the bolt in place. Large slotted fasteners were pretty standard back then, since slots were easier and cheaper to make than hexes. Old timers were very practiced at removing large slotted fasteners, and they did in without power impact tools!

Provincial
Thanks much for the educational info.
007

 

[drivesitfar]

ALL: this might be a question for the guys across the pond, but i know some of you have these MADE IN ENGLAND RECORD VICES.

so i have a almost new in the original box 6 inch Record vice with MADE IN ENGLAND on the side and a Quick release 6 inch Record that is just in average condition.

since i was going to take the quick release apart anyway to clean it up so it would work better can i swap the guts on it with the non quick release model to have an almost new made in england quick release vice to put on my bench?

i'm always enjoying reading all of your posts and sorry i have been busy this summer and haven't had as much time to comment. thank you all for using this thread and helping and learning as was my intention when i started it so many years ago.

BTW i haven't taken a Record vice apart yet cause it looks like and i've been told they are a pain in the **** so if any of you have pictures and step by step methods to help me (and others) i'd appreciate it. thanks in advance.

cheers

 

[Shiftless]

Drives:
Welcome back

Remember that sometimes with those complicated vise dissassembly jobs that it is better to let sleeping dogs lie.

 

[2oolhound]

What timing! I recently bought this Reed 104 1/2 vise but it was missing the centre bolt. I'm not real fond of the nylon jaws on this vise as it's such a solid vise to be using such delicate jaws with. Anyone know if original steel replacements are available and the cost?

When I was buying it I figured all it needed was a 7/8" unf threaded stud to thread in with a 1 1/4" shank to centre in the opening and I'd just cut a slot in the end to aid in threading it in.

Now looking at yours gnan007 I see there is a head on the end to actually hold it together and not just be a centring guide. I've already started cutting a stud from an old ford 4x4 axle with the right diameter to act as a guide but it won't be wide enough to include a head.

I have a section cut down to the right size to cut threads (7/8" UNF).

At this point I'll have to make a 1 3/4" or so disc to weld on the end of my stud to form a head and then weld an allen headed socket cap on that like KMScott has shown.

 

[Carla]

What timing! I recently bought this Reed 104 1/2 vise but it was missing the centre bolt. I'm not real fond of the nylon jaws on this vise as it's such a solid vise to be using such delicate jaws with. Anyone know if original steel replacements are available and the cost?

When I was buying it I figured all it needed was a 7/8" unf threaded stud to thread in with a 1 1/4" shank to centre in the opening and I'd just cut a slot in the end to aid in threading it in.

Now looking at yours gnan007 I see there is a head on the end to actually hold it together and not just be a centring guide. I've already started cutting a stud from an old ford 4x4 axle with the right diameter to act as a guide but it won't be wide enough to include a head.

I have a section cut down to the right size to cut threads (7/8" UNF).

At this point I'll have to make a 1 3/4" or so disc to weld on the end of my stud to form a head and then weld an allen headed socket cap on that like KMScott has shown.

Hello, 2oolhound,

Yes, you could do as you describe, and, yes, it would work alright, but if I may make a suggestion, it would be to find a scrap of common mild steel of suitable diameter to copy the original part. The original shoulder-screw would have been a common mild steel, which is quite adequately strong for the purpose.

That Ford axle is likely to be 4140, or something equally hard/tough, which will make running a thread 'single-point' with that light lathe a bit of a challenge.

cheers

Carla

 

[Maui]

Or just buy a bolt of the right size from Fastenal or Grainger.

 

[2oolhound]

Thanks for the advise on this. I found this pdf on Reeds site showing parts for a similar vise (2C, 3C and 4C) showing part #11 where a bolt to fit the threads is used with a spacer/sleeve/centring guide is used over the bolt.

https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/vises/combination-bench-and-pipe-vises/#tabs/parts. This would be easier yet to make.

My jaw faces with their T shape seem harder to find.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Or just buy a bolt of the right size from Fastenal or Grainger.

Maui:
You're right. However, if I had access to a lathe, I'd make the bolt also. It's more fun.
However, with the Reed restoration that I started yesterday, I'll have to settle for a bolt, cut it to size and make the sleeve out of a pipe fitting.

 

[gman007]

Maui:
You're right. However, if I had access to a lathe, I'd make the bolt also. It's more fun.
However, with the Reed restoration that I started yesterday, I'll have to settle for a bolt, cut it to size and make the sleeve out of a pipe fitting.

Mark and 2ool
For whatever it is worth, I have uploaded some photos for the various dimensions of the center bolt for a Reed 204 (2ool, I am not sure how do the dimensions for 104 1/2 being a 4 1/2" vise scale up).

Regards
007

 

[KMScott]

Could make it on a bridgeport if you have a die. I made this one for mt Reed 1C.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

007:
Thanks foot the information.

KM:
As good as you are, I bet you could cut the threads without a die.

 

[Fretters]

Yes, you could do as you describe, and, yes, it would work alright, but if I may make a suggestion, it would be to find a scrap of common mild steel of suitable diameter to copy the original part. The original shoulder-screw would have been a common mild steel, which is quite adequately strong for the purpose.

Same as Carla, I'd be using suitably sized stock to duplicate it. Kevin's method obviously works, but with restorations, the devil is in the detail. Using Carla's method will give you a replacement which sees us out.

 

[454ragtop]

I find it's quicker and easier to replace missing center bolts with a std bolt of the correct thread and a lathe turned bushing with a shoulder. Once the vise is bolted to the bench, no one is seeing the center bolt anyway.

 

[drivesitfar]

ALL: more times than not those big screws on my Reed vises have been loose or just hand tight. so far i've been able to get the few that were on tight loose with my drag sockets.

 

[drivesitfar]

ALL: here's what my 2 6 inch wide jaw Record made in England vices look like. i'm wondering if any of you have tried to swap out the guts on yours? i don't have the quick release handy and not exactly sure where it is now, but trying to get some information prior to me taking them apart.

CRS: thanks for the PM letting me know there is an exploded view of the Record vices over on i think you said the history of vises thread so if you have time to post the link here i'd appreciate it or better yet the exploded views.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Drives: Here they are with a cutaway view for good measure. Thanks again to Cwazy Wabbit for posting the catalog scans in the first place. Here's a link to the thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283430&highlight=vise+manufacturers&page=6

 

[gman007]

ALL: more times than not those big screws on my Reed vises have been loose or just hand tight. so far i've been able to get the few that were on tight loose with my drag sockets.

drives
Your vise looks very clean with no rust which also helps a lot. Now that I have my 204 bolt out and cleaned up and greased up, there is no problem tightening and losing it.
007

 

[2oolhound]

Thanks for the pointers on the 4140 steel Carla. My atlas lathe struggled to hog out the end of that shaft to create a spacer. I didn't have a suitable piece of steel to make the one piece bolt on the lathe but discovered a few lengths of all thread with 7/8 unf threads under my bolt bin so I took the easy route. Thanks Gman for the details of the bolt and everyone else for the advice offered. I figured the height of the spacer section is the most important so the swivel doesn't bind to the bottom of the vise when you tighten the bolt.

Here's what I went with:

This shot shows the all thread and spacer in place before I welded the nut on the all thread to create the bolt in the 1st pic. The centring spacer sits just above the boss so it doesn't lock up when you tighten the bolt.

It all works nicely so I just need to find a second lock tooth and nut assembly (I only have one on the one side) and eventually I want to get steel jaw faces. I may wait till I get a small mill for the jaw faces but I'd like to find the 2nd lock down assembly for the other side asap.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

All:

Working on an old Reed 204 vise. The center bolt and bushing is missing. Pictures and story of making a new bolt/bushing to be posted in the near future.

The threads in the body needed to be cleaned up. I didn't want to invest in an expensive tap to use only once. So using a cut off wheel, I cut some slots in the end of a 7/8-20, G-8 bolt, and used it as my tap. Pictured below.

After cleaning out the threads, I was able to cut down the bolt to the length I needed for this vise repair.