Hello everyone. Been lurking for a while admiring everyone's builds and trying to organize mine. I plan to put a 40x60x12 building on my property, 60 foot lean to, small shelter over front entry. Three 10x10 overhead doors on front, 9x9 on rear, two entry doors, and about 5 Windows. I have quotes on stick built and pole built and the numbers are almost breathtaking, but have seen some decent looking carolina style buildings from a local company which are much cheaper. I had originally wanted 14 foot walls to accomafate a future boat with a ttop, but it doesn't seem like it's worth the extra cost. Does anyone have recommendations on the carolina style in regards to its longevity and ability to finish the inside/wire? I like stick built for the ease of modification and finishing. Quotes on pole from Morton is 97k insulated, no electricity or plumbing. Stick built turn key around the price of the Morton. Waiting on the quote on the carolina style which should come today. Thanks in advance.
Opinions on carolina carport style building
- Thread starter fredcrna
- Start date
readhead
Well-known member
Where are you located?
ticklechicken
Well-known member
When I was going through this same decision, I discovered that I could get a Carolina Carports building with closed cell foam for the same price as a bare building of more substantial or traditional build quality. My personal conclusion was that a CC building that is completely sealed with foam and also structurally reinforced by the foam would outperform any other type of structure. Plus, the insulation is awesome.
I finished the inside of mine by painting the ceiling a high gloss white and covering the walls with 3/4" plywood. I'm very happy with the results, both aesthetically and functionally. Below is a picture after I took during my mini-split install. It's the best I have at the moment.
My plywood is set off the walls with 3/4" furring strips. My electrical is going to be surface mount in EMT. I considered using thicker furring strips and hiding all the electrical. It would have looked better, but it had some downsides. The first is the ease of change in the future. The second and more important was my sequence of building the shop. It was a whole lot easier for me to complete the walls early in the process, way before I had a final electrical plan.
I'm in FL, so I'm also worried about hurricanes. The bare building is rated for 150 mph. You can get a 180 rating by simply upgrading the gauge on the exterior metal panels. I figure my foam accomplishes that plus more, so I didn't get that upgrade. No problems during Irma, but we only got gusts around 90 mph where I'm at.
I finished the inside of mine by painting the ceiling a high gloss white and covering the walls with 3/4" plywood. I'm very happy with the results, both aesthetically and functionally. Below is a picture after I took during my mini-split install. It's the best I have at the moment.
My plywood is set off the walls with 3/4" furring strips. My electrical is going to be surface mount in EMT. I considered using thicker furring strips and hiding all the electrical. It would have looked better, but it had some downsides. The first is the ease of change in the future. The second and more important was my sequence of building the shop. It was a whole lot easier for me to complete the walls early in the process, way before I had a final electrical plan.
I'm in FL, so I'm also worried about hurricanes. The bare building is rated for 150 mph. You can get a 180 rating by simply upgrading the gauge on the exterior metal panels. I figure my foam accomplishes that plus more, so I didn't get that upgrade. No problems during Irma, but we only got gusts around 90 mph where I'm at.
John in OH
Well-known member
I'm not familiar with the term "carolina style" (except as it applies to barbeque!!!).
Can you post a couple of pics showing a typical carolina style carport/building for us Yankees?
Can you post a couple of pics showing a typical carolina style carport/building for us Yankees?
https://www.superiormsc.com
This is the company I'm getting a quote from. They have multiple pics of their structures and their Facebook page has more images than their site.
This is the company I'm getting a quote from. They have multiple pics of their structures and their Facebook page has more images than their site.
The quote I am getting is with their insulation package, which isn't spray. I would do something similar to what you have done in regards to the walls but would probably run the electrical inside the walls by using thicker strips and placing osb on top of that.
58Yeoman
Well-known member
Ask for references in your area. I've seen threads on forums where they weren't put up right, etc. Your area may be different. Also, do a google search for CC problems, etc.
The company putting these up have rave reviews from everyone in my area. They aren't carolina carport brand..just similar design. They have double trusses as well. Just wondering if I will be as happy with one as a stick or pole build and if their longevity is similar. Don't want to build the shop but once.
ticklechicken
Well-known member
It's kinda like how Kleenex means facial tissue. Carolina Carports is a very large producer of metal buildings and has become a generic term for metal building.
Myself and several friends have CC shops, and we've all had issues. It would be easy to blow all of these issues out of proportion on the internet, but the reality is that they were all addressed and solved with a few phone calls and an extra week of waiting. Is it worth saving $5-10k to be slightly inconvenienced?
I failed my building final because there weren't enough screws attaching my door jambs to the structure. It was clearly stated on the print, and the crew just got lazy. I went to Home Depot, bought the screws, installed them, and passed the injection two days later. Took a total of three hours extra of my time. Many people would have flamed CC on all over the internet for that. They would have spent more time on the keyboard then it would have taken to fix the problem. I had clear expectations. I'm happy.
I love my 24x36 CC. But similar to above, I did spray foam insulation (mine is open cell). It is tight as a tick except for the top of the rollup doors, which requires creative solutions. I wouldn't suggest insulating one of those types of buildings any other way. And I would NEVER suggest building one without insulation.
I went with 12' walls for a lift, and with the open top construction, that is plenty of height, as it clears 15' at the peak. If you can get the doors big enough, I can't imagine the shop itself not being tall enough for a boat of any normalish size.
I'm not sure I would recommend that construction for anything much bigger than mine (for one thing, when I built mine, the prices got into normal steel construction territory when the depth exceeded 24') I'd be very interested to see how that type of construction holds up to something as large as you are looking to build. My personal opinion is I would probably lean towards more traditional steel building construction for something that size. Most of that trepidation is that I just have never seen a building of that size in that type of construction.
I went with 12' walls for a lift, and with the open top construction, that is plenty of height, as it clears 15' at the peak. If you can get the doors big enough, I can't imagine the shop itself not being tall enough for a boat of any normalish size.
I'm not sure I would recommend that construction for anything much bigger than mine (for one thing, when I built mine, the prices got into normal steel construction territory when the depth exceeded 24') I'd be very interested to see how that type of construction holds up to something as large as you are looking to build. My personal opinion is I would probably lean towards more traditional steel building construction for something that size. Most of that trepidation is that I just have never seen a building of that size in that type of construction.
Not a big fan of traditional shell due to having to frame walls inside to "finish it out. I considered the cc style metal because the "studs" are 4ft oc and I could just finish much like a pole barn. I have a turn key quote on a 40x48x12 traditional stick built completely finished for 87k. I can do a shell for around 70k for a 40x60. These decisions aren't easy because This is a one time deal.
minytrker
Well-known member
I have 24x68x12 that I had spray foamed with closed cell, walls ceiling whole thing. 24x26 is walled off with a second floor and AC. With the spray foam and walls its a very nice building IMO and I get a ton of compliments. Is a red iron building better, absolutely without a doubt but when you compare cost and what your using the building for not everyone needs a red iron building. I know a lot of people who have these "carport" buildings and it seems your installer makes all the difference in the world.
robthebuilderer
New member
We've got one of these on order for a small 2 car garage/shop in Sarasota.
One question...your building looks like it's on a concrete slab...did your installer follow the standard detail showing 2" minimum [concrete coverage] between anchors and edge of slab?
I only ask because I'm trying to figure out base wall exterior flashing, if we follow this detail.
Thanks in advance.
rerod
Well-known member
The slab 4" wider than the building is a big disadvantage, and would allow water to seep under the walls and rust it out. My guess is since the wall plate is narrow, the holes needed to mount it would be to close to the outside edge and crack the concrete. Maybe you could form a 45 degree angle on-top of the last 2" of slab to shed water? I did see a picture of a CC building with a flush concrete pad..
http://www.vikingsteelstructures.com/buy-from-photos/30x70x9-custom-utility-building
This lightweight carport design had me wondering if it could be used for a super insulated building. Meaning you would then build interior 2x4 walls 18" away from the exterior and fill the space with blown in.. Leave the top of the wall open so you can add more as it settles..
Being it a all steel building which will expand and contract equally. Will that prevent the problems of egged out holes, leaky and backing out screws occurring on wooden buildings??
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Toolfool
Well-known member
I have spent the last few months researching , calling and viewing red iron and tubular steel buildings. Unfortunately, none will work on my sloped lot. But if I did have a flat lot I'd be purchasing a tubular steel building from Carport Central. The two buildings I viewed were well built. They use double 2-1/2" x 5" studs, stitch-welded together in their framing. Their slab design incorporates a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" drop along the outer edge to prevent water intrusion. Solid, tight building.