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Which air compressor is best for my garage?

chazzz

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I am trying to decide which air compressors I'll need for my garage.

1) Husky 30 gallon, 155 PSI air compressor
6.2 SCFM @ 40 PSI
5.3 SCFM @ 90 PSI

OR

2) Husky 60 gallon, 155 PSI air compressor
13.4 SCFM @ 40 PSI
11.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI

I understand that high SCFM, the better. Let me tell you which tools I'll be using:

Impact wrench, just to loosen or tighten lug nuts...maybe 3 times a year.

Inflate car & truck tires to bring up to correct PSI...about 3 or 5 times a year.

Inflate bicycle tires...about 10 times a year.

Air Rachet wrench... maybe 5 or 8 times a year

Stapling & brad nails... 4 or 5 times a year

Painting... no, nope. Don't plan to paint anything with the air compressor.

Framing nailing...no.

Finish nailing...maybe but I can do that with my hammer.

Cutting/grinding/sanding...nah, I have electric cutting, grinding and sanding.

Do you think 30 gallon, 155 PSI air compressor is good enough??
 
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James-W

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For your present uses you don't need a really great compressor. What you need a better compressor for are tools like air grinders, air sanders, sand blasting, stuff like that. I would, however, consider what my future needs might be and buy a compressor accordingly.
 

Lelandwelds

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Those are all low cfm tools. I would try to get something with a 1800 rpm motor. Stay with a single stage in cast iron with oil. Will it be stationary? Used OK? You could be happy with a machine most people would never consider. I would consider putting money in better filters. ( Both water/ particulate filter and a coalescing filter would be my choice.)

The usual big air users are painting, needle scalers, air grinders, air files, tire bead setters, and sand blasting. Ninety PSI is the recomended max for most tools. Eighty percent of my own needs could be met with a 3/4 hp single stage with a 10 gallon tank.
 
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Leaflessshadetree

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The 30 gallon should be fine for the wrenches and is overkill (but will work) for the bicycle tires and nailers (including framing).
 

jetnow1

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the 60 gallon Huskey is noisy as hell. Try to hear one run if that is the one you choose.
 

Citation

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What's the price difference? For even money I would say go with the 60 since it never hurts to have more air. But for that list of tools you could get by with one of the 8 gallon oil free, super loud Husky hot dog compressors that have been on sale for under $100. That and portable an be nice. There is a world of difference between heavy but on wheels and bolted to the floor.

For the list only the air ratchet would present an issue. Lowes says their ratchet uses 7cfm. So figure every 10 gal is about 1 1/3 ft^3. Each atm is 14.7 psi drop so a 125 to 95 psi drop is 2 atms at 1 1/3 ft3 each or 2 2/3 cf. 2.66/7=0.38min or 23 seconds of run per 10 gal of tank air. Then you have to wait for the recharge. Your compressors have different cut off /on pressures but 2 atm is probably reasonable. I would take that 23sec/10 gal and scale it for the larger tanks. The 60 gal pump can keep up with the air ratchet but the 30 can not.

Since I'm not a fan of air ratchets I would worry about it.
 
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chazzz

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Those are all low cfm tools. I would try to get something with a 1800 rpm motor. Stay with a single stage in cast iron with oil. Will it be stationary? Used OK? You could be happy with a machine most people would never consider. I would consider putting money in better filters. ( Both water/ particulate filter and a coalescing filter would be my choice.)

The usual big air users are painting, needle scalers, air grinders, air files, tire bead setters, and sand blasting. Ninety PSI is the recomended max for most tools. Eighty percent of my own needs could be met with a 3/4 hp single stage with a 10 gallon tank.

I am going to buy a single stage air compressor, with cast iron (with oil). I used to have a 20 gallon oil-less air compressor which served me for 25 years. I don't like oil-less because it's so loud and it only lasted 25 years.

Stationary vs portable...it's safe for me to go with portable, just in case if I need to move it to a different location for nailing or some other medium-duty work.

After reading several posts in this thread, I am convinced that I should be fine with 30 gallon Husky single stage air compressor (cast iron, oil type machine). It's an ultra-quiet (75 dbl) machine. Home Depot sells it for $399.00. Very good reviews by people who owned them.
 

poriggity

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I'm going through this same dilemma but on a smaller scale as I am weighing options between a 21 and 26 or 30 gallon. Just from reading this thread and knowing my intended usage I think a 21 or 26 would be plenty.

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk
 

LX-Markham

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I am going to buy a single stage air compressor, with cast iron (with oil). I used to have a 20 gallon oil-less air compressor which served me for 25 years. I don't like oil-less because it's so loud and it only lasted 25 years.
It served you well.
 

D45

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Are both 220v?

I have used a Craftsman oil-less 33 gallon vertical compressor for 20 years

No issues, other than loud.......but it does not get used all that much with the recent influx of good cordless tools
 

bannerd

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Should do the job! Sand blasting, tire changers will stretch that cfm. I use to run the shop on a old 30gallon Montgomery Ward. It was finally replaced with a champion, not too loud for the size. Although it made a large dent in the wallet.
 

tthornto

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For the needs you listed I would forget the air impact and ratchet and get a Milwaukee battery powered impact wrench and ratchet instead. plus a small (4-6 gallon) pancake or hotdog style compressor. The impact wrench and ratchet are the only tools you have listed that need a high cfm. Plus I like the convenience of not having to drag air hoses around when using those tools. The smaller compressor is also more convenient because it is portable; just move it to where you are working, no more dragging an air hose through the house to get to where you need your trim nailer.
 

Citation

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For the needs you listed I would forget the air impact and ratchet and get a Milwaukee battery powered impact wrench and ratchet instead. plus a small (4-6 gallon) pancake or hotdog style compressor. The impact wrench and ratchet are the only tools you have listed that need a high cfm. Plus I like the convenience of not having to drag air hoses around when using those tools. The smaller compressor is also more convenient because it is portable; just move it to where you are working, no more dragging an air hose through the house to get to where you need your trim nailer.

For occasional use I would recommend against battery impacts vs air. Once you have the compressor air tools are cheaper and typically last longer because there are no batteries to go bad. I agree that battery tools have good power and great convenience but my impact wrench is 15+ years old. My father's similar impact is at least 30. I don't expect my battery tools to last that long.
 

vavet

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The smaller unit is fine. Here's some other food for thought.

Will you leave it pressurized when you're not using it. Assume that you will.
Now you go out and need to air up a bike/car tire. You have to wait for the pressure to build. It will likely take longer to build up the required pressure for the 60 gallon because you have to bring 60 gallons up to 60 psi to reasonably inflate a tire.

Like others have said, you can probably even get away with a smaller unit than what you've mentioned.
 
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Lelandwelds

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I would much rather move hose than compressor. Well, actually I plan to run a loop and drops out of PEX. Some of the drops will run outside. I might trench to two outbuildings.

I like stationary because it's quieter and easier to use better water traps. Leaks cost a fortune BTW. Life cycle cost for cordless tools are way higher than people realize. Our two stage had a motor replaced in the 80s. Who knows how old it is. I have replaced enough battteries since the 80s to buy a big, new compressor.

Long term, I bet cordless and compressed are pretty close in cost. More accurately, both are equally expensive but damn convenient.

Dont buy too small. Future needs sneak up on you. I dont see how you avoid painting. A HF paint gun squirts shiny stuff on everything I build.

I like the "only lasted 25 years" bit. I see the world like that.
 

Citation

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The smaller unit is fine. Here's some other food for thought.

Will you leave it pressurized when you're not using it. Assume that you will.
Now you go out and need to air up a bike/car tire. You have to wait for the pressure to build. It will likely take longer to build up the required pressure for the 60 gallon because you have to bring 60 gallons up to 60 psi to reasonably inflate a tire.

Like others have said, you can probably even get away with a smaller unit than what you've mentioned.
In this case it will likely be the same. Twice the tank size and about twice the pump flow. This was something I liked about my 4 gal, 4cfm compressor. Just over 1 min from empty.
 

Lelandwelds

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My "dream garage" would have a "dream compressor" with variable rate CFM, variable storage capacity, and ( wait for it) variable pressure.

Specifically, I want SB 703 with a SB 705 or 707 clone. Eighty percent of the time , the little guy runs @ 90/ 125 psi with part of the building and most of the storage sitting idle. When an air hog is needed, the big guy is powered up. It runs @ 140/175 and probably has 250 gallons of storage. The big users are clustered together. I have a half dozen alternate choices for favorite little and big guy.

Best suggestion yet: use Milton V style couplers!
 

fsae0607

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I have that 30 gallon husky, and two motors crapped out on it. I ended up getting a Baldor 2 Hp motor for it and running it off 240V.

If you look at the reviews on the Home Crapo website for that compressor, my review is under the name "Javi". My review was before my second motor crapped out. First one was replaced under warrantee.
 

_Stang_

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We had a recent safety topic on compressed air worth sharing.

DAILY SAFETY TOPIC: COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY
Compressed air is often not recognized as a hazard because people often think
of air as harmless.
A BIT OF CAUTION: SERIOUS INJURY OR WORSE MAY OCCUR!
Did you know…?

Air forced into body tissues or through the skin can cause an air embolism (air bubbles in the blood stream) which can be fatal if it reaches the heart, lungs, or brain.

Air blown into the mouth at only 5 PSI can rupture the esophagus or the
lungs.

Eye and ear injuries can occur from a blast of air or flying particles. These types of eye and ear injuries can cause partial or total loss of sight or
hearing.

The sound from a compressed air hose can reach 130 dB which is well
above OSHA’s permissible exposure limit.

40 PSI can blow out an eardrum from 4 inches away and possibly cause
brain damage.

As little as 12 PSI can blow an eye right out of its socket!

Flying particles can cause cuts and bruises to any part of the body.

REMEMBER –
Hoses and lines should be rated to meet the maximum operating pressure
of the equipment

Always wear proper Personal Protective Equipment:
o Goggles and a face shield-not welding hoods!
o Hearing protection
o Respiratory protection, depending on the material(s) being worked
with

Normal work clothing is not protection against compressed air

If you must clean with compressed air, do not use air that is set above 30
PSI, and you must have the proper type of nozzle. No homemade tools.

NEVER USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN CLOTHING OR HAIR!

AND

NEVER POINT COMPRESSED AIR AT YOURSELF OR ANOTHER PERSON!
 

lakelandcat

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My rule of thumb, better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. you can break it down to size, volume and quality. Normally a 30 gal.+will be a oil compressor, meaning its lubed with compressor oil, normally these are louder but more durable. A compressor from Lowes would be a Kobalt (which is made by Campbell Hauslfield), Huskey which is a Home Depot brand. Oilless compressors are less noisy and less durable. The compressor part does not have pistons. You can throw a oilless in the back of a truck and not worry about oil going all over everything. Sometimes the size of the tank can be offset by the size of the motor, which means the tank will fill faster {or catch up}to the amount of air you are using. Grinders sandblasters paintguns and air saws use a lot of air. Nailers not so much(unless you use them all the time at which time you are fast with the trigger). My shop I use a Kobalt 30gal. It is on wheels so its easy to move, and it will run anything I want as long as I take my time. Hope this helps. Mike
 

Lelandwelds

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I think you typed the noise from oil vs not oil backwards.

Cambpel Hausfeld can build a nice compressor. The big box guys spec a cheap one to try and pump up profits. Buy one somewhere else. Lots of good units are made by mom and pop integraters you never heard of. No one casts their own pumps, winds their own motors, or welds up their own pressure vessels.

They bolt that **** together.

The trick is to find somebody who will specify good parts and be careful with the details. Think 1800 rpm motor, 750 rpm cast iron pump, and belt drive. If you change the oil and filters, drain the water and get rid of some of the heat of compression, you should expect 50 years use from a good one.

And no, I am not exaggerating.
 

lakelandcat

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sorry but I work for Lowes and have to deal with the tool dept comp. every day, been doing it for 9 years I have owned every thing from pancake to 80 gal.all makes and models I also had a Matco franchise and sold a lot of ingresal rand(nice compressors) say what you want, what a way to welcome a new guy. one more trick is to open the petcock/drain on a new unit and run it for 30 min. non stop. Its like breaking in a new motor, change the oil and add synthetic oil. That makes them run a lot smoother in bizarro land!
 
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Lelandwelds

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No offense intended but big box stores sell consumer grade compressors. Ingersoll hasnt made a nice single phase recip compressor for thirty years. Unlike many people here, I believe tool truck products are grossly over hyped and over priced. All reciprocating compressors have pistons.

Running a new or newly rebuilt compresser without a load is an excellent idea. Some mfg require it.

I believe Champion or Castair or Fu Sheng or Cutis for example provide higher quality compressors than any model from any big box store. There arent any compressor secrets.

Lowes has the buying power to spec out an excellent compressor at a lower price point than any place I shop. If they wanted to they could spec a zero gap, a moly, or a fourth piston ring. They could include a 800 rpm pump which puts out 15 cfm at 175 psi and 1800 rpm motors with F class insulation. They could have a condenser before the tank. They make a business decision not to do so.
 

lakelandcat

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none taken, my 30 gal.is a 2cly. and it does all I need it to do the new ones are 1 cly. with a bigger piston but your right their ****. 10 year ago when I had my truck we would get our ingresoll comp. straight from the factory, they did have a industrial which was great for small business, you couldn't kill it, but they were very expensive. One reason tools are so expensive is because we had to fianance so their is a lot of overhead, people rip you off, skip out not paying and that all comes out of your pocket. I hated it. It did have some good perks, my pet project is a 80 gal vert. Curtis, I believe the motor is gone. I got it from a Ford dealer that had just bought a new one, I traded 2 pizzas. Maybe Ill part it out. The prob. I had with the small oilless is that the diaphragms kept wearing out, sometime its cheaper not to keep her.
 

Lelandwelds

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Diaphragms are really small compressors used in fish ponds and the like. Most people mean piston compressor when they say oilless. Their pistons have a teflon or polyethylene ring. Some have a jug made of the same stuff.

They are easy to rebuild but most people agree they are disposable ****.
 
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