Removing An Outside/Exterior Outlet

[D45]

I am resurfacing and doing some deck work.......and I have this dual duplex outlet box

It is falling apart and I really have no use for it, since there are other outlet boxes nearby

I want it gone like the wind

Can I just remove the outlets/wiring/vertical conduit and install a ground level/water tight junction box? Or whats the best way to get ride of it?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Are there two separate circuits or does the second conduit continue the circuit to another box?

Myself I'd repair/replace it. Appears to be in a convenient location, (cords won't cross access to the deck) and I believe that you can never have too many outlets.

 

[D45]

There are two outlets (that you can see) on the outside wall of the deck.......only about 12 feet away. I never used any of these outlets anyways, but they are good to have for sure.

I thought about keeping it, but I am also removing the railing...........would just like to remove it all

 

[zak77]

Cap the wires that feed it in a junction box on the inside of the home and if it feeds another circuit, figure out another way to feed that circuit and once it's all disconnected, rip it out!!!

 

[D45]

Thanks, but I am hoping to just save time and install a ground level junction box, which will be hidden under the deck

 

[Richard Cranium]

Be sure it is water tight

 

[75gmck25]

Install a junction box close to ground level, but face it toward the vertical side of the deck. It should be easier to seal that way, and since the box faceplate ends up on the side of the deck it will still meet requirements for access to the electrical connections.

If it was mine I would use a waterproof receptacle cover instead of a plain faceplate, and include a duplex receptacle in the new box. You never know where you might need power.

Bruce

 

[Stuart in MN]

Does the existing wiring go in and then out of those two conduits, and does it need to remain connected to something downstream? If not you could just pull the wire out, take the conduits down below grade and abandon them. If you need to keep the wiring intact, I would go with a new box down lower, but not right on the ground - in reality, over time most ground level boxes will end up not being watertight. The box will have to remain accessible as well.

 

[PoorOwner]

We had one like for a spot for the spa, the previous owner just cut it flush with the concrete and then patched cement over it, which took a while to find as I only had an idea where the conduit should end up.
I still have the conduit going into the concrete on the panel side, but the wires pulled out. I WISH they haven't done that, it will be very hard to restore the use now having that one end under concrete.. I would vote you just leave some conduit and leave a box there but no wires so it can still be restored later.

 

[D45]

Well upon further inspection, I have one line going from the house, in the plastic conduit, to the outlets.

Then the other vertical plastic conduit is buried and "I believe" going underground and supplying power to the outlets for the pool

So, While I do want the two outlets gone.........I do need to keep some wiring for the underground line to the pool.

 

[Zeke]

Just do the j-box. You can go as low as any flooding would allow. There apparently is no provision in the NEC for minimum box height unless there is a body of water present, meaning a pond or river.

 

[D45]

Here are some better pictures to show what I am dealing with

 

[ard]

Doesnt any junction box require 'access'?

So it cant be 'hidden'....

 

[mm08822]

A jbox can not be concealed where removal of the structure is required to access it.

You could cut the existing 90 off of the horizontal conduit and dig out around the vertical conduit. Cut the vertical conduit so a 90 added onto it will be at the same height as the horizontal conduit. Connect the new 90 to the horizontal conduit. You will need a few couplings, pvc cement, and new wire. You can re-use the straight conduit pieces cut from the recept to piece back the horizontal run.

This assumes that doing this will not put you over 360 degrees between outlets.

 

[yeldogt]

I would keep it -- for $40 get a midwest metal box. Removing a proper exterior outlet is a crime against humanity in my book.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Well upon further inspection, I have one line going from the house, in the plastic conduit, to the outlets.

Then the other vertical plastic conduit is buried and "I believe" going underground and supplying power to the outlets for the pool

So, While I do want the two outlets gone.........I do need to keep some wiring for the underground line to the pool.

Typically pool outlets are fed off of the GFCI in the pool pump panel...

you should definitely trace this circuit before you do anything with it...

 

[MikeF2316]

I'd keep it too. It's in a great spot. Maybe you'll need to reposition it slightly. And since it appears to be "middle of the run" you're going to need some kind of box there that's accessible, so it might as well be functional.

 

[D45]

All the outlets around the pool are GFCI

I have more than enough outside outlets and want this one gone

This is obviously just outside, waterproof plastic conduit.......does it get glued together like PVC or is it just pushed together?

I am going to start taking it apart this coming weekend

 

[CJ7VFR]

All the outlets around the pool are GFCI

I have more than enough outside outlets and want this one gone

This is obviously just outside, waterproof plastic conduit.......does it get glued together like PVC or is it just pushed together?

I am going to start taking it apart this coming weekend

If you are going to use PVC conduit, then you have to glue the pieces together just like you do any other PVC pipe and push on fittings.

If you didn't, it would not be water tight and differences in hot and cold temperatures could make hand fitted pieces come loose and fall apart.

Jim

 

[rlitman]

... in reality, over time most ground level boxes will end up not being watertight...

THIS.

I would suggest that if you go with a ground level box, you use DB rated wire nuts for the splices in it. It will save you from future headaches when the box ends up wet inside.

 

[D45]

I was able to read a few pieces of the plastic:

Centex Rigid PVC Conduit SCH40

NEMATC2 Sunlight Resistant

Looks to have be marked 3/4"

Looks like I can get a wide variety of bends:

http://www.cantexinc.com/Products/Schedule_40/Bends/Special_Radius_Belled_End/index.php

http://www.cantexinc.com/Products/Schedule_40/Bends/Special_Radius_Belled_End/index.php


http://www.cantexinc.com/Products/Schedule_40/Bends/Standard_Radius/index.php

 

[PoorOwner]

They also have a flexible one in 3/4" if you need to shoe horn it in there. But usually if the conduit is long enough there is enough play to do the splice.

 

[D45]

I cant find any Centex dealers local.............so I assume any SCH40 PVC bends and accessories will fit and work

Home Depot and all the big box stores do sell PVC fittings

http://www.homedepot.com/b/PVC/N-5yc1vZbohkZ1z113es

 

[D45]

Going to pick up some Dry-Conn wire nuts:

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Wire-conne...s-Electrical/4294722551?refinement=4294829400

or should I get IDEAL (certified for damp/wet locations or direct burial/below-grade applications):

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-10-Pack-Plastic-Wing-Wire-Connectors/1000138321

 

[PoorOwner]

DryConn is what I usually get but they are same. You don't direct bury line voltage wire nuts so it doesn't matter for that rating.

Make sure you read the package for how many wires you are capping together, the small size is probably useless for this job, they are for sprinkler 18 gauge wires.

 

[yeldogt]

Can you burry a line with them attached ???

I had to fix a feed to a post light one time -- it was an assembly that completely covered the cable and then was injected with sealant ... it had to be 8-10 inches long.

 

[D45]

I will not be burying the line or wiring

My plan is to remove the vertical lines and the outlets

I will get a waterproof box, that will not be buried either

The wiring will be spliced/connected together, inside the waterproof box, using the outside rated wire nuts

I will reinforce all connections and seals with silicon

 

[Wirepuller]

Use a PVC bender or heat dun and shape the conduit to secure under the deck somehow. Or cut the PVC change to a female adapter and use seal tite to do the same. I'm not a huge fan of boxes that close to the ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[D45]

I was able to get the two outlets disconnected, the box removed and the two vertical pieces removed

There were a lot more wires inside than I though there would have been

Tomorrow I will shop around and see what I can find, regarding an outside waterproof j-box

I also need to find some 3/4" PVC bends and figure out an orientation on what will work

 

[D45]

Is flexible 3/4" non metallic able to be used with the SCH40 PVC?

https://www.menards.com/main/electr...9-c-6423.htm?tid=-3396193531432252829&ipos=22

 

[D45]

I cut the one vertical pvc section close to the ground and used a balled 90 degree bend piece, and installed a liquid tite fitting on the end of the bend.........and glued the bend to the cut off stub

I then cut the long pvc run and installed another liquid tite fitting on the end

I mounted a small pvc box and connected both

I used some DryConn wire nuts on all the connections

The pvc box had a good rubber gasket, but I used some silicon on the lid and also around the fittings on each side of the box

Pleased how it looks and how it turned out, maybe $35 into this small project

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Liquid tight fittings are meant for liquid tight NOT PVC.

Shouldve used a male terminal adapter.

Also, will that j box be accessible with the deck in place?

 

[D45]

I use the words "liquid tite" loosely, I am not sure what they are specifically called

I told the parts guy at the electrical supply house what I was doing and he sold me the fittings with the 90 degree bend

Yes, of course it will be acceissible

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I use the words "liquid tite" loosely, I am not sure what they are specifically called

I told the parts guy at the electrical supply house what I was doing and he sold me the fittings with the 90 degree bend

Yes, of course it will be acceissible

Do they look like either of these?

Shouldve used this:

 

[D45]

Definately not the top two fittings

Looks "close" to the bottom one, but mine has a rubber oring (for up against the j box) and a 'nut washer' for inside the box.....

Also, mine has threads like a screw, and the entire fittings is 'self tapping' and is screwed inside the conduit, with another rubber washer that seals up against the end of the conduit

I used silicon everywhere and have no doubts it is all water tight