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'78 F350 Dually Project

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RivennHewn

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Riv, truck is cool and looking great. Glad to see you have surpassed 68 pages of making a table! All on the truck!!! LoL


Sent from my bag phone

Thanks dwysywd,

I've let myself get sidetracked with work, misc. projects and sunday afternoon football.

I need to kick my self in the backside and get this thing going again.
 
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RivennHewn

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Well, what do we have here.....

Seems the roll pin in the distributor gear failed.

Coming out
0ba0


Gett'n bent
MPoi


Well that don't look right - spun
pVE8


Yay, cheap offshore parts!
Tc3Q


So my question is, is this the problem, or a symptom of something else?

I'm thinking a spun gear is kinda a big problem.
 
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dwysywd

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You could be over thinking it. Not an expensive part, if you spin a second one then You've got a problem. But as you know, a part is only as good as its weakest piece. Chinese steel is junk and if that pin sheared it could just be that its a junk pin and it finally failed


Sent from my bag phone
 

C_F

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So my question is, is this the problem, or a symptom of something else?

I'm thinking a spun gear is kinda a big problem.

Assuming your distributor shaft spins freely, I would bet your oil pump is seized. If so, the rod between the distributor & oil pump is likely twisted too. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.:eek:

You could slide the gear off the distributor shaft, reinsert it in the engine, to engage the oil pump drive rod & try to slowly spin the rotor. If it won't spin, the pump is not turning.
 
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RivennHewn

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Good call C F,

Here is a shot straight down the distributor hole. With my cheap borescope.
sNwx


Can't get a pic of it, but there is a hex shaft rattling around loose in my engine.
 
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RivennHewn

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It's been an up and down kinda afternoon:eyecrazy:

1st, finding the loose rod in my block was a devastating feeling:( Figuring out how to retrieve it, and then how to get it re-installed had me feeling:rocker:

O'reilly's warranty got me a new distributor:beer: But the wire size, color and location were all different that the previous unit:headscrat

Sorting out the wires had me all:D Getting it timed and running smoothly :thumbup:

Then We took it out on the street and let it rip:3gears:

clearing out the pipes around the neighborhood:evil:
 

C_F

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Good call C F,


Can't get a pic of it, but there is a hex shaft rattling around loose in my engine.
Yeah, that hex shaft is the oil pump drive rod I was talking about, I guess shaft is a better word though. :D It looks like this...

001.jpg


Mounted on an oil pump. The shaft pictured here is a heavy duty version, that's the only difference. The washer looking thing is there so you can't accidentally pull out the shaft when removing the distributor...because if you could, then shaft will immediately fall into the oil pan. Been there done that (in my teens).

003-ford-z460-oil-pump.jpg
 
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RivennHewn

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C F,
Thanks again for bring up the whole oil pump shaft/rod. I wasn't even aware that they came apart from the pump.
You pretty much saved my **** on this one:beer:


I've been thinking this whole episode through, and I have a theory. Unfortunately, it involves user error.

There is a slim chance:willy_nilthat I may have not completely tightened down the distributor lock down nut. At speed, it may have vibrated enough to move enough to screw up the timing enough to cause a high RPM backfire that could have possibly sheared the cam gear???????

Is that a stretch?
 

C_F

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There is a slim chance:willy_nilthat I may have not completely tightened down the distributor lock down nut. At speed, it may have vibrated enough to move enough to screw up the timing enough to cause a high RPM backfire that could have possibly sheared the cam gear???????

Is that a stretch?

Meh, I wouldn't say it's impossible, it could happen. Did you tighten it down good this time? :D

I'm glad they were able to warranty that for you.
 
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RivennHewn

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Convinced it was time to pull the engine, I had taken the hood off.

Now it's time to put it back on, but not before some detailing of the engine bay.
Notice the top of the firewall?

R9PH

vsEB


Still not running perfect, but getting closer........

 

zkdiesel

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Please tie up your wires nicer and make sure they stay seperated. 5 zip ties can be used to fashion a nice holder for 4 wires
If you don't it will cause you grief down the line
 
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RivennHewn

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Please tie up your wires nicer and make sure they stay seperated. 5 zip ties can be used to fashion a nice holder for 4 wires
If you don't it will cause you grief down the line

Definitely on the to do list!
Thanks for the reminder
 

drivesitfar

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Riv: you keep taking a couple steps forwards and a step backwards with this truck, but look where you were when you started and you'll realize you are gaining on having a nice old vintage truck to drive to work and use for those projects that seem to find you.

cheers
 
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RivennHewn

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nonhog, drives,

Thanks,

I drove the flatbed up to Dunn lumber today to pick up some material for work.

Felt good, and put a smile on my face.
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks Matt and Fergus.

There is one old issue that has been bothering me since I bought the truck, and came up again today while driving our bumpy Seattle roads.

The bed jumps and bounces a bit when I hit a bump in the road. It's quite loud, and jarring.

I'm thinking about some sort of hold-down, to secure the bed when I'm not needing the dump function. Maybe this already exist, I don't know.

Could be something as simple as a latch, or fabricate something more complex.

Any thoughts?

I don't think it really has to be all that heavy duty, but could use some input.
 

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zmotorsports

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Thanks Matt and Fergus.

There is one old issue that has been bothering me since I bought the truck, and came up again today while driving our bumpy Seattle roads.

The bed jumps and bounces a bit when I hit a bump in the road. It's quite loud, and jarring.

I'm thinking about some sort of hold-down, to secure the bed when I'm not needing the dump function. Maybe this already exist, I don't know.

Could be something as simple as a latch, or fabricate something more complex.

Any thoughts?

I don't think it really has to be all that heavy duty, but could use some input.

I have used toggle style clamps made by DeStaco before on snowmobile trailers to do the same thing you are looking to do, just keep the rattles and noises at bay. Similar to your first picture there. I like them better than a pin merely because they allow you to apply some preload as the pin style can and will eventually rattle as well.
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks Zmotor,

A Destatco type latch/clamp is how I'm leaning, if I can find some that have enough reach.

One pisser, If I had mounted the tool boxes further back about 2-3", I would have a more convenient location in front of the boxes. As it is, there will be limited access to the latches.

I could go behind the boxes, but I don't think they'll be as affective in the middle of the bed.
 

txvwnut

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Dude you bought a dump truck they’re noisy just get used to it. :lol_hitti

Does your bed have headache rack on it? A little weight on the front might help to ease some of the vibration bounce. The only thing with a latch is remembering to get out and release it before raising the bed.
 

Strouty

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Does your bed have headache rack on it? A little weight on the front might help to ease some of the vibration bounce. The only thing with a latch is remembering to get out and release it before raising the bed.

My dad has a ramp truck, it has these sockets that keep it from coming up while in the stowed position, he forgets and the hydraulics grunt, then ting! and the tabs break off. We have welded them up several times, but he keeps forgetting.
 

zkdiesel

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Thanks Matt and Fergus.

There is one old issue that has been bothering me since I bought the truck, and came up again today while driving our bumpy Seattle roads.

The bed jumps and bounces a bit when I hit a bump in the road. It's quite loud, and jarring.

I'm thinking about some sort of hold-down, to secure the bed when I'm not needing the dump function. Maybe this already exist, I don't know.

Could be something as simple as a latch, or fabricate something more complex.

Any thoughts?

I don't think it really has to be all that heavy duty, but could use some input.
This cracks me up. It's a 40 year old dump truck, it's gonna have bed noise. Are all your pins tight? If they sloppy that's what's allowing the noise to be much worse than a tight greased bed... odds are it's banging in the front and back...
I'd fix your pins before welding on latches you'll blow off by accident
 
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RivennHewn

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View attachment 687261
This cracks me up. It's a 40 year old dump truck, it's gonna have bed noise. Are all your pins tight? If they sloppy that's what's allowing the noise to be much worse than a tight greased bed... odds are it's banging in the front and back...
I'd fix your pins before welding on latches you'll blow off by accident

ZK, I'm not quite ready to give up on quieting down the banging noises.

My boat only took a little nylon hold down strap, and it weighed more than the truck bed.

I've ordered some DeStatCo latches. Should have them by mid next week.
 
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RivennHewn

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Back in the day......

Back in the mid to late 70's, seems every commercial/ work truck had a couple required stickers on them.

Anybody else remember seeing these?

Not For Hire

8,000 Gross


Why were they required, and then why did they go away?
 

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txvwnut

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Some states consider any truck over a certain GVW a commercial truck whether it is used by a business or private citizen. Some required the GVW rating to be displayed on the vehicle.
 

Strouty

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It may be a DOT rule, I think if you don't have a DOT number for a truck with over 10k GVWR then you technically would need to post "not for hire" This is a guess, as I have never researched it. All my trucks are commercially used, so I just break all the rules anyways.
 
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