Factory butcher flooring

[Lelandwelds]

Once I was in a production butcher shop that was having a new floor put down. This stuff was being put down with long handled steel squeegees. It was thick red rubbery goo. They troweled the stuff and made beveled corners with a jig. (Ever watch concrete curbing being poured?) When it was cured it was soft and easier on the feet than plain concrete.

Any idea what product this was?

 

[Lelandwelds]

Probably too expensive but I am curious. This stuff was seamless when installed and thick. It bridged expansion joints and chipped concrete like nothing I've ever seen. Washdowns at every shift change didnt affect it.

When applied you could see tiny rubber or vinyl pieces stuck together. It had different colored streaks in it too.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Floors for areas you are describing are typically urethane mortar or slurry. It's a special product that holds up well against thermal shock (cold floor, hot water).

 

[Lelandwelds]

You got the hot water part right. They had a guy who would go around and make certain it was above 190°F. They had a caustic HD cleaner, too.

The stuff was cool. They put it over brick floor, bad concrete, and partway up cinder block. All the corners and crevices went bye bye.

Google found a case study. $12/ foot. Yikes!

I have been in four clean rooms. I didnt see it applied but each looked a LOT like epoxy. Probable?

Thanks for the reply. That Nohr-S looks like a winner. I think I will topcoat with it over epoxy. I have seen epoxy floors wearing through from concentrated forklift traffic. Would the simplest proactive fix be to just put down an extra layer? What about an extra layer only on anticipated wear spots?

 

[katilicous]

Extra layer in anticipated wear spots will look like you did an extra layer in some spots. Epoxy doesn't blend super well but maybe someone knows a product for that.

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[Lelandwelds]

Extra layer in anticipated wear spots will look like you did an extra layer in some spots. Epoxy doesn't blend super well

Would two coats cover the wear spots or is it visible because of the .010 film thickness?
You mean in the bucket? I've got a 500 rpm variable speed drill I mix with.

 

[katilicous]

I meant on top of what you have you will see a puddle mark at the edges of where you patch new on top even if you gouge your epoxy and have a nice chip you try to fill, you can see the fill. I had a few fisheyes and tried just filling them in but epoxy is so thick it has a mind of its own. The thicker the topcoat you apply the more obvious the coat will be but since forklifts drive over the area the edges will maybe feather out on their own. Make sure you scuff up your floor so it has a surface profile for the new material to bind with in the areas you will be laying on a new coat.
How are you planning to contain the perimeter if you are only patching some spots?

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[katilicous]

I'm sorry I think I misunderstood your post. If you haven't done the floor at all yet why not use an industrial coating. I know Legacy and Armor both carry beefed up versions that have thicker mils. Most polymer manufacturers carry an industrial coating. Armor has some seriously sturdy pvc interlocking tiles that are manufactured with forklift rolling capacity. Won't be cheap but not 12 a foot either. Tiles are so easy and look so nice.

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[Lelandwelds]

Sorry, I guess I wasnt clear. I havent broken ground on garage yet. House is almost finished but thats it.

My only experience with coated floors is in industrial and warehouse settings. ( well, I was in AJ Foyts garage in 1979) The heaviest wear is where forklifts grind the dirt into the floor turning to enter trailers or aisles.

I dont own a forklift but might roll a floor jack back and forth for years in the same 2 x 3 ft area. Or all foot traffic moves through a single mandoor and the gravel stuck it boots causes where.

I want to "what if" this from every possible angle so I hit a home run the first time. I want to anticipate problems but not do something dumb which has unintended consequences.

 

[Shea]

For the way you describe how you will use your garage, you would get great service from a high solids epoxy system that consists of a primer, high solids color coat, and one or two coats of a high performance polyurethane or polyurea clear coat. Most of the vendors on this forum sell such systems.

The type of coating that you witnessed is expensive and requires a minimum of two very experienced applicators to apply. Unless you are a professional mechanic with an extremely busy garage, it would be overkill for a residential garage floor.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, the coating you are referring to most likely is a hybrid polymer that we have installed but the company that made it no longer supplies it due to environmental issues. It was SUPER expensive as we recall, over $20 per sq foot just material, cost and required certification to install, so could not resell it. Go with a 100% solids epoxy like our www.armorcladepoxy.com.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Leave it to me to admire the least available and most expensive flooring. I will never think about it ever again.

Lots of success stories all over the place with exactly what you are recommending. I feel a decision coming on.