VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[gman007]

All:

Working on an old Reed 204 vise. The center bolt and bushing is missing. Pictures and story of making a new bolt/bushing to be posted in the near future.

The threads in the body needed to be cleaned up. I didn't want to invest in an expensive tap to use only once. So using a cut off wheel, I cut some slots in the end of a 7/8-20, G-8 bolt, and used it as my tap. Pictured below.

After cleaning out the threads, I was able to cut down the bolt to the length I needed for this vise repair.

Mark
It must be national Reed 204 (204 1/2) center bolt week! Three of us (you, 2oolhound and I) all had issues with the center bolts for reed 204.

We will be eagerly waiting for rest of your center bolt story.
007

 

[Shiftless]

I've been following all of you guys with the missing center swivel bolt problems and thinking how the
H€LL does a previous user just lose that part from a vise? They don't just fall off on their own and crawl into the dark recesses of somebody's workshop never to be found again!

edit: It just occurred to me that of course they are all hiding out with the lost pipe jaws.

 

[gman007]

I've been following all of you guys with the missing center swivel bolt problems and thinking how the
H€LL does a previous user just lose that part from a vise? They don't just fall off on their own and crawl into the dark recesses of somebody's workshop never to be found again!

edit: It just occurred to me that of course they are all hiding out with the lost pipe jaws.

shift
I guess bolts and pipe jaws in this respect are like socks! One sock always tries to escape from the washer or dryer and "bolt" for freedom (whatever freedom means to a sock). I am sure there is somewhere where all the escaped socks hide together too .
007

 

[va.grouseman]

Gman is clearly a Seinfeld man.---Gota love the Sein.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Mark
It must be national Reed 204 (204 1/2) center bolt week! Three of us (you, 2oolhound and I) all had issues with the center bolts for reed 204.

We will be eagerly waiting for rest of your center bolt story.
007

Seeing 2 missing Reed center bolt stories, I couldn't keep from jumping in. I'll admit that I probably overpaid for mine, but the challenge attracted me. Very eclectic solutions to this problem from members here.

 

[drivesitfar]

CRS: thanks for the catalog pictures and i'll have to get better readers to see those, but it sure helps. maybe the guys from across the pond will post how easy it is to take apart these Record vises cause they sure weren't made to do it easily.

007: thanks and except for a few shavings and dust i bet it sat on the previous owner's bench for close to 30 years. I should have taken a picture of the view he had from his shop's window cause it was amazing. imagine standing on a bluff just above the shipping lane and you would be close and i'm amazed he didn't make his garage a family room.

Shift: yep when they sell off the stuff at AREA 51 i want to be there for all the pipe jaws that went MIA.

since these old vises were made prior to WWII would it even be possible to think owners would donate pipe jaws and screws and vise parts to scrap and make tanks and bullets?

 

[gman007]

CRS: thanks for the catalog pictures and i'll have to get better readers to see those, but it sure helps. maybe the guys from across the pond will post how easy it is to take apart these Record vises cause they sure weren't made to do it easily.

007: thanks and except for a few shavings and dust i bet it sat on the previous owner's bench for close to 30 years. I should have taken a picture of the view he had from his shop's window cause it was amazing. imagine standing on a bluff just above the shipping lane and you would be close and i'm amazed he didn't make his garage a family room.

Shift: yep when they sell off the stuff at AREA 51 i want to be there for all the pipe jaws that went MIA.

since these old vises were made prior to WWII would it even be possible to think owners would donate pipe jaws and screws and vise parts to scrap and make tanks and bullets?

drives
I can imaging the view. Northwest is amazingly beautiful. My sister lives in Anmore BC (outside Vancouver) and every time I visit her, the view never seizes to amaze me.

The down side it is that you share your home with other God's creatures !

Like the time she was upstairs in the master bedroom when she heard some noise and thought it must be her husband. So she was yelling Andrew (her husband) is that you and then when there was no answer, she came to top of stairs and saw a nice cuddly and BIG black bear wondering downstairs (foolishly she had left the back porch door open)! Which scared the day light out of her, she ran to the bedroom and barricaded herself there and called 911. By the time cops arrived the bear had tore up the kitchen and gotten some food and left .
007

 

[Carla]

Thanks for the pointers on the 4140 steel Carla. My atlas lathe struggled to hog out the end of that shaft to create a spacer. I didn't have a suitable piece of steel to make the one piece bolt on the lathe but discovered a few lengths of all thread with 7/8 unf threads under my bolt bin so I took the easy route. Thanks Gman for the details of the bolt and everyone else for the advice offered. I figured the height of the spacer section is the most important so the swivel doesn't bind to the bottom of the vise when you tighten the bolt.

Here's what I went with:

This shot shows the all thread and spacer in place before I welded the nut on the all thread to create the bolt in the 1st pic. The centring spacer sits just above the boss so it doesn't lock up when you tighten the bolt.

It all works nicely so I just need to find a second lock tooth and nut assembly (I only have one on the one side) and eventually I want to get steel jaw faces. I may wait till I get a small mill for the jaw faces but I'd like to find the 2nd lock down assembly for the other side asap.

2ool,

Well done.....that repair may look a bit 'Heath Robinson', to be sure, but its a nice example of practical improvisation to 'get 'er done', with the materials and tooling available to hand.

cheers

Carla

 

[Tomthumb717]

I am restoring a Parker 976 and the two screws that hold the spindle collar on have gone missing. Does anyone know what size/thread these may be?

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Tomthumb:

Off the top of my head, I'd say 5/16"-18. Maybe a 1/4"-20. I have a large Parker with 2 screws on the collar. I'll post the measurements tomorrow.

 

[Tomthumb717]

Thank you very much

 

[McBrownie]

I am restoring a Parker 976 and the two screws that hold the spindle collar on have gone missing. Does anyone know what size/thread these may be?

Tom,

My older Parker203 has a non-standard 5/16-20. I'm not sure about the 97x series.

View media item 49830

 

[Shiftless]

I am restoring a Parker 976 and the two screws that hold the spindle collar on have gone missing. Does anyone know what size/thread these may be?

If you are careful, you can try to run a well oiled tap into the holes with your fingers only, no handle. One of yours will probably match. That's what I do.
Obviously if the tap meets resistance don't force it. The benefit of doing this is that you'll end up with nice clean threads for your replacement machine screw.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Mark has it right 5/16 - 18 x 3/4" long 1/2" head
My illustration is not as nice as McBrownie

 

[Tomthumb717]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Tomthumb:
Sorry I'm a little late.
My Parker vise has no model number cast in the side, that I've seen. All I know is that it has 6-1/4" jaws. The collar screw size is 3/8-16.

 

[Shiftless]

What is the collective wisdom on freeing up the rusted slide on yesterday's dumpster find Reed Model 31?
The only other rust frozen vise slide I have ever worked on was a Wilton bullet where I could remove the main screw from the front. On this Reed, I can't access the set screw for the collar in order to withdraw the screw prior to applying force to the slide.
I don't have a press.
First soak with penetrating oil for a few days and then what?

Any suggestions?


.

 

[drivesitfar]

Shift: i've dropped a rusty old Prentiss in a bucket with 2 or 3 gallons of vinegar in it for a week and it freed it up and i bet it had sat outside in the PNW rain for 70 years. I think i posted the pictures on this thread a few years ago if you have a good search knowledge cause the pictures are in a half dead computer.

I've heard a bucket of diesel works about the same and if you have an E tank set up that might work too.

good luck

 

[Shiftless]

Drives:
Yeah, I have been negligent in assembling my e-tank. I have a big plastic tub, some scrap steel straps for electrodes, an old style battery charger, plenty of scrap wire... I just need to get some sodium carbonate and get cookin'

 

[Jp267]

I posted in the inherited Reed thread but this is probably a better place. A month ago I bought a Reed 205 1/2 with a replacement handle. Should I leave it or do original handles ever show up on eBay etc. Still a little new to this so my apologies if it's a dumb question.

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[Outlawmws]

I believe Dr Scott makes replacement handles. He's mostly in the Vises thread, but also in here as well.

Can't say I've ever seen NOS handles anywhere for any vise...

 

[Jp267]

I believe Dr Scott makes replacement handles. He's mostly in the Vises thread, but also in here as well.

Can't say I've ever seen NOS handles anywhere for any vise...

Yeah NOS is probably a no go. Haven't seen any either. I'll check out Dr. Scott. Thanks!

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[Provincial]

I don't believe that vise manufacturers would sell replacement handles because at least one end would have to be formed in the field, a process that is beyond the capabilities of most mechanics. They could have made a replacement handle with a screw-on end, but probably did not feel it was necessary.

Damaging a main screw handle is proof of major abuse of the vise, so the manufacturer would have little incentive to assist in replacing one, since that would hide evidence of abuse when it came to a warranty claim.

 

[Jp267]

I don't believe that vise manufacturers would sell replacement handles because at least one end would have to be formed in the field, a process that is beyond the capabilities of most mechanics. They could have made a replacement handle with a screw-on end, but probably did not feel it was necessary.

Damaging a main screw handle is proof of major abuse of the vise, so the manufacturer would have little incentive to assist in replacing one, since that would hide evidence of abuse when it came to a warranty claim.

Good points. The rest of the vise looks like it was babied. The handle is the only thing not sure what happened.

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[gman007]

Drives:
Yeah, I have been negligent in assembling my e-tank. I have a big plastic tub, some scrap steel straps for electrodes, an old style battery charger, plenty of scrap wire... I just need to get some sodium carbonate and get cookin'

Shift (and whoever else that wants to help)
I have in the past used other methods of de-rusting but now for the first time I am trying electrolysis. I am using the standard rebar and Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda, 12V 2 Amp etc. All is going well but I am not sure how long each piece needs to be processed.

I guess this is a loaded question as it obviously the length of time depends on how bad the corrosion is. In my case it appeared to be just surface rust (see photo). I first processed the static jaw housing for like 6 hours last night and when I pulled it out of solution and rinsed it looked reasonably clean and free of rust. I then dried and left it over night. This morning in day light I noticed there were few spots that could do with some more processing. So I started with a new solution and to my amazement after 7 hours now, still rusty crud/scum seems to be bubbling to the top.

I really want to get going and I have not even gotten to the dynamic jaw/bar and swivel base and screw etc. At this rate it will take 3-4 days or may be even longer.

Is there any good indicator (eg no more bubbles) when a piece is done? Am I over doing it?

Thx much in advance for any advice
007

 

[drivesitfar]

007: i should have set up an E tank years ago and i will some day soon, but my big question is do i want an indoor or outdoor tank. i guess i could have one of each.

in any case until the experts start answering your questions most of the questions might have already been asked or answered on this thread so have a good read and get back to us if you have some free time. here's the link to save you a few minutes searching.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237752&highlight=homemade+electrolysis

most of the guys i know love doing this and say it's pretty easy.

good luck

 

[Jp267]

Shift (and whoever else that wants to help)
I have in the past used other methods of de-rusting but now for the first time I am trying electrolysis. I am using the standard rebar and Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda, 12V 2 Amp etc. All is going well but I am not sure how long each piece needs to be processed.

I guess this is a loaded question as it obviously the length of time depends on how bad the corrosion is. In my case it appeared to be just surface rust (see photo). I first processed the static jaw housing for like 6 hours last night and when I pulled it out of solution and rinsed it looked reasonably clean and free of rust. I then dried and left it over night. This morning in day light I noticed there were few spots that could do with some more processing. So I started with a new solution and to my amazement after 7 hours now, still rusty crud/scum seems to be bubbling to the top.

I really want to get going and I have not even gotten to the dynamic jaw/bar and swivel base and screw etc. At this rate it will take 3-4 days or may be even longer.

Is there any good indicator (eg no more bubbles) when a piece is done? Am I over doing it?

Thx much in advance for any advice
007

Good question I was wondering the same.

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[gman007]

007: i should have set up an E tank years ago and i will some day soon, but my big question is do i want an indoor or outdoor tank. i guess i could have one of each.

in any case until the experts start answering your questions most of the questions might have already been asked or answered on this thread so have a good read and get back to us if you have some free time. here's the link to save you a few minutes searching.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237752&highlight=homemade+electrolysis

most of the guys i know love doing this and say it's pretty easy.

good luck

drives
First and foremost thank you for being helpful (as always) and for the link.

Again I am the novice here but I would be concerned about using an indoor tank unless there is a very safe method of venting it as Hydrogen and Oxygen being released (depending on the size of tank and piece etc) can pose a danger.

As for the electrolysis in fact last night I reviewed the entire thread as well as watched some youtube videos (the most useful one was from Wood Magazine

but no one seems to address the length of time or more appropriately indication that the processes is done. In one the videos (may be the Wood magazine) the guys says there is no harm leaving it too long as the process will eventually stop but again no mention of how does one know.

So any advice will still be appreciated.
007

 

[drivesitfar]

007: i've heard some guys say that they've lit matches in where there E tank was working inside with the doors and windows closed (not advisable BTW) and not getting any explosion or any problems.

the only issue i've heard about at all with the HYDROGEN was when a member had his charger on a live copper wire with his rusty tool on the end and when it hit the already running E tank he ended up spattering his shirt with the rusty goo.

so some of the guys that post on here have their E tanks running 24/7 and from what i've heard at low amps you can leave items in the tank for days and longer. take it out and if you don't like the results, clean the project off and maybe the take the anodes (rebar or steel) out of the tank and clean them off for better results.

i'm far from the expert on this, but i've read more than most and heard the guys talk about it for years while i'm hoping to set up my own some day.

good luck and you're welcome

 

[Jp267]

007: i've heard some guys say that they've lit matches in where there E tank was working inside with the doors and windows closed (not advisable BTW) and not getting any explosion or any problems.

the only issue i've heard about at all with the HYDROGEN was when a member had his charger on a live copper wire with his rusty tool on the end and when it hit the already running E tank he ended up spattering his shirt with the rusty goo.

so some of the guys that post on here have their E tanks running 24/7 and from what i've heard at low amps you can leave items in the tank for days and longer. take it out and if you don't like the results, clean the project off and maybe the take the anodes (rebar or steel) out of the tank and clean them off for better results.

i'm far from the expert on this, but i've read more than most and heard the guys talk about it for years while i'm hoping to set up my own some day.

good luck and you're welcome

Thanks! Good thing I didn't put it in a bucket of WD40 rust removal.

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[SweetD]

All is going well but I am not sure how long each piece needs to be processed. Am I over doing it?

In my experience with electrolysis de-gunking, your best bet is "low and slow"...it's not possible to overdo it...

Patience is good. I also think there is a point where you reach diminishing returns. Experimenting will be your best bet. Just don't rush it. I've had vise parts go for a week at 12V, 2amp setting, and it was worth it.

Good job so far!



Dave

 

[Mark in Indiana]

All:

In the recent past, there were 2 other Reed machinist's vises with missing swivel base center bolt assemblies missing. What are the chances?


My method was likely the cheapest. Using materials from my misc. hardware supply, here's what I did to fix my problem:

1st picture; Measuring the hole and determining the thread pitch, I found a 7/8"-14 x 2" G-8 bolt. I also determined that a 1"NPT close ****** had an inner diameter a little smaller than 7/8" and a 1"NPT coupling had an outer diameter a little larger than the center hole of the swivel base, I could make my bushing from the pipe fittings.

2nd picture; I cut some slots in the end to clean out the threads in the bottom of the vise body (I didn't want to buy a tap for this one job). After that, I cut off the end of the bolt to be the proper length.

3rd picture; After assembling the pipe fittings, I silver soldered them so they would never come apart. Then I cut the pipe fitting assembly down to ~1/16" longer than the depth of the swivel base center hole. A little time with the drill press and the big disk sander took care of my ID & OD. I added the washer as a retainer.

4th picture; The base center bolt assembly is all together.

5th picture; The base is mounted to the static jaw body and turns flawlessly. I will have to shave 1/8" off the top of the bolt head with the disk sander, so it won't be higher than the bottom of the base.


On a final note: I wish I knew how the original center bolt got lost.

 

[gman007]

In my experience with electrolysis de-gunking, your best bet is "low and slow"...it's not possible to overdo it...

Patience is good. I also think there is a point where you reach diminishing returns. Experimenting will be your best bet. Just don't rush it. I've had vise parts go for a week at 12V, 2amp setting, and it was worth it.

Good job so far!



Dave

Dave

Thx much for the advice and compliment.

I guess operating word here is indeed patience (which yours truly has unfortunately very little of) !
007

 

[gman007]

All:

In the recent past, there were 2 other Reed machinist's vises with missing swivel base center bolt assemblies missing. What are the chances?


My method was likely the cheapest. Using materials from my misc. hardware supply, here's what I did to fix my problem:

1st picture; Measuring the hole and determining the thread pitch, I found a 7/8"-14 x 2" G-8 bolt. I also determined that a 1"NPT close ****** had an inner diameter a little smaller than 7/8" and a 1"NPT coupling had an outer diameter a little larger than the center hole of the swivel base, I could make my bushing from the pipe fittings.

2nd picture; I cut some slots in the end to clean out the threads in the bottom of the vise body (I didn't want to buy a tap for this one job). After that, I cut off the end of the bolt to be the proper length.

3rd picture; After assembling the pipe fittings, I silver soldered them so they would never come apart. Then I cut the pipe fitting assembly down to ~1/16" longer than the depth of the swivel base center hole. A little time with the drill press and the big disk sander took care of my ID & OD. I added the washer as a retainer.

4th picture; The base center bolt assembly is all together.

5th picture; The base is mounted to the static jaw body and turns flawlessly. I will have to shave 1/8" off the top of the bolt head with the disk sander, so it won't be higher than the bottom of the base.


On a final note: I wish I knew how the original center bolt got lost.

Mark

Great job, looks really good.

As for the missing center bolt (and jokes aside about bolts escaping to the bolt haven and runaway socks etc) may be some one wanted to use the vise as a fixed base and took off the swivel base and set it aside and in processes over time miss placed the bolt
007

 

[Jp267]

All:

In the recent past, there were 2 other Reed machinist's vises with missing swivel base center bolt assemblies missing. What are the chances?


My method was likely the cheapest. Using materials from my misc. hardware supply, here's what I did to fix my problem:

1st picture; Measuring the hole and determining the thread pitch, I found a 7/8"-14 x 2" G-8 bolt. I also determined that a 1"NPT close ****** had an inner diameter a little smaller than 7/8" and a 1"NPT coupling had an outer diameter a little larger than the center hole of the swivel base, I could make my bushing from the pipe fittings.

2nd picture; I cut some slots in the end to clean out the threads in the bottom of the vise body (I didn't want to buy a tap for this one job). After that, I cut off the end of the bolt to be the proper length.

3rd picture; After assembling the pipe fittings, I silver soldered them so they would never come apart. Then I cut the pipe fitting assembly down to ~1/16" longer than the depth of the swivel base center hole. A little time with the drill press and the big disk sander took care of my ID & OD. I added the washer as a retainer.

4th picture; The base center bolt assembly is all together.

5th picture; The base is mounted to the static jaw body and turns flawlessly. I will have to shave 1/8" off the top of the bolt head with the disk sander, so it won't be higher than the bottom of the base.


On a final note: I wish I knew how the original center bolt got lost.

Looking good! Thanks for sharing!

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[Jp267]

In my experience with electrolysis de-gunking, your best bet is "low and slow"...it's not possible to overdo it...

Patience is good. I also think there is a point where you reach diminishing returns. Experimenting will be your best bet. Just don't rush it. I've had vise parts go for a week at 12V, 2amp setting, and it was worth it.

Good job so far!

[emoji481]

Dave

Yes thank you. So much reading to do!

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[SweetD]

Yes thank you. So much reading to do!

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One man gathers what another man spills...

 

[Jp267]

One man gathers what another man spills...

Love it! No homo though. Sorry tasteless joke sorry to all who poisoned their mind by reading it.

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[SweetD]

Love it! No homo though. Sorry tasteless joke sorry to all who poisoned their mind by reading it.

Gotta know the Stealie to know the story...I tend to think of it as one man's trash is another man's treasure...that's how we all get all of this stuff...!

 

[Jp267]

Gotta know the Stealie to know the story...I tend to think of it as one man's trash is another man's treasure...that's how we all get all of this stuff...!

No I got you man! Teach a man to fish etc.

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At least I hear that may have been how St. Stephen did things. Sorry forgot my lyrics... [emoji33]
I'll have to change my Stealie to a Wild Cherry logo I don't deserve it. [emoji53]