VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[Outlawmws]

Dave

Thx much for the advice and compliment.

I guess operating word here is indeed patience (which yours truly has unfortunately very little of) !
007

007, the answer is unfortunately, "It depends"

Clean anodes and its faster.

Larger anode surface and its faster and they gunk up slower.

heavier rust takes longer, as you thought.

My suggestion is run it for 8 hours or so and take a look; Meaning pulled the part and scrub it off with a stiff nylon brush. If its done, go to the next part; if its not, round 2...

Experience is the best teacher,

 

[Mark in Indiana]

gman & jp:
Thanks for the compliments.
Next is filling a hole at the end of the slide, and moving forward to finishing it.

 

[SweetD]

Unusual to see a hole like that at the end of the slide.

Lots of times slides would crack lengthwise, and users would drill a hole to stop the crack.

But I don't see a crack, and the hole is really quite big...interesting and strange!

 

[gman007]

007, the answer is unfortunately, "It depends"

Clean anodes and its faster.

Larger anode surface and its faster and they gunk up slower.

heavier rust takes longer, as you thought.

My suggestion is run it for 8 hours or so and take a look; Meaning pulled the part and scrub it off with a stiff nylon brush. If its done, go to the next part; if its not, round 2...

Experience is the best teacher,

Outlaw
Thanks much for the as usual great advice, I will do as you have suggested.
Cheers
007

 

[Jp267]

007, the answer is unfortunately, "It depends"

Clean anodes and its faster.

Larger anode surface and its faster and they gunk up slower.

heavier rust takes longer, as you thought.

My suggestion is run it for 8 hours or so and take a look; Meaning pulled the part and scrub it off with a stiff nylon brush. If its done, go to the next part; if its not, round 2...

Experience is the best teacher,

Good info. Thanks!

Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

 

[gman007]

gman & jp:
Thanks for the compliments.
Next is filling a hole at the end of the slide, and moving forward to finishing it.

Mark
Are you going to fill it by welding it and then grinding and sanding the spot?
007

 

[drivesitfar]

Mark: i've bot a few Reed old vises where that big bolt holding the swivel base on was very loose so maybe the prior owner on yours moved your vise and it just fell off especially if he was pounding on that slide.

even though the hole in the slide doesn't effect the use if it hasn't mushroomed the slide what in the hell was the user doing or thinking when he did that?

please take a few pictures if you have time and post up how you fix that which really isn't a common issue, but i'm sure there are dimples on a lot of old vises that could be cleaned up with your methods.

ALL: great information about E Tanks and maybe this winter i'll get one set up to start my major DE RUSTING some of my PNW gold. good luck 007 and JP on your quest to figure out your E tanks too.

cheers and have a great day

 

[BrettJ74]

gman & jp:
Thanks for the compliments.
Next is filling a hole at the end of the slide, and moving forward to finishing it.

I have a interesting hole like that on the back of my Morgan 160 I can't for the life of me figure out why it's there.

Also I as well just made a electrolysis tank and am very happy with the results. It should make the derusting process much easier

 

[G-ManBart]

Outlaw
Thanks much for the as usual great advice, I will do as you have suggested.
Cheers
007

I'm not sure why so many folks here are stuck on electrolysis. It's slow, messy, leaves moisture everywhere, gives off fumes, etc, etc. I've used it, and having used EvapoRust, I can't imagine ever going back to an e-tank. ER leaves the parts as clean, or cleaner, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about getting the vise completely dry inside and out. Take out out, let it air dry, or blow it off with compressed air, and when you're ready, light wire wheel and then paint. The nice thing is you can use it many times so the overall cost is very minimal per vise.

 

[BrettJ74]

For me it comes down to time and what I have at home. Most of my projects aren't on any kind of deadline so leaving a part for a few days or a week even while I'm doing other projects is like killing two birds with one stone. Also my previous method was sandblasting which I only had the ability to do at work was time consuming and a pain, hauling heavy *** vise parts t and from work. At a recent estate sale I bought a portable sandblasting kits but have yet to try it, I'm not sure how well these work, but for 5 bucks I figured it was worth a try..
With kids and animals running around I try to stay away from chemicals. Maybe as time goes on I'll loose my enthusiasm for the E-Tank but for now it suits my needs nicely

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Drives & gman:
I'll be glad to document how I fixed the hole in the slide. Likely I'll drill it out, cut a 5/16"-18 thread in it, install a threaded plug in the hole, silver solder the top side and sand/polish.

SweetD & brett:
My guess is that the hole was drilled into the slide to bend a piece of rod stock. I can see doing that in place of a bending jig, in a production environment.

 

[Outlawmws]

At $20 +- a gallon. I've no real interest in Evaporust, but for very select items. As mentioned I'm rarely in that much of a hurry, and Evaporust still takes time, so i'm not sure how much you can claim for time savings...

The only two really fast methods are wire wheel; which IS a mess, or sand/media blasting, which can also be a mess, and I don't like what it does to the surface look.

 

[Outlawmws]

Holes: I suspect someone wanted it for driving pins though while disassembling parts...

 

[Fretters]

I'm not sure why so many folks here are stuck on electrolysis. It's slow, messy, leaves moisture everywhere, gives off fumes, etc, etc. I've used it, and having used EvapoRust, I can't imagine ever going back to an e-tank. ER leaves the parts as clean, or cleaner, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about getting the vise completely dry inside and out. Take out out, let it air dry, or blow it off with compressed air, and when you're ready, light wire wheel and then paint. The nice thing is you can use it many times so the overall cost is very minimal per vise.

Electrolysis doesn't produce any fumes whatsoever, if one were of a mind to be pedantic and correcting... I'm assuming EvapoRust is also like many other chemicals and becomes less effective with each use?

 

[Outlawmws]

Fret, It does produce Hydrogen. so in an enclosed area could be problematic...

Once of the new guys to an Etank recently struck a spark with a live lead and wore the red foam on his shirt...

 

[Fretters]

Aye, but gasses aren't necessarily fumes as such. It'd be a tenuous association between hydrogen and the definition of a fume, IMHO.

Had read that one about the shirt.

 

[G-ManBart]

With kids and animals running around I try to stay away from chemicals. Maybe as time goes on I'll loose my enthusiasm for the E-Tank but for now it suits my needs nicely

EvapoRust is non-toxic and biodegradable. That's probably safer than an electrocution source

 

[G-ManBart]

At $20 +- a gallon. I've no real interest in Evaporust, but for very select items. As mentioned I'm rarely in that much of a hurry, and Evaporust still takes time, so i'm not sure how much you can claim for time savings...

The only two really fast methods are wire wheel; which IS a mess, or sand/media blasting, which can also be a mess, and I don't like what it does to the surface look.

Most items I only have to soak overnight. Sometimes I'll dunk them before I leave for work, and pull them when I get home...usually that's all that they need where electrolysis often takes much longer.

Sure, it's $20 a gallon, but you can use it many times. I've been using the same batch of ER for many months....probably close to a year now. It still seems to work just like when I got it.

 

[G-ManBart]

Electrolysis doesn't produce any fumes whatsoever, if one were of a mind to be pedantic and correcting... I'm assuming EvapoRust is also like many other chemicals and becomes less effective with each use?

Yes, that is being pedantic...for no apparent reason.

Would you be happier with "vapor" or maybe "vapour"?

I'm not particularly thrilled with hydrogen bubbling out of the e-tank in my shop when I can use something that is non-toxic, nonflammable, biodegradable, doesn't pose a shock hazard, and also has a pleasant scent.

EvapoRust does eventually stop working, but I don't know how long it takes. I've read that it's directly related to the amount of rust it removes, so the larger, rustier your parts are, the sooner it will stop working. I've been using a batch for many months, probably close to a year, and it's still working fine.

 

[Outlawmws]

The "Electrocution Source" is 12V Not likely to kill anyone...

If your talking about the AC side of the charger, every single room in most any home has AC outlets and commonly something plunged into at least one of them...


As to Evapo rust's toxicity: here is what they say on their MSDS (Bold added by me):

Inhalation: None

Skin Contact: Wash all affected skin areas with soap
and water after use.

Eye Contact: Flush eyes with running water.

Ingestion: If swallowed give victim two glasses of water and
INDUCE VOMITING by using ipecac syrup or placing two fingers at
the back of the throat. Get immediate medical attention. Do not
give anything by mouth to an unconscious person.

It may not be violently toxic to the environment, but it sure seems to be to people...

The residue on an E tank on the other hand is so save it can be added to your garden for iron loving plants... (I wouldn't recommend ingesting it however)

 

[Outlawmws]

Most items I only have to soak overnight. Sometimes I'll dunk them before I leave for work, and pull them when I get home...usually that's all that they need where electrolysis often takes much longer.

Sure, it's $20 a gallon, but you can use it many times. I've been using the same batch of ER for many months....probably close to a year now. It still seems to work just like when I got it.

Most things I derust only take overnight. The E tank has NO odor, and the Hydrogen is easily dispersed by running it outside or where it can vent easily.

And please stop saying its Non Toxic, read the excerpt I just posted from thier MSDS. Again, it may be relatively benign to the environment, its NOT non toxic...

 

[KMScott]

I gave up on the e-tank, threw everything away, wasted to much time trying to make something rust free with it and tried every ones method. I tried believe me.

I use stripper with no gloves and a Dewalt wire wheel on my 4-1/2 angle grinder after wiping down the vise after stripping with lacquer thinner. I clean up the corners with a 1/8 inch shank wire wheel in my dremel in all spots that my angle grinder can not reach. Takes a couple hours and the vise is clean and ready for the finish. I will not read how bad the aircraft stripper is because it does not bother my hands and I do not care. I am thick skinned. I wear eye protection and a dust mask.

Just to busy to screw around with a messy e-tank that does not work like I expect. If you guys have success then great but I give up on it. Just my two cents.

 

[va.grouseman]

Me to KMS, I do most of my cleaning up with stripper and wire wheel.---To each his own, but that process is good enough for me.---I did clean a couple up with the vinegar trick like Drive mentioned.---Both ways work pretty good.---I don't guess it would be sufficient enough If I was going to create a museum masterpiece, but I'm not.

I was glad you mentioned the breathing mask because some of these old vintage vises and tools have very old paint on them that came out of the lead paint era.---Eye protection is a no brainer.

 

[chrisnazzy]

The big Rock Island I just got had several coats of paint on it. Looks like the original was gray. I was going to have my powdercoat buddy media blast it for me but when I took it to him he told me I needed to degrease it first. It just had years of gunk plus a ton of sawdust.

I decided to just try the Simple Green soak and wire wheel chucked up in my older M18 drill. Just over 24 hours in a 4 to 1 concentrate of Simple Green and the paint could almost be wiped off. Anything left came right if with the wire wheel. 1st pic is as found. 2nd pic is mostly cleaned up. I'm really having a hard time deciding on a color so the 3rd pic shows it just primed for now.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[G-ManBart]

And please stop saying its Non Toxic, read the excerpt I just posted from thier MSDS. Again, it may be relatively benign to the environment, its NOT non toxic...

You can argue with Evapo-Rust. They say non-toxic, and non-corrosive on their website and on the bottle.

Plenty of things aren't toxic, but shouldn't be ingested.

 

[va.grouseman]

Beautiful Rock there Chrisnazzy.

 

[chrisnazzy]

Beautiful Rock there Chrisnazzy.[emoji106]

Thank you sir. Once I decide on a color I'm looking forward to showing it off over in the vises of GJ thread. I also like the Rock Island so much I'm working a deal on getting another one......only this time a 3 1/2" jaw stationary.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Outlawmws]

You can argue with Evapo-Rust. They say non-toxic, and non-corrosive on their website and on the bottle.

Plenty of things aren't toxic, but shouldn't be ingested.

I'l, go by whats is on their MSDS, not what their Marketing Hype says.

 

[tjdux]

Hey guys just got a pair of big vices for $20 a peice. One is an imported cummins brand that has a spinning head with both streight and pipe jaws. It seems to work ok (probably great once cleaned and lubed) but the head locking mechanism seems to be gone or i just cant figure it out.

I do beleive the 2 allen fasteners in the back are set screws but curious if anyone can confirm.

Secondly i got this ev slightly larger vice.That's a 4 inch jaw sad harbor freight vice on top for scale lol.

It has this label.

I think it says Model av-6 jaw width 6 inches weight ?3 lbs.

Its at least 30 some pounds.



The front jaw slips right off since there is no handle. I feel all it needs to be repaired is a handle but i really haven't a clue how to find one.

Also can anyone id a brand? Its only markings are the sticker label and this nice #6 on the front jaw

Thanks for any help guys.

 

[trijeff]

Chinese on the first and Taiwanese on the second

 

[tjdux]

Chinese on the first and Taiwanese on the second

Thats too bad. How can you tell? Not doubting you just wanna learn. Also any clue how the front spin handle is suposed to look?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[454ragtop]

Hey guys just got a pair of big vices for $20 a peice. One is an imported cummins brand that has a spinning head with both streight and pipe jaws. It seems to work ok (probably great once cleaned and lubed) but the head locking mechanism seems to be gone or i just cant figure it out.

I do beleive the 2 allen fasteners in the back are set screws but curious if anyone can confirm.

Secondly i got this ev slightly larger vice.That's a 4 inch jaw sad harbor freight vice on top for scale lol.

It has this label.

I think it says Model av-6 jaw width 6 inches weight ?3 lbs.

Its at least 30 some pounds.



The front jaw slips right off since there is no handle. I feel all it needs to be repaired is a handle but i really haven't a clue how to find one.

Also can anyone id a brand? Its only markings are the sticker label and this nice #6 on the front jaw

Thanks for any help guys.

Did you post these in another thread? Could have sworn I already answered the origin and rotating lock questions earlier.

 

[2oolhound]

The 1st one looks like a larkin or torin but yours doesn't have the rotating locks just behind the head. These ones have them on both sides. Maybe it locks when you clamp something in the jaws.

 

[tjdux]

Did you post these in another thread? Could have sworn I already answered the origin and rotating lock questions earlier.

Yes i posted this in the garage sale thread and i was reccomneded here to hopefully find some help on repairing them.

I did figure out the rotation lock.

The allen socket bolts on each side of the round collar lock the rotation. I originally thought they may be set screws but they are bolts. The squeeze the entire rotating assembly to the base.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[454ragtop]

Yes i posted this in the garage sale thread and i was reccomneded here to hopefully find some help on repairing them.

I did figure out the rotation lock.

The allen socket bolts on each side of the round collar lock the rotation. I originally thought they may be set screws but they are bolts. The squeeze the entire rotating assembly to the base.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Oh, Ok, thought I was losing my mind for a minute there. Did you try clamping something in the jaws and see if the rotation would lock? I have the one shown here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6701952#post6701952 Has those same 2 bolts, and that's how it works.

 

[tjdux]

Oh, Ok, thought I was losing my mind for a minute there. Did you try clamping something in the jaws and see if the rotation would lock? I have the one shown here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6701952#post6701952 Has those same 2 bolts, and that's how it works.

No i havent tried clamping anything because the acme rod or something is rusted stuck just enough that i cant tighten or loose the jaws because the whole head just spins.

I did get it all apart and learned the 2 bolts seem to be the locking mechanism. I did clean the acme rod and the shaft on the moving rod and everything should have moved well enough to test but when i put it back together it still wont operate smoothly. I think i have the retaining nut that holds the acme rod too tight and its keeping tension on the rod.

If i get a chance to get back out there i will try and snag some pics of its' internal makeup. That would likely be much more helpful for both advice and anyone else trying to fix one


Man that red vice you have linked looks just about identical to this one i found. Good chance it's same manufacturer just rebranded. Do you still have it by chance? Im curious how tight the castle nut on the rear or the acme shaft is?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Outlawmws]

The 2 bolts are NOT locks. and should be set so it can be rotated, it locks when you tighten something in the jaws, but first you need to de-rust and lube the threads, and make sure there are no burrs...

The one with the big 6, is exactly like one I had well over 30 years ago and broke three time before welding it up one more time and giving it away to a guy who also broke it.

 

[tjdux]

The 2 bolts are NOT locks. and should be set so it can be rotated, it locks when you tighten something in the jaws, but first you need to de-rust and lube the threads, and make sure there are no burrs...

The one with the big 6, is exactly like one I had well over 30 years ago and broke three time before welding it up one more time and giving it away to a guy who also broke it.

That's too bad about the big 6 vice. I'm moslty a wood worker i just want a nice big vice because we had some on the farm I grew up on. I really wont be using it to beat on or bend anything heavy. It likely will last better than the tiny 4 inch harbor freight it's replacing anyways and it cost me less (so far) than the HF. Hooefully it lasts me a good while or at least long enough to find a good American one in my price range.

Also any help on how the handle is supposed to attach to the acme rod on this big 6? The friend i bought it from is gonna dig through his mess and see if he can find the original but most likey in gonna have to make a replacement. I have begun reading this whole thread but it's huge (over 200 pages on mobile) and i was hoping someone may be able to give me a post number of someone who has a similar style handle build. Or even just some tips on how the handle attaches to the rod.

The hole in the acme rod is pretty small, 1/8 or 3/16 and im guessing thats for a very hard pin that holds is ment to take all the rotational torque from the handle? If anyone can help me find some photos or posts on here of similar designed handles so i can start designing one i would really appreciate it.

Also, I understand what you're saying about the bolts not locking head rotation on the blue one. I did have it fully apart and the acme rod will spin pretty freely but once i put it back together its super tight. I did get some of the rust off with wire wheel on my bench grinder but that didn't get all of it. As i mentioned above, can the "castle" nut may be too tight? Would that cause excess tension on the rod? It was crazy tight when i got it, so i reassembled it the same way.

I didn't lube it though beyond some temporary wd40. I know on page 1 theres a list of lubes. Im not sure what i can find here locally but i have just regular bearing grease. Would that be a poor choice for the acme rod? I don't want to put tons of money into a Chinese brand.

EDIT: sorry went back and checked the first page and found the post number where you explain your lube preference. That gives me a good direction to move in. Thanks again.

Thanks for all the advice.

EDIT #2 had a few spare mins and i loosened the castle nut and now it turns fine.

 

[tjdux]

Oh, Ok, thought I was losing my mind for a minute there. Did you try clamping something in the jaws and see if the rotation would lock? I have the one shown here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6701952#post6701952 Has those same 2 bolts, and that's how it works.

Forgot to say in my other reply sorry for confusing you with the double post and also im very grateful for the advice. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[KMScott]

tjdux, To do it right in my opinion is to have access to a machine shop. I bought a American Scale with the handle and handle support missing and just by looking at my pictures you can see how I did mine. It takes careful measurement's and possibly more machining on the vise to create flat areas for the collar and a area for the large handle support to rotate on. You want the backlash to a minimum.

Note how I machined two flats on the threaded spindle and matched the same shape in the handle support. It will be to hard to match your same hole but possible.

Welding is another possibility. If welding I would use a very strong filler rod like Eutectic 680 TIG rod since you have no idea what Asia used for the spindle material. This filler rod was made for dissimilar metals and has a very strong tensile strength.

In my opinion I would find another vise but if you are looking for a fun project like I did on this A-Scale then go for it. Good Luck.