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VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

454ragtop

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Carver, MA
Thank you Drives! That sounds like a much better solution. I'll give it a try next time I get a chance to work on it.
Here is a photo of what I was trying to explain
image.jpg
Sorry it's a little dark

I'd suggest using the procedure I've mentioned here before to use a hex screwdriver insert held between the 2 jaws and turn it with a wrench, slowly opening the vise as the screw turns. They'll probably come out, and be reusable. If this fails, can always drill them out after.
 
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mike_paxton

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I don't see that but this one has only been degreased and simple greened once each. I think it's bleeding grease.

akasrick

akasrick:

Pic 1 & 2 show the "X" marking on my Hollands 25.

Since you have experience with Hollands, how did you get the main nut loose?

Normally I drive a pin up from bottom to get the main nut out, but couldn't find one on underneath section of the Hollands 25 (see pic 3)

Pic 4 & 5 show a pin securing the nut at rear, but instead of a pin, it looks more like a nail/bolt head.

Mike
 

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mike_paxton

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G-ManBart:

I'll give that "flip" a try and thks for the suggestion.

Mike

G-ManBart and KMScott :

I did the "flip" on collar this morning.

It did allow me to turn the handle on vise without it binding. However, if I connect the main screw to the nut and then turn the handle, I'm still getting some binding during part of rotation of the handle.

Although seeing improvement, I may still have to replace the collar, to see if can fully eliminate the partial binding.

BTW, this binding with the flip, is much less than what it had been.

Mike
 

akasrick

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akasrick:

Pic 1 & 2 show the "X" marking on my Hollands 25.

Since you have experience with Hollands, how did you get the main nut loose?

Normally I drive a pin up from bottom to get the main nut out, but couldn't find one on underneath section of the Hollands 25 (see pic 3)

Pic 4 & 5 show a pin securing the nut at rear, but instead of a pin, it looks more like a nail/bolt head.

Mike


One #221/2 here, 1/4" x1" pin with 2 tapers driven up from the bottom
Pin starts about 5" from front of shelf, your picture, measurements my vise.
A real PITA after the pin comes out. Piece of wood banging on nut that I'm guessing was pressed home.

akasrick

Browsing eBay found this Adv. for a Hollands 5 months later

akasrick
 

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GETRIDAONE

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Make sure to clean the channel and the nut good. You might have to file some high spots to make it slip back in. If I don't see any obvious binding points I coat the bottom and angled sides of the nut with a black magic marker. Start the nut in the channel until binding and remove to see where the coating has rubbed off. The nut needs to move just a little so the screw does not bind.
Good luck on reassembly !!
 

akasrick

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Make sure to clean the channel and the nut good. You might have to file some high spots to make it slip back in. If I don't see any obvious binding points I coat the bottom and angled sides of the nut with a black magic marker. Start the nut in the channel until binding and remove to see where the coating has rubbed off. The nut needs to move just a little so the screw does not bind.
Good luck on reassembly !!

There was no play in it at all, half way back in a hammer needs to be used, just have to mount it so I don't damage the vise body.
Thank you!

akasrick
 

G-ManBart

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Can you guys agree to disagree and end this pissin contest?

There's no contest involved. The topic is a product often used, and often recommended for use working on vises. Some folks don't seem to like it, probably because it's not given away for free, and seem to bash it and suggest it's unsafe which is ridiculous.

That really doesn't do justice when other folks might read the comments here and get worried because of the exaggerated claims some folks are making here.
 

G-ManBart

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G-ManBart and KMScott :

I did the "flip" on collar this morning.

It did allow me to turn the handle on vise without it binding. However, if I connect the main screw to the nut and then turn the handle, I'm still getting some binding during part of rotation of the handle.

Although seeing improvement, I may still have to replace the collar, to see if can fully eliminate the partial binding.

BTW, this binding with the flip, is much less than what it had been.

Mike

I can't recall...did you run the screw in and out of the nut with nothing else? Its possible to get a rough spot on the screw (or nut) that can cause some binding. Check it with and without lube just to be sure.
 

BMR24

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As DIF mentioned, I drill the heads. Centre punch first, then go with a drill the same diameter as the threads. I use a hand powered drill so that I can feel if I hit the insert.

I'd suggest using the procedure I've mentioned here before to use a hex screwdriver insert held between the 2 jaws and turn it with a wrench, slowly opening the vise as the screw turns. They'll probably come out, and be reusable. If this fails, can always drill them out after.

Thank you both, I used both of these methods and got the jaws removed. The screwdriver insert kept slipping out of the vise, so I used my 1/4" impact driver to remove one screw. The second one would not move at all and stalled out the impact and then the impact rated insert broke. So I drilled it out and am on to the next task. Perfect job for the millers falls breast drill. I appreciate everyone's ideas
image.jpg
 

mike_paxton

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I can't recall...did you run the screw in and out of the nut with nothing else? Its possible to get a rough spot on the screw (or nut) that can cause some binding. Check it with and without lube just to be sure.

Did run screw into nut by themselves with no issues

Mike
 

BMR24

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Did run screw into nut by themselves with no issues

Mike

The collar doesn't have any burrs or high spots right? You might see if it's rubbing anywhere in the slide. The main screw isn't just slightly bent up by the handle is it? I'd bet that would allow it to thread into the nut but still cause these issues
 

mike_paxton

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The collar doesn't have any burrs or high spots right? You might see if it's rubbing anywhere in the slide. The main screw isn't just slightly bent up by the handle is it? I'd bet that would allow it to thread into the nut but still cause these issues

BMR24:

When KMScott suggested replacing the collar, I re-looked and found the collar had wear on one part of the outside of the collar.

Plan to replace the old collar to see if that helps.

Main screw looks straight

Mike
 

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454ragtop

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Mike, you might look for a shiny spot inside the slide and just kiss it with a die grinder to give a little clearance.
 

KMScott

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BMR24:

When KMScott suggested replacing the collar, I re-looked and found the collar had wear on one part of the outside of the collar.

Plan to replace the old collar to see if that helps.

Main screw looks straight

Mike

Mike, I would replace the collar if it is .03 larger then the spindle shaft ID diameter, This would help the out of round collar from hitting the side's. Then spin the handle and watch the collar and see if it's face that rubs the casting is wobbling like where it only touches in one high spot. Sometimes the collar was cut crooked and not true to the bore. I know most of you guys do not have a milling machine in your workshop but when I have issues I machine the inside of the Dynamic Jaw Support to create a true surface so the replaced collar is rubbing as continuously. Maybe a dremel would work and a sharp file. Remember this sets your backlash too. I like to set the handle backlash at 12 to 3 oclock on all my restorations. This Prentiss was pretty tapered and I just had to create a true surface. The other pic is of a American Scale that was pretty bad. Grease is a good thing in this area. Good luck Mike.
 

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drivesitfar

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ALL: anybody ever repair a busted dynamic slide? i'm probably just going to use this as a parts vise, but this Reed 203 is pretty cute and i'd like to find a dynamic jaw if any of you might have one laying around where your static broke. i like my REEDS so probably won't send parts off this off to members, but i'm always open to trades or offers even if i just say NO it's worth a PM or email.
 

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454ragtop

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ALL: anybody ever repair a busted dynamic slide? i'm probably just going to use this as a parts vise, but this Reed 203 is pretty cute and i'd like to find a dynamic jaw if any of you might have one laying around where your static broke. i like my REEDS so probably won't send parts off this off to members, but i'm always open to trades or offers even if i just say NO it's worth a PM or email.

Well Drives, I know you said you don't want to part it, but if you change your mind I could use the static........
 

live311

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Middletown, CT
I just picked up a Columbian D44 with a broken foot on the swivel base. I can't seem to find a replacement base anywhere and the vise can't be mounted without it. Does anyone have a base laying around they would be willing to part with?
 

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drivesitfar

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Live: you live in a VISE RICH area so if you are patient that is a fairly good chance one of those vises will show up. or if you want to remove the swivel pins and just mount the vise with the two holes it should work fine as a non swiveler. also i can't recall for sure if there are two holes so if only one swivel pin you can drill a hole in the cast so you have a hole on each side and BEE CAREFUL.

454: speaking of living in a vise rich area haven't you been able to find a good Reed 203 cause another member just posted up that he found a Reed 1c on the vise thread that lives in the 3 or 4 state are around you.

or my arms don't reach 3,000 miles to arm wrestle you for your good dynamic, but maybe we can work something out.

thanks for the post!

ALL: anybody clean a Blacksmith vise have any pointers on doing so please post up any and all tips or is it fairly straight forward?

here's my first BS vise and it has a 5 inch wide jaw and maybe weighs 75 pounds.
 

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BMR24

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ALL: anybody clean a Blacksmith vise have any pointers on doing so please post up any and all tips or is it fairly straight forward?

here's my first BS vise and it has a 5 inch wide jaw and maybe weighs 75 pounds.
When I cleaned up mine I hust used a cup brush and a wire wheel and some wd-40. It turned out pretty well, but wasn't as rusty as yours. I'll have to post some photos someday. If you come up with a cool stand idea for it I'm all ears. I don't want to mount it to a bench so that as I move my anvil and forge the vise can come along as well
 

BMR24

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And don't put a roller bearing on the main screw, you want that handle and jaw to stay where you set it so that hot workpieces can be put into the vise and worked as fast as possible before they cool down. Also I've herd of guys who put bearings on their vises taking them off right after that handle swings around and hits them where it hurts
 

KMScott

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When I cleaned up mine I hust used a cup brush and a wire wheel and some wd-40. It turned out pretty well, but wasn't as rusty as yours. I'll have to post some photos someday. If you come up with a cool stand idea for it I'm all ears. I don't want to mount it to a bench so that as I move my anvil and forge the vise can come along as well

Buy some steel in denver and bring it up after designing the stand and I'll show ya how to weld it up. Here is one that is pretty nice and fairly simple to build. The fun is designing one from the steel you have in hand.

Drives, you are so funny. How do you clean a Blacksmith vise? There is a Vise Repair thread that has all the info you need, take your time and go through it and pick out the option that suits your materials on hand. Be sure to show pic's of your finished vise.
 

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454ragtop

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454: speaking of living in a vise rich area haven't you been able to find a good Reed 203 cause another member just posted up that he found a Reed 1c on the vise thread that lives in the 3 or 4 state are around you.

or my arms don't reach 3,000 miles to arm wrestle you for your good dynamic, but maybe we can work something out.

thanks for the post!
Funny you mention that, I have actually found another 203, but my first one is in pretty nice shape, just has the jaw support tongue broken off the static. Still works OK, but be nice to find a good static. Maybe I'll luck out and find one missing its swivel base, like the 203-1/2 on my welding stand, and we can both have nice 203's. :beer:
 
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drivesitfar

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BMR: thanks for the information about how you cleaned your blacksmith vise. i pretty much know how to clean old cast iron and spiff it up and just curious if there were any pins holding some parts in place or any tips on taking it apart. so you didn't take it apart and just cleaned it up? i've got a cool old steel stand that i've had for years that was a blacksmith stand i might use or i've got maybe 40 tons of steel laying around i might have my neighbor help me weld up something if i see something better. the one Kevin posted has some nice storage on it.

454: it sure looks like JOE'S stuff. is he getting out of VISES (VICES) and changing his name? i thought i saw him post up some vises he bought a few days ago otherwise i'd have been worried he passed on to the best vises made.

SPD: Joe is a great guy and he's got some very very cool stuff and he's usually pretty picky on what he buys and how he repairs or restores his stuff.

Kevin: to my knowledge not one Blacksmith vise has been taken apart and posted on this Vise Repair 101 thread since i started it years ago. I just wanted to know if there is anything i should know that might keep me from breaking mine or damaging it. one of these days i'll get organized and post some pictures for you. how about this cedar mailbox stand i just built out of some cedar i had stacked in my backyard? it's posts are 6.5 foot tall 8x8's that i planed and stained. the old mailbox stand i built almost 30 years ago was about ready to fall down so an update was needed. i'd rather find old vises than work on them, but i think you might already know that.

ALL: anybody have some pictures of a blacksmith vise taken apart and maybe some words to help me (and others) when it comes time to work on ours? thanks
 

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Spdfreak91

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Ahhh man he’s a gj member , good to know , my friends wants a vice so I’m going shopping for him while he’s away can’t wait to see what I find !
 
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drivesitfar

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SPD: JOE is usually more than fair and even if he isn't selling the one(s) you like or need it's worth it to meet him and say hi and take a tour. have fun!!
 

mike_paxton

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When I cleaned up mine I hust used a cup brush and a wire wheel and some wd-40. It turned out pretty well, but wasn't as rusty as yours. I'll have to post some photos someday. If you come up with a cool stand idea for it I'm all ears. I don't want to mount it to a bench so that as I move my anvil and forge the vise can come along as well

drivesitfar:

On blacksmith post vises, I do what BMR24 suggested above.

For me, the blacksmith post vises have to be fully disassembled, cleaned and lubed and so take much more time to do than a traditional bench vise.

Mike
 

BMR24

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Drives I did fully take it apart, but the only thing that took some effort was getting the spring out of the mounting bracket. I just took off the dynamic jaw, and slid the mounting bracket down the post until I got to the chamfer and was able to twist the parts to the side and get the spring out. Then everything came right off. The nut (I think called a box) slides out of the static jaw and is the only cast iron part on the whole vise. Everything else is forged wrought iron. I used some fitting brushes ( for cleaning pipe fittings) and cut the handles off and chucked them in my cordless drill to get into the tight areas. I greased the mainscrew and box with synthetic grease. The only issue I have is my spring is just a little sprung and I have to fix that. I know that it's heat treated so I haven't heated it up and reshaped it yet because I don't know how to re heat treat it.
 
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Hiatt1991

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Prescott, AZ
Here's the before and after of my 3.5" Craftsman vise I got last weekend at a garage sale for $15. It was my first restoration and I think it came out pretty well. I couldn't have done it without the help on this forum. I used a wire wheel to strip it down to bare metal. Then I masked everything off and gave it 4 coats of rustoleum enamel paint.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/UaTTNFK' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/UaTTNFK.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/zSOWSnq' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/zSOWSnq.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>
 
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drivesitfar

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Hiatt: if you want to practice on a few bigger ones enjoy your search or if you live near me in the PNW i'll loan you ones to practice on even though i like my vises NAKED without any paint/color. you might want to put your location in your GJ profile cause if you are asking questions different parts of the USA and world will get you better answers (maybe). WELL DONE!!

Mike: do you have any pictures to post of you taking apart your blacksmith vises? I can't say i've seen any pictures of one taken apart yet and i'm sure not only this old guy would like to see how they are put together. i'm guessing just a screw on the back of the screw or is that just a cover?

do you take the bolt off where the legs meet cause i'm probably going to leave mine alone?

thanks

BMR: any pictures of your blacksmith vise taken apart or maybe a step by step cause even though i've taken apart more than a few bench vises this is my first Blacksmith one. is the spring supposed to be welded or is that something a prior owner/farmer did when it broke or he lost the part holding it in place?

thank you

ALL: anybody got any ideas where i can put a vise on my new cedar mailbox stand? not to sure my wife will approve so i need to be a bit discreeet.

cheers
 

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Hiatt1991

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Hiatt: if you want to practice on a few bigger ones enjoy your search or if you live near me in the PNW i'll loan you ones to practice on even though i like my vises NAKED without any paint/color. you might want to put your location in your GJ profile cause if you are asking questions different parts of the USA and world will get you better answers (maybe). WELL DONE!!

Mike: do you have any pictures to post of you taking apart your blacksmith vises? I can't say i've seen any pictures of one taken apart yet and i'm sure not only this old guy would like to see how they are put together. i'm guessing just a screw on the back of the screw or is that just a cover?

do you take the bolt off where the legs meet cause i'm probably going to leave mine alone?

thanks

BMR: any pictures of your blacksmith vise taken apart or maybe a step by step cause even though i've taken apart more than a few bench vises this is my first Blacksmith one. is the spring supposed to be welded or is that something a prior owner/farmer did when it broke or he lost the part holding it in place?

thank you

ALL: anybody got any ideas where i can put a vise on my new cedar mailbox stand? not to sure my wife will approve so i need to be a bit discreeet.

cheers

Thanks! Will do
 

BrettJ74

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Jan 8, 2017
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Vancouver Washington
I know that others have had this problem, so I thought I would post how I dealt with it.
I just bought this Morgan Chicago 140 4" vise and the Center pivot bolt was missing, I have a Morgan 145 also and it used the same bolt, so all I had to do was replicate.
The shank on the original bolt was almost 1" so I started with a 1" bolt and chucked it up in the lathe and cut it off at the length of the shank on the original. I then drilled it out to 3/4".
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e644f575f91ed6db9b2c74014037c160.jpg.
I then did some measurements and figured out the remaining length of 3/4" coarse thread needed and cut a 3/4" bolt with some of the shank and some of the threads. I then inserted the smooth shank portion into the drilled hole in the 1" bolt, centered it up and TIG welded it into place.
I then sanded the head of the 1" bolt down to about 3/8" to match the original thickness. The size of the hex I bigger but it fit just fine on the vise, and works lime a charm.
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drivesitfar

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Hiatt: i saw you picked an Avatar and put in your location. :beer:

i also saw you posted your little Craftsman over on the vise thread and you've painted the letters and the little chevrons too so post them up here and tell us how you did it which i think was with a little paint brush?

Brett:
fantastic job making a new nut for your Morgan's missing one. nice that you had a similar Morgan vise's nut to copy, but still a great thought out and well done job making a new one.

ALL: back to this Blacksmith post vise of mine. is this weld at the bottom of the spring standard or did it break and it was welded as a repair? or is a holding piece missing and therefore welded?

also does the end piece at the back just screw off and if the vise has been sitting in a barn for 100 years will just Kroil work or does it need a vinegar soak or E bath?

thanks and any pictures you have of blacksmith and post vises apart or restored with you comments will be welcome not only by me, but by others in the future cause this thread is used a lot.
 
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