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Recommendations on equipment for home shop

The_Auto_Tech

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Hello all! New to the forum. Long time lurker. I use my garage to do automotive work. No plans to do any woodworking, paint work, or metal fab as the space isn't big enough for that, nor do I have the interest. I don't do any tubing or exhaust work (minus complete exhaust component replacement or brake lines, fuel lines, etc.), so I don't need any pipe cutters/benders/etc. I don't do any welding or brazing work either, just never need it and there's an exhaust shop not far from me that does amazing work for reasonable prices.

Currently I have some decent equipment. I've got the main stuff - 60-gallon compressor with nice hose and reel, 3 large toolboxes, 20-ton press, good jack and stands, excellent lighting, tons of hand tools and pneumatic tools, lots of various yard equipment, lots of various saws, nice multi-task ladder, engine brace, 12,000 BTU in wall A/C unit, 220v with 30 amp service, deep freeze/fridge, etc.

Really all I'm missing is a hoist, a decent vice setup, a decent bench grinder/wire wheel setup, and a decent heat setup. The hoist won't happen since the trusses aren't setup for it and the garage isn't tall enough. I haven't decided on a vice or bench grinder/wheel setup yet either. Heat is something I'm looking into now.

Is there any equipment that you guys think I should have that I'm missing? Thanks!
 
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James-W

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I find that an oxi-acetylene welder is nice to have, not so much for welding, but to cut something off or to heat something up. I don't use mine a lot but when I need it in order to get the job done, then it becomes indispensable.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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I find that an oxi-acetylene welder is nice to have, not so much for welding, but to cut something off or to heat something up. I don't use mine a lot but when I need it in order to get the job done, then it becomes indispensable.

I considered getting an oxy-acetylene torch setup as they do come in very handy, but they can be a pretty spendy setup to buy and maintain. To be honest for the most part I've just used the small MAP gas torches and had about 90% success rate. It takes longer to heat, but I find that most of time it works. Generally if I need to cut I just use my Snap-On die-grinder with 3" reinforced cut-off discs. Since I mostly stay away from exhaust work and fabrication work I tend to find the metal-working tools are a moot point for myself. To be honest if I'm doing work and it comes down to needing a welder I farm it out as it's generally not worth my time to screw with.
 

bad_idea

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You mentioned yard tools. I assume they are in the garage? If so, the BEST tool you can add is a shed. Doesn't need to be a huge shed, just big enough to get the lawn equipment and related equipment out of your work space.
 

gunguy

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Welcome to the forum.

Since your trusses won't take the load, maybe a mobile adjustable gantry crane? By hoist, do you mean car lift?

Without a location and size of your shop, it's hard to make any recommendations heaters. Consider adding your location.

What type of work do you like or want to do in your shop? Brake work? Engine / transmission rebuilds? Light maintenance?

Give the folks a little insight and you'll find them a helpful and creative group.

Again, welcome aboard!

Jim
 

bad_idea

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I have two items in my garage that make pulling engines a piece of cake:

A beam across the width of the garage 8' from the back wall. The beam is against the ceiling and adequately supported by posts within the wall cavity. Hang a chain fall from it to pull motors, and unload heavy things from the truck.

Also have a 2" receiver hitch bolted to the garage floor. Bought a 2"x12" receiver hitch from Harbor Freight and welded it to a piece of 12"x12"x1/4" plate. Drilled holes in the corners of the plate and bolted it to the slab. I also have an electric winch that slips into the receiver hitch. Works great for winching dead cars up the driveway into the garage.

When it is time to install a motor - Hang the motor with trans from the fall, hook the winch to the car, drop the motor in as you winch the car in. I dropped the 350 SBC w/ TH350 into my 79 Camaro and had the bolts in the mounts in 10 minutes.
 

Falcon67

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Need an idea of the size of your space. And the "not tall enough" is well, maybe maybe not. You might consider my ceiling too low for a lift, but I still have one.

I have to large HF vise on my bench and it's been fine. It's not a high buck Made in USA piece but it's a workhorse. Northern Tool has a good selection of grinders and such. For heat, I use a Dayton 5000 watt heater that keeps my space nice. You can run through the link in my sig to see whats in my space, maybe get you some ideas.
 

6768rogues

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I have two buildings with Reznor hanging furnaces. The work very well, and take up zero floor space.
I agree with the suggestion about oxygen-acetylene torches. You can heat or cut fasteners and heat steel to bend it. There is some up front cost, but I bought mine used 25 years ago with the tanks. I use it occasionally and swap tanks for full ones every couple of years.
I have a lift, but you either have room or not. It is worth every penny. If no lift, a few good floor jacks and jack stands are in order.
I also like having a big plastic tub to drain stuff into.
And good lights, lots of light.
 

Schurkey

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Low- or mid-rise lift. Mine lifts to about 40 inches or so. Perfect for tire or brake work. Mine is installed "backwards", so I have access for oil changes but the hydraulic cylinder is in the way for trans service or differential lube service.

Beer fridge
and a good-sounding stereo.

Automotive Oscilloscope. Indispensable for diagnosing electric fuel pumps and various ignition misfires. I started with a Counselor II from Snap-On. It's still cream-of-the-crop for ignition work. Now I also have a Matco/OTC handheld job for electric accessories and sensors.

Scan tool suitable for the newest vehicles you'd work on. Better to have a used "professional-grade" unit than a new "consumer-grade" tool.

I have various welders which have proven handy for bolt removal. The MIG was used to build-up the shanks, and weld nuts to the broken exhaust bolts on my Trailblazer.
 
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CN Spots

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If space is tight, something like a QuickJack maybe?

I bought a torpedo heater for like 50 bucks at a yard sale and that thing will run you out after 5 minutes on low. After a few on/off cycles, everything in the shop is warm and cozy.

AC unit or high power fan.

I've also found that an old electric leaf blower is very handy. Screw brooms.
 

ItsNemo

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Lift...seriously, the minimum height you need to make a lift useful is only like 8 feet. My garage is 9 feet and I put in a flush mount mid-rise scissor lift and it makes working on vehicles amazing. So much easier than jacks/jack stands/creeper.
 

vetron

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i'm a poor welder but have found a lot of uses for the welding table I built. Sometimes a clean metal surface is invaluable. Used it to refurbish the carburetor, mounted a vice on one end, a pipe vice on the other, and drill press on the other.
One day I want to do what my dad did and mount the vice or maybe even the drill on a steel piece of huge pipe to a semi truck wheel so it sits by itself out of the way.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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My daughter told me the neatest tool in my shop is the car hoist. I do use it whenever possible.

Would love to have one, but not enough height to use a normal two post lift and the trusses can't be re-configured for it.

You mentioned yard tools. I assume they are in the garage? If so, the BEST tool you can add is a shed. Doesn't need to be a huge shed, just big enough to get the lawn equipment and related equipment out of your work space.

The only yard tools in the garage would be the pole-saw, weedeater, and leaf blower which are all hung on the wall and well out of the way. I have a 5x7 shed that houses all the other **** - mower, hose reel, power washer, hand yard tools, yard chemicals, etc. The pole-saw, weedeater, and leaf blower are a bit large to keep in the shed without taking up a lot of valuable space. I'd build a bigger shed but I'd need to pour a new slab for it and to be honest, that's a lot of work to store a couple more items in the shed. :)

I didn't see a jack, jack stands, ramps, lift, drill press, cherry picker .............listed.
Just how big of a list do you want?

3 ton aluminum/steel jack, 4 12-ton jack stands. I hate ramps. Space isn't tall enough for a lift. I'd like a drill press but it's a tool I wouldn't use much and my father-in-law 8 blocks away has a very nice one. Would rather save the space for a nice vice and grinder on a floor mount. I've considered a cherry picker, but honestly, I stay away from engine/transmission work for the most part. It's too easy to get hurt doing it, and the big work doesn't pay as well as a bunch of the small stuff.

As far as heat goes I would look for a used home furnace. A non-high-efficiency. That's what I have and it works awesome.

Looking into that as well, thanks.

Welcome to the forum.

Since your trusses won't take the load, maybe a mobile adjustable gantry crane? By hoist, do you mean car lift?

Without a location and size of your shop, it's hard to make any recommendations heaters. Consider adding your location.

What type of work do you like or want to do in your shop? Brake work? Engine / transmission rebuilds? Light maintenance?

Give the folks a little insight and you'll find them a helpful and creative group.

Again, welcome aboard!

Jim

Yes, by hoist I mean car lift, like a 2-post. Shop is 15x27 approximately, located in central IA. Work consists of basically everything except engine R&R, transmission R&R (unless FWD), exhaust, and fabrication work. Diagnosis, brakes, suspension, maintenance, etc. That's why I haven't gotten a cherry picker or crane, I just don't need it for what I do and I stay plenty busy without doing major overhaul. Thanks for the welcome!

I have two items in my garage that make pulling engines a piece of cake:

A beam across the width of the garage 8' from the back wall. The beam is against the ceiling and adequately supported by posts within the wall cavity. Hang a chain fall from it to pull motors, and unload heavy things from the truck.

Also have a 2" receiver hitch bolted to the garage floor. Bought a 2"x12" receiver hitch from Harbor Freight and welded it to a piece of 12"x12"x1/4" plate. Drilled holes in the corners of the plate and bolted it to the slab. I also have an electric winch that slips into the receiver hitch. Works great for winching dead cars up the driveway into the garage.

When it is time to install a motor - Hang the motor with trans from the fall, hook the winch to the car, drop the motor in as you winch the car in. I dropped the 350 SBC w/ TH350 into my 79 Camaro and had the bolts in the mounts in 10 minutes.

Those are some really great ideas! Fortunately I don't have an issue with dead cars coming in. My garage is downhill from the street, so I can easily roll cars into it. If I need to pull them out I just pull them out with my F-150, but I've only had to do that twice in 5 years. The chainfall and beam is a good idea for sure, and I'd much rather do that than try and squeeze a cherry picker around everything if I do get into engine rebuilding and replacement. For now though, I have no want to R&R engines. It just eats up a lot of time.

Need an idea of the size of your space. And the "not tall enough" is well, maybe maybe not. You might consider my ceiling too low for a lift, but I still have one.

I have to large HF vise on my bench and it's been fine. It's not a high buck Made in USA piece but it's a workhorse. Northern Tool has a good selection of grinders and such. For heat, I use a Dayton 5000 watt heater that keeps my space nice. You can run through the link in my sig to see whats in my space, maybe get you some ideas.

15x27x8. I could put a two post in it between the trusses, but I'd only be able to lift the car about 4 feet to them. I'd probably be better off served with a scissor lift. I'm leaning heavily towards just getting a HF or Northern setup for the grinder and vice as their equipment has always served me well. I was going to pick up a 7500 watt electric heater at Menards for 250 bucks that has a remote and such, but I'm open to other options. :) Thanks!

I have two buildings with Reznor hanging furnaces. The work very well, and take up zero floor space.
I agree with the suggestion about oxygen-acetylene torches. You can heat or cut fasteners and heat steel to bend it. There is some up front cost, but I bought mine used 25 years ago with the tanks. I use it occasionally and swap tanks for full ones every couple of years.
I have a lift, but you either have room or not. It is worth every penny. If no lift, a few good floor jacks and jack stands are in order.
I also like having a big plastic tub to drain stuff into.
And good lights, lots of light.

Yea, I want to do hanging furnance or wall mount for sure. Either would work well and I have a spot for it already. I may invest into the oxy/acetylene torch next year. I've burnt up most of the tool budget this year between the compressor/hose reel setup, engine brace, press, and some hand tools. Next year I think I'll do the vice, grinder, and torch setup. I don't have the room for the lift unless it's a scissor one. I've got damn good floor stands and jack as well. I've got the drain tub and pans covered as well. For light I've got 5 3000 Lumen LED overhead lights and then 2 5000 Lumen LED tripod lights along with some very bright magnetic LED lights too. :)

Drill Press, Parts Washer, Blast Cabinet

Mentioned the drill press above. Blast cabinet would be cool if I was doing more fab or painting work, but for everything I've done a wire wheel or brush has been serving me perfectly. Parts washer would be nice too, and I am thinking of getting one. Gets a bit old using brake cleaner and a drain pan.

Beer fridge

Check. ;)

Low- or mid-rise lift. Mine lifts to about 40 inches or so. Perfect for tire or brake work. Mine is installed "backwards", so I have access for oil changes but the hydraulic cylinder is in the way for trans service or differential lube service.


and a good-sounding stereo.

Automotive Oscilloscope. Indispensable for diagnosing electric fuel pumps and various ignition misfires. I started with a Counselor II from Snap-On. It's still cream-of-the-crop for ignition work. Now I also have a Matco/OTC handheld job for electric accessories and sensors.

Scan tool suitable for the newest vehicles you'd work on. Better to have a used "professional-grade" unit than a new "consumer-grade" tool.

I have various welders which have proven handy for bolt removal. The MIG was used to build-up the shanks, and weld nuts to the broken exhaust bolts on my Trailblazer.

I've been thinking of doing the scissor style lift for a while now, just haven't looked at them closely. One would be nice for most suspension and brake work for sure. I've got a good bluetooth stereo as well. I have been looking into diagnostic equipment as well. Just haven't settled on something. I've used everything from factory scan tools to Snap On setups to Autel setups. I like the Autel because it's much cheaper and the updates are cheap too. Snap On charges an arm and a leg for their updates. I'm just not good enough at welding to make use of it. I also stay away mostly from exhaust work since there's a place near me that does extremely good work for a very decent price so I just farm it out.

If space is tight, something like a QuickJack maybe?

I bought a torpedo heater for like 50 bucks at a yard sale and that thing will run you out after 5 minutes on low. After a few on/off cycles, everything in the shop is warm and cozy.

AC unit or high power fan.

I've also found that an old electric leaf blower is very handy. Screw brooms.

Yea, it's decent in there with the kerosene torpedo heater but I'd like something that doesn't create stink and can maintain temp easily. I've got a 12,000 BTU A/C unit, but will be upgrading to a larger one next year. This one did pretty good, but I could use a bit more. I use the leaf blower to clean the shop as well. :)

Lift...seriously, the minimum height you need to make a lift useful is only like 8 feet. My garage is 9 feet and I put in a flush mount mid-rise scissor lift and it makes working on vehicles amazing. So much easier than jacks/jack stands/creeper.

I'll have to look into that! Thanks!


Thanks!

i'm a poor welder but have found a lot of uses for the welding table I built. Sometimes a clean metal surface is invaluable. Used it to refurbish the carburetor, mounted a vice on one end, a pipe vice on the other, and drill press on the other.
One day I want to do what my dad did and mount the vice or maybe even the drill on a steel piece of huge pipe to a semi truck wheel so it sits by itself out of the way.

That's what I'm gonna do with my wire wheel and vice for sure. Makes them portable as well and you can move them out of the way when not in use.
 

Falcon67

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15x27x8. I could put a two post in it between the trusses, but I'd only be able to lift the car about 4 feet to them. I'd probably be better off served with a scissor lift. I'm leaning heavily towards just getting a HF or Northern setup for the grinder and vice as their equipment has always served me well. I was going to pick up a 7500 watt electric heater at Menards for 250 bucks that has a remote and such, but I'm open to other options. Thanks!

You don't need 7500w in that space IMHO. And with an 8' ceiling, don't need a remote LOL. This 5kW kept my old 20x24 toasty and even will heat 682 sq/ft plus the 288 sq/ft work room.
ShopG73.jpg


And so what 48" - this is still $500 cheaper than a MaxJak
W-9FLiftwCar.jpg
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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You don't need 7500w in that space IMHO. And with an 8' ceiling, don't need a remote LOL. This 5kW kept my old 20x24 toasty and even will heat 682 sq/ft plus the 288 sq/ft work room.
ShopG73.jpg


And so what 48" - this is still $500 cheaper than a MaxJak
W-9FLiftwCar.jpg

I figure I'd just go a little more overboard than needed, especially living in Iowa. Honestly, I should just get a hoist. If it can pick a whole car up 3-4 feet off the ground that does help a ton.
 

Lelandwelds

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I think most people use a 4.5 " grinder far, far more often than a bench grinder. A vise, any vise, is essential. A chop saw, bandsaw, or sawsall is pretty handy. A mill is handier than a drill press. An engine hoist, chainfall, or telescoping gantry crane is hard to overlook. Workbench?

I cant picture being without the torch, welder, and related stuff. The only time I use a hydraulic press is to forge steel.

Everyones needs and interests are different. I hate mechanic work. I dont know what to tell you. Every project leaves me wishing I had some extra something I dont own. Go figure.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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I think most people use a 4.5 " grinder far, far more often than a bench grinder. A vise, any vise, is essential. A chop saw, bandsaw, or sawsall is pretty handy. A mill is handier than a drill press. An engine hoist, chainfall, or telescoping gantry crane is hard to overlook. Workbench?

I cant picture being without the torch, welder, and related stuff. The only time I use a hydraulic press is to forge steel.

Everyones needs and interests are different. I hate mechanic work. I dont know what to tell you. Every project leaves me wishing I had some extra something I dont own. Go figure.

I use 3" cut-off/grinder wheels on my die-grinder. I would like to have a grinder/wire wheel combo. Useful for cleaning up bolts, brake caliper brackets, etc. I already have a compound miter saw, circular saw, and sawzall. Not sure what I'd use a mill for. As stated above I don't do engine R&R, so I don't really need the engine hoist, chainfall, or gantry crane. My workbench is on the top of the Snap-On toolbox. I haven't needed a welder for anything yet in the last 6 years of being here. I use the **** out of the press for wheel bearings and suspension bushings. I just used it last week to do wheel bearings on a Polaris Predator in fact. I guess since I don't do any metal fabrication work I just haven't needed the fab stuff.
 

Falcon67

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Who says you need a welder just for automotive fab work LOL - granite counter top brackets I made for the kitchen.

CounterTopBrackets.jpg
 

theoldwizard1

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Really all I'm missing is a hoist, a decent vice setup, a decent bench grinder/wire wheel setup, and a decent heat setup.

In order


  • vice
  • grinder/wire wheel
  • heat

Oxy-acetylene is over kill for just heating, unless you come across a good deal on CL, including bottles. An air acetylene rig is a big step up from just propane.

I recently got a Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8" impact. Great for most items on your vehicle (except maybe lug nuts) and outdoor power equipment.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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In order


  • vice
  • grinder/wire wheel
  • heat

Oxy-acetylene is over kill for just heating, unless you come across a good deal on CL, including bottles. An air acetylene rig is a big step up from just propane.

I recently got a Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8" impact. Great for most items on your vehicle (except maybe lug nuts) and outdoor power equipment.

I'm for sure cool with doing the vice and grinder/wheel sooner than later. I've been having a lot of times where I have to get my hand grinder our wire wheel out and would be much easier to have both hands to handle the piece with a bench mounted setup. Also, they're fairly cheap. Same with the vice. It's getting old trying to wedge something somewhere or holding it with two pairs of pliers to bend it.

At this point I only use heat for stuck bolts. For anything that needs cut I generally just use a 3" cut-off wheel and it goes through it pretty easily and it's less mess than the torch dropping slag. To be honest the small bottle of MAP gas with an adjustable trigger torch end has worked for everything I've needed it to. That's why I'm hesitant to pick up an oxy/acetylene setup since I don't do any metal fab or cutting work. Even before I went on my own and worked at dealerships the only thing I used the torch for was heating stuck bolts or helping to remove press-in wheel bearings, both of which I've been able to do with the small MAP gas bottle at home fine.

As far as the impact goes I've got a Dewault 3/8" one along with a Dewault 1/4" impact driver, 1/4" screw gun, and 1/2" drill. Love that stuff and it takes a serious beating. Anything big just gets the Aircat 1/2" impact since I have a very nice air setup.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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Plans at this point are -

Heat/insulation
Vice
Grinder/wire wheel combo
Diagnostic scan-tool
Hoist
Torch setup

I'll need good heat for this winter. The vice and grinder/wire wheel will help produce more money, plus they're affordable. The scan tool I need to start looking into more as I've begun to need it more and more. A hoist would be very very nice, but I can be ok without one for now since I at least have a good jack and stands. Torch setup I haven't needed, but if I get all my other equipment out of the way I'll get one, unless I find one on CL for cheap.

As far as mounting the vice and grinder/wire wheel what do you guys recommend? I was thinking of making them portable, but the vice needs to be mounted solid. I figured maybe I would get stands and bolt them to the floor.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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Bumping this back up.

I've begun doing some insulating and am figuring out how I want to heat the garage. Ended up doing 1" foil-faced isostyrene secured to the bottom of my trusses with drywall screws and large fender washers. I foil-taped all the seams as well. On top of that in between the trusses I used R13 kraft faced insulation. On top of the trusses I've got OSB screwed to the trusses to create a walking area/storage space. The OSB doesn't completely fill the trusses, but will end up covering about 70% of the total space. The roof has ridge vent along with 3 soffit vents on each side of the garage, so there should be plenty of air flow to keep the roof happy. I know it's not the ideal R30 insulation setup, but I wanted to maintain my storage above the trusses. I figure the ~R20 I've got is way better than open trusses with nothing. Also, it's MUCH brighter in the garage now too since the foil-faced foam reflects a lot of the light back downwards. The last thing I've gotta figure out is if I want to do one of those access ladder setups or just use the ladder I already have in the garage. Most likely I'll just leave the walls for now and next year I'll take the OSB down one panel at a time and R13 it.

I'm thinking at this point I'm gonna just do electric heat. I've already got 220 with 40 amps to the garage. If I do NG I'll have to trench from the meter probably 100 feet. One of the cheapy Mr. Heater 50,000 BTU gas heaters is about 400 dollars, and they have some pretty glaringly bad reviews about them being very noisy, lots of vibrations, and motor failure. A Profusion 30,000 BTU electric heater is about 150 dollars. The electric one will take up much less space as well compared to the gas heater. If I'm not happy with the electric one I can always remove it and sell it and only be into the setup for about 200 bucks including heater and install.
 

theoldwizard1

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To be honest the small bottle of MAPP gas with an adjustable trigger torch end has worked for everything I've needed it to.

No such thing as MAPP any more. What comes in the yellow bottle now is MAPP Pro. Not much hotter than propane, but it costs more.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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No such thing as MAPP any more. What comes in the yellow bottle now is MAPP Pro. Not much hotter than propane, but it costs more.

Sorry for the non-clarification. Yes, MAPP Pro. Either way it's done everything I've needed as far as heat concerns have arisen.
 

matt_i

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Bumping this back up.

I'm thinking at this point I'm gonna just do electric heat. I've already got 220 with 40 amps to the garage. If I do NG I'll have to trench from the meter probably 100 feet. One of the cheapy Mr. Heater 50,000 BTU gas heaters is about 400 dollars, and they have some pretty glaringly bad reviews about them being very noisy, lots of vibrations, and motor failure. A Profusion 30,000 BTU electric heater is about 150 dollars. The electric one will take up much less space as well compared to the gas heater. If I'm not happy with the electric one I can always remove it and sell it and only be into the setup for about 200 bucks including heater and install.

Unless you live in the land of super cheap electricity via hydropower I recommend against the electric heat. Dependent on many factors, you can exceed the cost of the unit in energy useage 2 months' time....
 

brownbagg

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i got all the tools, and one tool i really need, is a chair

a cheap salvage store chair to sit my tired *** down
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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Unless you live in the land of super cheap electricity via hydropower I recommend against the electric heat. Dependent on many factors, you can exceed the cost of the unit in energy useage 2 months' time....

This unit will run only when I'm in the garage and even I'm in there I only plan to keep it around 50-60 degrees. I can't imagine the energy bill being that crazy. Like I said, I'm thinking of just trying it this winter. If it turns out to be too expensive I'll set the place up for NG next fall. I figure if I can get into a 30,000 BTU electric heater with wiring and everything for 200 bucks I'm not out much if it doesn't work. I know if I do gas heat it'll run me at least 1000 bucks between the labor to trench gas line, permit, heater, etc. That's quite a big difference and if the electric heater is enough I'd be kicking my own ***.

i got all the tools, and one tool i really need, is a chair

a cheap salvage store chair to sit my tired *** down

I can attest a good chair will do it!
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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Update - almost done with the insulation. 1" foil-faced isostyrene on the bottom of the trusses secured with drywall screws and fender washers, seams double-taped with aluminum tape, R13 kraft faced insulation on top of that, and 1/2" OSB on top of the trusses to create overhead walking area/storage space. To properly use the storage space I just added an aluminum attic ladder that's 25" wide. I was going to do the wooden one but a lot of people say the wooden ones are a bit rickety. ***** because the wood ones are like 80 bucks and the aluminum one was like 160. I've only got a bit left on the insulation and then I'm gonna start getting the heater setup going.

Also, I added another 3300 lumen LED light. I wired up another outlet in the ceiling so I could move the rear lights back further towards the front of the garage. In addition I wired up another outside security light as well. Should be well covered now in the lighting and security department.

Here's the plans:

Heat/insulation (nearly done)
Vice (HF setup on a stand bolted to the floor)
Grinder/wire wheel combo (HF/Northern setup on a stand bolted to floor)
Diagnostic scan-tool (leaning towards Autel or used Snap-On)
Hoist (low or mid-rise, maybe a Maxxjack)
Torch setup (pretty much a back burner item at this point)
 
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