What tool to get lube past flat zerk fitting?

[zakmartin]

What do you use to get lube or oil in a ball-on-spring lube point fitting that is flush with the surface of a tool, like you see on angle die grinders or the oil plug on old Craftsman V-series ratchet wrenches?

Also, what kind of lube do you use in your pneumatic angle die grinders? I'm assuming that since it runs at such high RPMs, you'd want to use something light like Liquid Wrench All-Purpose Lubricating oil. 3-in-1 seems a bit too thick for this kind of application, but that's just a guess. I tried pushing the ball bearing down with a pick and spraying oil in there through a straw with an aerosol can of Liquid Wrench, and oil just sprayed everywhere (it's tough to do this with a rag on top, since you can't see if the ball bearing is depressed enough for the oil to get in.)

Finally, how often do you lube the angle section on your angle die grinder air tool? I add a few drops of air tool oil at the air inlet every time I use my tools, but the extra lube point on my die grinder has me scratching my head.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

[firebox40dash5]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR6XE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I prefer the ones that thread on the hose directly rather than snap in, the snap in ones always leak on me. I discovered last time I bought one you can also disassemble some of the adapter types, and they have a 1/8 NPT female just like a zerk adapter.

 

[zakmartin]

Thanks! I just ordered it. I never even noticed that oil hole until the other day and I've owned the grinder for 2 years.

 

[theknurl]

zakmartin;
firebox40dash5 showed you the tool, use gear grease, check your owner's manual

me, I have a small grease gun with EP grease in it and thats what they get

 

[dgjaxun]

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-105-LBK1-Impact-Housing-Impacts/dp/B000E0TC82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381875769&sr=8-1&keywords=air+tool+grease+gun
this is the one i use

 

[Provincial]

Many machine tools use the flush ball check in places where oil is required. The ball check is only to keep dirt and metal chips out of the bearing surfaces. Most pump oil cans have a pointed tip that works well with these fittings. Press the tip hard against the ball, opening up a passage for the oil. The pointed tip bears against the outer edge of the ball seat opening and seals pretty well as you pump the oil in.

Check the manufacturers instructions for proper lubricant. Grease in something designed to run in oil can cause enough drag to show up as a loss of power. Sometimes the grease can all move away from the moving parts and result in loss of lubrication and premature wear.

 

[flying2275]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR6XE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I prefer the ones that thread on the hose directly rather than snap in, the snap in ones always leak on me. I discovered last time I bought one you can also disassemble some of the adapter types, and they have a 1/8 NPT female just like a zerk adapter.

There is also a 90 degree version of the same tool out there for tight clearance areas.

 

[srmofo]

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-105-LBK1-Impact-Housing-Impacts/dp/B000E0TC82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381875769&sr=8-1&keywords=air+tool+grease+gun
this is the one i use

Same here.

 

[e_d]

There is also this method.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...061012100410071008&eml=109647055&ruid=2002388

 

[zakmartin]

Check the manufacturers instructions for proper lubricant. Grease in something designed to run in oil can cause enough drag to show up as a loss of power. Sometimes the grease can all move away from the moving parts and result in loss of lubrication and premature wear.

I would, except it's just a cheapo-charlie Neiko angle die grinder and didn't say anything about lubricants on the package. I'm guessing that since I've never added lube at the flush ball check that the gears are pretty dry (I've been using this tool for about 2 years, only adding oil to the air inlet). I might try some 3-in-1 oil since it's a bit thicker and will likely stick to whatever gears are in there.

The tool's been good for what it cost (probably not much better than what's available at Harbor Freight) but lately it's been harder to get running (misses every 4 or 5 actuations). Last night I ordered an AirCat angle die grinder, since I've been moving to their tool line as my older air tools have been wearing out. I've been impressed with the AirCat cutting wheel and impact wrenches so I figured I'd give their angle die grinder a shot.

Thanks everyone for your help with this.

 

[zakmartin]

There is also this method.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...061012100410071008&eml=109647055&ruid=2002388

Wow! That looks exactly like what I need to add lube to the old Manitou SX forks on my old mountain bike (which I know takes a thicker lubricant than the 22,000 RPM die grinder). Thanks for the link!

 

[arms1970]

I use ingersol grease in all my air tools.

 

[6PTsocket]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR6XE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I prefer the ones that thread on the hose directly rather than snap in, the snap in ones always leak on me. I discovered last time I bought one you can also disassemble some of the adapter types, and they have a 1/8 NPT female just like a zerk adapter.

I went to the IR site and dug up the owners manual for one of their die grinders. They make several kits with the oil, grease and grease gun. The die grinder called for IR #67 grease, not the #105 in the kit you found. The greases are available separately or in one of those kits. Those kits are also for impact wrenches of different sizes.. The big wrenches probably need heavier stuff and none turn at the speed of a die grinder. The #67 is probably the lightest

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Fcvapor05]

Whatever you do, don't use lube out of a spray can to lubricate anything with high speed gears or bearings.. it has solvents in it. Use regular oil or grease.

 

[Rileysan]

Whatever you do, don't use lube out of a spray can to lubricate anything with high speed gears or bearings.. it has solvents in it. Use regular oil or grease.

This is a common misconception.

Solvents used in aerosol cans are only there to help a lubricant to penetrate into tight spaces then quickly evaporate - leaving only the lubricant behind. Unless you have concerns about fragile seals in older machines/tools, there's nothing to fear.

I'm not saying using grease in a spray can is the most effective way of doing things, just that it won't cause any harm.

Check the manufacturers instructions for proper lubricant. Grease in something designed to run in oil can cause enough drag to show up as a loss of power. Sometimes the grease can all move away from the moving parts and result in loss of lubrication and premature wear.

A lot of manufacturers will only list lubricants that are their brand. As such, try to get to the bottom line. What type of lubricant is needed for your application?

This guide from Amsoil is pretty helpful. I happen to use #1 grease in my 1/2" drive and bigger ratchets.

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/auto-and-light-truck/articles/a-closer-look-at-grease/

Grease Properties

Greases are classified into nine consistency grades (000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) established by the National Lubrication and Grease Institute (NLGI). NLGI #000 greases are nearly fluid, while NLGI #6 greases are nearly solid. The most commonly used grease is NLGI #2. Softer grades are often used for improved pumpability or low-temperature service, while harder grades are used where leakage or sealing are particular concerns.

The Cone Penetration Test (ASTM D217) measures grease consistency. Under prescribed conditions, a standardized cone is allowed to drop into the grease for five seconds, and the level of penetration (in tenths of a millimeter) is measured to determine its NLGI consistency number. The higher the penetration number, the lower the consistency number.

Brian

 

[Fcvapor05]

Solvents used in aerosol cans are only there to help a lubricant to penetrate into tight spaces then quickly evaporate - leaving only the lubricant behind. Unless you have concerns about fragile seals in older machines/tools, there's nothing to fear.

I have no problem with lubricants applied via solvent mix from an aerosol can- my shop shelves are chock full of them in various types.

Problem is, that solvent doesn't evaporate when you spray it into an enclosed, sealed space- which describes the gearbox of most any tool which has one. It has nowhere to go- it stays in that cavity, and prevents the oil from working the way it should.

Obviously no one is going to die if OP sprays liquid wrench into the gearbox of a few air tools...

but the whole point of this board is, in my estimation, to learn the right way to do things.

 

[Rileysan]

I have no problem with lubricants applied via solvent mix from an aerosol can- my shop shelves are chock full of them in various types.

Problem is, that solvent doesn't evaporate when you spray it into an enclosed, sealed space- which describes the gearbox of most any tool which has one. It has nowhere to go- it stays in that cavity, and prevents the oil from working the way it should.

Obviously no one is going to die if OP sprays liquid wrench into the gearbox of a few air tools...

but the whole point of this board is, in my estimation, to learn the right way to do things.

This is silly. How does one spray lube from an aerosol can into a closed gearbox or through a spring loaded grease fitting? If there's an opening (like a drain plug), the solvent will evaporate in seconds. If there's a spring loaded ball (like on a vintage ratchet or air tools) you can't possibly force lubricant from an aerosol can through that fitting.

Brian

 

[Fcvapor05]

This is silly. How does one spray lube from an aerosol can into a closed gearbox or through a spring loaded grease fitting? If there's an opening (like a drain plug), the solvent will evaporate in seconds. If there's a spring loaded ball (like on a vintage ratchet or air tools) you can't possibly force lubricant from an aerosol can through that fitting.

Brian

Uh... go read the first post in the thread.

OP tried this using a pick to press the ball down, and the straw on a Liquid Wrench can to get lube past the ball. It probably worked, or could work in theory.

Which is why I mentioned not spraying solvents into enclosed spaces in the first place.

 

[w.hansen]

What tool to grease this zero can't get a needle to work
Front drive shaft ram 2500 2015

 

[rlitman]

What tool to grease this zero can't get a needle to work
Front drive shaft ram 2500 2015

The problem with the cone tipped grease needles, is that they need to hit the flush grease ****** straight on, or they won't seal. What drive shaft only gives you off-axis access.

The other day, I was browsing google for just such an item, and came upon a grease needle with a slightly bulbous tip that I think was designed to seal a little while off-axis too (like the way a ball tip allen key works). But I subsequently lost that link, and would really like to find it again. If anyone here knows of a better type of grease needle, I'd love to know.

They also make a rubber tipped grease needle, but I'm not thinking it would fit in there.

Another option would be a bent tip needle adapter.