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Looking for budget pipe notcher recommendation

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Chateau Slate 66

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I have a bunch of 1.5 inch ID schedule 40 aluminum pipe that I need to put a 90 degree notch on each end. I'm looking for suggestions for a pipe notcher. Of course, I would like to spend as little as possible because the tool will not get a lot of use after this project, but I also don't want to waste money on cheap junk that I will curse during the whole project.

Suggestions?
 
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yaidunno

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If this is the one and only pipe you will ever need to notch, your $50-100 will be much better off having a local machine shop getting the tube notched for you.

The tool you seek requires rigidity and precision. Neither of which come cheap.
 
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Farrier

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Buy an cheap abrasive metal cutting chop saw and use it to cut your saddles. Plenty of videos online showing how to make chop saw pipe saddles.
 
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Chateau Slate 66

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yaidunno said:
If this is the one and only pipe you will ever need to notch, your $50-100 will be much better off having a local machine shop getting the tube notched for you.

The tool you seek requires rigidity and precision. Neither of which come cheap.
Click to expand...

Certainly not the "one and only". I have about 80 cuts to make. I just won't use it too much after this project.
 
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RivennHewn

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The only thing that comes standard with the HF version is frustration.

Look elsewhere
 
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MarkG

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So you want 'cheap', but NOT 'cheap junk'-------I see a problem here. Just like everyone else with 'champagne taste on a beer budget'! :S
 
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yaidunno

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Chateau Slate 66 said:
Certainly not the "one and only". I have about 80 cuts to make. I just won't use it too much after this project.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. For some reason I was picturing a single piece being notched, not 80. Having your own tool certainly seems reasonable. Perhaps have a look at these two? I would think they should be sufficient . Get yourself some Starret hole saws and don't look back.

http://www.trick-tools.com/Pro_Tools_Industrial_Hole_Saw_Tube_Notcher_HSN_501i_4667

http://www.medfordtools.com/notchmaster.html
 
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astroracer

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I've been using the piece of **** HF notcher for about 20 years.... No issues... It has to be mounted rigidly and using a good bi-metal hole saw, Milwaukee, Lennox, Starrett, etc. is really the key to getting good notches. As long as the tool is mounted correctly and you don't overpower the hole saws, it works just fine. Whether in 1" dia. thin wall or 2" dia. 1/4" wall. it works.
Mine has done 100's of notches and is still going strong.
MVC001F-vi.jpg


MVC007F-vi.jpg

Just sayin'...
Mark
 
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Chateau Slate 66

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Chateau Slate 66 said:
I have a bunch of 1.5 inch ID schedule 40 aluminum pipe that I need to put a 90 degree notch on each end. I'm looking for suggestions for a pipe notcher. Of course, I would like to spend as little as possible because the tool will not get a lot of use after this project, but I also don't want to waste money on cheap junk that I will curse during the whole project.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...

MarkG said:
So you want 'cheap', but NOT 'cheap junk'-------I see a problem here. Just like everyone else with 'champagne taste on a beer budget'! :S
Click to expand...

I don't see where I said I wanted "cheap". :dunno:

Of course I would like to spend as little as possible, but I specifically said I DIDN'T want cheap junk. I was looking for recommendations on a notcher that works well without breaking the bank. If that means a $500 tool that actually works, so be it.
 
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Chateau Slate 66

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astroracer said:
I've been using the piece of **** HF notcher for about 20 years.... No issues... It has to be mounted rigidly and using a good hole saw, Milwaukee, Lennox, Starrett, etc. is really the key to getting good notches. As long as the tool is mounted correctly and you don't overpower the hole saws, it works just fine. Whether in 1" dia. thin wall or 2" dia. 1/4" wall. it works.
Mine has done 100's of notches and is still going strong.

Just sayin'...
Mark
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input! I'm looking for exactly this... real world experience with notchers at different price levels. Thanks again.
 
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RivennHewn

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astroracer said:
I've been using the piece of **** HF notcher for about 20 years.... No issues... It has to be mounted rigidly and using a good bi-metal hole saw, Milwaukee, Lennox, Starrett, etc. is really the key to getting good notches. As long as the tool is mounted correctly and you don't overpower the hole saws, it works just fine. Whether in 1" dia. thin wall or 2" dia. 1/4" wall. it works.
Mine has done 100's of notches and is still going strong.
MVC001F-vi.jpg


MVC007F-vi.jpg

Just sayin'...
Mark
Click to expand...


Every once in a while I take a dump, and it looks like art.

Doesn’t mean everybody’s dump will end up in a museum.

Consider yourself lucky
 
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astroracer

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theoldwizard1 said:
Why NOT to buy a HF pipe notcher !
Click to expand...

Not really... Reasons?:

1). The notcher is not secured well. Flopping around as it was is putting a lot of unneeded stress on the whole notcher.

2). I never cut through the "whole" tube... That's just stupid and a waste of material. You are making a "notch", cutting just the end is the correct way to use the tool.

3). He is using the tube vise upside down... The strap goes UNDER the tube to be clamped. look at my pics. That's how it's intended to be used.

This video is worthless and proves nothing but the guy doesn't know what he's doing...:lol_hitti
Mark
 
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dr_clyde

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My favorite notcher is my Cincinnati horizontal mill. But I realize that's not what you want.

Shop I worked at for a while used abrasive belt notchers, they are the best for repeated work that needs to be consistent. If you don't want to spend that, I understand. Probably not the best for aluminum anyway.

We also had a JD2 notchmaster hole saw notcher. It worked ok. Most of the issues I had with it were where I needed a compound notch, which is not uncommon in custom roll cage fab. If you just want simple 90° notches, it should work fine. Get good hole saws, and use the right speeds and feeds. I like the Milwaukee Hole Dozer saws, and the Starrett hole saws are nice as well.
 
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sqznby

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I wish I had a mill, haha.
I love my Notch Master by JD Squared. Swag Off-road has some great accessories for it that make it even more capable.
 
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gordo9742000

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Got a harbor freight notcher and it works well for the amount I used it. Had it about ten years and built three roll cages with it. Probably wouldnt get it to use in a full production shop but for the amount I use it it's perfect. Just my opinion.
 
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theoldwizard1

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joe49 said:
You would think that Chucke2009, would figure out he should read the directions and understand them, before f...ing things up on video.
Click to expand...

When it comes to non-welding things, Chucke2009 is far from "the sharpest tool in the shed".

If you think he was a bad example of that video, the last one he did, he replaced the front bearings on an old Ford tractor. Standard double tapered roller bearing. Instead of packing the bearings, he drilled, tapped and insert a Zerk fitting in the hub and pumped, what must have been a **** ton, load of grease in there. Maybe some of it will get to the rollers. Maybe.
 
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bullnerd

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I know a guy that added a pneumatic cylinder to his lowbuck, it rips on steel tube.

I still have a lowbuck catalog from the 80s.

Don't know if that thing will do Sch 40 Alu?

Based comments over the years, Id say the Baleigh then the JMR then the JD squared for hole saw notchers, in that order.

Are these being welded?

Abrasive blade mentioned going to work on Alu ?
 
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dontlifttoshift

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If I were doing that job and only doing 90* notches, I would want one of these.


I don't think you can do it any faster than that and punching aluminum should be a breeze.
 
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bullnerd

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Horizontal band saw would be slow and repeatability would be a pain without a fixture.

Sch 40 is what ? .150 wall? Those thin wall punch notchers might not take enough of a cut if the punch doesn't fit in far enough.

The other question I meant to ask , is how long are the parts? That might change the process.
 
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joe49

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gayler said:
Chucke2009 reviewed one and broke it the first cut. He then repaired it to make it work well.
Click to expand...

Yes he did because he tried to remove the hole saw by tightening it. Also he did 2 videos and even in the second one after comments about having the clamp upside down he still used it wrong. Finally generally if not using a drill press with it you use it horizontally so you have a feel for the cutting, That's the reason for the swivel base, and bolting it down would of helped. Quality HF's notcher is not, but Chucke2009s bumbling makes it look even worse.
 
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Strouty

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theoldwizard1 said:
When it comes to non-welding things, Chucke2009 is far from "the sharpest tool in the shed".

If you think he was a bad example of that video, the last one he did, he replaced the front bearings on an old Ford tractor. Standard double tapered roller bearing. Instead of packing the bearings, he drilled, tapped and insert a Zerk fitting in the hub and pumped, what must have been a **** ton, load of grease in there. Maybe some of it will get to the rollers. Maybe.
Click to expand...

I think you are being nice, the guy seems really friendly, really fun, like your loyal dog would be, but he is an idiot.
 
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Chateau Slate 66

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bullnerd said:
Horizontal band saw would be slow and repeatability would be a pain without a fixture.

Sch 40 is what ? .150 wall? Those thin wall punch notchers might not take enough of a cut if the punch doesn't fit in far enough.

The other question I meant to ask , is how long are the parts? That might change the process.
Click to expand...

.145 wall and 5' long and notched on both ends.
 
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bullnerd

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Chateau Slate 66 said:
.145 wall and 5' long and notched on both ends.
Click to expand...

Right, so you have to clock them right?

Makes it a little trickier than just hacking away.

Do you know what a POB level is when bending tube?

Basically you have to clamp a level to the tube so you can re-clock it in whatever is cutting the notch.
 
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