Thanks Scott for correcting me about the shingle quality. I was judging based on comparison to the architectural shingles on some of the houses on the route where I deliver but they are $500k up to at least 1 million. By day I'm a USPS mail carrier. These shingles look better than the old 3 tab but still pretty thin so I assumed they were a lower end product. I didn't see any ** years warranty on the bundles or on their website.
Also, thanks for confirming the cracked shingles need to be replaced. There are 2-3 unopened bundles on the pallet in my drive. If they don't fix it I think I can carefully pry the nails out and replace without tearing it all off. I would put some roof tar in/over the cracks and wait until Spring or Summer when it'll be pliable and easier to work with. I'll give them more time and a chance to do the right thing but so far, I'm not impressed with his crew especially after he told me "they do great work".
He based his price totally off the insurance claim numbers only deducting for a few things that I'm doing myself or already fixed. That is why I am holding him to replacing the rusted chimney flashing and fixing the improperly layered shingle/flashing on one corner where water WILL get under the shingles and/or into the attic space. Maybe I shouldn't have shared that information but he also helped decipher it for me.
I will try to upload some pictures to Google Drive but I have never had luck inserting them into threads on other message boards. I have three separate issues.
First is they are to be paid $450 to replace the chimney flashing but didn't touch the upper, outer flashing that looks to be only glued to the chimney with 17-20+ year old silicone and is totally rusted through in a few spots. I had previously sealed those spots but you can still clearly see rust through the caulk and I exposed two of the worst spots where you can see it is rusted through.
Second, and most dire repair needed is in the valley near the chimney where the garage roof meets the main roof (90 degree angle between the two). Everything looks great until you gently lift the lowest shingle up against the chimney where the main roof shingles continue down into the valley. The last piece of step flashing was cut at a 45 degree angle to hide it. That piece of flashing sits on top of the garage roof shingles and water can run down the garage roof, under that flashing piece and into a hole at the chimney corner. He said he'll install a "ridgelet" along with replacing the rusted flashing.
Third issue is 14, cracked ridge cap shingles. Some are barely cracked (top layer) but a few have holes large enough that I can start to fit my finger into them.
I can fix all these issues myself if necessary. I've been documenting everything and keeping screenshots of the text communications to protect myself if need be. After reading some more I'm hoping I don't have any issues with the shingle tar strip adhering. Today there were 30 mph winds that directly hit the back of my garage. The other roof faces should be fine unless a storm comes in from an unusual direction. One good thing going for me is I chose a darker color so it should heat up plus I helped them lay flat where they were butted almost too tightly against each other.
No chance of over driven nails causing a leak-inducing divot and there is much less chance of high-nailing because you aim (land) the nail