Low budget 30x48 build

[PWC Repair]

Picked up my metal Sunday. Guys came out yesterday and got a little bit done. I cut a deal with a local builder after i fixed a pair of older skis for him. If everything rolls smoothly we'll have a frame up shortly.

 

[PWC Repair]

A couple pics of progress from today. Truss legs were notched to sit on the rear wall.

 

[PWC Repair]

The guys almost finished framing today. Hopefully see this thing wearing sheet metal by end of next week.

 

[Riverside]

Looking good!

 

[PWC Repair]

Almost in the dry! Need to pick up the short dark colored pieces for the whole bottom and put up 2 more front wall panels.After that i can try to hang some doors.

 

[PWC Repair]

Picked up a couple steel doors from Facebook. With jambs and all hardware and both keyed the same.........$60.

 

[PWC Repair]

Got most of the dark color metal put on, just about done with the outside for now.

 

[PWC Repair]

Got a whole trailer load of 3" thick closed cell foam board and started insulating this weekend.

 

[PWC Repair]

Took today off cause it was unusually nice weather. Hung my first overhead door ever........took me all day because there are steel truss legs in the way. After taking the tracks back down and swapping brackets left to right i was able to gain enough clearance to line everything up correctly. Wound up the spring and for good balance and managed not to hurt myself. Also finished shimming the walk through door. Hung one of my canopy leds so i can work on it at night.. and i've got seven more, should be plenty of light.

 

[PWC Repair]

I got my other garage door up and finished up that one piece of metal on the front corner. It's officially in the dry now. Time to finish insulating.

 

[PWC Repair]

My wife helped me cut and hang some more foam insulation tonight.. East gable wall about done.

 

[paredown]

Looks great!

As I tell my wife, "Good work takes time!" The combo of some salvage lumber, the bargain trusses and doors should make a big difference in the final outlay. I guess you had to buy the galvanized at retail?

When we did my dad's shop we scavenged a trailer load of used polyiso where they were tearing down a huge produce distribution center--it came out of the walk-in coolers...

Probably about 1/3 of the material in our house reno came off Craigslist--just put in an unaffordable (to me) Pella patio door on a wall section that needed redoing. Cost me ~$200 and a tank of gas for a $2500 door.

 

[PWC Repair]

Thanks. Yes, bought the metal new on sale at Menards. Id rather be patient and get my moneys worth....new or used. Its taken me a long time but I dont co-own this with the bank. Its paid for and all mine.

 

[PWC Repair]

Put in a hard weekend of cut-and-cobble with the 3" foam board and everything is done now except the roof.

 

[Riverside]

It appears that you are installing the same thickness insulation in the roof as you have in the walls. Have you considered doubling the insulation in the roof? That's were most of the heat wants to pass through. (I installed 12" of fiberglass in my roof and I am very pleased with the results.)

 

[PWC Repair]

I was thinking if I find I need more I'll come back with another 1 or 2 inch foam nailed under the rest right up to the bottom of the purlins.

 

[PWC Repair]

Got 2 more hours in this evening on the roof insulation.

 

[Riverside]

This is probably too late to be helpful, but that ~3" of air space above your insulation would be a great location for a reflective layer. (Stop the heat intrusion before it even gets to the insulation.) For a very small additional cost I think you would get a noticeable benefit. If you still have any panels left, you might consider spray glue and aluminum foil, shiny side up.

 

[PWC Repair]

I had thought about that. But for the overall cost up front vs payback vs air gap only, I just decided it would not be worth it since its just a shop. If I were doing this in my house it might be a different story.

 

[PWC Repair]

Made it down to the end and started coming back across with 2 more rows tonight.

 

[ctfortner]

Good looking building! I am starting my build soon and they are using the 3" vinyl back insulation on mine. It will go on the roof and sides before the metal and hopefully be pretty air tight.

I am curious why you decided to insulate after vs. during?

 

[billspit]

I just came across this thread. I tip my hat to you for doing this pay as you go.

 

[PWC Repair]

Good looking building! I am starting my build soon and they are using the 3" vinyl back insulation on mine. It will go on the roof and sides before the metal and hopefully be pretty air tight.

I am curious why you decided to insulate after vs. during?

I just wanted the best r value for my money. Thought i would have it spray foamed then found out how much that cost. Bought the foam off craigslist for less than r13 fiberglass.

I just came across this thread. I tip my hat to you for doing this pay as you go.

I actually needed a shop years ago but could never afford it. I finally decided if i just go ahead and start a little at a time it might actually get done

Worked on insulation about 8 hours today. Up and down on the lift more times than i can count. Hope to finish that up tomorrow and hang and wire my lights.

 

[PWC Repair]

Another long weekend up and down, on and off the lift, and finally Im done insulating.

Up next.....lights and electrical.

 

[DynoDave]

Nice job with the insulation. Should pay off nicely.

There are people in Michigan on Craigslist that sell that. Very tempting, as I have not insulated mine yet.

Now that you've worked with it, and around it, are you still happy with your choice?

 

[PWC Repair]

Nice job with the insulation. Should pay off nicely.

There are people in Michigan on Craigslist that sell that. Very tempting, as I have not insulated mine yet.

Now that you've worked with it, and around it, are you still happy with your choice?

Yes, way better than itching. No heat in the shop yet and weve had some pretty cold nights. So far staying about 50 inside. All together i used around 25 cans of cheap walmart spray foam. Tips from my experience. Wear nitrile gloves! Dont use the large gaps, triple expanding stuff. It doesnt go as far and it expands so guickly it oozes out everywhere. It also has a tendency to fall off vertical surfaces. A standard carpenters pencil marks on it just fine. A sawzall with course blade cuts through it quickly. Most of my pieces had one square edge to start with. After cutting grab a piece of the cut off foam and rub the cut edge. It helps smooth the surface which keeps the spray foam on. If you have any crazy high spots where the sawzall wandered a rough edge red brick used in a cheese grater motion knocks it right down. Cut all pieces a bit shy of your measurements. Snug is good but too tight means time wasted trimming. A bit loose is ok, you can cut out a bunch of 1/4" thick by 2" long wedges out of the scrap foam. Then after applying the spray foam push it into place with a wedge. It holds it snug until the spray foam sets up. Even worked just fine on my overhead panels. If you go in between purlins and girts you can still easily sheet the inside. I also kept a little jab saw on the lift so i could easily trim if necessary without coming back down. Finally there is no itching but it makes a dusty mess. Best cut outside if possible, we scooped up a 5 gallon bucket full of powdery foam dust.

 

[glen66]

Nice job! Looks very good and you are going to be oh so happy its insulated. Took me almost a year to insulate the same way on the same sized building.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Great thread. Thanks for sharing.

Looking at all this foam board I kept thinking - How is he holding it up there? You answered it in the last post = Spray foam. Interesting method. Is that standard practice?

 

[PWC Repair]

Great thread. Thanks for sharing.

Looking at all this foam board I kept thinking - How is he holding it up there? You answered it in the last post = Spray foam. Interesting method. Is that standard practice?

Apparently it is. When i started searching i came across youtube vids. They refer to this as cut-n-cobble foam method. I had one piece that slid out about 1/2way on the roof that i didnt notice. By the time i made my way back over to fix it the foam was half cured. I had to really pull and beat and shimmy to get that sucker back out to reset it.

 

[tpndrcn1]

Your insulation looks great, I saw some polyiso on craigslist as well and wondered if it would make a good alternative to spray foam,but this kind of answers that question.

 

[PWC Repair]

It was a lot of (easy) labor but I just couldn't shell out $6k for sprayed on.

 

[PWC Repair]

Got the 8 canopy lights hung and wired, pics show half of them on. Im happy with the amount of light. Also started wiring outlets down the back wall and started building workbenches from old countertops i got for free. Also got a couple 2ft wide cabinets with drawers for free and will be turning them into a drilling station, and a grinding station.

 

[PWC Repair]

26 degrees outside and its 41 inside my shop. Concrete floor measures 44. Seems pretty well sealed.

 

[Whitey1]

Awesome build!

 

[PWC Repair]

Got some time to do a bit more this weekend. Got my benches mostly finished, just need to attach the tops. Also got a good bit done on my rack o' shelves. 15 ft long and 2 ft deep for multiple totes. Command center in the middle for stereo,dvd,and flat screen. Took a bit of planning but i think it will turn out fine.

 

[PWC Repair]

Just about finished with my rack o' shelves. They will easily hold 28 totes. Those are 17 gallon in there but i spaced so that the 27 gallon ones will fit too. Also getting the workbench tops fastened down.

 

[Riverside]

Great looking work space! Do you have any plans to cover the insulation? I'm wondering if flammability is an issue.

 

[PWC Repair]

The closed cell and polyiso foam do not easily burn, and dont easily ignite either. In fact you can hold a torch to it for a while and when you remove the flame the foam does NOT stay lit or keep smoldering. It completely extinguishes. Allthough it does make some nasty black smoke while the flame is applied. Some areas will end up covered with peg board, other areas with metal.

 

[PWC Repair]

Been starting to move stuff in. Still don't have my permanent power run in yet. On a side note I think the 3" foam board will work out great. Night before last it was 17 degrees. Then yesterdays high was 30. Then last night was 15 and todays high is only 31. Last night at 7:30 it was 17 outside and 38 in my shop. Still holding very well I think considering no heat source whatsoever yet. I lit up my little radiant kerosene heater and within about 45 minutes it brought the temp up in the shop 4 degrees! I think that's amazing considering the huge open space and 17.5ft tall at the peak. Probably need a couple ceiling fans to stir the heat that was inevitably up near the roof.

 

[arkieguide]

Actually common here is 2x4 and 16 or 24" o.c. So I can go either way for about the same money.
I am in Arkansas and my shop is 2x4 walls and truss roof.

Not "Formula" but I have a 1982 Mecham Racing Motor Sports Edition Trans AM with the motor out right now 70,000 original miles, 1 of 9 that are red.

And the first project in the new shop will be my 1983 25th anniversary Daytona 500 Trans Am hardtop 1 of 116 built that we will restore for my son. first 2 pics in hardtop section bottom of page here...http://www.transamaction.de/pace-cars-english.html


No doubt, the word of mouth has spread about my wrenching and I have outgrown the little project shed.


Hey bro! I find it's a good way to make extra ca$h and nobody around here wants to do watercraft or performance trans builds. I feel like I'm pretty close to going full time on my own.

I am in Arkansas and my shop hus stick built with 2x4 studs and 2x4 truss roof - ceiling. I had a pole barn before and I like this the best. Yes walls are 24" on center, no problem.