Raising a garage

[Farmall450]

I mentioned in another thread that every time I see a post like this I am going to call out the poster.

Sparky did not get Lucky, he did some research and got on with the task at hand. The only issue he had in the whole process was with the supposed Professionals he tried to hire to do the concrete for him.

Now why don't you get back under your bridge and keep telling the kids to get off your lawn and let the rest of us get back to actually doing stuff

^^^ This. That was one hell of a raise/build on his behalf.

 

[johnnyradiant]

Cut out the middle bay. Save trusses. Build new middle bay 4' higher. Put the old middle bay trusses on top of your new middle bay. You could add a clerestory window or three up above on your now higher walls. The windows won't interfere with any storage or make the building any less secure and you'll get some extra natural light inside. Much easier said than done but it is another option if you just need one tall bay. Raising that is not big deal if done with wisdom. My dad was a builder and moved and raised a couple larger homes to put full basements under them. My buddy did one a 2-1/2 years ago with the people still living in the house while they raised it and did the new basement. A house is far more complex than a basic box with pretty much the same weight throughout the structure unlike some houses that may have one or two areas substantially heavier than other areas, not to mention building inspectors in the heart of a large city are generally far more uptight than in the more rural locals where a lot can be 12 acres instead 3600 sq ft.

 

[Mikeske]

I like johnnyradiants idea of raising the center bay but maybe you can build in a turret to resemble the turret on the house. Yeah I know but it sure would really match the house. That way you can use the area under the turret to put your lift in.

 

[GMCGarage]

Bad idea, the IBC does not allow using sheeting for tension.

I dont think alot of things done on here meet code that much.

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Thanks a lot guys. A lot of things to think about. Looking at a lot of others that have tackled this, I don't think raising the roof vs. raising the whole structure would be that much different work wise in the end. If anything, it just seems easier for a DIYer. I may be wrong... I like the idea of having new 2x4 or 2x6 wall studs instead of a cripple wall. Block is out. I just don't like block cripple walls.
Although raising just the center section and creating a turret etc would be pretty cool and aesthetically perfect for the house, it's just outside my scope/will. I don't want to mess with the shingling either.
Something else to think about... If I raise the roof vs. the whole structure, I don't have to mess with the garage doors.

 

[bczygan]

Architecturally, the garage doesn't go with the house at all, so whatever you do with it, won't matter.

That said, your least expensive option is to rework the roof framing inside one bay, without changing the outside at all. Wouldn't even need permits.

There are threads on here that show how to do it, but basically you create a girder truss on either side of the chosen bay and span between them with perlins.

Bill

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Architecturally, the garage doesn't go with the house at all, so whatever you do with it, won't matter.

That said, your least expensive option is to rework the roof framing inside one bay, without changing the outside at all. Wouldn't even need permits.

There are threads on here that show how to do it, but basically you create a girder truss on either side of the chosen bay and span between them with perlins.

Bill

Architecturally you're right, but it could be a lot worse which is what I'm also trying to avoid.
I'm leaning more towards what you said about re-framing one bay worth of trusses. I've done it before, but I wasn't sure if on this project I wanted to.

 

[ard]

If you do raise it, I'd wrap the lower part with brick to match the house. Anything you can do to tie it in will add value. IMO

Also, we see a lot of "what should I put on my walls?" You can consider wood as an interior sheating as a component of the structural changes... Althougn sheating isn't a way to strengthen a hinge point as it is only 1/2" (or whatever)

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

Yes, the brick would be a good idea to sheath it for aesthetics. I'm really still feeling the roof lift vs the whole garage lift though. Especially once I started thinking about the doors. Either that or live with a 10' bay by modifying the trusses for that one bay.
Like I said, it's a working garage lol... It never ends. It's a blessing and a curse having cars for a hobby.
I always laugh when I see this picture I took and think, "This is how real men celebrate diversity" lol.

66 Ford Mustang Fastback, 69 Olds Cutlass & 69 Chevy Camaro SS396.

 

[lakeroadster]

That would be a great building, as is, for just storing your completed vehicles. And then build another shop for the "dirty work".

Why? Have you checked the concrete thickness of the existing garage. Any idea how the sub-grade was done or if the concrete has any reinforcing steel in it?

If the concrete ends up being inadequate for the lift you are wanting and you end up having to cut out the concrete and re-pour for the lift... and also raise the roof... you'd be money ahead by adding the high bay to the end, or rear, of the building.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Just thinking –

• If you opt to raise the whole building or the roof (or section of roof) I would want to be able to have a car on the lift with the garage door open. At a minimum you will need different garage door tracks in the bay(s) with the lift(s).

• If you raise the whole building or the whole roof and change the garage door tracks you could have 4 post storage lifts in 2 of the bays giving you the capability of storing 6 cars.

• If you raise the whole building, change the garage tracks and drop the existing garage doors down, you could fill the void above the garage doors with windows.

 

[wssix99]

Architecturally you're right, but it could be a lot worse which is what I'm also trying to avoid.
I'm leaning more towards what you said about re-framing one bay worth of trusses. I've done it before, but I wasn't sure if on this project I wanted to.

This would allow you to keep the roof lower. (Doing a tear-off and replace vs. a raise.) Keeping the roof down and changing the structure so you can lift cars higher will keep the garage less architecturally impactful.

 

[CraigStu]

I like the idea of raising the roof on the center bay. I would check w/ truss manufacturers to see what is possible. One thought I had when I saw the picture of your house is I wonder if there would be a way to make that center roof line a real high pitch. Obviously it's not the same as the round turret on the house but it could tie the two structures visually at least a little.

 

[cowboy73]

I would raise the roof. Tear the shingles and decking off of the roof. With controlled, careful demolition you could reuse the roof trusses. You could probably reuse some of the decking to sheath the taller walls. A brick fascade would help tie the garage into the look of the house. A couple of octagon cupolas on the roof of the garage would also help. Those fake carriage door hinges that mount on garage doors would also make it look like it belonged.

 

[lakeroadster]

Keeping the roof down and changing the structure so you can lift cars higher will keep the garage less architecturally impactful.

I would think that would be the most cost effective approach too. A high bay with custom free span 2 ply trusses on each end of the raised section, with purlins spanning across the high bay.

This gives you more overhead space than scissor trusses and is easier than a ridge beam. It also means the raised section doesn't need to be all that much higher to enable a full height lift.

Your garage door would follow the contour of the roof purlins.

Raise either end of the building... or in the center as photochopped below.

Again, assuming that your investigation into the slab reveals it to be up to the task of supporting a lift.

But with 12 acres at your disposal... leave the existing building alone and big a pole barn for your working shop.

Is the barn at the rear of the property yours, or a neighbors?

 

[Falcon67]

That looks nice and I see the tie in with the house and barn. Also, not a big deal to do. Leaves the rest of the building easier to heat and cool.

 

[WNYflyer]

Raising the center bay disrupts the roof diaphragm that currently spans as a beam from side wall to side wall.

 

[lakeroadster]

Raising the center bay disrupts the roof diaphragm that currently spans as a beam from side wall to side wall.

Sure does..

However since the 70's houses have been built by the millions with these same kind of roof structures.

Just have to get an engineer involved. They will specify what type of bracing is needed.

 

[Falcon67]

Maybe I'm not a structural engineer but seems to me a roof is not necessarily a unit structure. I could cut my building in half with a chain saw and nothing would happen. Seems to me each pair of rafters or trusses will carry their respective loads with the roof deck preventing racking.

 

[SgtHawkUSMC]

I appreciate all the thoughts. That photochop looked great. My plan is to build an attached garage at some point, so I'm not particularly concerned about tying the garage to the house right now. I think I've pretty much settled on raising the ceiling in the center bay as high as I can. Chris (Falcon67) is right. You could take a chainsaw and make three individual garages and one would be as sturdy as the rest IMO.
The barn is mine. I go about 400 yds back from the garage. The barn is just a horse barn though and I don't want to convert it.
If money weren't an object, without question, I'd have the current garage turned 90 degrees and pushed back about 50' to the right. In it's place would be another three car attached garage. with the lift in the third bay. That will happen in the not too distant future if we decide we want to stay where we are.
I found a lift from Bendpak that will do what I need. The new Grand Prix series they have has a model that will fit well under a 10' ceiling. This means that raising the center rafters 2' will do the trick. If I need to lower the garage door, I can live with that. The nice thing about doing it this way is the heating and cooling cost savings.

 

[WNYflyer]

Maybe I'm not a structural engineer but seems to me a roof is not necessarily a unit structure. I could cut my building in half with a chain saw and nothing would happen. Seems to me each pair of rafters or trusses will carry their respective loads with the roof deck preventing racking.

Your are correct sir. A box with three solid sides and one open side and a solid top will be stable. Unfortunately with the wind direction towards the overhead doors/front of the garage the wall with all the overhead door openings will provide suspect stability to resist the twisting/racking. Not much shear wall length on that wall.

For the current structure, in reality when the wind direction is towards the side wall the building it is most likely already acting as you described. It looks like the garage essentially has 2 solid side walls, solid rear wall, one essentially one open front wall and a solid top. The 3 solid walls would be much stiffer that the minimal front wall, thus essentially your minimum 3 sides and a solid top so you have stability for wind hitting the side walls.

 

[firebirdparts]

I dont think alot of things done on here meet code that much.

Nevertheless, it was dumb to suggest that sheeting could somehow beef up a hinged wall. It doesn't pass a reasonableness test.

 

[wssix99]

Raise either end of the building... or in the center as photochopped below.

I kinda like that look, with the high center roof. But... with the Victorian next door, would a cupola and weathervane be too much?.