Best interior wall surface for a shop and thickness?

[Wind_River]

Hello,

This is my first post and question to the group. I'm sure it's probably out there and I have tried to search this forum but just finding bits and pieces. I have a red iron metal building 80x42 with 16' walls, 4/12 pitch. 50x42 is the shop and 30x42 will be full living quarters. My question is now for the shop and what's the best material for the interior wall I want to put up to eight feet? I've had 3" open cell foam already sprayed in and 4" in the ceiling. I'm looking to put up walls to 8' and maybe later finish out the rest of the walls and ceilings with liner panels. Is OSB, Plywood, or any other material best? I'm using it mostly for storage but will have a work bench in one corner that will be an elbow or along the back two walls. I intend to hang stuff up in the work bench area and also along other portions of the walls but nothing heavy. I want to have the option of hanging something heavy in the work bench area if needed or nearby. I've had a person put 2x4 studs (facing) at every 24" inches around the entire 50x42 shop up to eight feet for additional strength and for something to nail to. Also, what is the best thickness of material once I choose? 1/2" or 3/4"? A friend said 1/2" would be enough but I thought about maybe 3/4" in the work bench area in case of a need to hang heavy stuff. If you have 1/2" walls and studs every 24" would 1/2" be enough? I don't know how to attach pics or I would. It asks for a URL when I try to insert an image. Thanks for any input or advice.

 

[lakeroadster]

Welcome to The Garage Journal...

First question is what will you be doing in the shop?

Any welding or hot work? If so then steel is your best choice for a wall covering.

If not then your plan of 1/2" OSB will work fine.

I prefer LP Smart Side 4' x 8' Panels. It's a tongue and groove product that looks nicer than OSB simply because it has a wood grain surface and it is a tongue & groove product so the seams all disappear. It also is pre-painted, leave it as is or paint to suit. OSB soaks up paint like a sponge.

Photo below was our previous shop. It uses LP SmartSide panels. What you see is just the panels nailed to the studs. Nothing was painted after the fact.

Good luck and again, Welcome.

 

[TheShrine]

Here we go!

 

[Wind_River]

Hey lakeroadster, thanks I'll check them out. What is the thickness of them and it appears you can put weight on them?

 

[MattT]

I'd go 3/4" ply over the bench. I only used 1/2" and it's marginal for hanging stuff off nails.

 

[Wind_River]

Thanks Shrine, I'll check it out.

 

[Wind_River]

Lakeroadster, it will not be for welding. Mostly storage, some cleaning of truck and boat, and moderate work on the work bench. I intend to get large shelves against the walls to store items.

 

[Wind_River]

MattT. That's what I was thinking. Just not sure if I should go with 3/4" all the way around since that would be a lot of weight and now that I have the added studs every two feet would it be necessary.

 

[astroracer]

For what you need it for drywall will work. My "welding, fabricating, painting, woodworking" shop has had gypsum on the walls for 30 years. With all of the work I do out there I have never "wished" for anything different. You are really overthinking this and spending a lot more money then you need to...
Mark

 

[lakeroadster]

Hey lakeroadster, thanks I'll check them out. What is the thickness of them and it appears you can put weight on them?

3/8" or 7/16"... application instructions

 

[NUTTSGT]

If it were mine, I'd stud the wall every 16"OC. I wouldn't use 3/4" unless you were seriously worried about somebody breaking in through a sidewall by screwing the metal off the outside.

You'll find out wall covering is probably the most debated topic here at GJ. First of all, make sure you follow the rules of your AHJ if you have inspections done/code requirements.

I would atleast use drywall on the wall that separates the shop from living quarters. The other walls, I would use plywood or OSB. 7/16" OSB is readily available is will be strong enough for 16" spacing. If I were to use plywood, 1/2" would be my choice as it is the commonly available thickness locally here.

Do some price comparisons with 16" spacing & 7/16 OSB or 1/2" plywood vs 24" spacing and 3/4" OSB/plywood.

 

[invalidusername]

I've got some FRP over 3/4" OSB on two of my side walls. The back wall (opposite of the doors will be reclaimed wood from the exterior of my old garage.

The fiberglass also doubles as a sudo white board and you can draw on it. Friends come over and draw stuff all the time. I like to draw up my design for some something I am mounting on the wall to keep me on track and not lose my piece of paper

 

[Oldbear]

We are just in the middle of covering the walls in our shop. I've gone 1/2" plywood for the uppers and anything behind a workbench, closet or boiler. We used 2" hardwood flooring staples into the plastic ties of our ICF block. The bottom 40" will be "galvanized" metal sheets - but that is more a design choice over function.

Where the wall mount shop door opener will go I used 3/4" plywood that is screwed to the ties (and over kill on the screws...).

Around where my boiler hangs I used wood screws to help the staples hold the board - but I also added extra screws to hold the bracket straight to the ties.

My vice work bench will be bolted to the ties. The french cleats will be attached inline with the ties. The tire rack will attached to the ties. But the lighter display and storage shelves will be attached wherever they need to be.

My vote is to have wood rather than drywall or wood over drywall (if you need drywall for fire code) for the longevity of the walls - I've fixed a holes in the drywall of my old shop. It will take more abuse, more moisture (unless you get green/blue drywall)and feel more like a shop. Sure it will take up more paint than drywall. But with the ICF block construction having to find a "stud" with a stud finder is very hard - so painted plywood with rows of staples is what we will have.

...steps off soapbox...

 

[Wind_River]

Thanks for the replies folks they are really helpful for a guy new to this and by default being my own GC. I'll try to respond to all. Sorry for the length.

Astroracer,

You are probably correct in that I may be overthinking this, however, I'm working in Afghanistan and don't have the ability to be there and oversee it or do some of it myself. I'm doing this from the other side of the pond and not being present makes me more cautious and research it to get it right. Unfortunately, this metal building/living area was put up a week before I had to leave so it has sat unfinished for the last year. When I was home this past July, I had all electrical put in and a stamped concrete slate slab for our patio/porch area leading off of the living area. I couldn't decide whether to go with a wood deck, composite or concrete, but with this being in the woods at our lake property many brought up the issue of critters, snakes, etc getting under a deck so I went with concrete and the stamped, textured slate turned out great. With regards to the shop, I considered drywall but have three adult sons and I with jet skis, 4 wheelers, dirt bikes, mower, boats, etc. coming and going out of the shop so a bit concerned with punching holes into the drywall. A lot of movement and activity in the summer months.

Lakeroadster,

I really like the pic of your shop and the LP smart side panel but again wonder about it being too thin and potential to knock holes in it? No, we don't plan to have fights in there, but lots of activity leads to bumps in the night. Since I'll have shelves for storage along two walls, it may work.

Shrine,

I haven't had a chance to check out your pics, as they wouldn't open on the government computer in the office due to security restrictions, I'll get to them in my room.

NTTSGT,

We've already studded the wall at 24" OC with the 2x4's facing out on their surface and not on their edge or side. I think I've figured out how to attach a pic so will post one of what I'm talking about. Maybe this isn't the best way to do it but is how I had it done. Wish I would have checked here first.

Although in a semi-remote area, I'm not too worried about someone breaking in. I'm new at this so thanks for the heads up on this topic being a hot one or debated a lot. Still learning. And yes, we plan to put sound board up then some sort of wall surface in the area separating the shop from the living quarters. A few back at home recommended the sound board and it sounds like a good idea so for now am planning on sound board and then either OSB, plywood, drywall or something over it.

Invalid user,

I was not aware of FRP, had to google it. Once seeing it, I am familiar with it and seen it's application just didn't know what it was called. That could be an option over the sound board, still considering options for the rest of the shop. The reclaimed wood sounds awesome but a bit expensive for me, unless I can find some. Are you doing the tongue and groove yourself, having it done or just putting it up edge to edge?

Oldbear,

I had to look up ICF as well and still trying to figure out what you mean by the staples and ties. By saying you have 1/2" plywood for the uppers do you mean the rest of your wall to the ceiling? We are not required to have drywall and codes are very few. Yeah, I'm leaning toward wood especially where the work bench area will be.

Thanks folks for the advice, I'm checking them all out.

 

[Kevin54]

If you are not a ram *** and throw wrenches and stuff, drywall is most definitely acceptable. If you are clumsy when carrying something, or get pissed and toss wrenches, then you want OSB on the walls.