Questions about trusses and a lift

[Ticketed2much]

I am in the planning stages of my long awaited garage. Township allows 1000sq’ before a lot of red tape so plan is a 31’x31’. If money permits I’d like a 2 post bendpack like:

So I’d like to keep the sidewalls as short as possible since our house is a ranch. Contractor suggested 10’ sidewalls may work with a truss like one of the following, he’s going to do some calculations and get back:

He’s my crude drawing to give you an idea what I am talking about.

So is this the best/most economic way of going about it?

Thanks

 

[T_R]

I think that would work fine. Ideally you want 12' above the lift. But those lifts are short. You could get them under low ceilings, car just won't go as high up.

I have a similar baseplate lift in mine with only 8' ceiling.

 

[mike93lx]

Do you want to be able to stand under the lift? What kinds of cars are you putting on it?

 

[Ticketed2much]

Do you want to be able to stand under the lift? What kinds of cars are you putting on it?

Mostly VWs and smaller cars but I do have a full size Silverado that may be on there occasionally.

I think I’ll have 12’ in the center of the garage with the scissor joist, and I figure 6’ under the truck and 6’ for the truck?

Thanks for the replies so far.

 

[6768rogues]

There is more waste in building a structure with odd dimensions. Even numbers have less waste, especially modules of 4'. I would build 30x32 with a 40 square foot pump out for a compressor, using the whole 1000 square feet.
I have a 14' ceiling with a ceiling fan that hangs down about 20" over my lift. There have only been a couple of times that I had to shut off the fan because a vehicle was too close for comfort.

 

[pinesdune]

Check out the lift manufacturer’s web site for the install plans for the lift you want, then you can make sure the concrete is good enough for the lifts footings where you want to place it. Truss rafters are a great way to get more clearance.


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[Kevin54]

With 10' walls and a lift on one side of the garage....I have a 9000# lift. I have 10' walls. The minimum I could go with was a 4:12 pitch Scissor truss. That gives me enough room to raise up my '02 Dodge ram and walk underneath the truck. I'm 5'11 and at that, I have to crank my head sideways under it once in a while.

 

[astroracer]

I would go 28' x 36'. Ask for a variance for that extra 8'. With your layout you want to get that lift out of the way of the other cars as they are pulled in. Most 2 posts are going to be around 10' wide. AND you want to keep that lift off the wall by at least 3' (4' is better). In your sketch that puts the lift 16' from the other door. Doing the 36' will give you 20' or so for some working room around a car on the lift.
Also, just so you are aware, BendPak's site recommends 4" of 3000psi concrete for their 9 and 10K lifts. that's minimum but it will be okay for your floor. Maybe spec 3500 psi to cover the bases. You do not need footings under the lift. A flat floor will suffice.
Mark

 

[Ticketed2much]

There is more waste in building a structure with odd dimensions. Even numbers have less waste, especially modules of 4'. I would build 30x32 with a 40 square foot pump out for a compressor, using the whole 1000 square feet.
I have a 14' ceiling with a ceiling fan that hangs down about 20" over my lift. There have only been a couple of times that I had to shut off the fan because a vehicle was too close for comfort.

Ok, I’ll talk to the contractor about the size.

Check out the lift manufacturer’s web site for the install plans for the lift you want, then you can make sure the concrete is good enough for the lifts footings where you want to place it. Truss rafters are a great way to get more clearance.


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Will do

With 10' walls and a lift on one side of the garage....I have a 9000# lift. I have 10' walls. The minimum I could go with was a 4:12 pitch Scissor truss. That gives me enough room to raise up my '02 Dodge ram and walk underneath the truck. I'm 5'11 and at that, I have to crank my head sideways under it once in a while.

That’s about what I am planning. I believe the contractor said he’d go with a 5:12 due to width of garage.

I would go 28' x 36'. Ask for a variance for that extra 8'. With your layout you want to get that lift out of the way of the other cars as they are pulled in. Most 2 posts are going to be around 10' wide. AND you want to keep that lift off the wall by at least 3' (4' is better). In your sketch that puts the lift 16' from the other door. Doing the 36' will give you 20' or so for some working room around a car on the lift.
Also, just so you are aware, BendPak's site recommends 4" of 3000psi concrete for their 9 and 10K lifts. that's minimum but it will be okay for your floor. Maybe spec 3500 psi to cover the bases. You do not need footings under the lift. A flat floor will suffice.
Mark

Yeah I did look at Bendpacks install directions and sizes. I’ll double check them. ATM all the cars that would be in the front of the garage are smaller.

Problem is the township requires more elaborate plans involving engineering above 1000sq ft. ***** but if I can keep it below that it will save a couple grand.

 

[jetnow1]

As already stated 30 by 32 would make more economical use of materials. I would put a raised stem wall under the walls to get the height needed, then
use 10foot walls. easy way to get the height and concrete base is waterproof.
That being said, there is not much cost difference in 30 by 32 vs 31 by 31, any competent contractor should be able to handle either one.

 

[wssix99]

I think I’ll have 12’ in the center of the garage with the scissor joist, and I figure 6’ under the truck and 6’ for the truck?

This will leave you a little short.

You'll want to pick out your lift and also figure out your floor, first!!!

Your floor will likely need to be sloped to meet code. (You would then level it for the section you are going to set the lift posts.) If you design the walls and ceiling for the 12' height at the garage door, it will leave you short in the middle of the room where your posts are going to go.

So, you'll need to figure out your floor slope now (also) and should probably add a few inches to the height to give you some wiggle room.

 

[Voi]

Look into parallel chord trusses for the area where the lift would go. Then switch to scissor trusses like in your embedded image for the rest to save money.

I'm designing our next garage & I'm probably going to have to switch to parallel chord trusses in our third stall in order to fit a four post.

 

[polizei1]

I can post a few pictures, I'm building right now.

Concrete is 5" thick, 4,500PSI with extra rebar reinforcement in the 3rd bay. Garage is 31'9x23'4". Cathedral ceiling in the 3rd bay will finish at probably 16'+, flat ceiling finishes about 11'4". I have just over 12' in the width of the cathedral trusses.

While lift choice is subjective, I would highly suggest looking into an open-floor model.

Hope that helps.

 

[Ticketed2much]

As already stated 30 by 32 would make more economical use of materials. I would put a raised stem wall under the walls to get the height needed, then
use 10foot walls. easy way to get the height and concrete base is waterproof.
That being said, there is not much cost difference in 30 by 32 vs 31 by 31, any competent contractor should be able to handle either one.

That may be the way I go, seems like another foot may give me a little extra security.

This will leave you a little short.

You'll want to pick out your lift and also figure out your floor, first!!!

Your floor will likely need to be sloped to meet code. (You would then level it for the section you are going to set the lift posts.) If you design the walls and ceiling for the 12' height at the garage door, it will leave you short in the middle of the room where your posts are going to go.

So, you'll need to figure out your floor slope now (also) and should probably add a few inches to the height to give you some wiggle room.

Will do.

Look into parallel chord trusses for the area where the lift would go. Then switch to scissor trusses like in your embedded image for the rest to save money.

I'm designing our next garage & I'm probably going to have to switch to parallel chord trusses in our third stall in order to fit a four post.

Will do

I can post a few pictures, I'm building right now.

Concrete is 5" thick, 4,500PSI with extra rebar reinforcement in the 3rd bay. Garage is 31'9x23'4". Cathedral ceiling in the 3rd bay will finish at probably 16'+, flat ceiling finishes about 11'4". I have just over 12' in the width of the cathedral trusses.

While lift choice is subjective, I would highly suggest looking into an open-floor model.

Hope that helps.

Your garage looks awesome! I thought about only using scissors over the lift area but I thought it would look better being all the same?

Also if anyone has experience with radiant floor heat, do I run piping under the lift pads or go around them?

 

[Earp69]

Seeing as your anchors will be 5-6 I inches long I would definately say around them,but that's just me. Those parallel chord trusses are the ticket,thats just what I was looking for in my build, thanks voi

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[wssix99]

Also if anyone has experience with radiant floor heat, do I run piping under the lift pads or go around them?

Around around around.

Also, even when you put the tubing around (take pictures before the pour), you'll still want to double check with an infrared camera before you drill.

 

[Voi]

Your garage looks awesome! I thought about only using scissors over the lift area but I thought it would look better being all the same?

Several builds here have switched from vaulted trusses (whether scissor or parallel chord) and then switch to attic trusses with a flat ceiling in the rest.

Based on the pictures I think they look great.

 

[polizei1]

I talked to the builder about doing the scissor trusses for the whole garage. Cost was slightly more, but not enough to deter me. The main reason for me not doing it is because the house is a ranch, and I didn't want attic access in the house. That left the garage as the only place left, and I didn't want some weird door access on the side. The other reason was also due to storage, while not a lot...a little is better than nothing, and I'll also be running a NG heater, so the lower ceilings will help (I think) keep the costs down.

You can also look into doing coffer trusses.

View media item 7636

 

[Ticketed2much]

Several builds here have switched from vaulted trusses (whether scissor or parallel chord) and then switch to attic trusses with a flat ceiling in the rest.

Based on the pictures I think they look great.

Yeah looked into it a bit, looks good.

I talked to the builder about doing the scissor trusses for the whole garage. Cost was slightly more, but not enough to deter me. The main reason for me not doing it is because the house is a ranch, and I didn't want attic access in the house. That left the garage as the only place left, and I didn't want some weird door access on the side. The other reason was also due to storage, while not a lot...a little is better than nothing, and I'll also be running a NG heater, so the lower ceilings will help (I think) keep the costs down.

You can also look into doing coffer trusses.

View media item 7636

That’s what the contractor was originally thinking.