Foam board insulation glue?

[warren57]

Would like to glue foam board insulation to the interior of a metal Quonset building. The temp. of the steel gets pretty hot in the summertime, hot enough you can’t touch it. Haven’t checked actual temp. But is likely 160 degrees or more. Summertime temps can go over 100 degrees here and with direct sun beating down, very hot.
In the winter, temps can go -10 degrees or more.
So, would like to glue 1-1/2” think foam board directly to the steel. My question, what type glue to use. Can’t see any temp. ratings on things like liquid nails, construction adhesive, etc.
Can’t afford to have someone come out to do spray foam. Figured if I can glue insulation boards up, as I can afford them, that would be my best bet (darn retirement limits expensive projects, ha ha)
Or, I could glue on the stick pins and use fiberglass rolled insulation, but still need a glue that would stand up.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Probably the best thing to do is shoot either or both Liquid Nails and Loctite an email and ask them this same question. You'll get no better information than directly from the source.

 

[Jon_E]

I glued polyiso foam board with fiberglass facing to the inside of my garage walls, although they are OSB (Zipwall) not steel. I used Loctite Power Grab Heavy Duty adhesive, and it worked very well. Not sure about the temperature extremes that it will withstand, however.

 

[ssdave]

Might be best to use spray foam to glue the foam board on. I'd inquire of the manufacturer, given the high temps you expect. The insulation will just raise the temps even more. I'd use foil faced, and face the shiny side towards the outside wall.

 

[Frost]

I glued rigid foam board to the block in my basement using PL 300 adhesive. It has to cure above 5C/40F, but it is fine to much higher and lower temperatures after it has cured.

Its prime advantage for me over other foam-compatible adhesives (I put up a few boards with PL Premium, for example) is that it is cheaper and readily available in 28oz tubes.

 

[rc.valencia.3]

This is what we use on molten sulphur storage tanks.
Insulation hanger with a self-stick base. Just peel the release paper from the hanger base and firmly press the base to the clean duct surface. Impale the insulation over the hanger nail and slip on the locking washer. Self-stick hangers adhere to clean metal surfaces and withstand temperatures of up to 175°F.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Abeo]

Might be best to use spray foam to glue the foam board on.

After trying PL300, I used spray foam to attach foil backed insulation on my garage door. The spray foam stuck way better and was quicker and easier to work with.

 

[aka Larry]

Not to high jack your thread, but I'm looking to do something similar to my metal building. My questions are which foam board (Lowes or HD link?), and like you, how to attach it?

 

[James-W]

I use construction adhesive for a lot of projects and it works really well. I never tried it with foam insulation board, but I am pretty sure it would work. It may be difficult to remove the foam board once the the adhesive has had time to fully cure though. Not sure why you would want to remove it, but if you did want to, you may have a problem doing it.

 

[wssix99]

This is a hard equation to solve for. The regular foamboard adhesives won't take the temp.

This one won't dissolve the foam but can take up to 160 degrees. Do you think that's enough? http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/PL_CA_PREM_ADV_tds.pdf

^ I'm not aware of something that will perform better for this application and not dissolve the foam. (That doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I'd be interested to know if someone has a higher performing option.)

 

[Casey69]

honestly, none of it worked all that well for me. i tried using construction adhesive, but that didn't work any better than foam board glue (like this):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-VOC-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

if it's the owens insulpink stuff, it has a glossy plastic coating that makes just about any adhesive difficult to stick to.

 

[Firebrick43]

Foam2foam
https://www.wind-lock.com/wind-lock-foam2foam-gun-foam-adhesive-case-of-12-w--f2f24
Fills gaps, glues to multiple substrates and is awesome to work with opposed to a caulk gun. Most Icf contractors use this.

Great stuff makes a similar product as well that is available at Menards. Each have advantages but the differences are small.
http://greatstuff.dow.com/product/pro-wall-and-floor.htm

Make sure you get the gun and not the crappy self dispensing cans.

 

[Firebrick43]

honestly, none of it worked all that well for me. i tried using construction adhesive, but that didn't work any better than foam board glue (like this):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-VOC-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

if it's the owens insulpink stuff, it has a glossy plastic coating that makes just about any adhesive difficult to stick to.

Only the thinner stuff(1/2") has the plastic coating. It's should be peeled and is easy to do if you are glueing it up. 3/4"-3" that I have personally used has not had this plastic coating

 

[PWC Repair]

They make special hangers and such for insulating a quonset hut style building. They thread on to the assembly bolts of the building.