The VISES of Garage Journal

[gman007]

This monster 9" popped up for sale locally and i had to take a double take look at it just to laugh!!

Bcom
What is the COO of this vise? I could not find the coo but I found the specs.
The jaws on most of these foreign vises can be ridiculously wide and stupid with respect to the size and weight of the vise. It reminds me of skinny guy but with huge oversized helmet pretending he is a 350 lb linebacker.

This vise at 9" it weighs 111 lb compared to 300+ lb for an 8" American Iron. An American 6" vise weighs around 160 lb, and Asian stuff at 6" weighs like 30lb or something like that, it is crazy.

 

[jonshonda]

Jon
Personally the way I interpret it, rusty is making several valid points
1- There are much better choices than Asian made HF vises specially at those prices (namely the old American Irons)
2- Having made the above point, in general it is obviously ridiculous to try to sell a used vise or for that matter used anything else for close or more than what a new one costs.

I actually find the second point regarding the audacity of some people quite funny.

Finally and more importantly and again I speak for myself, members such as Rusty and many others who have greatly contributed to GJ in general and to this thread in particular have my utmost respect as I have learned and benefited greatly from their experience, wisdom and advice.

There needs to be a sarcasm font created and nationally recognized by someone....they could make millions!! No offense to rusty...the reply sounded better in my head then on paper!

 

[KMScott]

I put together a base from a mini Brookstone anvil and a 3/4 - 3/8 pipe reducer for my little 1 3/8" offset vise. The reducer was sanded to remove the stamping and trimmed to fit the base top and bottom. It is held together with a piece of 1/4" threaded rod. The vise has no name on it but is built well.

That is a awesome job you did GET. Looks like a pretty small vise.

 

[gman007]

I put together a base from a mini Brookstone anvil and a 3/4 - 3/8 pipe reducer for my little 1 3/8" offset vise. The reducer was sanded to remove the stamping and trimmed to fit the base top and bottom. It is held together with a piece of 1/4" threaded rod. The vise has no name on it but is built well.

Get, looks fantastic. Super nice job

 

[gman007]

Here are two I just got done with for the new shop a Wilton and Yost. Both went verse green because I could only find a case of 6 from Home Depot

Six, great job, both turned out very nice. I am a Wilton groupie but man that Yost looks majestic (and it was made next door to where I live)

 

[drivesitfar]

GET: do you like working on the little ones more than the monsters? nice looking vise and another WELL DONE SIR.

Six: that's a couple nice vises to have in your working shop which looks like you've got a nice space.

Jr: you might be asking for the REAL LINSEED OIL, turpentine, and beeswax that doesn't have Japan dryer in it. I think last week a member posted a vise with just Corrosion X on it that looked pretty nice.

last year Joe and Bagged were putting BLO on their vises and put them in their $99 smokers to cook on the BLO for a pretty nice shine, but i hear it STINKS so the smoker should maybe be set outside which might not work for your weather now.

good luck

 

[Bcom]

Bcom
What is the COO of this vise? I could not find the coo but I found the specs.
The jaws on most of these foreign vises can be ridiculously wide and stupid with respect to the size and weight of the vise. It reminds me of skinny guy but with huge oversized helmet pretending he is a 350 lb linebacker.

This vise at 9" it weighs 111 lb compared to 300+ lb for an 8" American Iron. An American 6" vise weighs around 160 lb, and Asian stuff at 6" weighs like 30lb or something like that, it is crazy.

Not alot is being said on what country produces this vise. The quality sure as heck isn't American however i have seen other ads for this vise stating the engineering,testing,and assembly is done here in America. I can't believe how much this turd actually costs! The cost of $250 must be paying for the American workers assembly wages because it sure as heck isn't paying for the manufacturing quality. The spindle is so tiny. Like it was made for a 3" vise. Anyway the reviews on this vise are less than good. Someone just put 9" monster jaws on a vise that shouldn't be any bigger than 3".

 

[Bcom]

I put together a base from a mini Brookstone anvil and a 3/4 - 3/8 pipe reducer for my little 1 3/8" offset vise. The reducer was sanded to remove the stamping and trimmed to fit the base top and bottom. It is held together with a piece of 1/4" threaded rod. The vise has no name on it but is built well.

Oh wow! I'm really loving this setup. I wish you would have put a can next to the vise for perspective. Very well done!

 

[gman007]

Not alot is being said on what country produces this vise. The quality sure as heck isn't American however i have seen other ads for this vise stating the engineering,testing,and assembly is done here in America. I can't believe how much this turd actually costs! The cost of $250 must be paying for the American workers assembly wages because it sure as heck isn't paying for the manufacturing quality. The spindle is so tiny. Like it was made for a 3" vise. Anyway the reviews on this vise are less than good. Someone just put 9" monster jaws on a vise that shouldn't be any bigger than 3".

Here is the campaign Ad picture for the vise

 

[jrobb316]

GET: do you like working on the little ones more than the monsters? nice looking vise and another WELL DONE SIR.

Six: that's a couple nice vises to have in your working shop which looks like you've got a nice space.

Jr: you might be asking for the REAL LINSEED OIL, turpentine, and beeswax that doesn't have Japan dryer in it. I think last week a member posted a vise with just Corrosion X on it that looked pretty nice.

last year Joe and Bagged were putting BLO on their vises and put them in their $99 smokers to cook on the BLO for a pretty nice shine, but i hear it STINKS so the smoker should maybe be set outside which might not work for your weather now.

good luck

I thought there was some other solution people were using that was superior to BLO. In any case its so dry where I work it would never rust if left raw. I do have a can of corrosion X at home too.

 

[KMScott]

I thought there was some other solution people were using that was superior to BLO. In any case its so dry where I work it would never rust if left raw. I do have a can of corrosion X at home too.

I like this stuff made by Sculpt Nouveau. It is called Metal Oil and comes in various colors. These guys specialize in antique finishing. Worth a look. This Rock Island came out pretty nice on my first try. Took a day to dry so you can handle the vise and gets harder over time.

 

[chrisnazzy]

I've been content tinkering with my Rock Islands, Athols and Parkers to this point. Never intended to really get into Wilton vises. Figured I'd maybe pick one up someday if the right deal fell in my lap.

Well, here is my newly acquired 153lb Wilton 600N from FB marketplace last night. Obviously too good to pass up at $50.

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[gman007]

I like this stuff made by Sculpt Nouveau. It is called Metal Oil and comes in various colors. These guys specialize in antique finishing. Worth a look. This Rock Island came out pretty nice on my first try. Took a day to dry so you can handle the vise and gets harder over time.

If the intent is to keep the nice "naked" look of the vise and also protect it from rusting, are there any big disadvantages JUST applying several coats of the clear coat without painting the vise (obviously after striping the vise to bare metal)?
Has anyone tried this?

 

[BMR24]

The issue I see that may arise with a clear coat would be when the paint scuffs spot repairs wouldn't look as nice. Also you wouldn't be able to use a primer. At least I don't know of any clear primers. With oil, you can just reapply as needed and it will blend in. Won't flake or peel either.

 

[trijeff]

I've been content tinkering with my Rock Islands, Athols and Parkers to this point. Never intended to really get into Wilton vises. Figured I'd maybe pick one up someday if the right deal fell in my lap.

Well, here is my newly acquired 153lb Wilton 600N from FB marketplace last night. Obviously too good to pass up at $50.

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Um, you ****!

Great pick up and entry to Wilton

 

[bluebolt]

I've been content tinkering with my Rock Islands, Athols and Parkers to this point. Never intended to really get into Wilton vises. Figured I'd maybe pick one up someday if the right deal fell in my lap.

Well, here is my newly acquired 153lb Wilton 600N from FB marketplace last night. Obviously too good to pass up at $50.

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You ****! That vise looks to be in good shape.

 

[gman007]

The issue I see that may arise with a clear coat would be when the paint scuffs spot repairs wouldn't look as nice. Also you wouldn't be able to use a primer. At least I don't know of any clear primers. With oil, you can just reapply as needed and it will blend in. Won't flake or peel either.

In terms of scuff/scratch repair and flake or peel the same holds true if one paints the vise too. So in this sense one might not be any worse off than having painted it. And in fact a scuff/scratch of clear coat should not be as visible as a bright paint scratch and hence might not require repair as compared to a painted vise.

As for adhesion to the metal without a primer, that is what I am not sure of. Is the primary purpose of a primer to ensure better adhesion of the paint or is to make it easier to paint an object different colors? What I mean is say one wants to paint a bare vise red. Now without a applying a primer it will take many coats of red paint to ensure the red color truly comes through, so that is a very obvious purpose of the primer. I am fairly sure that the adhesion is another reason for using a primer but does it mean without primer the adhesion will be really bad?

The question that I am raising is how do we know a clear coat will not adhere to the bare metal as good a primer or paint? And if does reasonably adhere, why not use it in this manner?

 

[Bcom]

I've been content tinkering with my Rock Islands, Athols and Parkers to this point. Never intended to really get into Wilton vises. Figured I'd maybe pick one up someday if the right deal fell in my lap.

Well, here is my newly acquired 153lb Wilton 600N from FB marketplace last night. Obviously too good to pass up at $50.

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Wow! You really ****!

 

[Shiftless]

Wow! You really ****!

from me too!

 

[chrisnazzy]

Um, you ****!

Great pick up and entry to Wilton

You ****! That vise looks to be in good shape.

Thanks. It definitely seems to be in great condition. Just a heavy coat of rattle can gloss black to remove. Handle, jaws and commonly abused "anvil" surface appear to be free of major hammer marks. It's dated 8 86. Certainly newer than I expected. Seller says it sat unused outside for the last 15 years on a work table next to his garage. Gotta love AZ.

On another note, it's a big SOB. I recently picked up a 164lb Reed 406 in CA for CrotalusAtrox and what amazes me with both vises is how you really can't take a picture that truly captures the size of these beasts.



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[trijeff]

Just wait until you run into one of the really big ones, 300 lbs plus. I remember the first time I laid eyes on one and actually laughing out loud because it seemed so comically big. But now I see one every day in the shop and it's like driving on the freeway, after awhile ** (enter your speed here) doesn't seem so fast

 

[Fretters]

The question that I am raising is how do we know a clear coat will not adhere to the bare metal as good a primer or paint? And if does reasonably adhere, why not use it in this manner?

There's only ever one way to find out for definite. When I first did the tests with linseed oil, shoe polish etc., I knew there shouldn't be a problem, but you'll only ever find out by doing it.

 

[Gary Indiana]

There are still Columbians out there in the supply system but Wilton stopped making them a few years ago. Only vises still being made in the USA I am aware of are the higher end Yost, Morgan and Wilton vises.

Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I was surprised to see on Amazon new 4" Columbians of that 1968 style. Must be new old stock then.

 

[drivesitfar]

CHRIS: yep they don't get a lot bigger in a 6 inch old US made vise than a Reed 406, but like TJ mentioned once you hit the 8 inchers it's like JUMBO SIZING something.

nice find and since it sat outside in 120 degree temps all summer for all those years my guess is maybe the grease has dried out??

ALL: as some of you know i'm on more than a few threads here on GJ and i just asked the guys over on this fairly new thread how they keep their shiny steel from rusting so you might want to follow it. here's the link even if you only like seeing SHINY OLD STEEL:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377463

this SHARKHIDE was mentioned that i've never hear about, but it's used in marine environment and sounds like it keeps things SHINY so might be one to add to our list. anybody use it?

 

[gman007]

Only vises still being made in the USA I am aware of are the higher end Yost, Morgan and Wilton vises.

how about higher end Reeds?

 

[BMR24]

As for adhesion to the metal without a primer, that is what I am not sure of. Is the primary purpose of a primer to ensure better adhesion of the paint or is to make it easier to paint an object different colors? What I mean is say one wants to paint a bare vise red. Now without a applying a primer it will take many coats of red paint to ensure the red color truly comes through, so that is a very obvious purpose of the primer. I am fairly sure that the adhesion is another reason for using a primer but does it mean without primer the adhesion will be really bad?

The question that I am raising is how do we know a clear coat will not adhere to the bare metal as good a primer or paint? And if does reasonably adhere, why not use it in this manner?

I was told by a painter that if primer wasn't used then the paint would peel. That conversation was about wood though. I always figured that the same must apply to metal otherwise nobody would bother buying primer. But now you've got me wondering....
Maby I'll paint some scrap metal, half with primer and half without, then throw it outside and see how it holds up to the weather.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Bcom, gman, drives, Kevin
Thanks for the comments ! The smaller ones are just harder to mask off when painting.
Sorry for the delay, I have been gone all day.

 

[BeardedOne]

So today I came across a 3-4" Wizard vise that had Kansas city listed on the name plate. I looked closer at the swivel base, and it said Milwaukee Tools and had Japan on the bottom as well.

Does anyone have any backstory to it? The price was knocked down to $32 for me, and it also has pipe jaws.

I also found it to be really heavy for it's size. I'm guessing about 30lbs.

 

[Shiftless]

Wizard was the house brand for the now defunct Western Auto. Western Auo was bought out by Advance Auto Parts.
If it says Japan on the bottom, look for the BF foundry mark. Many Craftsman vises from the ‘70s and maybe other times were cast in the BF foundry in Daido, Japan. Those vises hold up well. Good quality.

 

[gman007]

I was told by a painter that if primer wasn't used then the paint would peel. That conversation was about wood though. I always figured that the same must apply to metal otherwise nobody would bother buying primer. But now you've got me wondering....
Maby I'll paint some scrap metal, half with primer and half without, then throw it outside and see how it holds up to the weather.

Stating the obvious, can you please make sure the scrap metal is either already clean/shinny and free of rust, crud, grease etc or clean it up otherwise as the test is to simulate a clear coat on clean/ shinny vise

 

[BeardedOne]

Wizard was the house brand for the now defunct Western Auto. Western Auo was bought out by Advance Auto Parts.
If it says Japan on the bottom, look for the BF foundry mark. Many Craftsman vises from the ‘70s and maybe other times were cast in the BF foundry in Daido, Japan. Those vises hold up well. Good quality.

Thank you!

I don't remember seeing anything telling me what foundry it was, but I will look closer tomorrow. There were a few cob webs on the base that I'll clean up and take some better photos of after the purchase.

 

[Firewire]

I like this stuff made by Sculpt Nouveau. It is called Metal Oil and comes in various colors. These guys specialize in antique finishing. Worth a look. This Rock Island came out pretty nice on my first try. Took a day to dry so you can handle the vise and gets harder over time.

Thanks for sharing that product! Looks good!

 

[Outlawmws]

Get, that is nothing but Awesome!

I put together a base from a mini Brookstone anvil and a 3/4 - 3/8 pipe reducer for my little 1 3/8" offset vise. The reducer was sanded to remove the stamping and trimmed to fit the base top and bottom. It is held together with a piece of 1/4" threaded rod. The vise has no name on it but is built well.

 

[jonshonda]

Got the Prentiss No95 refresh complete. Brought the screw and swivel handles into work today to get them straightened on the press. I also replaced the castle nut that secures the screw to the dynamic jaw w/ a set screw collar. The collar I bought was too tight of a fit so I put it on the lathe and took a little material off the inside. It was also a little to large in diameter as there is a machined face that original castle nut spun on, so I took some more material off the OD of the collar.

Overall I am happy with the results, not I just need to let the final coat of BLO dry, find some nice hardware, and bolt it to the bench.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/38915887094/in/dateposted-public/" title="Prentiss Vise"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/38915887094_13dac19718_c.jpg" width="800" height="525" alt="Prentiss Vise"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[bhydro]

I have some Chas. Parker parts available if anyone is looking to repair.

All have been cleaned up

(1) Swivel base #973 1/2 A (complete - minus wrench)
(1) #1 Main Screw Nut (complete)
(1) #433 1/2 - 3.5" main draw bar w/ retention collar, main screw & spare jaw (complete) Parker used hardened tool for their jaws.

I am not sure which models all these parts interchange with. The 443 1/2 main body is toast with the front broken off.

I was going to separate all the pieces and sell them off on eBay, but thought I would make sure nobody here needs them first.

Firewire, I have a CP 202 (3"). The brake shoes were broken. Internal housing diam. is 4 5/8". I'm guessing the 973 1/2 is slightly bigger?

 

[chrisnazzy]

Got the Prentiss No95 refresh complete. Brought the screw and swivel handles into work today to get them straightened on the press. I also replaced the castle nut that secures the screw to the dynamic jaw w/ a set screw collar. The collar I bought was too tight of a fit so I put it on the lathe and took a little material off the inside. It was also a little to large in diameter as there is a machined face that original castle nut spun on, so I took some more material off the OD of the collar.

Overall I am happy with the results, not I just need to let the final coat of BLO dry, find some nice hardware, and bolt it to the bench.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/38915887094/in/dateposted-public/" title="Prentiss Vise"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/38915887094_13dac19718_c.jpg" width="800" height="525" alt="Prentiss Vise"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Very nice sir. I've got a Prentiss 53 I'm working on right now. What's the jaw width on your 95?


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[gman007]

Got the Prentiss No95 refresh complete. Brought the screw and swivel handles into work today to get them straightened on the press. I also replaced the castle nut that secures the screw to the dynamic jaw w/ a set screw collar. The collar I bought was too tight of a fit so I put it on the lathe and took a little material off the inside. It was also a little to large in diameter as there is a machined face that original castle nut spun on, so I took some more material off the OD of the collar.

Overall I am happy with the results, not I just need to let the final coat of BLO dry, find some nice hardware, and bolt it to the bench.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/38915887094/in/dateposted-public/" title="Prentiss Vise"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/38915887094_13dac19718_c.jpg" width="800" height="525" alt="Prentiss Vise"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Jon, Turned out very nice and the handle and nose look very shinny and well published. Great job

 

[jonshonda]

Very nice sir. I've got a Prentiss 53 I'm working on right now. What's the jaw width on your 95

I think it's a 5"....i need to double check though as there is very little info floating around on this model.

Jon, Turned out very nice and the handle and nose look very shinny and well published. Great job

Thanks! There was a fair amount of pitting from corrosion on the nose and the only good method I have to remove it is a 4.5" flapper disc on my angle grinder. I have a bunch of lighter grit discs on the way and might try and smooth it out a little more, but for now I am happy!!

 

[BMR24]

Does anyone have either a prentiss 91 dynamic jaw and nut or a prentiss 19 body that you would be willing to sell? I have a 91 body with a 19 dynamic in it. Thanks in advance

 

[gman007]

I was told by a painter that if primer wasn't used then the paint would peel. That conversation was about wood though. I always figured that the same must apply to metal otherwise nobody would bother buying primer. But now you've got me wondering....
Maby I'll paint some scrap metal, half with primer and half without, then throw it outside and see how it holds up to the weather.

By the way I have done a clear coat on none vise items, here is an example. It is a very old Morrills Saw Set that I restored some year back. It is still nice and shinny. But obviously a saw set is not subjected to the same rigors as a vise.