No wobble hole saw arbor system?

[rick carpenter]

I've searched and this has been covered before, but no real resolution. Plus there are new products out since the last go 'round. I have a Lenox hole saw set with two 3/8" shank arbors. One is for smaller dia saws, just plain screw-on against the fixed collar. With just a visual, the bit is not centered in the hole saw. So... wobble! The second arbor is for the larger saws, screw-on with sliding spring-loaded pin collar. The saw does not fit tightly to the larger arbor and wobbles but the drill bit doesn't, it does acceptable in use on wood. I also have two Fastcap Quick Mandrels with 7/16" shank arbors. The first one's bit wobbled, so I called for a replacement and the second one wobbles as well but the saw does not wobble in when locked into place. The drill bits have three flats however the set screws set against a small flat ground into one of the triangular edges. The bit fits loosely into the triangular housing to begin with so no wonder it wobbles with just friction holding it in place. Simply putting the set screw against one of the triangular flats and having the other two accurately locate it would have solved that issue. But then any generic three-flat bit of the correct dia could substitute in and Fastcap seems like they like to keep things proprietary.

On the other hand HD has a Milwaukee listing as "7/16 in. Quick Change Large Hole Saw Arbor with No Wobble" #49-56-9100
https://tinyurl.com/yaxuo6lc

It is only in 7/16 in shank tho. It has a locking nut under the pin collar and the drill bit looks to be set-screwed into place so if that is accurately located it may indeed be no wobble. Milwaukee does not advertise "No Wobble" but I'm hopeful.

And Spyder has a "1/2 in Hex 10 High Speed Steel Hole Saw Arbor - For Wood, Plastic, Metal" #600634
https://tinyurl.com/yarmjky4

The drill bit is fixed to their shanks (they also have 3/8 in systems), but the pin collar looks like it spring-loads to the saw. So while the bit may not wobble, the saw likely will. But then, it may do acceptable in use like the large shank Lenox arbor.

Anyone have any thoughts? (The Fastcaps are going back for sure.)

 

[dutchgray]

The wobble is often in the hole saws themselves, they aren't made to be a precision tool, even on plain threaded arbors some are terrible whilst others can be pretty good.

 

[Marctrees]

What about the hole saws w the integral arbors ? such as McCoy?

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1...c.1.64.psy-ab..0.2.204...0i13k1.0.WadisGvG0Hk

Marc

 

[American Locomotive]

Hole saws are cheap stamped blades, and will often wobble even with good arbors. If you want precise "hole saws", you'll need to buy annular cutters which cost significantly more.

 

[Musicinabottle]

I've never really had an issue with my Lennox set. I have two of the larger arbors with the sliding collars and one small arbor for the smaller hole saws. They wobble a bit but never has caused me any issues. If you want precise holes, have you thought about Forstner bits? Expensive, but they are nice.

 

[shawhite]

What are you drilling and what percision are you looking for.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I'm interested as well. I've used hole saws in my drill press for aluminum and the wobble and run out is crazy. Surely somebody makes something that doesn't do this. I have mag drills and annular cutters but you can't always use those on every project

Edit: these look pretty beefcake: http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...r-tool-accessories/hole-saws/sheet-metal/SM25

 

[jmarkwolf]

Hole saws are cheap stamped blades, and will often wobble even with good arbors. If you want precise "hole saws", you'll need to buy annular cutters which cost significantly more.

+1 on this.

 

[tarbellb]

Something like this is your next step up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Drill-Hog-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

[rick carpenter]

What about the hole saws w the integral arbors ? such as McCoy?

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1...c.1.64.psy-ab..0.2.204...0i13k1.0.WadisGvG0Hk

Marc

I thought about those at first and figured I'd dull the holes saws before the drill bits so why not go interchangeable. I might have to re-think that.

What are you drilling and what percision are you looking for.

I'm looking at cabinetry/trim/can light/re-wiring/etc work for their intended purpose. I had originally asked on another thread what drill for hole saws in stud walls because I can foresee having to go that route occasionally and knew the wrong drill might not fit.

 

[Rc_Guy]

We use these at work to drill for mechanical tee's on pipe, they don't seem to wobble at all.

 

[Radix2]

Hole saws are for non-visible work, and any of the decent brands work very well ( I like the Bosch quick change). Perfect for stud walls, wiring, etc. The center bit is only to control it until the rim engages,from then on, it is the rim not the bit controlling the hole.

For cabinetry forstner bits are used when you want an exact and clean hole ( hinges, etc).

 

[Marctrees]

Rick - The wobble you speak of is irritating, but acceptable for most jobs.

I think you may be like me, overly worried about accuracy often more than needed.

Sure.. on some things it matters, others not so much.

Yes, check out the Morse McCoy, readily available

The Tarbellb suggestion looks good, but I have no experience with them.

Regular hole saws are pretty slow going in wall studs, and unnecessary unless that's all you got.

No Pro concerned w speed would ever use them for that.

Auger bits for smaller holes, self feed bits kinda like the Tarbellb for the big plumbing holes...hole saws would take forever.

Marc

 

[shawhite]

Cabinetry and trim I would use a fostner bits.

For recessed cans I would use the adjustable hole saw jig sold by several brands

For studs and non visible work I would use an auger up to 1in and maybe a hole saw for bigger work as a last resort.

 

[6PTsocket]

I'm interested as well. I've used hole saws in my drill press for aluminum and the wobble and run out is crazy. Surely somebody makes something that doesn't do this. I have mag drills and annular cutters but you can't always use those on every project

Edit: these look pretty beefcake: http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...r-tool-accessories/hole-saws/sheet-metal/SM25

It gets expensive for big sizes but if the metal is not too thick punches like Greenlee cut very clean holes in sheet metal. As mentioned, Forstner bits for wood. For rougher work, hole saws are fine and the wobble is no big deal. For smaller sizes, in wood, there are also auger and spade bits that overlap hole saw sizes.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Sine Swept]

I like routers mounted on a jig for cutting super clean holes. Only works in certain circumstances though.

 

[Milton Shaw]

One help for wobble is to replace the pilot drill with a piece of drill rod that is much more rigid than a drill bit. Just predrill the hole with a 1/4 inch bit and then use the hole saw with a dowel rod of 1/4 drill rod that will hold it a lot steadier.

 

[Toolfool]

I have always used Lennox hole saws for cabinet/trim/can light applications, as well as a ton of door hardware, without a problem. I do replace them when they get dull.

 

[rick carpenter]

Rick - The wobble you speak of is irritating, but acceptable for most jobs.

If only the saw itself wobbles a little, I'll assume it nearly self-corrects as it's sawing. The Lenox system with the slightly wobbling saws works fine enough. But the Fastcap wobbling bits won't ever not wobble.

One help for wobble is to replace the pilot drill with a piece of drill rod that is much more rigid than a drill bit. Just predrill the hole with a 1/4 inch bit and then use the hole saw with a dowel rod of 1/4 drill rod that will hold it a lot steadier.

The Fastcap drill bit's flats are deep, almost to a true triangle. Maybe 1/32 or less of the round is left, so the bit hole won't accept a rod like you suggest.

So since the Fastcaps' bits will always wobble, they are going back. I'll try the Milwaukee "No Wobble" first since I can get one locally.

 

[rick carpenter]

90% Success! I bought me the Milwaukee 7/16" Quick Change Arbor today. With this one, the saw is threaded onto the arbor, the pin collar snaps into place, and and the saw is locked against the arbor threads with a locking nut with a rubber O-ring between the nut and the collar. (They make another 7/16" arbor for about a $1 less that does not have the locking nut, the pin collar just snaps into place. I'm not sure why they make this one.)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...Saw-Arbor-with-No-Wobble-49-56-9100/203113673

The drill bit does not wobble, but it was a little short for my Lenox hole saws so I substituted a longer 1/4" pilot bit after I ground a flat onto it. The hole saws themselves wobble a very little bit (which is why I said "90% Success") but once cutting do fine. The O-ring is probably necessary to let less-than-perfect-circle saws stabilize while cutting.

 

[matt_i]

Just to add, Hougen "Hol-Cutters" and Blair tool "Blaircutters" are very precise devices, basically designed for sheetmetal apps.

The blair cutters are a mini annular cutter while the Hol Cutter is a fully machined part rather than a bandsaw blade welded in a circle. They both have the screw-in shanks but its all more precise.

The downside is on thickness capacity, IIRC a standard holesaw is good for 1-1/2" depth, the Hol-cutters are limited to 1/8" thick.

 

[pepi]

This is Milwaukee, cuts clean holes

 

[Kenstone1]

Using a hole saw in a hand drill and not being perpendicular when the saw 1st contacts the wood will cause it to wobble, in a drill press not so much.
I try and drill the pilot hole with a separate drill, not the hole-saw center bit, and use a guide to keep the hole straight/perpendicular...then use the hole-saw.

Also, scoring the wood/metal by initially running the hole-saw in REVERSE will create a perfectly centered round shallow groove that will guide the hole-saw when it is switched to forward and cutting.
try it...

 

[Dingleburry]

Hole saws are cheap stamped blades, and will often wobble even with good arbors. If you want precise "hole saws", you'll need to buy annular cutters which cost significantly more.

Thiss annular cutter.
Anything with a set screw is not concentric....