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1966 F100 EcoBoost Engine Swap (EcoBoosted)

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D45

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3 ounces every week of this nasty fluid collected from the passenger side PVC......imagine all this **** getting ingested in to the motor nonstop, if I didn't have a catch can

I also go through Iridium spark plugs every 20,000 miles and get 13 MPG!!!

I think that the problem was corrected by 2015ish, when they started using DIRECT and PORT injection in the 3.5L Ecoboost


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TimeWarpF100

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Great stuff as usual Randy! So glad you caught the melanoma early...take care.

Thanks!
Pretty good paint today but getting by. 13 stitches in back with a 1" x 1 1/2" piece of my back removed 4sure feelin' it.


Did you sell Eco 1 to make $$ or to be able to build an improved Eco 2?
What will be different with Eco 2?
I enjoy your thread.

Yes, Sold Eco1 strictly to allow me to finish other projects. Loved that Truck!
427 Truck getting major upgrades but Eco2 will stay on plan. Goal there is the powerplant and transmission upgrade along with brake upgrade (OEM ford stuff) along with making the truck as close to "Showroom New" as possible. 427 Truck really needed a better brake option along with wheel fitment and mandatory 18"+ wheel to fit the 14" brakes. Kindof a dream wheel too.


As a lifelong Minnesotan, I am very jealous and amazed by the quality iron you have in non salt/rust states. 7 year old vehicles don't look that clean here.

Few more pics of sheet metal as letting it dry out. Just finished steamcleaning the cab and doors.

TW...you sound alot more upbeat now despite your new medical stuff. maybe selling the truck and the infusion of funds was what you needed !!!i hope you can see those big expensive brakes through the new rims . i have a tacoma with big drilled and slotted on front and back.i get more compliments on the brakes than anything else ive done but the front warp pretty fast. mine are from rotora and hope you have better luck...but they still look cool as ****!!!! stay well and enjoy this.

Thanks! One can have issues especially if not properly broken in . . Burnished etc

I really enjoy this thread, glad your doing better and back in the shop, keep up the awesome progress !

Thanks! Now that I have figured out the newest mess of PhotoBucket it will be easier to post.

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I have never see one piece park brake shoes before, that's very interesting. I see that by doing that, it sure eliminates a lot of hardware! :thumbup:

Turns out they were for small bolt pattern. Same shoe tho. Just got back from Baer with correct mounting plates. Big Bearing vs Small Bearing. More pics as I start assy now that i seem to have all the proper parts!
 

C_F

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Silverado's have had that style park brake since '99

No kidding? Geez, I need to get out more, I guess? :bounce:

3 ounces every week of this nasty fluid collected from the passenger side PVC......imagine all this **** getting ingested in to the motor nonstop, if I didn't have a catch can

I also go through Iridium spark plugs every 20,000 miles and get 13 MPG!!!

I think that the problem was corrected by 2015ish, when they started using DIRECT and PORT injection in the 3.5L Ecoboost

Holy ****!! Yes, that would really get old having to empty that each week. So I assume when you pull the dipstick, the oil in the pan looks normal? Now I'm wondering if you have blow-by, to cause that.
 

zmotorsports

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427 Truck:

Part of dream of this truck was to run a Gear Vendors O.D. And to think i was close to parting it out a few months back thinking I would never finish it!

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Coming along nicely. You will love that Gear Vendor's unit. I used to be a dealer for them and installed a lot of them over the years in GM P30/P32 chassis and Ford F53 chassis. Also installed them in several tow rigs of guys I used to race with that they used to haul their race/show cars around.

I guess I didn't realize that you sold ECO 1. That was turning out really nice, bet it was hard to sell. I am however, looking forward to ECO 2 getting completed though.

Keep up the awesome work.:thumbup:
 

D45

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Holy ****!! Yes, that would really get old having to empty that each week. So I assume when you pull the dipstick, the oil in the pan looks normal? Now I'm wondering if you have blow-by, to cause that.


Oil level is NEVER low...........change it religiously at 6,000 miles with full synthetic

Intercooler condensation and buildup in the PVC lines (both driver side and pass side) are a norm for all 3.5Ls from 2011-2015 (and even newer)

Have you ever taken the pipes/tubes off the intercooler and looked inside? They will be coated with this mocha mess

The oil in the motor does not get contaminated or used.......its the intercooler and the change of temps in the air, coupled with the PVC lines in this truck.

Most, if not ALL Ecoboosts have this issue
 

C_F

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Oil level is NEVER low...........change it religiously at 6,000 miles with full synthetic

Intercooler condensation and buildup in the PVC lines (both driver side and pass side) are a norm for all 3.5Ls from 2011-2015 (and even newer)

Have you ever taken the pipes/tubes off the intercooler and looked inside? They will be coated with this mocha mess

The oil in the motor does not get contaminated or used.......its the intercooler and the change of temps in the air, coupled with the PVC lines in this truck.

Most, if not ALL Ecoboosts have this issue
That's nuts, you would think Ford would have fixed this issue by now.:headscrat
I haven't owned anything yet with an Ecoboost engine, so no, I haven't removed any intercooler tubes. I have a '17 Taurus, with the naturally aspirated 3.5L. If you're saying this is only an Ecoboost problem, sounds like I can probably breathe easy with my car. :)
 

lugnut71

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This thread is getting derailed for some reason , perhaps start an ecoboost discussion thread for this other stuff
 

rmalkow2

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Perhaps just simply ask the owner of the thread before we get all PC about it and start removing words. It is after all his thread and his build. I originally thought this topic could be more good information that affects engine swaps like TW is doing. Marrying old tech to new tech has all it's own issues as we've seen on these pages. TW has engineered his way around them all quite well.

So how about it TW, have you ever experienced an oil issue like described? Could it be affected by cooler placement and oil lines especially as you may have made adjustments in your 1966 engine swap project?
Do you think your thread got hi-jacked?
 

Two Door

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Perhaps just simply ask the owner of the thread before we get all PC about it and start removing words. It is after all his thread and his build. I originally thought this topic could be more good information that affects engine swaps like TW is doing. Marrying old tech to new tech has all it's own issues as we've seen on these pages. TW has engineered his way around them all quite well.

So how about it TW, have you ever experienced an oil issue like described? Could it be affected by cooler placement and oil lines especially as you may have made adjustments in your 1966 engine swap project?
Do you think your thread got hi-jacked?

The owner has actually pointedly asked why this was put into his thread, and for it to take place elsewhere.
 
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TimeWarpF100

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This thread is getting derailed for some reason , perhaps start an ecoboost discussion thread for this other stuff

True, sorry about that. If a Mod would like to remove our Ecoboost chatter, I am okay with that.

Perhaps just simply ask the owner of the thread before we get all PC about it and start removing words. It is after all his thread and his build. I originally thought this topic could be more good information that affects engine swaps like TW is doing. Marrying old tech to new tech has all it's own issues as we've seen on these pages. TW has engineered his way around them all quite well.

So how about it TW, have you ever experienced an oil issue like described? Could it be affected by cooler placement and oil lines especially as you may have made adjustments in your 1966 engine swap project?
Do you think your thread got hi-jacked?

The owner has actually pointedly asked why this was put into his thread, and for it to take place elsewhere.

All of D45's posts should be removed. To me that was a Total Troll. After his first post I realized where it was going. I did send a notice to the mods to have it removed. I replied (a not so nice reply. Left it up for 24hrs then removed it) His comments are like saying I have a diesel engine. After 20k miles the oil gets black! Now I want to troll the internet to have ford fix the oil from getting black . .

D45 had never participated or posted in this thread until the troll post . . Enough said. So in short yes it was 100% a hi-jack. Not relevant in any way.


I put over 11,000 trouble free miles on Eco1. It did have a few issues that FORD should fix tho on every Eco powered vehicle built.

1) If I put it in Drive all FOUR tires would go same direction

2) If I put it in R for race they all would go that direction. Opposite of Drive

3) If I stepped on throttle a bit too much the Rear tires would turn at a faster speed than the fronts . . Ford should find a solution for that no doubt! Must be issue with traction control as would not 100% correct the issue.

4) If I had a heavy foot the rear tires would wear faster than the fronts and could not be easily rotated. Again I should troll the internet so ford finds a fix . .
 
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TimeWarpF100

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Lots of updates: I was really pushing to try to get the Orange 427 Truck finished for my daughters wedding Mid-April.

I was informed yesterday that she does not want the 427 Truck for the "driveaway" vehicle and did not say anything so my feelings were not hurt!

But sounds like the "Color" of Eco2 would more match what she wants . . The 1956 BelAir would be a better fit per her. A Chevy as the driveaway? I would NEVER hear the end of that one . . I pretty much think that was saying I should get Eco2 done instead.

So looks like I should get BOTH trucks done. I will break trail with 427 Truck & she can be driven off in Eco2.

Any Volunteers to help? this AIN'T gonna be easy . . Still in a bit of discomfort having the Pre-Cancer growth removed from back.
 
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TimeWarpF100

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New diff for 427 Truck

With as much power as this truck will make the 28 spline rear was bound to fail. Not too exciting to have a axle break and cause dmg to body.

Nodular Case with Daytona Bearing Retainer and 3.50 gearing as old one. 4340 Chromemoly axles 31 spline. It will get detailed to look stock at a later date.

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TimeWarpF100

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427 Truck:

I had added the 3" dropped beams but major issue is with added 1973-79 Disc brakes it moved the front wheels out 1.5" per side making wheel fitment a issue. Especially having to use something to drop the tie rod the 3" to still fit thru the radius rod.

I decided to simply go back to stock '66 beam. But of course ran into a issue with spindle size on the spare original setup from Eco2 I had planned on using on 427 Truck. That meant swapping to the original F100 spindles adapted to the restored F250 I Beams and a king pin change. One of those gotta do it now projects.

These pics are a bit of "how i did it" at home using basic hand tools.

No wear but were pretty snug being in for 50+ yrs

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Started off giving the I Beam a quick hone so I would not need massive force to get the pins in. More of a do it on the bench.

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My trick for years when I need honing is to use a impact socket wrapped in proper amount of sticky back sand paper. In this case 180 grit. 1/4" drive impact works great.

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By using verying lengths of sand paper I can control the amount of material being removed. Not a problem getting it within .0005"

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I found knocking in the bushings from inside and having another bushing at opposite end I could control how straight they went in. (bronze bushings used, Nylon for pic demonstration)

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Here is bushing installed and getting very close to proper sizing. Making them align to each other without a long hone is a bit tricky.

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But the end result was fantastic!

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TimeWarpF100

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King pins done, Brakes installed! I have the calipers centered within .002"

All adapted using a stock 1966 F-100 Spindle. Custom machined hub to accept 5 x 4 1/2 bolt pattern. If I would have thought further ahead would have like to use the 1966 F250 Spindle. Much heavier duty.

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Out with the old in with the new . .

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New brake rotor in a 15" wheel

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4340 Chromemoly axles are "Cut to fit"

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All front suspension removed for the newest version. Old Skool meets new skool. (mis-spelling on purpose)

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TimeWarpF100

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I cut up some e~track to use as jacking points for doing suspension work on the 4-post hoist. The avail jacks are around 1000.00 each. This was "free" along with 30 minutes of time spent.

These are rated at 2000lb each when used in full 102" length. Now cut down to just 39 1/4" each. I have a stack of em' left over from Semi Trailer storage days . .

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TimeWarpF100

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Skipping to Eco2 Project now that it will be "The Truck" (wedding)

I have no clue if I posted about the tire/wheel combo

but because I am "cheap" I used 2017 F250 wheels (200.00 for set of 4 with lug nuts and caps! (have a second different set up in attic) A bit of machine work for proper bolt pattern on a new set of rotors to allow the late model wheel useage. If I want to go back to STOCK tire wheel I just have to swap rotors.

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TimeWarpF100

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eco2 cab is so nice it will actually be fun to paint! Only issue is the hole cut for radio.

Couple very minor dings in cab exterior. But, of course gotta get it down to metal and start over to make it all look nice. After a bit of Magic soap and steam cleaning.

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TimeWarpF100

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Underside of cab now done too! Up for a few hours unable to sleep so thought a pic update was in order. Now that it's 5 am that means time to get "busy"

Trying to get brakes and suspension complete in 427 Truck so I can get proper measurements for wheel order. Then its Eco2 Time . . .

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lugnut71

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Wow! you have been busy. I like the factory 8 lug wheels your using, there is a lot of factory truck wheels these days that look nice and I prefer over aftermarket. Just curious on 427 truck why u chose a smaller bolt pattern for wheels ?
 
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TimeWarpF100

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Wow! you have been busy. I like the factory 8 lug wheels your using, there is a lot of factory truck wheels these days that look nice and I prefer over aftermarket. Just curious on 427 truck why u chose a smaller bolt pattern for wheels ?

Only reason for bolt pattern change
Is wheel availability. Wheels I wanted not avail
With 5 x 5 1/2
 

Stuart in MN

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Looking forward to completion of the 427 truck. :)

It's a shame how so many of these trucks get a big hole cut in the dash to fit a different radio - plus, the holes are usually crooked as well. I think you can get modern radios these days that are designed to fit these trucks without the need for cutting holes..
 
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TimeWarpF100

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WOW!!!

That is a clean and rust free cab.

Nice.
Just how I like em'! Just one of my extra cabs needs a bit of floor pan work. Anything more than that and I simply pass.

Looking forward to completion of the 427 truck. :)

It's a shame how so many of these trucks get a big hole cut in the dash to fit a different radio - plus, the holes are usually crooked as well. I think you can get modern radios these days that are designed to fit these trucks without the need for cutting holes..

Eco2 is getting a stock 1966 Radio but upgraded to bluetooth so I can play direct from my phone. 427 Truck stock radio as will have exhaust note to listen to!

That cab is SSSSSOOOOOO clean. You find the best trucks to work on. Glad to see you working on projects again.

I do ok with help . .

Randy, what is your photo hosting site?
I am still using PhotoBucket. Without paying they crazy pricing. Something about how long I have had a paid account continuous since 2001. Its hard to keep up with all the changes. They are threatening to pull the plug fall of this year . . Simply not going to give them 399.00 per year ransom.

Beautiful, maybe I missed it but what media do you use for blasting?

Thanks! Black Diamond 30-60. About 8.00 per 50lbs but I can recycle as many as 8 or more times. I start out with fresh stuff if a bit more surface rust then many times recycled for just paint which is what was used on cab.
 
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TimeWarpF100

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I ordered the wheels for 427 Truck this morning! Its taken me 9 yrs to come up with $$. More I waited the higher the wheel price got.

Wheels should be done in 7 weeks or just in time for GoodGuys Scottsdale.
 

19richie66

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Wow.... I just read through most all of your thread and I must say I am very impressed. Sorry to hear about the health issues and having to get rid of Eco1 but things happen that are out of our control and you just have to roll with it. Beautiful job on all of your projects and I look forward to many more updates to come. Best wishes, Richie
 
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TimeWarpF100

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Wow.... I just read through most all of your thread and I must say I am very impressed. Sorry to hear about the health issues and having to get rid of Eco1 but things happen that are out of our control and you just have to roll with it. Beautiful job on all of your projects and I look forward to many more updates to come. Best wishes, Richie

Thanks Richie!

Slow going but keep plugging along . . .
 
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TimeWarpF100

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Rainbow Ranger has been down for the count for over 3 weeks now. Started off with a bad oil leak at back of intake manifold. Pulled intake, valve covers replaced gaskets and it never ran right again. Had a dead miss to point of cutting out. At times it would not start at all. Simple or so it seems as running a stock points system. Last tank of fuel prior to pulling intake was over 20 mpg.

Today spent a entire day on it. When I first started to drive it I had replaced the distributor, rebuilt carb and a bit of tuning with new plugs.

Ever since the intake gasket deal it had difficult time starting and when out on road it would have a intermittent miss to point it was not driveable. About 500 miles on the new distributor and it ran perfect prior to tearing it apart.

The cutting out and misfire seemed to be related to the OverDrive unit where it kills the spark for a fraction of a second when OD is in engaged. (wire from OD solenoid goes to neg side of coil)

I have been moving it around yard for past few days with no issue but if I tried to drive it would simply cut out. Seemed Ignition related as not a bog like it was running out of fuel.

This morning I attempted to start it to move it to shop and it would crank but not fire! Pushed it onto hoist. Plug wires were getting cracked and arcing so replaced them and it fired right up. Tried to drive and ran good for a block then did same thing then it quit. Removed wire from OD to coil and it started up. Tried to drive made it a block or so and started the bucking jerking again. Limped it back home and then it stalled. Would not start.

Had a spare coil, installed it ran great until I tried to drive it had surging idle and would not drive. Shut it off to check for spark & nothing! Had a new Autolite coil. Installed it had good spark, Truck started fine idled fine but when I went to drive it it fell on its face would not run under any load. While cranking in driveway it finally fired then the carb started puking fuel out of bowl vent tubes. Figured stuck or sinking float. Pulled carb off and top of carb. Found dirt in needle and seat. Had spare Holley 2v carb. Dropped it in place thinking that had to be it. Cranked but would not fire. checked and had spark at coil and at points. Checked at plug and nothing . . Inspected the NEW dist cap for about the 10th time. Looked new. POints did not look so good replaced with original Ford Points tried and it started right up. Went to drive and it did same trick again would not run under load. (usually secondary ignition)

Finally picked up another different brand Distributor cap/rotor and the terminals looked way different. Measured across terminals with snap gauge. About .030 more on cap that was on new dist vs new cap just picked up.

Installed new cap. Truck would not start. About this time I was ready to rent a backhoe!

One last look underhood and realized I did not plug coil wire into new cap.

Turned key . . . Runs well now!

Something so basic and so few things to go wrong. Its no wonder I have no hair left!

Multiple issues at same time with not much for explanation.

Wife walked by a few times teasing just plug in your Ford tester! I am pretty sure that meant it was ok to drop in a new 5.0 Coyote!
 

19richie66

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Sometimes it is the simplest things. We tend to look for the major issue rather than starting at the basics. I do it all the time. Glad you got it going.
 

johnyg

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whats that line about seeing the tree through the forest???? fresh eyes are also amazing as i have been blessed by them a time or two. that truck looks bad *** and will be well worth the aggravation !!!!
 
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TimeWarpF100

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That cab is sure going to be easy to work on given it is so clean, straight and has no rust.

Looking forward to get started on it!

Sometimes it is the simplest things. We tend to look for the major issue rather than starting at the basics. I do it all the time. Glad you got it going.

The forgot coil wire was just on after cap was replaced. Carb puking was a one time deal. Main issue was intermittent issue with a new distributor cap. First time in over 45 yrs messing with them I have ran across that.

whats that line about seeing the tree through the forest???? fresh eyes are also amazing as i have been blessed by them a time or two. that truck looks bad *** and will be well worth the aggravation !!!!

Each time I replaced or tested one part the dist cap was or was not Making contact at rotor.
 
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