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Pipe Cutter

JayL

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Manila, Philippines
Which one do you think is a better choice?

http://www.tooltopia.com/knipex-186-12.aspx

KNI18612.jpg


or

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...eId=10051&catalogId=10053&productId=100001470

ridgid.jpg


Thanks
 
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Mickey O

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Chicago, IL
The second one, the only time I've used a multiple cutter one was on cast iron sewer pipe, seems like it would be more work lining up the second one. If you got lots of money to spend, one of these:

lpm-4.jpg
 
OP
J

JayL

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The second one, the only time I've used a multiple cutter one was on cast iron sewer pipe, seems like it would be more work lining up the second one. If you got lots of money to spend, one of these:

lpm-4.jpg

I was thinking that the Ridgid would be easier to use too. I will be cutting quite a few 2 1/2" GI pipes for what I want to do now. Probably I could use the cutter to start the cuts and finish these up with a recip saw. I just want to have square cuts and do it quickly.

The Ridgid tool in the post can do only up to 2". Is there one that can can go up to 2 1/2" to 3".

I don't plan to spend more than $200 on the cutter. The tool you posted looks very accurate in cutting but surely will be expensive.

tks
 
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Mickey O

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Chicago, IL
I was thinking that the Ridgid would be easier to use too. I will be cutting quite a few 2 1/2" GI pipes for what I want to do now. Probably I could use the cutter to start the cuts and finish these up with a recip saw. I just want to have square cuts and do it quickly.

The Ridgid tool in the post can do only up to 2". Is there one that can can go up to 2 1/2" to 3".

I don't plan to spend more than $200 on the cutter. The tool you posted looks very accurate in cutting but surely will be expensive.

tks

Yeah, they are very expensive, they are split-frame lathes that can be pulled apart to go around existing pipes to cut and prep them for welding in new sections, etc. I used to work at the tool company that manufactured them, they have standard models that go up to 48" pipe (Alaskan pipe line) and we made a huge one to cut up the reactor at Shoreham into manageable pieces. Here's a pic of a medium size one be tested after a rebuild:

Scan7.jpg
 

OccupantRJ

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1/4" wall 3" pipe with either of those is going to take forever, if it will even be able to cut it!

The second picture is a 2-A cutter, which is for up to 2 inch NOMINAL pipe, which is around 2-3/8" OD (outside diameter). Tubing is measured on the OD, and pipe is a nominal ID. It does a fine job, and is no toy. Cutting schedule 40 or heavier pipe is no light job to start with, unless you are sawing it. A heavier version of the cutter can be seen hanging on the wall in the right upper corner near the clock in this picture in my old shop. The smaller one in the picture is a 2-A. I used the larger one to cut differential axle tubes, mostly.

RJ
 

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walrus

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Maine
How about this one? If this chop saw is good enough then I will be hitting two birds in one bullet as I can use this tool for other things as well ( i.e angle bars etc...)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00023S32W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

51MKV78YXKL_SS350_.jpg



Thank you very much for all your replies.

Chop saws are great, kinda messy, but will do what you want. I use mine for 4" pipe at times, rebar and plain old steel angle or channel. They make them with carbide blades also, work real well, less mess, less noise and leaves a cut you can run your finger over without fear of blood:)
 

nate379

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Palmer, AK
I was talking about the 2 cutters in the first post, not the fancy stuff you have which is obviously designed for commercial use on large pipes.... :lol_hitti

The second picture is a 2-A cutter, which is for up to 2 inch NOMINAL pipe, which is around 2-3/8" OD (outside diameter). Tubing is measured on the OD, and pipe is a nominal ID. It does a fine job, and is no toy. Cutting schedule 40 or heavier pipe is no light job to start with, unless you are sawing it. A heavier version of the cutter can be seen hanging on the wall in the right upper corner near the clock in this picture in my old shop. The smaller one in the picture is a 2-A. I used the larger one to cut differential axle tubes, mostly.

RJ
 

FNFS2000

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859
The Grip-on and Knipex are the same. There are 10" and 12" versions.

errrr. Knipex does not have anything like this, some stupid stores market Grip On(spain) Irega(spain) grip on (canada) and other stuff as Knipex tools. I'm surprised Knipex hasn't done something about this. I should open a store with a bunch of Chinese stuff and say its all Knipex.
 

speed bump

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May 28, 2008
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Butte Montana
A good question would be what do you plan on doing that you are cutting pipe? Are you plumbing or building something different? Where I everything gets cut with a torch if you can't easily get it to the saw but you maybe doing something in the shop and a band saw or chop saw is more convenient.

Out of the tools you listed up top I would take the Ridgid no questions asked.
 

jam022316

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Jul 31, 2008
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Indiana
I say go for the chop saw. Not only can you use it at other times for different projects but it should cut the pipe you are wanting to cut fairly easy.
 

bayou985

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Jul 16, 2008
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S.E. LA. SWAMPS
Jayl For cutting pipe it depends on wall thickness and outside diameter..for smallbore under 2" and less than 3/16 wall thickness You can get by with hand cutter...don't waste your money on anything less than a RIDGID hand cutter...on bigger pipe use a porta-band or chopsaw either one works good... if using a porta-band mark with a wraparound...for straight cut.. been cutting pipe like this for 40 years
 

OccupantRJ

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Eastern North Carolina
I was talking about the 2 cutters in the first post, not the fancy stuff you have which is obviously designed for commercial use on large pipes.... :lol_hitti

I was also talking about one of the cutters in the OP's post. He asked about the capability to cut up to 3 inch. The 2-a won't do it. The larger cutter I pointed out in the picture is the next step up in manual pipe cutters to cut that size. The 2-A was for visual size comparison. When you are cutting 3 inch pipe with this type of cutter, you ARE in the commercial category. And you're correct, it takes a while and a lot of grunting.
 
OP
J

JayL

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Is it better to raise the grinding disk (cool it a bit) after going through halfway on 3" pipe cut or best to just let it go all the way to finish the cut?
 
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