New Shop! Please critique my plans!

[jgiles101982]

Good afternoon GJ! I have been trying to decide how I wanted to build my new shop for a couple months now. During that time searching for answers are what let me here so I joined. While I have had many questions answered I find myself searching the threads for countless hours trying to find answers and advice so to limit the searching I have decided to post my plans, not in great detail but enough to get feedback on things I may have planned wrong or get advice for other ways.

I have spoken with Town Hall and there are no permits or restrictions on this build when it happens. Also keep in mind I'm no expert, but not a novice either as I plan to build this myself.

-Pole building style 30' x 60' x 12' with 4x6 post 8' OC. Concrete footer & backfill.
-2x8 skirt / 2x4 girt 24" OC/ double 2x10 top rail
- Scissor trusses with 6/12 & 3/12 pitch, engineered for 4' OC & ceiling (FUTURE)
-2x4 purlins 24" OC
-Wrap the entire thing in single bubble type barrier (Plans to fully insulate walls and ceiling in the future)
-26 or 29 ga painted tuff rib all over with necessary trim. (29 gauge is 600 cheaper)
-Slab is 4" to 5" 3000psi concrete w/ fiber mix / #4 rebar 24" OC on 1.5" stands / moisture barrier

I will have a few roll up doors & man doors but this is my general idea. If you notice something off or have advice please let me know! I have a lot of work to do clearing land starting Saturday for a house & this shop but when I finalize my decisions and start the build I will post in the Gallery!

Thanks

 

[matt_i]

If you are going to do #4 rebar on 24" centers I don't think there's any need for fibermesh in the concrete. I think you'll also get a smoother finish to boot.

 

[jgiles101982]

If you are going to do #4 rebar on 24" centers I don't think there's any need for fibermesh in the concrete. I think you'll also get a smoother finish to boot.

Ok thanks I'll look into that more. When I called to get the price I asked the guy about the fiber they put in concrete and he said it didn't take the place of wire or rebar and was only good for surface cracks and chipping. Since it was only 5 dollars more per yard I just told him to add it to the quote

 

[rsanter]

Not enough information
What are you going to do in the shop?
What is the orientation of the shop?
Electrical plans?

In general I recomend

Go as big as you can
Bigger electrical panel than you think
Drop down electrical and air
Incorporate an I beam so you can have a chain hoist and a trolly
Outside lighting for a wash down area or repair of big things
External electrical outlet and air at the front
Add a shipping container or extra storage room to the plan (to keep stuff out of the shop)

 

[jgiles101982]

Not enough information
What are you going to do in the shop?
What is the orientation of the shop?
Electrical plans?

In general I recomend

Go as big as you can
Bigger electrical panel than you think
Drop down electrical and air
Incorporate an I beam so you can have a chain hoist and a trolly
Outside lighting for a wash down area or repair of big things
External electrical outlet and air at the front
Add a shipping container or extra storage room to the plan (to keep stuff out of the shop)

Thanks for the recommendations! Once I am satisfied with the overall size & structure I will focus more on the interior, however most of what you mention I have plans for but for this thread was mainly looking for advice on the structure only. The overall size will be 30'x60' with 12' walls. Thanks!

 

[GTO]

All I had to read that the size is 30'x60',you get two thumbs up from me.
Good luck

 

[cj7jeep81]

Is there a reason you are going 30x60, instead of something even like 32x64? Won't need any extra posts (they'll be less than 8' centers for 30x60), and really won't cost all that much more. Going in multiples of 8 means less waste, so more square footage for the same cost (except concrete will be a bit more), and you'd need one more truss.

 

[JamesW84]

Is there a reason you are going 30x60, instead of something even like 32x64? Won't need any extra posts (they'll be less than 8' centers for 30x60), and really won't cost all that much more. Going in multiples of 8 means less waste, so more square footage for the same cost (except concrete will be a bit more), and you'd need one more truss.

That's what I decided on, also. Stick framing mine, though.

As I understand it, fibermesh is only good until it cures. Once cured, it does nothing, and sometimes makes it harder to finish (the little fibers stick up). I don't plan to do fiber mesh with my rebar. I'm no expert and I defer to anyone who knows more.

The bubble wrap only has about an R-1 insulation value. Since you will do insulation later, I would probably use house wrap air barrier instead. What type of insulation do you plan to use?

From my research, 29ga is not recommended for the roof. I may use 29 ga on the walls, but I'm gonna go 26 (possibly 24ga) on the roof.

Have you figured out how you will orient it? Will your doors be on the long end or the short end? You might consider at least one door on each end if they will be on the short ends so you don't have to move something out to get something else in/out. I'm putting a lean-to on mine to help with that also. I can park under a roof without having to open the door. Also, i can keep the trailer, backhoe, etc out of the shop, and have a place for firewood. I will probably put the air compressor out there too to keep the noise out of the shop.

 

[jgiles101982]

Is there a reason you are going 30x60, instead of something even like 32x64? Won't need any extra posts (they'll be less than 8' centers for 30x60), and really won't cost all that much more. Going in multiples of 8 means less waste, so more square footage for the same cost (except concrete will be a bit more), and you'd need one more truss.

No not really. My initial plan was smaller then I realized I could do more with my budget but with the size now I'm pushing it.

 

[jgiles101982]

That's what I decided on, also. Stick framing mine, though.

As I understand it, fibermesh is only good until it cures. Once cured, it does nothing, and sometimes makes it harder to finish (the little fibers stick up). I don't plan to do fiber mesh with my rebar. I'm no expert and I defer to anyone who knows more.

Yeah I'm going to think about this a research it a bit more.

Will you heat/cool your shop? The bubble wrap isn't a very high R-Value. You might consider house wrap, instead. What kind of insulation are you planning on?

Nah not planning on it. I've done plenty of work inside of similar shops during all times of the year and just don't see the necessity of it. We rarely get below freezing during the winter and when it does it doesn't last long. Now summers down here are pretty hot but a couple of fans circulating air have always been fine with me. I figured the bubble just because it's something rather than nothing and white faced because I am sure with all I have planned insulation will not be high on the priorities.

From my research, 29ga is not recommended for the roof. I may use 29 ga on the walls, but I'm gonna go 26 (possibly 24ga) on the roof.

From the beginning I had planned on 26 gauge. Most people around here on shops and house roofs use 29 gauge so I figured I'd look into it but after only a savings of $600 I'll probably just stick to my original plan of 26 or maybe do what you said and use 29 on the walls only.

Have you figured out how you will orient it? Will your doors be on the long end or the short end? You might consider at least one door on each end if they will be on the short ends so you don't have to move something out to get something else in/out. I'm putting a lean-to on mine to help with that also. I can mark under a roof without having to open the door. Also, i can keep the trailer, backhoe, etc out of the shop, and have a place for firewood. I will probably put the air compressor out there too to keep the noise out of the shop.

I am not 100% on door layout just yet. I do know that one gable end will not have any doors but the other will because of the location I want it.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Consider attic trusses? Won't cost much more and might be useful in the future.
(Even if you cant stand up there, it's still seems better than regular trusses to me.)

 

[jgiles101982]

Consider attic trusses? Won't cost much more and might be useful in the future.
(Even if you cant stand up there, it's still seems better than regular trusses to me.)

Yes, actually attic trusses are the only ones I have quoted so far! My reason for changing may sound crazy but here it is: One of the gable ends will basically be enclosed for a couple different rooms, meat processing, bathroom, dust collection/air compressor, things like that. I felt that 8' ceilings are plenty sufficient for those enclosed rooms and with attic trusses I would have little under 4' of space from the rooms and trusses and I just felt that space would be wasted. I got the truss company to draw me out some scissor trusses so I could utilize the enclosed rooms ceilings as a floor for a mezzanine to use for storage. I have thought about doing scissor above the rooms & then using attic trusses throughout the rest but I'm not sure yet.

 

[WIKDRacing]

What is your plan for the shop? Any plans on lifts or heavy equipment? I would go as thick on the foundation as practical and move up to 4000 psi concrete and eliminate the fibermesh, more of a hassle finishing and pulling fiber off the top when it comes through.


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[HoosierMark]

Have you considered changing the shop to 40 x 50? You have the same running feet of wall as you do with a 30x60 but you gain another 200 feet of square feet. You also gain more usable space on the second floor. Set up your floor plan before you do anything and see where the toys will be stored, where you will work on them etc. That is the key to the enjoyment of the shop. I recently built a 36 x 60 storage shed with long side open. I picked that size because I wanted to be able to store things and not have to pull things out all the time. Implements and small trailers I seldom use are stored against the wall. Trailers I use all the time are easy to access. Plan how you will use the space and the size and other parts will fall into place.

 

[jgiles101982]

What is your plan for the shop? Any plans on lifts or heavy equipment? I would go as thick on the foundation as practical and move up to 4000 psi concrete and eliminate the fibermesh, more of a hassle finishing and pulling fiber off the top when it comes through.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At absolute most I have considered a 2 post lift for changing oil/brakes and other minor vehicle work. I figured that I would at least determine where I would possibly want one and make that section of the slab a little thicker. Other than that it will be things like a boat, small utility trailer, atv, lawn mower, etc so nothing really heavy.

Have you considered changing the shop to 40 x 50? You have the same running feet of wall as you do with a 30x60 but you gain another 200 feet of square feet. You also gain more usable space on the second floor. Set up your floor plan before you do anything and see where the toys will be stored, where you will work on them etc. That is the key to the enjoyment of the shop. I recently built a 36 x 60 storage shed with long side open. I picked that size because I wanted to be able to store things and not have to pull things out all the time. Implements and small trailers I seldom use are stored against the wall. Trailers I use all the time are easy to access. Plan how you will use the space and the size and other parts will fall into place.

I haven't considered that but I surely will. I am currently trying to decide how I will use it now plus future plans. I can agree though I wouldn't want to move a bunch of things to access what I need. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[stm317]

Is there a reason you are going 30x60, instead of something even like 32x64? Won't need any extra posts (they'll be less than 8' centers for 30x60), and really won't cost all that much more. Going in multiples of 8 means less waste, so more square footage for the same cost (except concrete will be a bit more), and you'd need one more truss.

I'm going to second this. Do dimensions that are divisible by 4 or 8. It will give you the most sqft for your money. Waste is never a good thing, but it's especially true if the budget is tight. You're literally throwing money away with waste, and it will take more of your time to measure/cut/fit materials too vs just hanging full sheets. The only thing that will cost more would be concrete, and the increase would be minimal.

 

[MrSurly]

You didn't mention whether you were having your design 'engineered'.
I would HIGHLY recommend it. It might cost 5~700 but the peace of mind is priceless.
If you are, this next bit will be addressed, but if not, I would strongly suggest that you use UC4B (minimum) pressure treatment rated posts that are nominal 6x6" and not 4x6".
Where and how many big doors you are going to install can affect *everything. Wind load rating and post spacing for example. With 8' post spacing, every big door is going to require using LVLs for the header, to support the post that is taken out, unless you put the big doors on the gable end. If you are thinking of 10' wide door(s) on the eave walls, consider post spacing in your plan.
I drew up my plan and sent it to an engineer (a post frame specialist, they say) and he made some key changes to make sure that the building was strong while not being wasteful. I had planned to set the poles on top of two bags' contents of Sakrete and then backfill with poured concrete. The engineer specifically advised against this backfill idea and specified tamped soil. His concern: the added concrete as backfill served *no purpose* in adding strength and in fact, added extra vertical load on the posts.

 

[bcoke]

Hey a great beginning , you seem capable and are willing to learn.......go as big as you can afford, never having heard one say "my shop is too big" While what is down the road is down the road [some things never materialize] if you plan now it will save $$$$$$ and time later..... so first thing first SIZE and SHAPE [including doors and windows , overhangs etc] second utilities , now is the time for all water? electric,waste,communication [ web , phone tv, intercom etc] all the under slab conduit should be run .....I buried 120/220 wire in condiut to a rise in the shop floor for a future work area covered with a garbage can.......10 years later the table saw woodworking table showed up it is about 1 foot from where I would like it but livable ........other than walking around a garbage can for 10 years very easy [all the materials were cheaper then] you may want power at yor future lift site........ third [perhaps first] site work drainage so it will not flood, access, orientation to the sun , very important for light and if solar power is in the future when I built I staked it out and had a solar guy go over it he said if I rotated it 5-6 degrees I would increase solar gain by 20% and gave me the proper roof pitch for maximun gain.........Total out of pocket $15 K [with gov incentives] for a 4500 2 story house, a 2200 2 storysquare foot house, and a 36x40 shop [lotta power tools] it has been 5 years and 0$ electric bills for all.........so a very quick payback......worth a thought..... now all you need to do is win the lottery !!! I hope I did not over load you but site orientation costs nothing , burrying conduits for utilities only costs condiut[cheap]and digging ???? Than you are set with the easy ability to finish at your leisure .........good luck bobbycoke

 

[OneOfEm]

You didn't mention whether you were having your design 'engineered'.
I would HIGHLY recommend it. It might cost 5~700 but the peace of mind is priceless.

Especially in South Alabama.

I'm in NW FL, and my build is engineered for 140MPH winds. In our area, it's not a matter of "if," but "when" with the next hurricane.

The main things that an engineer might beef up would be your post anchors, the attachments between the posts and the roof structure, and truss attachments. It could be a matter of adding the right mix of hurricane ties/clips as well as a specific fastener schedule.

If you call local post-frame companies, one of them should be able to point you to an engineer.

 

[jgiles101982]

You didn't mention whether you were having your design 'engineered'.
I would HIGHLY recommend it. It might cost 5~700 but the peace of mind is priceless.
If you are, this next bit will be addressed, but if not, I would strongly suggest that you use UC4B (minimum) pressure treatment rated posts that are nominal 6x6" and not 4x6".
Where and how many big doors you are going to install can affect *everything. Wind load rating and post spacing for example. With 8' post spacing, every big door is going to require using LVLs for the header, to support the post that is taken out, unless you put the big doors on the gable end. If you are thinking of 10' wide door(s) on the eave walls, consider post spacing in your plan.
I drew up my plan and sent it to an engineer (a post frame specialist, they say) and he made some key changes to make sure that the building was strong while not being wasteful. I had planned to set the poles on top of two bags' contents of Sakrete and then backfill with poured concrete. The engineer specifically advised against this backfill idea and specified tamped soil. His concern: the added concrete as backfill served *no purpose* in adding strength and in fact, added extra vertical load on the posts.

The only thing engineered would be the trusses. I haven't looked too much into the methods of treatment just know I need pressure treated post. I was originally going to do 6x6 on 10' OC but I have read a lot about the treatment not penetrating the 6x6 enough? I'm not sure about all of that but I have looked also into laminated post. Thanks for the input, those are the things I'm looking asking about!
When I do decide on door locations no post will be removed, I'll add if I have to, posts aren't that expensive. But I do plan to have all locations drawn out to the very inch before I buy materials and start.
That is my plan as well with the post footings. Honestly most of the pole barn builders that I have heard about in my area don't backfill with concrete either so I may not, it's just one of those things you get so many different opinions on.

Thanks

 

[jgiles101982]

Especially in South Alabama.

I'm in NW FL, and my build is engineered for 140MPH winds. In our area, it's not a matter of "if," but "when" with the next hurricane.

The main things that an engineer might beef up would be your post anchors, the attachments between the posts and the roof structure, and truss attachments. It could be a matter of adding the right mix of hurricane ties/clips as well as a specific fastener schedule.

If you call local post-frame companies, one of them should be able to point you to an engineer.

We are prone to have some rough hurricane weather and tornados for sure! Had tornados within about 10 miles from us on few occasions. I'll ask around about an engineer in my area.

 

[larry_g]

I am not 100% on door layout just yet. I do know that one gable end will not have any doors but the other will because of the location I want it.

This is one of the reasons that you have to decide what the purpose of the building is, and what your going to do in there. So far you've admitted to a lift to do oil changes and store all the stuff you have. That's fine but you only need one large OH door for that and the other entrances can be smaller. There are different requirements in the building for fabricators, auto construction and repair, motorcycle shop, wood working, and I think you said meat prep. Each of these things can affect how you build the building and the layout.

I do minimal woodwork so I didn't accommodate for that . I do have a farm and needed the depth for moving in longer items like the backhoe. I have a machine shop so I divided the building to have a clean and dirty area. I ran the main electrical panel to the inside wall to make wire runs easier. I have 240 v outlets in the back of the shop and at the front door so I can weld inside or out. I put in only 2 doors because I knew the area inside was going to be fixed items and additional doors would be a waste. I also had the advantage that this is not the first shop building I've owned so each one has become better suited to what I want to do, as well as they have changed as my interests have changed. What worked perfect for me may be totally unusable to you.

So be hard on your self, admit all your failings, quirks and strengths. Think through what you really will be doing out there. Think about the costs to heat and air condition if you so desire. Is security important. Is this a show place where you and your buddies sit and drink beer, A catchall where everything lands, or a working shop where you produce work. Do you have to accommodate the wife? I did with the room up stairs. Be real here with yourself and you'll get a building that serves you, not one that you make do with.

One regret I have is the one door is to close to the gable wall. I have limited myself to what I can store along that wall and still get a vehicle in and open the door.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[MrSurly]

The only thing engineered would be the trusses. I haven't looked too much into the methods of treatment just know I need pressure treated post. I was originally going to do 6x6 on 10' OC but I have read a lot about the treatment not penetrating the 6x6 enough?

This is a really critical area. Do the research because this the foundation (literally) of everything else. "Pressure Treated" is far too general of a description. The PT lumber available at the Box store is only "barely" treated and is NOT rated for structural permanent burial. What they sell is rated (UC4A/CCA .30 or less) for "ground contact" but not up to this task. The minimal rating for this job is UC4B and yes, they cost more than the posts at Lowes. They also will NOT have untreated centers which are certain proof of inadequate treating. You'll need to do a little searching to find a supplier as UC4B posts are not Big Box stocked items. Ask the 'local barn builders' where they get their posts and if they are UC4B... If they don't know or say it doesn't matter, DON't use that builder!

I'm not sure about all of that but I have looked also into laminated post. Thanks for the input, those are the things I'm looking asking about!

When I do decide on door locations no post will be removed, I'll add if I have to, posts aren't that expensive. But I do plan to have all locations drawn out to the very inch before I buy materials and start.

What size doors are you planning?

That is my plan as well with the post footings. Honestly most of the pole barn builders that I have heard about in my area don't backfill with concrete either so I may not, it's just one of those things you get so many different opinions on. Thanks

I really think that the money I spent on the engineer was the number one, best investment I made in relation to the building.

 

[jgiles101982]

This is a really critical area. Do the research because this the foundation (literally) of everything else. "Pressure Treated" is far too general of a description. The PT lumber available at the Box store is only "barely" treated and is NOT rated for structural permanent burial. What they sell is rated (UC4A/CCA .30 or less) for "ground contact" but not up to this task. The minimal rating for this job is UC4B and yes, they cost more than the posts at Lowes. They also will NOT have untreated centers which are certain proof of inadequate treating. You'll need to do a little searching to find a supplier as UC4B posts are not Big Box stocked items. Ask the 'local barn builders' where they get their posts and if they are UC4B... If they don't know or say it doesn't matter, DON't use that builder!
What size doors are you planning?

I really think that the money I spent on the engineer was the number one, best investment I made in relation to the building.

I went and checked the ones at Home Depot and sure enough they are exactly as you say! Thanks for the info! If I wasn't able to find them local what about those things you cement into the ground and the post slip into them?

 

[jgiles101982]

This is one of the reasons that you have to decide what the purpose of the building is, and what your going to do in there. So far you've admitted to a lift to do oil changes and store all the stuff you have. That's fine but you only need one large OH door for that and the other entrances can be smaller. There are different requirements in the building for fabricators, auto construction and repair, motorcycle shop, wood working, and I think you said meat prep. Each of these things can affect how you build the building and the layout.

I do minimal woodwork so I didn't accommodate for that . I do have a farm and needed the depth for moving in longer items like the backhoe. I have a machine shop so I divided the building to have a clean and dirty area. I ran the main electrical panel to the inside wall to make wire runs easier. I have 240 v outlets in the back of the shop and at the front door so I can weld inside or out. I put in only 2 doors because I knew the area inside was going to be fixed items and additional doors would be a waste. I also had the advantage that this is not the first shop building I've owned so each one has become better suited to what I want to do, as well as they have changed as my interests have changed. What worked perfect for me may be totally unusable to you.

So be hard on your self, admit all your failings, quirks and strengths. Think through what you really will be doing out there. Think about the costs to heat and air condition if you so desire. Is security important. Is this a show place where you and your buddies sit and drink beer, A catchall where everything lands, or a working shop where you produce work. Do you have to accommodate the wife? I did with the room up stairs. Be real here with yourself and you'll get a building that serves you, not one that you make do with.

One regret I have is the one door is to close to the gable wall. I have limited myself to what I can store along that wall and still get a vehicle in and open the door.

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks for the advice! I think about and draw out plans pretty frequently here recently. I've got a few months before I start so hopefully I'll have it all figured out by them.

 

[MrSurly]

I went and checked the ones at Home Depot and sure enough they are exactly as you say! Thanks for the info! If I wasn't able to find them local

I think its likely that they ARE available locally, just not in the usual places you'd shop; it will be a specialty facility serving the contractor supply market. Look up 'Wood Treaters' or call boathouse and fishing dock builders to ask where they get their posts. Also, buy your skirt boards from the same place, also UC4B.
This site has some good info as well as links to AWPA etc Hansen

what about those things you cement into the ground and the post slip into them?

I know Plastisleeve is one brand and there's one other. There are also galvanized steel post bases available. I've not used any of those, but they look intriguing.
Edit to add:

 

[Automobilist]

Lot's of (mostly) good info here...

I'm currently in the middle of having my 36' X 60' shop built. (Multiples of 12')
Post & beam: AKA "Pole Barn" I'm having 10' sidewalls, to accommodate two lifts inside; a four post & a two post. If I only could afford a single lift, it would absolutely be a two-post. Four post for car storage. Two post for working on cars. Though I've stored a car on my previous two post for months, no problem...

Plumb in air. The MaxLine or similar is fine and easy to install. Plenty of 110V outlets. A few 220V outlets. Insulating and finishing the interior makes it vastly nicer to spend time in. A 1/2 bath is a good idea, as is an outdoor shower...

I tend to host a number of car events, clubs, tech sessions, parties, etc.
So my shop has finished, acid-stained floors. Fully finished interior, with lots of race event posters, advertising stuff, etc. Bonus points if you put up framed posters of races / events you've actually participated in. We've had "portraits" done of most of our vintage race cars, vintage sports cars, etc. A really nice touch. Even a race poster featuring one of my Triumph's...

My shop at our previous residence...

 

[heartland auto group]

i love the pole building idea. I wish i could redo my shop that way

 

[jgiles101982]

Lot's of (mostly) good info here...

I'm currently in the middle of having my 36' X 60' shop built. (Multiples of 12')
Post & beam: AKA "Pole Barn" I'm having 10' sidewalls, to accommodate two lifts inside; a four post & a two post. If I only could afford a single lift, it would absolutely be a two-post. Four post for car storage. Two post for working on cars. Though I've stored a car on my previous two post for months, no problem...

Plumb in air. The MaxLine or similar is fine and easy to install. Plenty of 110V outlets. A few 220V outlets. Insulating and finishing the interior makes it vastly nicer to spend time in. A 1/2 bath is a good idea, as is an outdoor shower...

I tend to host a number of car events, clubs, tech sessions, parties, etc.
So my shop has finished, acid-stained floors. Fully finished interior, with lots of race event posters, advertising stuff, etc. Bonus points if you put up framed posters of races / events you've actually participated in. We've had "portraits" done of most of our vintage race cars, vintage sports cars, etc. A really nice touch. Even a race poster featuring one of my Triumph's...

My shop at our previous residence...

Thanks for the ideas! Do you have a thread on here showing the shop your building now?

 

[jgiles101982]

i love the pole building idea. I wish i could redo my shop that way

They are very common here where I live. The ones I have seen seem to be built well.

 

[JamesW84]

I know Plastisleeve is one brand and there's one other. There are also galvanized steel post bases available. I've not used any of those, but they look intriguing.
Edit to add:

The other one is called perma column. I beat this idea up because I couldn't get over a post buried in the ground, which I believe would rot if not properly treated. Add in the fact that I wanted to stick frame the insides anyway to make it easier to insulate, and I decided to just stick frame the whole thing on a full footer and 6" stem wall. It ended up not being much more when I compared perma-columns (about $110-120 each) w/ posts vs full footer and all the framing.

 

[jgiles101982]

I think its likely that they ARE available locally, just not in the usual places you'd shop; it will be a specialty facility serving the contractor supply market. Look up 'Wood Treaters' or call boathouse and fishing dock builders to ask where they get their posts. Also, buy your skirt boards from the same place, also UC4B.
This site has some good info as well as links to AWPA etc Hansen
I know Plastisleeve is one brand and there's one other. There are also galvanized steel post bases available. I've not used any of those, but they look intriguing.
Edit to add:

OK I found a building supplier that said he can get me 6x6x16 treated post for burial that are CCA treated to a.60 retention. That sound good?

 

[MrSurly]

OK I found a building supplier that said he can get me 6x6x16 treated post for burial that are CCA treated to a.60 retention. That sound good?

Yes. CCA .60 is roughly equivalent to UC4B (from my reading).
As I understand it, "CCA" is outdated, related to chemicals no longer used but the various new chemicals each have their own ratings/numbers. The AWPA is a newer standard to sort of cover all types I think. There is a ton of info at this link:AWPA DATA
and a graphic that is handy at this one:
AWPA pic
The posts that I used were sourced from a specialty treater in Shreveport that supplies the highway builders and marine markets. These are "CCA .80+"

When you cut one off, it is solid green through and through.

The chart linked above

 

[MrSurly]

OK I found a building supplier that said he can get me 6x6x16 treated post.....

Note that it is common practice (and I highly recommend it) to utilize taller posts on the gable walls in order to provide lateral support to the truss/roof system. Let them run above the roof line and trim to truss height.

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[jgiles101982]

Yes. CCA .60 is roughly equivalent to UC4B (from my reading).
As I understand it, "CCA" is outdated, related to chemicals no longer used but the various new chemicals each have their own ratings/numbers. The AWPA is a newer standard to sort of cover all types I think. There is a ton of info at this link:AWPA DATA
and a graphic that is handy at this one:
AWPA pic
The posts that I used were sourced from a specialty treater in Shreveport that supplies the highway builders and marine markets. These are "CCA .80+"

When you cut one off, it is solid green through and through.

The chart linked above

Thanks. I'll check it out. Also checked with two pole barn kit companies and they use CCA .60 as well.

Note that it is common practice (and I highly recommend it) to utilize taller posts on the gable walls in order to provide lateral support to the truss/roof system. Let them run above the roof line and trim to truss height.

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