3/8 compression to 3/8 45 flare

[slackdaddy1]

I have a compressor tank, it has a check valve/unloader with a 3/8 compression fitting on the top, where a 3/8 alum tube connected.
I need to find a brass fitting that screws in where the tube connected that is 3/8 or 1/2" NPT or better yet 3/8 45 deg flare.

I know I am using the wrong key words on my searches,,
Any ideas where to find a fitting that will screw in where the tube/nut did and has NPT on the other end.

I am not comfy with compression fitting and compressed air

Thanks,
Slack

 

[BD1]

Sounds like you want a 3/8" male pipe thread ( MPT ) X 3/8 OD flare.
This is available in straight or ninety fitting. Local HVAC should have one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008...+3/8+flare&dpPl=1&dpID=41xqJcdgUwL&ref=plSrch

 

[slackdaddy1]

Compression fittings are not MPT, and what I need would have the female threads on the compression end. But thanks for trying to help

I did just 10 min ago find it :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ROOWC2Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I just have to screw a 1/2 FPT x 3/8 flare fitting onto it.

Nick

 

[BD1]

Compression fittings are not MPT, and what I need would have the female threads on the compression end. But thanks for trying to help

I did just 10 min ago find it :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ROOWC2Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I just have to screw a 1/2 FPT x 3/8 flare fitting onto it.

Nick

Not sure what you mean. You can get male pipe thread x compression Fittings.
One end is a male pipe thread and other is compression.

 

[matt_i]

If you switch from compression to flare you'd probably have to cut off the resized ferrule and put on the tube-nut. I'm not very experienced with aluminum tube to know if it will flare reliably or split due to low ductility...

A picture would help this immensely. The part you linked seems like a straight thread on one side and a NPT on the other...

I would try to replace the entire tube in soft copper if you can, double check on the pressure rating for the tube, 300psi would be about right in my mind. A double flare would be preferred.

 

[slackdaddy1]

Guys,
The 3/8" tube with a compression nut/ferrule is been removed, gone.
What I an left with is the compression "socket" fitting that the tube/furrle/nut connected to. I can not remove this, it is a combination check valve, unloader port and pump connection, the pump connection being a compression connection.

I need to convert this compression "connection" so I can connect a new flared tube.
The Adapter I found screws onto a 3/8 compression fitting, and has 1/2 MPT that a stanadred 1/2 FPT x 3/8 flare will screw on.

Slack

 

[454ragtop]

Not sure why you're worried about using a compression fitting with compressed air. Typical air compressor pressures of 200 PSI or less are actually pretty small in the grand scheme of things, and well within safe compression fitting range. That's why that check valve/unloader is made that way..........

 

[haptiq]

Not sure why you're worried about using a compression fitting with compressed air. Typical air compressor pressures of 200 PSI or less are actually pretty small in the grand scheme of things, and well within safe compression fitting range. That's why that check valve/unloader is made that way..........

+1
If it ain’t broke, fix it till it is.

 

[slackdaddy1]

"If it ain’t broke, fix it till it is."

You just described me to a "T"

Guess it is just personal experience,, I have seen many tube/ferrule compression connections pull out,, typ in a plumbing/freeze situation, but it shows me it IS the weak point in the plumbing system

 

[454ragtop]

Keep in mind water freezing generates a lot more pressure than a compressor. The same copper pipe that has no problem supplying compressed air fails and splits if water freezes in it.

 

[bigguns69]

https://www.tompkinsind.com/products/hydraulic-adapters-and-fittings/pipe-adapters/6404

The 3/8" compression thread is 9/16-18 unf straight thread. This is the same as a #6 or 3/8" SAE o-ring thread for a hydraulic fitting. You can convert from a 3/8" female o-ring to a 3/8 male pipe with an adapter from a hydraulic fitting store, see the link I provided as well.

The female o-ring side, you can stuff a o-ring in there then as you tighten it against the fitting on the compressor it will seal to the end of it, or you can use a sealant or Teflon tape without the o-ring. Clocking of the fitting could be hap-hazard so you might want to go with a straight adapter conversion to pipe then a 45 or 90 degree pipe fitting from there. This will work.....

 

[haptiq]

"If it ain’t broke, fix it till it is."

You just described me to a "T"

Guess it is just personal experience,, I have seen many tube/ferrule compression connections pull out,, typ in a plumbing/freeze situation, but it shows me it IS the weak point in the plumbing system

Thats what my dad always told me growing up, couldnt keep my hands outta anything. I in no way vouch for compression fittings in brake systems, it actually fails inspection in VA but... I worked for a shop that was repairing rusted steel line with them “for years” until I got the job and showed them Parkers website stating not for use on steel and also the inspection manual stating Inspect for and reject if compression fittings are used on brake lines. After all that I only ever saw one come back leaking and it was because someone left it loose. They do hold some pressure if used on a material that the ferrule can crush a bit.