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Cheap air hammer for a single use?

Jacobson

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Jan 11, 2014
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I have M18 Fuel stuff.
I have a weak compressor.
I need to air chisel one thing.
What is my best option?
I don't know anyone who owns this tool.
Corded?
 
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Fedwrench

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get a better compressor and a decent air hammer:D

Or go to the gym and use a bigger hammer. :wtf:

Chances are a cheap air hammer would only massage what you're beating on and fail anyway.

What are you trying to beat? Perhaps heat might be a better choice?:dunno:
 

ocloc24

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Yeah no such thing as corded, air only. IR makes entry level ones that are affordable, there's always HF. As mentioned, cheaper is weaker and may not get the job done. I have a snap on 3050 that hits hard, CP makes a monster one as well.

If we knew what the application was, could offer better advice
 

JazzBlueRT

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I have M18 Fuel stuff.
I have a weak compressor.
I need to air chisel one thing.
What is my best option?
I don't know anyone who owns this tool.
Corded?

Without a good air compressor you can do nothing.

Anything you can air chisel, you can hammer and chisel it.

What do you need the air hammer for. Would an Oscilating multi-tool with a metal saw blade work? Can you drill and punch it out?
 

JazzBlueRT

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Yeah no such thing as corded, air only. IR makes entry level ones that are affordable, there's always HF. As mentioned, cheaper is weaker and may not get the job done. I have a snap on 3050 that hits hard, CP makes a monster one as well.

If we knew what the application was, could offer better advice

How do air hammers get rated for comparison? What would make any two air hammers with the same barrel size differ other than in reliability, they all seem to have the same BPM and CFM at any given price level?
 

Finky198

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The Bore and stoke, the weight of the actual sliding hammer are all calculated together to give a number of impact force usually shown in joules or ft/lbs... different combinations offer differences in results.

A heavier hammer will usually move slower but impart more energy do to the mass.
Where as with small hammer the decrease mass allows for a fast rate or speed/cycle.
 
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bwringer

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The Ingersoll Rand air hammer found at most farm stores for about $50 is fantastic bang for the buck. Sell it on CrackList afterwards and you'll make back most of the money.

Whether your small compressor would be able to accomplish what you need, I have no idea whatsoever. Air hammers are big air hogs, but they're generally used in short bursts. You could get a good burst or two in, but then you'd have to wait for the tank to refill. If you're trying to cut sheet metal or beat on something for a while, you're gonna have a bad time.
 

Mr_B

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indispensable tool is a proper good air hammer, no manual hammering can match it and no battery tool alternative .
Advice on the IR at 50bucks not bad given you got weak air supply so a real hard hitting air hammer likely a waste anyhow .
 

crewchief888

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get a better compressor and a decent air hammer:D

Or go to the gym and use a bigger hammer. :wtf:

Chances are a cheap air hammer would only massage what you're beating on and fail anyway.

What are you trying to beat? Perhaps heat might be a better choice?:dunno:

all the above...

it would help if the OP said what he's beating on...

most "cheap" air hammers only do one thing really good,
and that is to piss off everyone around that has to listen to it...:eyecrazy:


:beer:
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
It really depends on the task.
Rotary hammer is about as close as you get with corded, not reall suited for most tasks I'd use an air hammer for.
Even a weak compressor will work for a short bursts.
 

JazzBlueRT

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The Bore and stoke, the weight of the actual sliding hammer are all calculated together to give a number of impact force usually shown in joules or ft/lbs... different combinations offer differences in results.

A heavier hammer will usually move slower but impart more energy do to the mass.
Where as with small hammer the decrease mass allows for a fast rate or speed/cycle.

Thank you.
 

Alpine4x4

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The cheap HF are garbage. We got a few and within a day all of them were broke. Pass. The $50 IR are great hammers for the money, but you might have issues with less air. Chicago Pneumatic arent that great either.
 

kctyphoon

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The cheap HF are garbage. We got a few and within a day all of them were broke. Pass. The $50 IR are great hammers for the money, but you might have issues with less air. Chicago Pneumatic arent that great either.

Might I stress the "single use" outlined in the title.. and I have a hard time believing this claim..
 
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Alpine4x4

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Might I stress the "single use" outlined in the title.. and I have a hard time believing this claim..

I wouldn't bother with them for a single use. We bought them for use in a "professional" capacity and none lasted the full day, believe it or not. We also tear up the lesser IR units, of course they last 2-3 months as opposed to a day. We're now onto the IR 122MAX units and aside from the set screws needing loctite out of the box, we're fairly happy. Theres a few internal parts that wear, but we've yet to throw one out

Single use or not, I'd pass on the HF. I'd spend the $50 on an IR unit knowing its going to make it through the job and I have it on hand for any later jobs.
 

kctyphoon

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Professional tools are for professional use.. it's like saying to buy a Honda generator to use for a week..

38 out of 59 reviews are 4 and 5 stars for a $13 air hammer.. seems good enough to last a day to me..
 
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Alpine4x4

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Professional tools are for professional use.. it's like saying to buy a Honda generator to use for a week..

38 out of 59 reviews are 4 and 5 stars for a $13 air hammer.. seems good enough to last a day to me..

Ironic after recommending a $100+ cordless impact for a simple tire rotation, especially one that only runs 300ft/lbs:dunno:

65% of reviews are 4-5 stars, hardly awe inspiring. $37 more gets you a solid unit you wont have to worry about failing during its first use nor subsequent uses.
 

kctyphoon

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Ironic after recommending a $100+ cordless impact for a simple tire rotation, especially one that only runs 300ft/lbs:dunno:

65% of reviews are 4-5 stars, hardly awe inspiring. $37 more gets you a solid unit you wont have to worry about failing during its first use nor subsequent uses.

Correct Guy.. - a $100 CORDLESS impact SET that comes with a charger and 4.0 Lithium battery by RYOBI - which is a homeowner grade line- instead of a $450 cordless Milwaukee set, (anyone here can tell you I'm a Milwaukee person through and through), or a $170 corded Milwaukee that offers the same torque spec, to someone who asked for recommendations on how to do wheel SWAPS (not tire rotations)quick and easy, twice a year, every year.. I might also mention, it's cheaper than HF's cheapest new cordless impact (Bauer) , and almost 1/3 more powerful than their cheapest corded for only $50 more.. which either way - that OP said he was going to buy a torque wrench to tighten his lugs, so 300ft pounds is MORE than sufficient for a Honda. He didnt own a dump truck.

Had THAT GUY said - I need to change a flat tire ONE TIME, I'd hardly recommend that, and neither would half the posters that suggested the same.

And for the record, the Ryobi also opens someone up to a cordless platform that includes a $25 cordless tire inflator that he'd already own a charger and battery for. Speaking of which, the battery alone that comes in that "special buy" promo kit, is $79 in hd if purchased separately. So it's almost like buying an impact and charger for another $30 wouldn't you agree???? and I think everyone on here would agree that a cheap cordless impact wrench is much more useful than an air hammer the purchaser says he only needs one use out of.

Anything else you'd like me to clear up??? I'd be happy to do so, cause I don't like to recommend people spend more money when they get no real benefit from doing so. Youre basically suggesting to someone he spend 4x what needs to on a single use tool - as an "insurance policy" on something he'll likely never use again. I mean, it's his money - he can spend it however he wants to, but the fact is he doesn't need a professional tool for one use, or a new compressor to use that tool ONE TIME.
 
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L.Cheapo

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Cheap air hammers belong in the top drawer of a woman's dresser, not a toolbox. One time use? Rent or borrow a good one. If you had your location in your profile, there may be a GJ member local to you that could help you out.
 

kctyphoon

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I'd say - pay for shipping, and I'll GIVE YOU one of mine- but the shipping would be more expensive than buying a new one that you could warranty or return when it breaks after 18 seconds of use.. lol
 

Hiball

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I have M18 Fuel stuff.
I have a weak compressor.
I need to air chisel one thing.
What is my best option?
I don't know anyone who owns this tool.
Corded?

Unless your working close quarters where swinging a hammer could be problematic, or you need the control of a Air hammer, A good sharp chisel/hammer will do wonders, throw in a chisel holder/vise grips to keep your hands out the way and you can rip thru some metal. When you say “weak compressor”? Are we talking about a 2 gallon unit that never shuts off or do you have the ability to build some pressure/volume and find yourself taking small breaks while using air tools?

As already asked, What do you find yourself needing to chisel?
 

theoldwizard1

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The Bore and stoke, the weight of the actual sliding hammer are all calculated together to give a number of impact force usually shown in joules or ft/lbs... different combinations offer differences in results.
True, but many manufacturers do not relase that spec !

A heavier hammer will usually move slower but impart more energy do to the mass.
Where as with small hammer the decrease mass allows for a fast rate or speed/cycle.

A longer barrel helps.
 

WittHay

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Curious as to what you need a one time use of a air chisel for? Had a couple of made in Taiwan ones years ago. Quality wan't too bad, they could probably hammer all day but didn't do much besides make noise

Never have owned a good Snap-on, IR or CP. Make do with good quality chisels and punches and a hammer.
 

ocloc24

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Drives me nuts when someone starts a thread to ask for advice, then never looks at thread again. Like 8 people have asked OP a question. Why bother starting a thread?
 
OP
J

Jacobson

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Removed a broken stud
Used a 3/4" ball joint separator with my M18 Fuel 3/8"
Popped it off in 1 second.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Unless your working close quarters where swinging a hammer could be problematic, or you need the control of a Air hammer, A good sharp chisel/hammer will do wonders, ...

I removed riveted in ball joints on a car once with a dull chisel and probably a claw hammer ! The biggest issue was getting my head under the fender to see what I was doing. The trick was to shave a little off the top of each rivet at a time. Once I figured that out, it actually wasn't too bad (except for the ringing in my ears). :eyecrazy:
 

theoldwizard1

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Curious as to what you need a one time use of a air chisel for? Had a couple of made in Taiwan ones years ago. Quality wan't too bad, they could probably hammer all day but didn't do much besides make noise

Never have owned a good Snap-on, IR or CP. Make do with good quality chisels and punches and a hammer.
My son had to remove some thinset from concrete. An hour or 2 by hand and he knew that was not the way to go.

We loaded up my Craftsman 2 hp compressor and hauled it from my place to his. Then I rigged a temporary 240V receptacle for it in the garage. Luckily I had extra hose. I have an old long barrel CP air hammer (actually sold under the Craftsman brand but it has CP cast into the housing) and a wide scraper blade chisel. He about wore that chisel out, but there was no thinset left anywhere !
 

Fender1325

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I own the HF air hammer and a 21(?) Gallon HF compressor. Depending on the job it does help, but it doesn't have nearly the balls as the Kobalt I use at work believe it or not. Take into consideration we have a massive compressor at work.

If you don't need bone crushing power and/or you have very poor access to hammer and chisel something manually, then buy the HF.

If you have good enough access for a manual hammer, do that.

Wear ear protection either way.
 
OP
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Jacobson

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The biggest issue was getting my head under the fender to see what I was doing.

The annoying mart of sticking your head under the fender is that middle aged eyes can't focus on close things. So, I can't see anything that is 3 inches from my nose.
 

kctyphoon

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I own the HF air hammer and a 21(?) Gallon HF compressor. Depending on the job it does help, but it doesn't have nearly the balls as the Kobalt I use at work believe it or not. Take into consideration we have a massive compressor at work.

If you don't need bone crushing power and/or you have very poor access to hammer and chisel something manually, then buy the HF.

If you have good enough access for a manual hammer, do that.

Wear ear protection either way.

The $10 model or the ultra premium $14 one? I think they use to sell another.. I have the medium barrel I used for one project and it worked fine.. seen a YouTube vid where this guy choked the chisel with a few rubber bands, and then hooked the rubber bands around the back of the gun.. this way it had a "spring" basically pulling it back after the hammer pushed it forward. Guy used it to remove heavy rust off his entire truck frame. Basically worked like a mini jackhammer and the vibration and direct impact made CHUNKS of heavy rust just fall off the frame..

Here, check this **** out.. I watched this guys vids of him cleaning up and epoxying the entire frame on his truck.
 
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