let's see your craftsman block grinders

[torqueman2002]

There's a 1/3 HP round top with stand for $75, listed on OWWM.

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=84&t=190511

 

[bigb56]

That's a good deal, stand and all. I am somewhat amazed at how cheap quality old bench grinders can be had.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Has anyone ever used these reducer bushings when installing new wheels on your grinder. I have a 7” and 8” block grinder and while I can find new 7” and 8” wheels, there aren’t too many 7” with a 1/2” arbor opening or 8” with a 5/8” arbor opening. I can find wheels with larger openings and possibly use this reducer bushing to make it fit correctly. Just wondering if anyone has used these before? Thanks!

I just use the nylon ones... The metal ones *look* nice but the reality is I don't think they will give any better performance over the nylon ones because of the imperfections in the stones that cause the runout. The bushing is just to get the stone centered, the washers clamp on from the sides and hold things in place from there and usually require shimming and such to get your wheel to run true.

Cheapest place I found for a set was this seller on eBay. These fit tight together and I'm very pleased with them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/rle-4-pcs-...SANDING-WHEELS-15-16-wide-x-1-OD/131572935891

For ~$14 shipped for 4 of them sure beats paying a LOT more for one metal set...

 

[notlob]

Nice buy in the Northern SF bay - $45 - includes C-man stand!

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/d/professional-bench-grinder-on/6494380852.html

No affiliation yada yada...

 

[EOC_Jason]

And looks like a drill-bit attachment off to the side!

Nice buy in the Northern SF bay - $45 - includes C-man stand!

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/d/professional-bench-grinder-on/6494380852.html

 

[jrobb316]

Can anyone tell me if fender washers work as wheel flanges (the discs/washers that go between the nut and wheel, and wheel and shaft)? I believe they are missing on my 1/2 commercial when I took it apart to see what size wheels I need. I believe the wheels were 7"x1". One of the wheels appears to be original but is very worn down. model 397.19440. Can't find a manual out there for this one anywhere, the pic on sears replacement parts is really bad and they're not available anyways. Turning this machine into a dedicated tungsten grinder. Thanks!

 

[EOC_Jason]

If it was a wire or buffing wheel a washer would probably be okay, but I would NOT do that for a stone wheel. The curvature of the correct washer is very important from a safety standpoint...

Any new ones you buy will be stamped, but if you are not in a huge hurry you can find machined ones on eBay for a decent price.

Another nice alternative is to use saw blade stabilizers, they are machined.

Can anyone tell me if fender washers work as wheel flanges (the discs/washers that go between the nut and wheel, and wheel and shaft)? I believe they are missing on my 1/2 commercial when I took it apart to see what size wheels I need. I believe the wheels were 7"x1". One of the wheels appears to be original but is very worn down. model 397.19440. Can't find a manual out there for this one anywhere, the pic on sears replacement parts is really bad and they're not available anyways. Turning this machine into a dedicated tungsten grinder. Thanks!

 

[jrobb316]

That's what I figured out in my research today. I'll buy the correct stuff for a stone wheel and just use the washers on a wire wheel. Turns out I have 2 of the exact same model 1/2 commercial 397.19440. The wheel missing the tool rest will be my tungsten wheel. Pics to spice up the thread. One on an original stand.

 

[ckadams00]

Hi everyone, I have a couple of grinders posted in here way back but I picked one up at a pawn shop today and it is a bit of a puzzle. Quick skim through this forum (very quick, absolutely possible I missed someone with the same) and I had no luck at Vintage Machinery either in the photo section or the manufacturer index.

I'll post photos asap - since the whole photobucket fiasco I have yet to set myself up with a photo host (I'm still bitter).

Anyway - it is a CM 397.19571. I can't remember what the last digit - '1' signifies. I have seen reference to 397.19570 and 397.19580 (1966) - so this is pre '66. Also, the 19580 models are 1/3 HP and mine is a 1/4.

What has me puzzled is: there is an indent (but not punched out) oval for the water basin and NO holed anywhere for an on/off switch. The original band in intact. I haven't plugged it in - but considering I've never seen any CM machine without an on off switch I'm puzzled.

Thoughts or ideas?

 

[eric.holmslice]

Got a great deal on my block grinder 1/2 hp. Ran great and missing one side shield and glass shields. I turned it into a buffer with the addition of 6inch extensions.


Before




After




I just wish I had a buffer when I polished the housing. My plan is to find another one to bring the polish up one level. This was all done with hand and a drill.

My first polishing project with the block grinder is this cool drill I found for $5. These grinders are awesome.




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[JZiggy]

Got a great deal on my block grinder 1/2 hp. Ran great and missing one side shield and glass shields. I turned it into a buffer with the addition of 6inch extensions.


Before




After




I just wish I had a buffer when I polished the housing. My plan is to find another one to bring the polish up one level. This was all done with hand and a drill.

My first polishing project with the block grinder is this cool drill I found for $5. These grinders are awesome.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you tell us more about these buffer extensions?

 

[eric.holmslice]

I think this is the site I bought them.

https://www.swmetal.com/shaft-extensions-drill-arbors-s/1514.htm

They are great, just need to lock tite the locking screws. Also, as a heads up the locking screws will contact the threads on the Craftsman unit. I didn't notice any issues, just don't over torque them.



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[M_George]

Can you tell us more about these buffer extensions?

I have a drill like that somewhere in the garage. I've had it since I was in my early teens. Now I might dig it up and restore it. Didn't look that good right out of the box.

 

[JZiggy]

I think this is the site I bought them.

https://www.swmetal.com/shaft-extensions-drill-arbors-s/1514.htm

They are great, just need to lock tite the locking screws. Also, as a heads up the locking screws will contact the threads on the Craftsman unit. I didn't notice any issues, just don't over torque them.



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Nice, thanks the tip!

 

[drivesitfar]

Eric: so you polished that drill with the block buffer? or did you do it by hand and the buffer is for the next project? again WELL DONE cause i saw it over on the other thread in Fabrication section you posted it on and here's the link to that thread for some of you that might like to see some cool shiny stuff:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377463

if you did shine it up with the block buffer what compound did you or will you use on the wheels?

thanks and great job on the 1/2 HP block too!!

 

[Yingpin]

Came across another one today, 1/3 HP on a homemade wood stand that is constructed well. It had both shields and looks in great shape with the quench tray.

$45






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[cheechi]

Several questions ziggy

based on how well the 1/2HP buffs, would you try it on a 1/3 model? Do you have situations where the 1/2 bogs down buffing?

Those extensions don't thread onto the existing shaft they just use set screws to grip it? any slippage or difficulty?

for your 1/2HP did you get the 5/8 or 1/2 I'm may not be over near my grinder to measure for a while.

 

[exmaxima1]

for your 1/2HP did you get the 5/8 or 1/2 I'm may not be over near my grinder to measure for a while.

Split-phase 1/2hp blocks are 1/2" shafts.

 

[oil dripper]

Picked up this 1/4 hp 397.19300 for $30 today. Date on bottom is Oct 20 1975.

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[drivesitfar]

Cheech: I think you meant to ask Eric about his block turned into a buffer. it looks like he might have right and left handed threaded extensions, but maybe he's got the ones that go on with a set screw.

a few years back a few of us were discussing how to make our Block grinders buffers and we were shopping for left and right hand threaded extensions. also a handy member that is a machinist was offering to make a pair of extensions for I think $40-60 a pair if I recall correctly.

since I own a baldor 3/4 hp buffer i don't really need to turn my block into a buffer unless i want to have my shop set up with several grinders with many many different wheels on them which i might do cause i like the trailer hitch style mounts and changing a hitch mounted grinder might even be a bit quicker than changing a wheel.

so let us know if you do make one of your blocks a buffer and let us know how you like how it works.

 

[drivesitfar]

Cheech: I think you meant to ask Eric about his block turned into a buffer. it looks like he might have right and left handed threaded extensions, but maybe he's got the ones that go on with a set screw.

a few years back a few of us were discussing how to make our Block grinders buffers and we were shopping for left and right hand threaded extensions. also a handy member that is a machinist was offering to make a pair of extensions for I think $40-60 a pair if I recall correctly.

since I own a baldor 3/4 hp buffer i don't really need to turn my block into a buffer unless i want to have my shop set up with several grinders with many many different wheels on them which i might do cause i like the trailer hitch style mounts and changing a hitch mounted grinder might even be a bit quicker than changing a wheel.

so let us know if you do make one of your blocks a buffer and let us know how you like how it works.

OilDripper: nice looking 1/4 HP and looks damn near new. I bet that little 1/4 Hp has as much power as the new Made in China 1/2 Hp grinders so nice find and welcome to the forum.

 

[eric.holmslice]

The extensions are not internally threaded which is probably why they are so cheap. Only torque the one closest to the motor tight. The one furthest from the motor should just be snug to reduce the odds of damaging the threads . I had the set screws back out a few times. The pads just stop rotating and it’s very obvious before they fully back out. Just use a little loctite if you’re worried.















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[EOC_Jason]

I can't remember what it was but I've seen where they use a small piece of metal with a V cut into it first so that it won't damage the threads, then the set screw goes in on top of that to clamp down. If you had some round stock that size and a small file you could make your own...

 

[exmaxima1]

I can't remember what it was but I've seen where they use a small piece of metal with a V cut into it first so that it won't damage the threads, then the set screw goes in on top of that to clamp down. If you had some round stock that size and a small file you could make your own...

I use brass or nylon tipped setscrews when I dont want to mar the shaft:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=1boawkl

 

[EOC_Jason]

Got this 3/4 HP with a cheapie homemade stand at an estate sale today for $45...

I'm not so sure about the date code on the bottom? Anyone want to chime in? 1962?

Any way to figure out the model number? Most of the label is completely faded away, I can't see anything from any angle...

 

[torqueman2002]

Got this 3/4 HP with a cheapie homemade stand at an estate sale today for $45...

I'm not so sure about the date code on the bottom? Anyone want to chime in? 1962?

Any way to figure out the model number? Most of the label is completely faded away, I can't see anything from any angle...

Awesome!

My guess on the date is 1962, day 29, shift B.

I don't know who supplied the labels back then, but there are a number of completely faded ones out there.

 

[Bobioz1]

I think a lot newer than 1962

 

[drivesitfar]

Bob: I was thinking 70's, but i didn't want to disagree with Doc so glad you think so too. I thought round tops would be in early 60's? or did 3/4 flat tops come earlier than the 1/2's?

 

[Bobioz1]

I think the Doc will be back shortly. He's was mesmerized by the number and not looking at the grinder.

 

[hitthewall79]

Here's mine, I can't believe how heavy this thing is for its size, I'd say it's easily in the 60+lb range

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[McBrownie]

I think a lot newer than 1962

I agree. Flat tops were introduced in the mid ‘70’s. My guess is the 229th day of 1976.

 

[torqueman2002]

I agree. Flat tops were introduced in the mid ‘70’s. My guess is the 229th day of 1976.

Yea, that makes more sense. < -- me, mesmerized.

 

[torqueman2002]

Here's mine, I can't believe how heavy this thing is for its size, I'd say it's easily in the 60+lb range

hit ... that is one stout looking grinder.

Are the bearings and motor on a one piece cast base?

Why 2 switches?

What does the machine plate look like? Can you post a better picture of it?

I've never seen a Craftsman set up like it. It is not a Block motor style grinder, I'd suggest you include it in the Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!! thread. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107092

 

[hitthewall79]

hit ... that is one stout looking grinder.

Are the bearings and motor on a one piece cast base?

Why 2 switches?

What does the machine plate look like? Can you post a better picture of it?

I've never seen a Craftsman set up like it. It is not a Block motor style grinder, I'd suggest you include it in the Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!! thread. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107092

It has 2 switched, one is an on/off switch and the others is a forward/reverse switch. From what ive learned, those bearings were extra, and not part of the original design

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[exmaxima1]

I agree. Flat tops were introduced in the mid ‘70’s. My guess is the 229th day of 1976.

I would agree with as well

 

[Parrothead]

Came across another one today, 1/3 HP on a homemade wood stand that is constructed well. It had both shields and looks in great shape with the quench tray.

$45

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I have that same model grinder. I bought it off Craigslist from a fellow GJ member. Mine wasn't $45 but I was happy with the deal.

 

[EOC_Jason]

There are a few more clues that can be used to narrow down the date.

Split phase or Cap start?
7" wheels or 8"?
1/2" arbor or 5/8"?

I'm thinking '77-'83.

No capacitor underneath so I would say split phase.
8" wheels
5/8" arbor

No extra wiring or connectors (or paper inside) so I do not think it can be rewired to run 220v like my round-top CMan Commercial.

Is it a model: 397.19350 ?? Or something else?

EDIT, I think it's a Craftsman Commercial 397.19451 according to the pictures and specs I found from a grinder below:

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=15134

I always thought the commercial were dual-voltage?

 

[EOC_Jason]

I don't know where that person's post went with the links to the catalogs... But OMG I never knew those PDFs existed, wow that brought back memories!

The more I dig the more I think it has to be the Commercial model because of the arbor & wheel size. But all those came with the cast iron base. Only thing I can figure is the base maybe got swapped out or damaged or something in the past 40 years. Who knows... But I concur with the late 70's assessment... 1977 seems most reasonable.

 

[EOC_Jason]

If only the label didn't fade away... I'll check the stone wheel tomorrow to see if there is a date on it. It looks to be original... lol...

 

[cheechi]

Thanks for the more info on the shaft extensions and the suggestion for the brass set screws. That is a great idea.