Garden Tractor plow build

[Tracs]

I have a John Deere 4 way 54" blade that I modified to work with my quick hitch. I plan on putting it back together and selling it, so I've decided to make a new blade. Used JD 54" Quick Hitch blades are impossible to find where I am. JD wants $1000 for just the blade!

I want to make it as close to factory specifications as possible. It will be going on my John Deere 332 diesel.

Here is the 4 way converted to quick hitch I've been using. It sticks out too far and the blade angle is wrong. It has worked OK for me this year, but instead of cutting it up I will put the mounting frame back on and sell it. I could probably get $500 for it here.

A friend has a extremely worn out and damaged 54" quick hitch blade lent it to me so I can copy it. It sure has seen better days!

So this is what I am starting with. 1/8" steel for the moldboard and 1/4" steel for all reinforcement brackets and mounting points.

My local metal shop always treats me right and does excellent work. My only complaint with the material they supplied is that they made the blade 1.5" too short. I didn't notice until I got home and it's not worth complaining about.

The blade is about 14" tall when standing up in position. Is that tall enough? The factory blade is about 16".

I was originally going to use a 2" angle with a 1" strip welded to the bottom back edge of the blade which would kinda mimic the factory bottom edge Z shaped reinforcement bar.

But with them making it too short I was thinking of getting a 2"x54" 1/8th thick strip and welding it butted up against the bottom edge to extend the height. Then use the 2" angle and 1" flat stock to make the "lazy" Z shape for reinforcement.

What are your thoughts on overall plow blade height? On a small blade like this, is it even a issue? I am sure I would run out of traction long before snow would ever come over the top of the blade. Am I worrying about nothing?

Could I use a 3" tall wear bar? Would I ever bend 1/4" steel? If I made the wear bar that tall there wold be nothing behind it to reinforce it.

 

[fordkid88]

Got pictures?

 

[Tracs]

Got pictures?

Are the pictures not showing up? They do for me.

 

[matt_i]

I'd splice your makeup strip on the top. Don't leave the cutting edge unsupported down at the bottom is my opinion.

Not trying to criticize but I also noted the reinforcement on the JD looks to be thicker than the 2x2x1/4 angle. Looks like they used 3/8" material. Could go up to 3x3x3/8" which is some beefy stuff.

 

[ndnchf]

I have a 42" plow on a 1970 Cub Cadet. I got tired of wearing out and replacing the steel skids that support the blade. I had an old junk Chinese floor jack laying around. I took the heavy steel casters off it and adapted them to the plow blade. Now it rolls smoothly. I just need to keep them well oiled. I also made a rubber lower edge for the blade. Its not as good as a steel edge on hard packed/icy stuff, but it works great for snow. I made it from heavy rubber belting from Tractor Supply. It saves wear and tear on the driveway.

 

[Tracs]

I'd splice your makeup strip on the top. Don't leave the cutting edge unsupported down at the bottom is my opinion.

Not trying to criticize but I also noted the reinforcement on the JD looks to be thicker than the 2x2x1/4 angle. Looks like they used 3/8" material. Could go up to 3x3x3/8" which is some beefy stuff.

I am also weary of joint right near the cutting edge. The JD reinforcement looks a lot thicker in the photo I think because it has been scraped and mushroomed over a bit. I have another John deere 54" blade and it is built slightly different.

It looks to be 1/4" but with a 1"x1/2" bar running the width of the blade.

So I will either get thicker angle or a bar like they used.

 

[Tracs]

This is what I was thinking of doing.

 

[mikester]

Too bad you didnt ask for advice before you had the steel bent and cut. Ive been using a model 54 on my JD 425 since I bought it. I honestly wish it was 6" longer and at least 4" taller. Trying to plow anything deeper than 6" has always been a pain in the **** since the plow is barely wider than the width of the tractor when its angled. It tends to fall back under the rear tires.
You might not notice it but losing 1.5" of the width would really piss me off.

 

[XJSuperman]

Depending how factory you want it to look, I would suggest a poly edge at the top if you are worried about height. You won't fill the blade in dirt or gravel, but in good snow it'll go up an over. A poly strip of 4-6" would be a nice addition to help roll the snow over and off. The poly would also be lighter than welding in more steel and could be removed for summer months.

As for the bottom, go with your angle iron/flat strip plan, but maybe find some thicker angle. There are too many of those blades that have bent edges, corners, and are warped from catching a frozen rock or a stray tree root over the years.

Not that it matters, but I am a little confused as to the reason behind this project. You have 2 blades already, and one is modified, so why not "fix" the modified one so it works better? Im not sure I can see everything on your custom mount, but it appears to me that its redundant. The frame is quik-attach to the tractor, so why does the blade need to be quik-attach to the frame? I see the hydraulics, so what am I missing that it can't simply be bolted to a flat plate that is mounted to the plow frame?

I realize this seems wordy, was I clear enough? Sorry.

Ive been using a model 54 on my JD 425 since I bought it. I honestly wish it was 6" longer and at least 4" taller. Trying to plow anything deeper than 6" has always been a pain in the **** since the plow is barely wider than the width of the tractor when its angled. It tends to fall back under the rear tires.
You might not notice it but losing 1.5" of the width would really piss me off.

I think this is common all across the garden tractor board. Our Wheelhorses do the same thing.

 

[Tracs]

Too bad you didnt ask for advice before you had the steel bent and cut. Ive been using a model 54 on my JD 425 since I bought it. I honestly wish it was 6" longer and at least 4" taller. Trying to plow anything deeper than 6" has always been a pain in the **** since the plow is barely wider than the width of the tractor when its angled. It tends to fall back under the rear tires.
You might not notice it but losing 1.5" of the width would really piss me off.

I've used the 54" blade for a frew years. I agree it could be wider for pushing snow on the street and lane but it's the perfect size for sidewalks. I think it's a suitable size for my 332 which is a bit smaller than your 425.

 

[Tracs]

Depending how factory you want it to look, I would suggest a poly edge at the top if you are worried about height. You won't fill the blade in dirt or gravel, but in good snow it'll go up an over. A poly strip of 4-6" would be a nice addition to help roll the snow over and off. The poly would also be lighter than welding in more steel and could be removed for summer months.

As for the bottom, go with your angle iron/flat strip plan, but maybe find some thicker angle. There are too many of those blades that have bent edges, corners, and are warped from catching a frozen rock or a stray tree root over the years.

Not that it matters, but I am a little confused as to the reason behind this project. You have 2 blades already, and one is modified, so why not "fix" the modified one so it works better? Im not sure I can see everything on your custom mount, but it appears to me that its redundant. The frame is quik-attach to the tractor, so why does the blade need to be quik-attach to the frame? I see the hydraulics, so what am I missing that it can't simply be bolted to a flat plate that is mounted to the plow frame?

I realize this seems wordy, was I clear enough? Sorry.


I think this is common all across the garden tractor board. Our Wheelhorses do the same thing.

I only have 1 blade. It is originally the John Deere 4 way blade for 300 series. The JD 54" quick hitch is a friend's I am copying.

I have the quick hitch attachment on my 332 that I can use the blade, snowblower, and broom on without taking off the mounting frame from the tractor. The one I modified to work originally had it's own mounting frame with it's own hydraulic cylinders. You have to take the quick hitch frame off the tractor and install the 4 way blade and it's frame.

I will put the modified one back together and be able to sell it for $500 or more. Making a new blade will only cost $200.

 

[XJSuperman]

Oh ok, I thought you said those were both yours. I'm no longer confused. Thanks. Also didn't realize you were switching implements but not frames. With the frames being quick attach, and most implements coming with a frame....you see where I'm going lol.

 

[Tracs]

Got a bit of progress done this evening. I forgot how dirty metal working makes everything.

This is the first time I used my new welder, a Lincoln 180 Easy Mig. I didn't practice with it before this project. Things are turning out to my satisfaction. Where I welded the angle iron to the 1" bottom strip looks pretty ugly but it will never be seen. For some reason a lot of spatter. Volts and wire speed were maxed out. I wanted to be sure this thing doesn't come apart. Welding with gas is a lot better than the flux core I was using before, small welding jobs would smoke me out of the garage.

Bottom reinforcement mocked up with holes for the wear bar.

Trip spring attaching point.

One side of of the mounting point for the trip bracket.

 

[James-W]

Looks really good so far. Can't wait to see it when it is all done. Take lots of pictures of the construction process, I would be interested in seeing them.

 

[Tracs]

I cut the other mounting point bracket. The first one was done with a angle grinder. This one I used a jigsaw. It took longer but wasn't as messy as the grinder.

Here are both sides welded on.

Clamping on the wear bar to mark holes so I can drill them.

Holes drilled and test fitted with a few bolts.

The blade itself is pretty much done. Now I will start on the quick hitch bracket.

I will be priming the blade with epoxy primer and then paint it yellow.

The steel seems to have a coating on it. Will I be able to clean, scuff, prime and paint it as is? Or will it need to be completely sanded/stripped down to shiny metal? I might stop in at the metal shop and ask tomorrow. It is storming right now and expected to leave us with 12" of snow. I might not be able to make it there or to work, lol.

 

[James-W]

Looking really good! Maybe you could powder coat it, although I am not sure powder coating would be a good idea for a blade like that.

 

[Tracs]

Built the mounting bracket. Again pretty much a copy of the JD piece.

Drilled the holes for the top bar peg and bottom pegs. Did a quick assembly and test fit. Things are looking good.

Before I drill holes for the locking pins, I have to decide on the final blade angle. The original blades from John Deere seem to have a forward rake to the top of the blade. This one sits more in a reclined position.

 

[BD1]

If you want to add a wing extension later ,weld some angle clips with Hole to bolt wing to.

 

[mikester]

That looks amazing !! I wish you were closer ! I'd pay you to make a 60" for my 425 ! LOL

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Man that angle and lift set up looks like **** on those stock. Looks like it sets it way out front. As to blade angle, you will find a forward lean works better at speed, laid back might be better suited for a lawnmower.

 

[Bob P1]

Nice job, I plan on fabbing up a 60" blade for my 955 70A loader. Has an ATI quick attach set up already on the front.

 

[Tracs]

Man that angle and lift set up looks like **** on those stock. Looks like it sets it way out front. As to blade angle, you will find a forward lean works better at speed, laid back might be better suited for a lawnmower.

They are a crappy looking design. I agree that it sticks out way too far. I don't know why John Deere would make it that way. You should see the snowblower or broom on it. Total length is 10'!

The newer X series tractors have a quick hitch that only sticks out 8-10". I have thought about possibly cutting this one down 4-6". But then the driveshafts for the blower and broom wouldn't work.

 

[carterbeauford]

Nice 318, I grew up on a 316.

 

[Tracs]

Very slow progress since last update.

Got a few things done.

Skid shoe brackets mostly on.

Skid shoes bent. Need to drill 10 holes per shoe still.

Bracket for the trip springs.

I won't connect the springs until everything is painted.

The factory stamped out a tab to act as a stop between the blade and mounting frame. I just welded some tabs on each side.

 

[89GLH]

I have the same blade on my 420, and another helpful piece is a squeegee for the wear edge. I put it on for snow, then pull it for dirt in the spring.

 

[Tracs]

I have the same blade on my 420, and another helpful piece is a squeegee for the wear edge. I put it on for snow, then pull it for dirt in the spring.

I like the steel bar so I can put down pressure and scrape hard pack down to the pavement in the parking lot. I have a piece of UHMW I thought about using. Not sure I ever will.

 

[Tracs]

Finally a bit more progress.

I primed everything in epoxy primer.

Hopefully I can find time this week to paint it yellow.

 

[Tracs]

I got the blade painted. Unfortunately I thought I would save time by painting the blade standing up. The face of the blade is fine, but I got a few sags in the paint on the backside. I should have laid it down and painted each side separate.

I have decided I am not going to repaint it. I'm sure after a few times using the blade it will be full of scuffs and scrapes anyways. I will just be wiser on my next painting project.

 

[Jayman17]

Nice job, it looks great

Jay

 

[Tracs]

Slowly getting there.

To install the springs I did what some others recommended. I used a length of chain with a quick coupler, stood the blade upright and pulled up on the chain. I had just enough umph to get them on.

 

[Tracs]

Got the wear bar done and on last week.

Just have to finish the skid shoes and its all done.