40x60 ideas

[Bradbilt]

I am looking to put up a building to work on my various projects(Ford LTL Semi truck, various for pickups, and just general auto maintenance).
I am thinking a 40x60x16. Poured footer and 2-3' high poured or block walls above ground.
-Spray foam insulated on walls, blow in insulation in ceiling.
-white tin inside walls and ceiling
-attic truss to give a 60x16x7 attic for storage
-(3) 12x14 garage doors on front wall
-40' partion wall(to section one bay off as a wash bay/spray booth) also insulated and 2-3' poured or block wall
-(2) 36" man doors. One to get into building, one to get into the sectioned off bay from main portion
-(4) high inoperable windows on the back wall for natural light
-(2) 15x40 lean-to's on gable ends
-(2) floor drains(6"x12'). One in spray booth(far left), one in-between other two bays
-6" concrete floor with radiant heat. 4 spots setup for lifts(10-12k)(not sure how close to the front wall I should have them)only one lift would be going in, but would like options
-slop sink with instant hot water heater on partition wall but in main portion of shop.
I would LOVE to put I-beam and trolly setup in but not exactly sure the cost of it. Or where exactly to have it
I problem will put compressor under a lean-to to keep the noise outside and Box it in.

Heat source, I have an outdoor wood stove I could tie into, BUT how much wood would I be using to heat a shop like this.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated


I would love to go bigger but this building I have already been quoted at about 100k and that is not electric

 

[jack stand]

Heat source, I have an outdoor wood stove I could tie into, BUT how much wood would I be using to heat a shop like this.

Sounds like a nice building
Have your estimate's line out the attic (floor space) costs. I find that most of them become just junk collectors, especially after going up approximately 26 stair steps to get there.
I have a very similar building with radiant heat and use about 5-6 cord a year in my wood boiler keeping it just under 60* all winter. You'll need 2" of foam under your 'crete with attention paid to perimeter stem wall/footer (vertical) insulation also. This is with a modern Gasification boiler, a typical OWB will use more, perhaps double but I do not have experience with an OWB. FWIW my boiler is made in PA close to McConnelsburg.

 

[matt_i]

Personally I'd limit the concrete wall height above the slab to about 8" in your heated portion, as the wood-framed wall can be insulated a *lot* better than the R-1 concrete. The higher concrete wall could be beneficial in a washdown area, but eventually its going to get on the steel liner.

I think the 6" concrete is overkill for the floor, I would go with less concrete and more insulation. Like 4" concrete and 4" rigid insulation.

An I beam could be sized for a load but its going to be a 40' piece unless there are support columns. And the supports would need to be designed. A gantry might be a better choice since it could be used all over the facility and could be made to a higher load capacity more cheaply.

Natural gas is probably your cheapest "set it and forget it" heat source. Wood is probably cheaper but of course requires labor.

 

[Bradbilt]

Sounds like a nice building
Have your estimate's line out the attic (floor space) costs. I find that most of them become just junk collectors, especially after going up approximately 26 stair steps to get there.
I have a very similar building with radiant heat and use about 5-6 cord a year in my wood boiler keeping it just under 60* all winter. You'll need 2" of foam under your 'crete with attention paid to perimeter stem wall/footer (vertical) insulation also. This is with a modern Gasification boiler, a typical OWB will use more, perhaps double but I do not have experience with an OWB. FWIW my boiler is made in PA close to McConnelsburg.

My biggest issue for the attic is I dont have much footprint space to work with. The 40x16' attic is adding $5000 to the cost of the building.

I was planning on the 1-2" foam board under the concrete.

After further research, yes the concrete "walls" are not very well insulated. I am thinking more of the decorative blocker the air gap.

Personally I'd limit the concrete wall height above the slab to about 8" in your heated portion, as the wood-framed wall can be insulated a *lot* better than the R-1 concrete. The higher concrete wall could be beneficial in a washdown area, but eventually its going to get on the steel liner.

I think the 6" concrete is overkill for the floor, I would go with less concrete and more insulation. Like 4" concrete and 4" rigid insulation.

An I beam could be sized for a load but its going to be a 40' piece unless there are support columns. And the supports would need to be designed. A gantry might be a better choice since it could be used all over the facility and could be made to a higher load capacity more cheaply.

Natural gas is probably your cheapest "set it and forget it" heat source. Wood is probably cheaper but of course requires labor.

After further research, yes the concrete "walls" are not very well insulated. I am thinking more of the decorative blocker the air gap.

In the wash bay I was contemplating about 8' up the plastic sheeting that carwashes have

Natural gas is out of the question. The nearest supply is 20 miles away