plywood interior walls

[777mechanic]

I'm getting ready to put plywood on my interior walls , thinking 1/2 will work but want to see what everyone else is using other than drywall . my cost by the pallet is between 15. and 18. a sheet . so are there any other products out there that you folks are using on your walls.

 

[mdog892001]

all 1/2” osb. Self note don’t let your drunk friend cut the outlet box holes


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[Bob P1]

I would go with 1/2 plywood VS OBS board. Not that much more, but would withstand the test of time better. IMO

 

[Northislander]

I am using 1/2" MDO which is fir plywood with a paper face that takes paint well. I used a router and put a small roundover on all the edges, then glued and nailed to ceilings and walls then caulked joints and painted i'm really happy with how it came out.

 

[b-boy]

I'm using 1/2" osb and I'll be painting it. I'd have prefered drywall, but to me, it doesn't make a lot of sense in a pole barn. Just the thought of having to tape a 30x40 building with 12' celings gives me the willys.

 

[Skiff Builder]

5/8" is holding everything mounted on it (so far!)

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I went with T1-11 exterior siding for the first 8 feet and metal above that. 12 years in, I think I made the right choice.

Phil

 

[6768rogues]

I used 1/2” osb and used the scraps behind the joints perpendicular to framing to keep the sheets aligned. I have another building with white barn siding inside. Both have good and bad points.

 

[chitowncamaro]

Not sure what they realy call this but its a siding deal and has some fire resistance, also took paint well. And it was about 17 a sheet.

 

[earlybirds]

I used 5/8 bcx plywood(smooth on one side , exterior rated glue) on mine. I can hang anything anywhere!

 

[PoorOwner]

The maple or birch plywood does seem to show a bit of wave at the slightest moisture at the edges sometimes. they want to give you a thinnest veneer possible. So maybe it’s better to buy plain sheathing type plywood or AC grade

 

[Toomanytools?]

The ongoing wall debate. Seems most choose OSB mostly for cost and that you can attach things most anywhere. Being careful what you hang on it, it won't hold everything.
I have my shops divided Vehicles &RV/storage/metal working, then a dedicated woodshop. In the RV section I have started OSB the walls are 16' think I might go 12' up and stop not sure then paint white. I was getting OSB at $12-16/ sheet just looked at Home Depot and it's $22 must have been a shift in the economic supply and demand I missed. Not crazy about the OSB look but once painted it disappears into the background. On one wall section I may do a corrugated wainscoting of metal to helps with sparks and such.
Looking in the wood shop I have thought of doing the lower 3 or 4 feet in OSB as most will be covered with benches and cabinets, then the upper in drywall ($12-14/sheet) ceiling height is 10.5 feet. If I do 3 foot OSB then 7.5' of DW I can minimize the joints for taping.
I like the look of Chitown Camaro panels nice job.
MDO used in ( North islander) space is a nice product but expensive. All sheet goods are expensive now it's crazy.
Just noticed why is this in Heating and Ac?

 

[Stuart in MN]

my cost by the pallet is between 15. and 18. a sheet .

According to the Home Depot website they sell 4x8x1/2 sheetrock for $7.47 per sheet, and it drops to $6.72 per sheet if you buy 34 or more. Just sayin'...

 

[got20z]

I did OSB in my metal garage. Painted it white. This was over 2 years ago. Still pretty happy with it. It is holding up well and we have about any kind of weather you can think of.

 

[lakeroadster]

I'm getting ready to put plywood on my interior walls , thinking 1/2 will work but want to see what everyone else is using other than drywall . my cost by the pallet is between 15. and 18. a sheet . so are there any other products out there that you folks are using on your walls.

Going with 1/2" should work great.

Here's what we did at our last shop...

Welcome to The Garage Journal...

First question is what will you be doing in the shop?

Any welding or hot work? If so then steel is your best choice for a wall covering.

If not then your plan of 1/2" OSB will work fine.

I prefer LP Smart Side 4' x 8' Panels. It's a tongue and groove product that looks nicer than OSB simply because it has a wood grain surface and it is a tongue & groove product so the seams all disappear. It also is pre-painted, leave it as is or paint to suit. OSB soaks up paint like a sponge.

Photo below was our previous shop. It uses LP SmartSide panels. What you see is just the panels nailed to the studs. Nothing was painted after the fact.

Good luck and again, Welcome.

 

[tonyciambrone]

For that price point I say go for it 110%.

Savings up front on OSB aren't worth it in my strong opinion.

 

[777mechanic]

thanks for the pics really helps a lot , osb doesn't look to bad painted . i really like the t1-11 siding , sheetrock is out because of florida's a swamp all year long . i love the wood floor in the one shop . i have 1200 sqft x 10 tall and its steel with only cross braces at 48'' from ground to first cross beam then 48'' more and so on. i will weld in center of shop ,but 90% in setup for woodworking only as a business

 

[atthebeach]

I used 3/8" pressure treated plywood up to the fire stops on the lower 5', and have an un-insulated open stud wall for the upper 5'. The fire stops serve as a shelf at the 5' level all the way around my shop. The plywood is attached with screws to facilitate the addition of new electrical circuits. Every thing mounted to the wall is attached at the studs. This has been a good choice in my shop.

 

[Jackfre]

I used 1/2” in my 30x34x10. 8’ sheets set vertically. 2’ sections at the top and a 1x3 horizon trim band at the seam. Walls are, 16”OC and it is all very solid. Also easy to bet into the wall to add what I forgot.

 

[rusty1]

...whatever you put up, use deckscrews or the like, then you can remove a panel if needed to do work behind like wiring, ,etc.

 

[n20junkie]

I know plywood costs a premium, but it has enough advantages to make it the choice for me.

I use 1/2 sanded BC personally.

 

[Hollywood D]

I did what lakeroadster did and used T1-11 siding. The raw plywood type not the primed kind. It wasn’t cheap though. But it was the look I wanted.

 

[CKS1955]

I did what lakeroadster did and used T1-11 siding. The raw plywood type not the primed kind. It wasn’t cheap though. But it was the look I wanted.

Same here.

Jay

 

[bobbyjean]

i used 15/32 araucoply sanded plywood from lowes....i paid $20 and then $22 a sheet for it....at the time i needed it ....7/16 osb was 19 bucks a sheet..to me it was worth a few bucks more...used it for walls and ceilings...took binsealer well.
osb is now $16 a sheet in my area...it was 10 when i did my polebarn less than a year before?? crazy price increase's

 

[kngelv]

I know plywood costs a premium, but it has enough advantages to make it the choice for me.

I use 1/2 sanded BC personally.

Fully agree.

James

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Please excuse my ignorance, but these suggestions are all for detached buildings, right? I can't use anything but sheetrock in an attached garage for fire code I thought.

 

[CKS1955]

Please excuse my ignorance, but these suggestions are all for detached buildings, right? I can't use anything but sheetrock in an attached garage for fire code I thought.

This is required only for walls that are common with living space and garage.

Jay

 

[lakeroadster]

Please excuse my ignorance, but these suggestions are all for detached buildings, right? I can't use anything but sheetrock in an attached garage for fire code I thought.

This is required only for walls that are common with living space and garage.

Jay

But there's nothing to keep you from installing the fire rated code required drywall and then putting the plywood over the top of it.

That's what we did for our attached garage.

 

[JHepler]

This is my first post so I hope it makes it
A different way of thinking.
I went with Sheetrock and covered it with white vinyl flooring. I installed pressure treated2x6’s on edge along the floor to hold the vinyl in place and as all of my cabinets, benches, etc. are on wheels they can’t hit the walls. The vinyl was the cheapest I could find and hard to work by my self so I installed it in two pieces with a 2x2 covering the seam 1/2 way up and used extra screws to hold the vinyl in place. I had the heat up as hot as possible so it wouldn’t wrinkle in the summer. The 2x2s also help protect from impact and keep anything from leaning directly against the walls. I have had solvents, injector cleaner, and even paint remover splash on the walls and it hasn’t seemed to hurt. I came up with this idea after looking into the impact resistant wall treatment used to keep the idiots from punching holes in public bathroom walls.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Thanks for the responses guys. Good to know!

 

[Northislander]

[quot

 

[reader2580]

This is required only for walls that are common with living space and garage.

Don't you also have to drywall all the way up to the roof to keep fire from spreading through the attic?

 

[sgf13]

I am interested in this thread as well. I am doing my homework on interior siding as well. The concrete for my new building is done and construction should begin very soon. I want sidingI can screw to. I like the lpsmartside in lakeroadster's photos but my search at Lowes only shows thinner lpsmartside that I doubt would be substantial enough to hang any heavier items from. Also, in my old shop I always welded outside. I was nervous about sawdust and all the other flammables that collect in a workshop. I really am committed to being able to weld in this shop, although it's multi purpose, so there's another puzzle to work.

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[lakeroadster]

Don't you also have to drywall all the way up to the roof to keep fire from spreading through the attic?

Attached Garage Fire Containment

Walls and Ceilings

The 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning garage walls and ceilings:

R309.2 Separation Required

The garage shall be separated from the residence and its attic area by not less than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the garage side. Garages beneath habitable rooms shall be separated from all habitable rooms above by not less than 5/8-inch (15.9 mm) Type X gypsum board or equivalent. Where the separation is a floor-ceiling assembly, the structure supporting the separation shall also be protected by not less than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board or equivalent. Garages located less than 3 feet (914 mm) from a dwelling unit on the same lot shall be protected with not less than 1/2–inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the interior side of exterior walls that are within this area. Openings in these walls shall be regulated by Section 309.1. This provision does not apply to garage walls that are perpendicular to the adjacent dwelling unit wall.

 

[777mechanic]

i went up to leesburg florida to pick up my 1/2 plywood and he'd ran out so i bought 5/8 cdx for 18.00 a sheet which will be nice to hang everything from on the walls .

 

[Fatboy148]

$18.00 a sheet for 5/8" CDX in today's market is real cheep. You did good!

 

[3rdgendslmech]

I studded out a corner of my barn because I built corner shelves and put R-19 in the walls. I used ⅜ plywood from HD for $19 a sheet. Figured it wasn't going to be holding any of the weight of the shelves....